• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.574-585
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• 2007

To analyze the incident wave characteristics around Haeundae beach the long-term deep water wave data computed by wave hindcast method were used and a continuous wave observation was carried out for 1 year at the 20 m of water depth in front of Haeundae beach. Wave observation data showd that the prevalent wave direction was SSW-S in spring and summer seasons while E-SE in autumn and winter. A numerical modeling shows that the waves from E-SE are refracted strongly due to the shoal developed at the south-east side of Haeundae beach. The simulation also shows inflowing nearshore current along the east coast of the beach develops strongly in autumn and winter. Radioactive isotope tracer experiment for 155 days indicated that the tracers moves to the on-shore direction in the 1st and 2nd tracking then dispersed to the E-W direction along the shore.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.340-350
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• 2020

A rapid refresh wave forecasting system has been developed using the sea wind on the Korea Local Analysis and Prediction System. We carried out a numerical experiment for wind-wave interaction as an important parameter in determining the forecasting performance. The simulation results based on the seasons of with typhoon and without typhoon has been compared with the observation of the ocean data buoy to verify the forecasting performance. In case of without typhoon, there was an underestimate of overall forecasting tendency, and it confirmed that an increase in the wind-wave interaction parameter leads to a decrease in the underestimate tendency and root mean square error (RMSE). As a result of typhoon season by applying the experiment condition with minimum RMSE on without typhoon, the forecasting error has increased in comparison with the result without typhoon season. It means that the wave model has considered the influence of the wind forcing on a relatively weak period on without typhoon, therefore, it might be that the wave model has not sufficiently reflected the nonlinear effect and the wave energy dissipation due to the strong wind forcing.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.02a
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• pp.219-219
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• 2011

순 장파복사량은 지표면으로 입사되는 하강 장파복사량(Downward Longwave Radiation, $R_{ld}$)과 지표면에서 반사되는 상승 장파복사량(Upward Longwave Radiation, $R_{lu}$)의 차이로 정의되는데 이는 에너지 수지 및 농업기상 연구의 중요한 주제 중 하나로서 다루어져 온 순복사량의 중요한 요소이다. 일반적으로 $R_{lu}$의 경우 지표면 온도와 방사율(emissivity)를 이용하여 산출되므로 정확히 추정이 가능하나, $R_{ld}$의 경우 대기 최상층에서 관측되는 방사량과 지표면 근처의 방사량을 함께 고려해야 하므로 실측이 어렵다. $R_{ld}$는 야간 복사계(pyrgeometer)를 이용하여 직접적으로 측정할 수 있지만 관측기기 자체가 구비되어있는 관측소가 적어 매우 드물게 이용된다. 또한 단파 복사 에너지 측정 기기에 비해 비용이 많이들고 종종 관측값이 큰 오차를 가지고 있기 때문에 실무에 적용하기 힘든 단점이 있다. 따라서 기상 관측소에서 얻어지는 증기압과 온도 관측치를 물리식, 경험식 등에 적용하여 산정하게 된다. 현재는 $R_{ld}$의 추정은 관측된 방사량간의 관계를 나타내는 경험식을 기반으로 지표면 근처의 대기 온도와 습도를 이용하여 산출하는 방법이 널리 사용되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 증발산 산정 알고리즘 개발의 시발점으로써 $R_{ld}$를 먼저 구하고 $R_{lu}$를 구하였다. 신뢰성 높은 방법을 이용하여 $R_{ld}$를 구하게 되면 정확도 높은 $R_N$을 구하는 데 기여할 수 있으며, 궁극적으로 보다 정확한 증발산을 산정할 수 있게 된다. $R_{ld}$는 일반적으로 clear sky 조건 하에서의 복사 에너지 플럭스($R_{ldc}$)를 구한 후 구름의 양에 따라 보정한다. 하강 장파복사량의 경우 널리 사용되는 공식 중 하나인 Brutsaert의 공식을 사용하였다. 광릉, 해남에 위치한 플럭스 타워지점에서 실측된 기온과 실제 수증기압을 입력인자로 사용하여 지점별 $R_{ldc}$를 먼저 구하고 Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer(MODIS) 영상자료를 이용하여 검증한 뒤 최종적으로 남한지역을 대상으로 순 장파복사량 지도를 작성하였다. 이를 위해 MODIS 07 대기 프로파일 산출물(Atmospheric Profile Product)중 기온 및 이슬점온도를 추출하여 산정식의 입력자료로서 사용하였다. 상승 장파복사량의 경우 MODIS 11 지표면 온도 산출물(Land Surface Temperature product)를 이용하여 산정하였다. 이는 남한 지역의 증발산량 추정 및 에너지 수지 연구를 위한 중요한 기본 자료로서 유용하게 사용될 수 있으리라 사료된다.

• Geophysics and Geophysical Exploration
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.237-242
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• 2005

A seismic refraction study in estimation of depth to the bedrock demonstrates that 1) the average velocity in the medium is about 250 m/s in the surface layer (< 4 m), 2,500 m/s in the weathered formation, and greater than 3,000 m/s in the bedrock, 2) the depth to the deepest reflector assumed to be the bedrock is about 17 m; however, according to the cores collected in a borehole in study area, the bedrock (granite) occurred at depth 25 m, 3) according to the density and velocity logging, at depth 17 m, a measurable velocity and density increase are observed, and 4) the velocity of the weathered formation is relatively high and therefore, the acquisition offsets ($70{\sim}80m$) are turned out not to be long enough to record the refracted signal from the bedrock at depth 25 m as first arrivals.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.151-158
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• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.97-104
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• 1997

A hyperbolic numerical model with multi-directional waves has been used to investigate harbor tranquility in Pohang New Harbor. Comparing numerical results with field data measured at two stations in the harbor, it was found that use of input condition of multi-directional waves is superior to the use of uni-directional waves. Calculations with unidirectional wave input give errors of about 12% at St. P2 and 26% at St. P3, while calculations with multi-directional wave input give errors of 4 % at St. P2 and. 14% at St. P3. Using the input condition of multi-directional waves, we investigate the tranquility of Pohang New Harbor with two layouts : the condition in 1994 when the downtime at the 7th pier was often reported and the condition in 1996 when the 4th disposal site was constructed. The numerical results show that the problem of downtime at the 7th pier cannot be solved by the construction of the 4th disposal site.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.295-302
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• 2007

Abnormally high waves occurring at the east coast of korea were observed at five field measurement stations and their characteristics were analyzed with the use of wind data provided by the Korean Meteorological Administration. The high waves occurred because strong Donghae twister that was developed by extratropical cyclone blew while high swell arrived at the east coast of Korea. At Sokcho, the most northern site among the five measurement stations, maximum gust speed was 63.7 m/s and significant wave height reached at its maximum of 9.69 m with the corresponding peak wave period of 12.8 s. The reason for appearance of the abnormally high waves is that high swell continued while the twister blew strongly. Moreover, the wind direction was the same as the direction of swell propagation, which maximizes the increase of wave height due to superposition of swell and wind-generated waves. On the east coast of Korea, outbreak of this type of storm waves is very probable in winter season so that it is requested to establish a countermeasure of minimizing possible damage caused by the storm waves.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-69
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• 2014

Analysis frequency spectrum through observed wave data in northeastern shore, jeju island, during winter and fall, and review wave characteristics. In order to compute maximum wave height, we calculate the ratio of significant wave height to maximum wave height using the linear regression equation. In addition, for calculating JONSWAP spectrum, we assumed ${\gamma}$ value using significant wave height and peak frequency in the observation area. Consequently, the highest frequency is below 1 m in the case of significant wave height and during the first observation, the mean of height was estimated at 0.523 m and during the scend observation, it was 0.423 m. Furthermore, in peak frequency, the highest frequency was 0.12 Hz~0.15 Hz (period is nearly 6.67s~8.33s), the results of ${\gamma}$ from using significant wave height and peak frequency is 2.72 and the significant wave height calculated by straight linear regression equation was $1.635H_s$.

• Proceedings of the Acoustical Society of Korea Conference
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• autumn
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• pp.421-424
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• 2004

한국 동해시 연안역에서 2001년 6월, 2003년 5월 및 2004년 5월 해상실험 및 실시간 모니터링 부이 시스템을 통해 수집된 해양관측(수온, 유속)자료와 SAR (Synthetic Aperture Radar)위성영상을 분석한 내부파의 물리적 특성을 정리하였다. 이를 토대로 음파전달 모델(RAM)을 통해 내부파에 의한 음파전달 영향을 파악하고, 음도파관 불변 이른(Waveguide invariant theory)을 적용하여 내부파에 의한 해양 변동성을 음향학적으로 정량화 하였다.