• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.72-80
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• 1994

A discrete spectral model of wind waves for arbitrary depth and current is presented This model incorporates wave growth. decay by opposite int bottom friction and wave-current interaction. Depth dependent factor was also added to the fully developed spectrum in order to consider finite depth effects. The physical behavior for the effect of depth and bottom friction was analyzed for an artificially-imposed wind field.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.23-31
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• 2009

The interaction of incident monochromatic waves with a bottom-mounted vertical porous circular cylinder is investigated using the framework of the three-dimensional linear potential theory. The porosity of the circular cylinder is uniform vertically but varies in the circumferential direction. By adjusting the porosities of the circular cylinder, both the wave blocking performance of a porous semi-circular breakwater and the wave responses inside a circular harbor with an entrance are applied as calculation examples. It is found that the reflected waves, wave run-up, and wave forces are significantly reduced due to wall porosity, which are positive factors for a breakwater, and the amplification factor of a circular harbor at resonant frequencies is greatly reduced by a porous sidewall.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2000.04a
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• pp.75-81
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• 2000

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develop as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. This wave-current model was applied to the Kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.128-133
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• 1990

An equation is presented to calculate wave height due to shoaling, refraction and bottom friction. The equation in an integral form is evaluated by two different methods： A numerical method and an analytical method based on approximation. Both methods are used to calculate wave height and show very good agreement between their results. As shown in the figure of wave height variation vs. relative water depth, an increase of incident angle leads to a decrease in wave height. For the case of normal incident wave, the present equation can be reduced, under some assumptions, to the existing equation of Bretschneider and Reid (1954).

• Water for future
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.259-266
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• 1986

A numerical study of the process of wave deformation, such as reflection and transmission coefficients and wave forms with bottom change was carried out by Boundary Element Method using linear elements. It is assumed that the incident wave is normal and oblique to the bottom and the wave may be described by linear theory The accuracy of the computational scheme is investigated by comparing the results of other researchers in the following several cases. (1) Simple and sloping stepped bottom geometry (2) Submerged breakater type bottom geometry (3) Trench type bottom geometry

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.249-253
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• 2003

심해로부터 해안으로 전파해오는 파랑은 해저지형 또는 구조물 등의 영향을 받아 반사, 쇄파 등과 같은 변형을 겪게 되며, 이와 같은 파랑은 연안침식 및 해안구조물의 안전과 설계에 영향을 미친다. 수중방파제(submerged breakwater)는 입사하는 파랑에너지를 대규모로 감소시켜 연안침식을 방지할 뿐만 아니라 방파제를 수중에 건설함으로써 해역환경의 개선을 가능하게 한다. 또한, Bragg반사를 이용하여 수중방파제를 건설할 경우, 연안의 불필요한 침식 및 퇴적현상을 최소화할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 입사파에 의해 발생하는 해안구조물의 손상을 사전에 방지 할 수 있다. 아울러, 항만의 정온도를 향상시키는데 효과적으로 이용할 수 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.6-10
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• 2001

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.223-233
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• 2018

The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.

• The Journal of the Petrological Society of Korea
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.157-165
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• 2010

The age unknown Ogcheon metasedimentary rocks and the Jurassic Ogcheon granite (Jocgr) intruding it are distributed in the Ogcheon area, which is located in the central part of the Ogcheon Belt, Korea, This paper newly examines the timing of Honam shearing on the basis of the microstructural researches on time-relationship between the crenulation of Ogcheon metasedimentary rocks and the contact metamorphism by the intrusion of Jocgr. The D2 crenulation phase, which is defined by the microfolding of the S1 foliation in the metasedimentary rocks, is divided into two sub-phases. The one is a sub-phase of Early crenulation (D2a) which is included within old andalusite porphyroblasts, and the other is that of Late crenulation (D2b) which warps around the old andalusite. But they show the same dextral shear sense, the axial planes parallel to each other, and a single crenulation at outcrop scale. The contact metamorphism of andalusite-sillimanite type by the Jocgr occurred during the inter-phases of D2a and D2b, and crystallized the old andalusite masking the D2a crenulation and fibrous sillimanites replacing the D2a crenulation-forming muscovites. New andalusite porphyroblasts synkinematically grew in pressure shadows around the old andalusite or in its outermost mantles during the early stage of the D2b. The D2b occurred still continuously after the growth of the andalusite ceased (= later stage of the D2b). It indicates that the D2b occurred continuously during the period when the Ogcheon granite was still hot and cool. From this study, the crenulation history of Ogcheon metasedimentary rocks and the timing of Honam shearing would be newly established and reviewed as follows. (1) Early Honam shearing; formative period of Early crenulation, (2) main magmatic period of Jurassic granitoids; growth of the old andalusite and fibrous sillimanite by the intrusion of Jocgr, (3) main cooling period of Jurassic granitoids; formative period of Late crenulation related to Late Honam shearing, growth of the new andalusite in the early stage of D2b. Thus, this study proposes that the Honam shear movement would occur two times at least before and after the intertectonic phase which corresponds to the main magmatic period of Jurassic granitoids.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.54-64
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• 1991

To accurately estimate the rate of sediment transport in shallow water bodies, it is necessary to investigate the irregular waves transformation characteristics and nearshore currents produced by random sea waves. Most of studies on numerical models for nearshore currents are based on the theory of monocromatic waves and thus, very few nearshore models take into account the effect of irregularities in the hight, period and directional spreading of incident waves. The numerical simulation model for nearshore currents used in this paper considers the effect of irregularities of incident waves, based on Individual Wave Analysis. The computational results are compared and shown in a reasionable agreement with the experimental data.