• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.599-607
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to reproduce long-term wave fields in coastal waters of Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling and discuss its applications. To validate wind data(NCEP, ECMWF, JMA-MSM), comparison of wind data was done with wave buoy data. JMA-MSM predicted wind data with high accuracy. But due to relatively longer period of ECMWF wind data as compared to that of JMA-MSM, wind data set of ECMWF(2001~2014) was used to perform wave hind-casting modelling. Results from numerical modelling were verified with the observed data of wave buoys installed by Korea Meteorological Administration(KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency(KHOA) on offshore waters. The results agree well with observations at buoy stations, especially during the event periods such as a typhoon. Consequently, the wave data reproduced by wave hind-casting modelling was used to obtain missing data in wave observation buoys. The obtained missing data indicated underestimation of maximum wave height during the event period at some points of buoys. Reasons for such underestimation may be due to larger time interval and resolution of the input wind data, water depth and grid size etc. The methodology used in present study can be used to analyze coastal erosion data in conjunction with a wave characteristic of the event period in coastal areas. Additionally, the method can be used in the coastal disaster vulnerability assessment to generate wave points of interest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.119-125
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• 2008

The aim of this study was to determine the characteristics of wave transformation in the shallow water of the Nakdong River estuary due to variations in air pressure, air temperature, wind speed, and wind direction. We analyzed the correlation between weather factors and wind waves in offshore regions near Geoje Island and the Nakdong River estuary in April and May 2007. The weather and wind wave data were obtained from the automatic ocean observation buoy near Geoje Island operated by the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). For the estuary region, the wind wave information was the result of field observations, and weather data were obtained from the Busan Meteorological Station. Field observations of water waves in April and May showed that the maximum wave height decreased by about 2.2 m. M oreover, wave height decreased significantly by about 1.3 m due to the reduction in wave energy caused by the water waves propagating from Geoje buoy to the Nakdong River estuary. We conclude that offshore or wind waves coming into the Nakdong River estuary showed considerable height variation due to the prevailing weather conditions, especially wind speed and direction. In particular, headwinds tended to decrease the wave size in inverse proportion to the wind speed.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2006.03a
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• pp.71-74
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• 2006

파랑은 선박의 안전운항에 있어서 중요한 요소이다. 지금까지의 파랑관측은 부이와 같은 현장관측에 주로 의존하고 있으나, 근년 위성에 의한 리모트센싱의 기술이 발달함에 따라, 파랑계측에 분야에도 시도되고 있다. 하지만 국내에서는 SAR(합성개구레이더)의 처리 경험 자체가 부족하여 본격적인 연구개발이 시작되지 않고 있다. 본 연구에서는 SAR를 이용한 파랑계측을 하기 위한 초기단계로, 1) SAR화상에서 파랑의 영상화 메커니즘, 2) 파랑 스펙트럼 추정 기법의 소개를 하고자 한다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.56-67
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• 1999

It is desired to use a domestically manufactured ocean data buoy for the long-term operational ocean monitoring. The ocean data buoy manufacturing technology was introduced through the research cooperation with the Qingkong University of Taiwan. The introduced ocean data buoy system was further expanded and improved for more efficient application for the marine environmental monitoring in Korea. The size of the ocean data buoy is 2.5 m in diameter, which is smaller compared to the NOAA's 3.0 m discus buoy to allow easy land transportation and ocean deployment as well. From the dynamic response test of the buoy carried out numerically, it was shown that the measurement of waves with period greater than 4 seconds is acceptable. The measurement and control system of the data buoy were improved to increase the number of measuring parameters, to reduce power consumption and to enhance better data analysis and management. Each component of the improved data buoy system was described in detail in this paper. Water quality sensors of water temperature, salinity, DO, pH and turbidity were added to the system in addition to the marine meteorological sensors of wind speed and direction, air temperature, humidity, air pressure and wave. Inmarsat satellite communication system is used for the real-time data telemetry from the buoy deployed offshore. A field performance test of the improved and domestically manufactured buoy was carried out for a month at the open sea off Pohang together with DatawelI's Wave-rider buoy to compare the wave data. The results of the test were satisfactory.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2019.11a
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• pp.153-154
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• 2019

본 연구에서는 일본 기상청(JMA)에서 제공하는 JMA-MSM (Meso-Scale Model) 바람장을 SWAN 모델에 입력자료로 적용하여 파랑전파를 모의하였다. 영역은 심해역·중간역·연안역으로 설정하였다. 산출된 모델링의 결과는 관측자료와 비교·검증하여 모델 구축에 대한 신뢰성을 확보하였다. 그리고 연안역에서 SWAN모델의 파랑스펙트럼정보를 입력조건으로 하는 SWASH모델의 영역을 구축하여 두 모델간 파랑전파양상을 비교하였다. SWAN(phase-averaged) 모델과 SWASH(phase-resolving) 모델은 지배방정식의 차이에 따라 파랑의 위상처리 방식 등의 차이가 있다. 이로 인한 연안역에서의 파랑전파양상의 차이를 비교하였다.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.274-284
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• 2003

The analysis of wave parametric characteristics in sea regions in the vicinity of Korean Peninsula have been carried out using the third generation wave model, WAVEWATCH-III (Tolman, 1999) and four observed buoy data of Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). Significant wave height increases about 2-3 hours later after the increase of wind speed. Maximum correlation coefficient between two parameters appears in Donghae buoy data, which is at off-shore region. When land breeze occurs, it can be found that the correlation coefficient decreases. Time differences between wind speeds and wave heights correspond to significant tidal periods at all of the buoy locations except for Donghae buoy. After verifying the WAVEWATCH-III model results by the comparing with observed buoy data, we have carried out numerical experiments near the Kuroshio current and East Sea areas, and then reconfirmed that when there exist an opposite strong current in the propagation direction of the waves or wind direction, wave height and length get higher and shorter, respectively and vice versa. It has been shown that these modulations of wave parameters are considerable when wind speed is week or mean current is relatively strong, and corresponding values have been represented.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.476-476
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• 2016

근래 들어 우리나라 동해안에서 이상고파라 불리는 너울성 고파가 자주 발생하여 상당한 인명 피해를 야기하는 등 사회적으로 큰 이슈가 되고 있다. 이상고파는 일반적으로 동해상에서 발달한 강한 저기압에 의해 발생한 고파가 상대적으로 주기가 긴 너울의 특성을 띄며 우리나라 연안에 도달하여 피해를 발생시키는 것으로 알려져 있으며, 연안에 해상상태가 잦아지는 상황에서 갑작스럽게 전파되어 오기 때문에 많은 인명피해가 발생하게 된다. 현재 미국 등의 해양예보 선진국들은 파랑모델을 운용하여 너울을 포함한 파랑예보를 수행하고 있으며, 해상부이 등의 다양한 파랑관측을 통해 그 성능을 향상시키고 있다. 우리나라에서도 선진 해양예보시스템을 활용하여 이상고파를 예측하고자 하는 연구의 필요성이 제기되고 있으며 정부 관련 부처를 중심으로 그에 대한 연구가 점차 진행되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 파랑모델을 활용하여 기존에 발생한 이상고파 피해사례에 대한 후측모의를 수행하고 우리나라에서 발생하는 이상고파의 발달과정을 분석하였다. 또한, 파랑모델의 후측모의 결과를 관측자료와 비교하여 모델의 성능을 검증하고 문제점을 분석하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.170-176
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• 2012

This paper analyzes the sea state and characteristics during the August 2011 passage of Typhoon Muifa based on data measured at four ocean weather/wave observation stations (buoys) located on the southwestern coast of Korea. When the typhoon arrived in the area approximately 230 km west of Mokpo at 9 PM on August 7, the decrease in air pressure led to increases in sea level of 25.64 cm at the Chilbal-do buoy, 16.43 cm at the Geomun-do buoy, and 9.60 cm at the Geoje-do buoy. The maximum wave height increased at the Geomun-do buoy about seven times faster than at the Chilbal-do buoy. The low water temperature at Chilbaldo during the typhoon passage probably reduced the wave energy. In the face of the oncoming typhoon, the southwest direction of the wind and waves may have been the result of external forces transporting seawater (energy) from the open sea toward the coast. The weather and ocean data from the Mara-do buoy were negatively correlated with those of Chilbal-do, whereas the data from Geomun-do had a positive correlation with those of Geoje-do.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.869-875
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the long-term wave characteristics and tendencies of coastal waters near Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling. Wave hind-casting modelling was performed with a wind data set from ECMWF (2001~2014), which provides data from 1979 to the present. The results of numerical modelling were verified with observed data collected using wave buoys installed by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) in offshore waters. The results agreed well with observations from buoy stations, especially during event periods such as typhoons. The quantitative RMSE value was 0.5 m, which was significant. Consequently, the results of a wave tendency analysis for 14 years (2001~2014) showed an increased appearance ratio for waves of more than 2 m in height at all regional domains. The mean appearance ratio was 0.082 % per year, which implies that coastal waves have been increasing continuously. This coastal wave tendency analysis data can be used to evaluate coastal vulnerability due to recent climate change and the design of coastal erosion prevention structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.383-396
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• 2016

In this study, wave model was conducted on the presence or absence of water level changes and currents effects in coastal waters coexisting with waves and currents, then the results were compared. The flow field applied the results of the RIAMOM model and the wave model applied the SWAN model. Among ECMWF, NCEP and JMA, wind data applied JMA data sets which agreed well with the observed data comparatively. Numerical simulation was conducted for 8 months from January to August 2016. For each case, the deviation of wave height was calculated for the high wave of more than 2.5 m for comparison with observed data. As a result, the deviation of wave height was not significant both considering water level changes and currents effects or not at wave observation stations installed in deep waters. However, a significant deviation of wave height of 5~10% was obtained depending on water level changes and currents effects at the comparison point in shallow waters.