• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.278-293
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• 2019

The joint distribution of wave height and period has been maltreated despite of its great engineering value due to the absence of any analytical model for wave period, and as a result, no consensus has been reached about the effect of nonlinearity on these joint distribution. On the other hand, there was a great deal of efforts to study the effects of non-linearity on the wave height distribution over the last decades, and big strides has been made. However, these achievements has not been extended to the joint distribution of wave height and period. In this rationale, we first express the joint distribution of wave height and period as the product of the marginal distribution of wave heights with the conditional distribution of associated periods, and proceed to derive the joint distribution of wave heights and periods utilizing the models of Longuet-Higgins (1975, 1983), and Cavanie et al. (1976) for conditional distribution of wave periods, and height distribution derived in this study. The verification was carried out using numerically simulated data based on the Wallops spectrum, and the nonlinear wave data obtained via the numerical simulation of random waves approaching toward the uniform beach of 1:15 slope. It turns out that the joint distribution based on the height distribution for finite banded nonlinear waves, and Cavanie et al.'s model (1976) is most promising.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.178-187
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• 2005

A reliability analysis model f3r studying the influence of joint distribution of wave heights and periods on wave un-up is presented in this paper. From the definition of failure mode related to wave run-up, a reliability function may be formulated which can be considered uncertainties of water level. In particular, the reliability analysis model can be directly taken into account statistical properties and distributions of wave periods by considering wave period in the reliability function to be a random variable. Also, variations of wave height distribution conditioned to mean wave periods can be taken into account correctly. By comparison of results of additional reliability analysis using extreme distributions with those resulted from joint distribution of wave height and periods, it is found that probabilities of failure evaluated by the latter is larger than those by the former. Although the freeboard of sloped-breakwater structures can be determined by extreme distribution based on the long-term measurements, it may be necessary to investigate additionally into wave run-up by using the present reliability analysis model formulated to consider joint distribution of a single storm event. In addition, it may be found that the effect of spectral bandwidth parameter on reliability index may be little, but the effect of wave height distribution conditioned to mean wave periods is straightforward. Therefore, it may be confirmed that effects of wave periods on the probability of failure of wave run-up may be taken into account through the conditional distribution of wave heights. Finally, the probabilities of failure with respect to freeboard of sloped-breakwater structures can be estimated by which the rational determination of crest level of sloped-breakwater structures may be possible.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 2004

In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.143-151
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• 1990

The sediment transport in shallow water regions has been studied in various ways and, accordingly, many formulas have been proposed. However, when these formulas are applied practically in the field, they are not sufficient to fully estimate the sediment transport rate yet. The primary reason is how to take into account the effect of irregularities of field waves : wave heights, periods and directions. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate stochastic and kinematic characteristics of waves in three dimensional random seas in order to more accurately estimate it. In particular, the asymmetrical properties of directional spectrum become significant and play an important role in various phenomena in a shallow water region. In this study, their effects of incident waves the joint distribution of wave heights, periods and directions are investigated through field measurements.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.216-221
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• 2001

In this paper, statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Pohang, Korea are examined absed on 1998-1999's wave data from directional wave buoy which is located Pohang(Janggigog). Wave data aquisition rate, monthly maximium, minimum and mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.75-82
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• 1990

A Wave transformation including wave breaking in shallow water region is a non-linear and discontinuous Phenomenon. Therefore, a so-called individual wave analysis (or a wave by wave analysis) rather than spectral approach seems to be adequate to investigate the wave transformation in such regions. In this study, a theoretical joint distribution of wave height, period and wave direction of zero-down crossing waves, which is required in the individual wave analysis in the shallow water region, is derived based on the hypothesis that sea surface is a Gaussian stochastic process and that a band-width of energy spectra is sufficiently narrow. The derived i oint distribution is found to be an effective measure to investigate characteristics of three-dimensional random wave field in shallow water through field measurements.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.108-116
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• 2001

In this paper, statistical properties of waves in the sea area of Mara-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-1999's wave data from a directional wave buoy which is located in Mara-do. Wave data aquisition rate, monthly maximium, minimum and mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.309-316
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• 2003

In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-years return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.165-173
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• 1998

Analytical solutions to predict the movement rate of submerged mound are derived using the convection coefficient and the joint distribution function of wave heights and periods. Assuming that the sediment is moved onshore due to the velocity asymmetry of Stokes' second order nonlinear wave theory, the micro-scale bedload transport equation is applied to the sediment conservation. The nonlinear convection-diffusion equation can then be obtained which governs the migration of submerged mound. The movement rate decreases exponentially with increasing the water depth, but the movement rate tends to increase as the spectral width parameter, $ u$ increases. In comparison of the analytical solution with the measured data, it is found that the analytical solution overestimates the movement rate. However, the agreement between the analytical solution and the measured data is encouraging since this over-estimation may be due to the inaccuracy of input data and the limitation of sediment transport model. In particular, the movement rates with respect to the water depth predicted by the analytical solution are in very good agreement with the estimated result using the discritization technique with the hindcast wave data.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.71-81
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• 1998

In this paper the statistical characteristics of the waves at Hong-do and Mara-do are examined. The wane scatter diagrams of H/sub s/ and T/sub z/ and H/sub 1/3/and T/sub 1/3/ at two locations are given and various statistical characteristics of the ocean waves are examined. If the sea is not narrowband, the modified Rayleigh distribution introduced by Longuet-Higgins can be used for the individual wave height distribution. However the modified Rayleigh distribution has not been widely used due to the inconvenience of determining the empirical constant. In this paper a simple method to determine the empirical constant for the modified Rayleigh distribution is proposed. Extreme waves based on the measured wave data are estimated. There is no significant difference depending on the distribution functions. However the estimations of the extreme waves from H/sub s/ and H/sub 1/3/ show considerable difference.