• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.2105-2108
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• 2007

지진해일이 발생하여 먼 거리를 전파할 때 코리올리스 힘이 지진해일의 거동에 매우 큰 영향을 준다. 또한 지진해일은 파장에 비해 파고가 작은 장파이기 때문에 먼 거리를 이동하는 지진해일의 해석에는 코리올리스 효과가 반영된 선형 천수방정식을 사용하는 것이 적절하다. 본 연구에서는 구면좌표계에서 유한차분기법을 사용하여 지진해일의 거동을 모의하였다. 대상 지진해일은 1983년 동해 중부 지진해일이다. 관측된 결과를 본 연구에서의 모의 결과와 비교하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Association of Geographic Inforamtion Studies Conference
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• 2008.06a
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• pp.461-464
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• 2008

연안에서의 태풍 해일에 의한 침수범람 지역 예측을 위하여 GIS를 통한 정밀 육도-해도 접합 및 분석을 만리포 해변을 대상으로 시범 수행하였다. 만리포 해변의 정밀 육도-해도 접합을 위하여 고해상도 지상 LIDAR 시스템의 시범 측량 자료와 국토지리정보원의 수치지형도, 국립해양조사원의 수치해도 수심자료 및 한국 주변해역의 30초격자 수심자료를 사용하였다. 또한 평균해수면 산정을 위하여 만리포에 설치된 수압식파고계 조위자료와 해변의 표척을 통한 목측 관측을 통한 조위자료를 활용하였다. 다양한 자료의 GIS 기반 육도-해도 접합 및 분석을 통한 정밀 지형도 구축 기술은 태풍 해일에 의한 침수범람 예측을 위한 정밀 격자 수치모델의 입력 자료로 활용되어 침수 범람 예측 결과의 재해도(Hazard Map) 작성이 가능하고, 나아가 침식 퇴적 등의 지속적인 해안선 변화 모니터링에 활용될 수 있다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.147-152
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• 2005

선형파 이론에 의한 파랑스펙트럼 분포에 의해서는 30m 크기의 파랑은 현실적으로 거의 발생 불가능하다고 인식되어 왔다. 그러나 최근의 위성 영상을 이용한 조사에 의해 3주간의 기간 통안 25m 이상의 거대파가 10개 이상 관측됨에 따라 실해역에서 빈번히 마주칠 수 있는 현상임이 입증되었으며 이에 따라 지금까지 이유 불명으로 치부되어 왔던 많은 해양 재난이 거대파에 의해 발생했던 것으로 추정되고 있다. 거대파의 발생원인은 파군 형성과 관련한 파고분포 특성의 변화, 전파하는 파군의 비선형 공명간섭 통이 제기되고 있으나, 그 출현의 복잡성과 자료의 부족 등으로 아직 명확하게 해명되지 못하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 실해역에서 발생하는 거대파의 특성 및 선형 및 비선형이론에 근거한 거대파 발생 기구를 고찰하고 비선형 파랑전파를 모사할 수 있는 수치모형을 개발하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.468-468
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• 2016

3차원 동수역학 모델을 이용하여 연안 순환에서 발생하는 이안류의 연직 분포를 조사하였다. 이안류 흐름은 변수심 위에서 발생하는 파의 쇄파와 모멘텀 전달에 의해 발생하는 외해방향의 흐름을 의미하는 것으로 해안의 보전, 유지 및 개발 측면에서 매우 중요한 역할을 한다. 지난 수십년동안 이안류와 관련된 현상을 해석하기 위해 많은 연구들이 수행되어 왔다. 하지만 대부분의 연구들은 수심적분된 2차원 모델을 사용하거나 위상 평균된 3차원 모델을 사용하여 이안류 흐름이 발생할 시 유속의 3차원 분포나 각 종 물리량의 시간적인 변화 등을 모의하기 어려웠다. 본 연구에서는 3차원 동수역학 모델 NHWAVE (Non-Hydrostatic WAVE model)을 이용하여 이안류의 연직분포를 조사하였다. 이안류를 발생시키기 위하여 이상적인 이안류 지형을 만들었으며 여러 지점에서 연직분포를 측정하여 수심적분된 Boussinesq 모델과 비교하여 특성을 파악하였다. 수치모의 수행결과, 두 모델 모두 이안류 현상을 잘 재현하였으나 Boussinesq 모델은 수평유속의 연직방향 변화를 잘 재현하지는 못하였다. 또한, 파고가 상대적으로 큰 경우에는 3차원 모델에서는 작은 순환류가 외해 영역에서 발생하였으나 Boussinesq 모델에서는 관측하지 못하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-69
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• 2014

Analysis frequency spectrum through observed wave data in northeastern shore, jeju island, during winter and fall, and review wave characteristics. In order to compute maximum wave height, we calculate the ratio of significant wave height to maximum wave height using the linear regression equation. In addition, for calculating JONSWAP spectrum, we assumed ${\gamma}$ value using significant wave height and peak frequency in the observation area. Consequently, the highest frequency is below 1 m in the case of significant wave height and during the first observation, the mean of height was estimated at 0.523 m and during the scend observation, it was 0.423 m. Furthermore, in peak frequency, the highest frequency was 0.12 Hz~0.15 Hz (period is nearly 6.67s~8.33s), the results of ${\gamma}$ from using significant wave height and peak frequency is 2.72 and the significant wave height calculated by straight linear regression equation was $1.635H_s$.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.147-153
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• 2013

There exist various types of the WEC (Wave Energy Converter), and among them, the point absorber is the most popularly investigated type. However, it is difficult to find examples of systematically measured data analysis for the design of the point absorber type of power buoy in the world. The study investigates the wave load acting on the point absorber type resonance power buoy wave energy extraction system proposed by Kweon et al. (2010). This study analyzes the time series spectra with respect to the three-year wave data (2002.05.01~2005.03.29) measured using the pressure type wave gage at the seaside of north breakwater of Hupo harbor located in the east coast of the Korean peninsula. From the analysis results, it could be deduced that monthly wave period and wave height variations were apparent and that monthly wave powers were unevenly distributed annually. The average wave steepness of the usual wave was 0.01, lower than that of the wind wave range of 0.02-0.04. The mode of the average wave period has the value of 5.31 sec, while mode of the wave height of the applicable period has the value of 0.29 m. The occurrence probability of the peak period is a bi-modal type, with a mode value between 4.47 sec and 6.78 sec. The design wave period can be selected from the above four values of 0.01, 5.31, 4.47, 6.78. About 95% of measured wave heights are below 1 m. Through this study, it was found that a resonance power buoy system is necessary in coastal areas with low wave energy and that the optimal design for overcoming the uneven monthly distribution of wave power is a major task in the development of a WEF (Wave Energy Farm). Finding it impossible to express the average spectrum of the usual wave in terms of the standard spectrum equation, this study proposes a new spectrum equation with three parameters, with which basic data for the prediction of the power production using wave power buoy and the fatigue analysis of the system can be given.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.404-412
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• 1994

On July 12. 1993 at 22 : 17 local time (-9h. KST). an earthquake of surface magnitude (MS) 7.6 occurred on the west coast of the Hokkaido and small of offshore island of Okushiri in the East Sea. A major tsumani was generated and within 2 to 5 minutes, extremely large tsunami waves engulfed the Okushiri coastal area and the central west roast of the Hokkaido. This tsunami caused tremendous casualities and damage. A giant tsunami runup of more than 30 m in height was recorded. The tsunami crossed the East Sea and feeled at 27 sites of the eastern Korean coast during the survey on 17-19, July, 1993. The observed tsunami runup at southern part of the eastern Korean coast were generally weaker than the 1993 Japan Sea Central Earthquake tsunami and varied from 0.8 m to 2.6 m. The Present Paper intends to understand the propagation on this tsunami with the aid of numerical computation model andd computer graphic aided video animation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.193-203
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• 1996

Long period waves were measured at two stations outside and inside Chukpyon Harbor using two pressure-type wave gauges for one week that covers storm sea period. Based on the collected data the characteristics of long-period resonant oscillations were analysed: the resonant period corresponding to the peak spectral density are slightly different from one to the component wave period with the largest amplification ratio, and the latter period is suggested as that of the first resonant mode. From the analysed field data and numerical modeling, the first resonant mode of Chukpyon Harbor region appeared to be around 12 minutes with amplification ratio of 7, whose amplitude varies 10-20 cm inside of the harbour, and also the second mode appeared to be around 6 minutes. The waves of 2-3 minute periods were resonated apparently in the harbour, which is considered to be generated from group-bounded irregular waves and non-linear wave-wave interaction etc. The linearly decreasing reflection coefficients used in the numerical modeling appeared to be an alternative in calculating reflected waves in harbor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.700-711
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• 2022

In this study, deepwater design waves were estimated for 16 wave directions and various return periods based on statistical analysis of extreme waves observed for more than 20 years at three stations (Chilbal-do, Geomun-do, Donghae). These values were compared with design waves estimated based on the omni-directional wave data. The Weibull distribution was used as the probability distribution function whose parameters were determined by the least square method. The Kolmogorov-Smirnov test was applied for the goodness of fit test. Notably, the directional design waves were smaller than the omni-directional design wave for every wave direction. The maximum 50-year wave heights for directional sectors were 7.46 m (NNE), 12.05 m (S), and 9,59 m (SSW) at Chilbal-do, Geomun-do and Donghae whereas those for uni-directional wave data were 7.91 m, 13.82 m and 10.38 m, respectively. This implied possible under-estimation of the deepwater design waves for 16 wave directions being currently used in the design of offshore and coastal structures.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.117-123
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• 2016

One of the major characteristics of the swell-like high waves, which occur in the East Sea mostly in winter with large height and long period, is its suddenness associated with the rapid development of high waves from a calm state of sea. To represent such suddenness, in this study, the term sudden high waves is introduced. To propose the criterion of sudden high waves, comparisons were made between the wave measurement data at Gangneung and Wangdolcho for eight years from 2005 and the record of marine accidents and property damage on the coast of Gangwon-do Province and Gyeongsangbuk-do Province during the same period. It was found that most of the accidents occurred when ${\Delta}(H^2L)/{\Delta}t$ was approximately greater than the top 20% or $88.6m^3/hr$, which is therefore proposed as the criterion of sudden high waves. The used variable represents the rate of increase of the wave energy in one wavelength, including not only height and period but also suddenness of high waves.