• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.485-496
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• 2020

Submerged structures such as low-crested breakwaters and artificial reefs have been commonly used for coastal protection. In this study, two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to investigate the wave transmission phenomena of permeable type submerged structures armored by Tetrapods. Different cases of the experimental conditions were included by relative crest depth, relative freeboard, relative crest width, wave steepness and so on. An empirical formula from the experimental data was proposed to predict the wave transmission coefficients over various specifications and structural designs of the permeable type submerged structure. The proposed formula successfully predicted the wave transmission coefficients. In this study, the proposed empirical formula of the wave transmission over the submerged structure was improved from the existing formula.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.497-507
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• 2020

Two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to investigate the wave transmission phenomena of rubble-mound type submerged structures armored with Tetrapods. Different experimental conditions were included by considering relative crest depth, relative freeboard, relative crest width, wave steepness, and so on. An empirical formula was proposed to predict the wave transmission coefficients over various specifications and structural designs of the partial perforated (rubble-mound) type submerged structure from the experimental results. The proposed formula successfully predicted the wave transmission coefficients. In this study, the proposed empirical formula of the wave transmission over the rubble-mound type submerged structure was improved from the existing formula.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.593-601
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• 2020

Two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to investigate the wave transmission phenomena of impermeable-type submerged structures armored by concrete blocks. Different experimental conditions were included by considering relative crest depth, relative freeboard, relative crest width, wave steepness, and so on. An empirical formula was proposed to predict the wave transmission coefficients over various specifications and structural designs of the impermeable submerged structure from the experimental results. The proposed formula successfully predicted the wave transmission coefficients. Therefore, in this study, the proposed empirical formula of the wave transmission over an impermeable submerged structure was improved from the existing formula.

• Journal of Environmental Impact Assessment
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.445-456
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• 2017

For impact assessment of inundation in coastal area due to sea level rise (SLR), model for estimating future peak water level was constructed using observed mean sea level (MSL), storm surge level (SSL) data and calculated tide level (TL) data. Based on time series analysis and quadratic polynomial model for SLR and Monte-Carlo simulation for IC, SSL and TL, 100-year return peak water level is expected to be 2.3, 2.6, 2.8m, respectively (each corresponding to year 2050, 2080, 2100). Further analysis on future potential inundation area showed U-dong, Yongho-dong, Songjeong-dong, Jaesong-dong to be at high risk.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.112-120
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• 2010

In this paper time series wave data measured continuously for 24 hours during a storm in Yura Sea Area are used to investigate statistical characteristics of nonlinear waves. The exceedance probability of wave height is compared using the Rayleigh distribution and the Edgeworth-Rayleigh (ER) distribution. Wave data which show stationary state for 10 hours contain 4600 waves approximately. The Gram-Chalier distribution fits the probability of wave elevation better than the Gaussian distribution. The Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution follows the exceedance probability of wave height in general and predicts the probability of freak waves well. The ER distribution overpredicts the exceedance probability of wave heights and the occurrence of freak waves. If wave data measured for 30 minute period which contains 250 waves are used, the ER distribution can predict the occurrence probability of freak waves well. But it overpredicts the probability of overall wave height If no freak wave occurs, the Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution agrees well with wave height distribution for the most of wave height ranges. The wave height distribution of freak waves of which height are less than 10 m shows similar tendency compared with freak waves greater than 10 m. The value of $H_{max}/H_{1/3}$ is related to the kurtosis of wave elevation. It seems that there exists threshold value of the kurtosis for the occurrence of freak waves.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.17-25
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• 1989

해양에서 바람에 의해 생성된 파도를 예측하는 모델을 제시하고 이 모델의 성질을 무한 해면에서 나타내 보이고 마지막으로 파의 이송과 깊이의 영향에 관한 결과를 유한폭의 해상에서 계산해서 비교 가능한 자료와 비교해 보았다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.240-244
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• 2003

파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절, 회절, 반사를 예측하는 수학적 모형은 크게 두 가지 유형으로 나눌 수 있는데, 첫 번째로 파형경사인 ha(k：파수. $\alpha$：진폭)를 비선형의 매개변수로 하는 Stokes 파랑식이 있고, 두 번째로 상대파고인 $\alpha$/h를 비선형의 매개변수로 하고 상대수심인 kh를 분산성의 매개변수로 하는 천수방정식(Shallow water equation)이 있다. 파랑의 변형 가운데 천수, 굴절만을 예측하고 회절, 반사를 예측하지 못하는 수학적 모형으로는 에너지 이송방정식이 있다. (중략)

• Water for future
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.39-48
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• 1993

Since major reason of disaster in coastal area is wave action, prediction of wave deformation is one of the most important problems to ocean engineers. Wave deformations are due to physical factors such as shoaling effect, reflection, diffraction, refraction, scattering and radiation etc. Recently, numerical models are widely utilized to calculate wave deformation. In this study, the mild slope equation was used in calculatin gwave deformation which considers diffraction and refraction. In order to slove the governing equation, finite element method is introduced. Even though this method has some difficulties, it is proved to predict the wave deformation accurately even in complicated boundary conditions. To verify the validity of the numerical calculation, experiments were carried out in a model harbour of rectangular shape which has mild slope bottom. The results by F.E.M. are compared with those of both Lee's method and the experiment. The results of these three methods show reasonable agreement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.462-469
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• 2009

This study suggests a general formula of non-cohesive sediment transport rates for waves and currents which is also valid for wave only or current only condition. On-offshore sediment transport rates with the second order Stokes wave in the shallow water are calculated as the pickup rate times the distance. The formula depicts reasonably that high waves move material offshore, and low waves move material onshore. Also the formula, as is the case the waves with long period tend to move material onshore, shows good results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.212-221
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• 2016

In this study, characteristics of swell-like high waves in the East Sea were analyzed using observed wave data and predicted meteorological data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). And, the wave prediction system using the data from the NOAA has been established. Furthermore, the applicability of the system has been verified by comparing the predicted results with the corresponding observed data. For some case, there were two times of wave height increase and the second increase occurred in a calm weather condition on the coast which might cause casualties. The direction of wave energy propagation was estimated from observed wave data in February, 2008. Through comparison between the direction of wave energy propagation and the meteorological data, it turns out that the second increase of waves is originated from the seas between Russia and Japan which is far from the East Sea.