• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.128-133
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• 1990

An equation is presented to calculate wave height due to shoaling, refraction and bottom friction. The equation in an integral form is evaluated by two different methods： A numerical method and an analytical method based on approximation. Both methods are used to calculate wave height and show very good agreement between their results. As shown in the figure of wave height variation vs. relative water depth, an increase of incident angle leads to a decrease in wave height. For the case of normal incident wave, the present equation can be reduced, under some assumptions, to the existing equation of Bretschneider and Reid (1954).

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.277-288
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• 2004

In this study, state of sea surface were analyzed comparatively for cases of low atmospheric pressure, which occurred in the middle area of China and moved eastward to the Korean Peninsula across the Yellow sea during April 9-12, 1999, and typhoons 'NEIL' May 1999 and 'OLGA' July 1999, which moved northward along the west coast of the Korean Peninsula. In cases of low pressure, wind speeds and phases were respectively stronger and faster in the center area than in the surrounding areas. The wave heights seem to a somewhat differing tendency from that of the wind speeds due to the influences of geometry. On the other hand, wave heights were lower under typhoon weather than under low pressures, except the instance of wave height over 5 m on Chilbal when typhoon Olga pass northward from the southern area. Storm surges also showed larger amplitudes under low pressures than under typhoons. The results suggest that wave sand storm surges may be larger for a slow passing synoptic low pressures than for a fast passing local typhoon.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.45 no.12
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• pp.1275-1292
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• 2012

This study investigates the characteristics of stem waves along a vertical structure under overtopping conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave basin. The uni-directional random waves with Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu frequency spectrum as incident waves were used. This study is focused on the reduction of wave height due to the variation of relative freeboard height (R) and the results for wave overtopping conditions are compared with those for non-overtopping conditions. Though the relative wave height along a vertical structure decreases with the decrease of relative freeboard, the variation of stem width is not significant. For the relative freeboard is greater than 1, the reduction effect of stem wave height by overtopping can be ignored in this experiments. The reduction effect of wave height along the structure for R =0.5 is about 10% comparing with R =1.5.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.189-196
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• 1999

In order to verify a numerical model for the calculation of wave motion around an offshore barrier in shallow water, laboratory physical experiments are necessary. In this study, sample experiments are carried out on the wave and wave induced current fields due to a sloping bottom topography and on that due to an isolated structure from the coastline. The water body is divided into 4 levels, in which the current tracking floaters are deployed to measure the wave induced currents. Data measurement was continued using the limited wave gauges and current tracking floaters including a video camera from the top. The wave heights for the preselected surface and time-averaged velocity distributions at each level were measured in detail. The distribution of wave and current fields was analyzed precisely combining the whole measured laboratory data. Moreover, comprehensive analyses were carried out on non-linearity of wave transformation in terms of skewness and atiltness.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.329-335
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• 2007

The eye measurement to observe the sea surface condition and estimate the wave height has been used in the open sea or the ship. The experts in the eye estimation can measure the wave height very accurately. The Beaufort wind scale is most widely used as a standard index of the eye measurement. However, more definite reference data such as the representative images by each wave heights must be necessary because the appearances and explanations in the Beaufort wind scale are not enough to understand the sea surface condition far the researcher and the public. The modern field data acquisition technique has been developed to measure wave heights, ocean weather data and even images of the sea surface in real-time. In this study, the wireless field image transmitting system for wave heights and images is installed in the real-time ocean measurement system of Chodo light tower near Sokcho city in South Korea. The wave heights and surface images acquired from the real time system in the field are compared with explanations of the Beaufort wind scale. The wave heights and images measured with the precision ultrasonic wave sensor and the scientific sea surface image transmitting system should be helpful to obtain more precise and definite information than the data from the Beaufort wind scale.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 2010

When estimating the calmness in a harbor, it is important that diffraction and reflection of irregular waves should be exactly calculated. The basic equation of the numerical model in this study was used Mild-slope equation, which has the advantage of which non-linearity with great influence for the wave behavior can be considered, and a triangular mesh was generated by using finite element method. So as to verify the nonlinear effects, the results of the numerical model developed in this study are compared with the experimental and numerical results by other researchers. As a result, it is shown that the results in case of considering nonlinear wave are more exact for wave analysis than in case of not considering nonlinear wave. In order to apply this model, wave height distributions in Jumunjin fishery port installed a seawater-exchange breakwater are computed. From the results of this numerical analysis, when abnormal waves are intruded through the seawater-exchange breakwater, the results of the wave height distributions in the harbor are highly presented. Therefore, in order to get wave height low in the harbor, it is considered that the facility with the ability to protect the inflow of abnormal waves is needed.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.35 no.5
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• pp.682-689
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• 2011

Recently, there are frequent disasters by Swell-like Wave in the coastal area, Korea peninsula. This phenomenon (Swell-like Wave) has long period above 10 seconds compared with wind wave. To prevent these disasters by the long-period wave in advance, it's necessary to observe it in real time. But existing instruments for wave observation can not observe long-period wave because they mainly are aimed to measure the short-period wind wave. Therefore, in this research it is tried to develop the GPS based Long Period Wave Observation System which real time operation can be realzied in the sea.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.524-535
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• 2021

Rapid climate change and oceanic warming have increased the variability of oceanic wave heights over the past several decades. In addition, the extreme wave heights, such as the upper 1% (or 5%) wave heights, have increased more than the heights of the normal waves. This is true for waves both in global oceans as well as in local seas. Satellite altimeters have consistently observed significant wave heights (SWHs) since 1991, and sufficient SWH data have been accumulated to investigate 100-year return period SWH values based on statistical approaches. Satellite altimeter data were used to estimate the extreme SWHs at the Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS) for the period from 2005 to 2016. Two representative extreme value analysis (EVA) methods, the Initial Distribution Method (IDM) and Peak over Threshold (PoT) analysis, were applied for SWH measurements from satellite altimeter data and compared with the in situ measurements observed at the IORS. The 100-year return period SWH values estimated by IDM and PoT analysis using IORS measurements were 8.17 and 14.11 m, respectively, and those using satellite altimeter data were 9.21 and 16.49 m, respectively. When compared with the maximum value, the IDM method tended to underestimate the extreme SWH. This result suggests that the extreme SWHs could be reasonably estimated by the PoT method better than by the IDM method. The superiority of the PoT method was supported by the results of the in situ measurements at the IORS, which is affected by typhoons with extreme SWH events. It was also confirmed that the stability of the extreme SWH estimated using the PoT method may decline with a decrease in the quantity of the altimeter data used. Furthermore, this study discusses potential limitations in estimating extreme SWHs using satellite altimeter data, and emphasizes the importance of SWH measurements from the IORS as reference data in the East China Sea to verify satellite altimeter data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.462-469
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• 2009

This study suggests a general formula of non-cohesive sediment transport rates for waves and currents which is also valid for wave only or current only condition. On-offshore sediment transport rates with the second order Stokes wave in the shallow water are calculated as the pickup rate times the distance. The formula depicts reasonably that high waves move material offshore, and low waves move material onshore. Also the formula, as is the case the waves with long period tend to move material onshore, shows good results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.233-240
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• 2004

For the development of empirical equation of run-up height, a new surf parameter called' wave action slope' $S_x$ is introduced. Approximate equation has been produced for each band of water depth for the computation of wave run-up height using the laboratory graph of Saville(1958). On the other hand using the laboratory data of Ahrens(1988) and Mase(1989), empirical equations of run-up height have been developed for the general application with considering roughness effect covering a wide range of water depth and wall slope. When Mase tried to relate the run-up height to the Iribarren number, nonlinear relation has been obtained and hence the empirical equation has a power law. But when the wave action slope is adopted as a major factor for the estimation of run-up height the empirical equation shows a linear relationship with very good correlation for the wide range of water depth and wall slope.