• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.204-210
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• 1998

This paper presents the development of the probability density function applicable for wave heights (peak-to-trough excursions) in finite water depth including shallow water depth. The probability distribution applicable to wave heights of a non-Gaussian random process is derived based on the concept of the maximum entropy method. When wave heights are limited by breaking wave heights (or water depth) and only first and second moments of wave heights are given, the probability density function developed is closed form and expressed in terms of wave parameters such as $H_m$(mean wave height), $H_{rms}$(root-mean-square wave height), $H_b$(breaking wave height). When higher than third moment of wave heights are given, it is necessary to solve the system of nonlinear integral equations numerically using Newton-Raphson method to obtain the parameters of probability density function which is maximizing the entropy function. The probability density function thusly derived agrees very well with the histogram of wave heights in finite water depth obtained during storm. The probability density function of wave heights developed using maximum entropy method appears to be useful in estimating extreme values and statistical properties of wave heights for the design of coastal structures.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.34-37
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• 1993

지금까지의 항만정온도 평가시에는 주로 회귀연도 50연의 설계파를 입사파로 사용하여 대상수역에서의 파고비를 구한 후 평상시의 파랑에 대해서도 이 비율이 선형적으로 적용 가능한 것으로 가정하고 사용하였다. 그러나, 설계액와 평상시 파랑은 주기외 파고가 달라서 파랑경사가 다르므로 위와 같이 파고비가 선형적으로 비례한다고 가정하는 것은 실제와 상당한 차이를 야기시킬 수 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.278-293
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• 2019

The joint distribution of wave height and period has been maltreated despite of its great engineering value due to the absence of any analytical model for wave period, and as a result, no consensus has been reached about the effect of nonlinearity on these joint distribution. On the other hand, there was a great deal of efforts to study the effects of non-linearity on the wave height distribution over the last decades, and big strides has been made. However, these achievements has not been extended to the joint distribution of wave height and period. In this rationale, we first express the joint distribution of wave height and period as the product of the marginal distribution of wave heights with the conditional distribution of associated periods, and proceed to derive the joint distribution of wave heights and periods utilizing the models of Longuet-Higgins (1975, 1983), and Cavanie et al. (1976) for conditional distribution of wave periods, and height distribution derived in this study. The verification was carried out using numerically simulated data based on the Wallops spectrum, and the nonlinear wave data obtained via the numerical simulation of random waves approaching toward the uniform beach of 1:15 slope. It turns out that the joint distribution based on the height distribution for finite banded nonlinear waves, and Cavanie et al.'s model (1976) is most promising.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.571-576
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• 2015

This paper presents a comparative study of wave height estimation method that was used for signal to noise ratio and shadowing ratio based on X-band marine radar. If the signal to noise ratio, and is widely used as a method for estimating an wave height, a new method is presented for shadowing ratio. In the case of radar images used in this study it is measuring the data from the coast of Ulsan Jujeon, compared with marine meteorological information from the Meteorological Agency measured a light beacon. We compared the measured data for about 34 days, the typhoon was measured, incluidng a period in the East Sea, and verify the results for various distribution of wave height. For estimate wave height using a shadowing ratio analysis, it does not require calibration and real-time advantages of this part, coming confirmed the possibility of the measurement, the cause detection error for radar image was caused due to determine.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.188-196
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• 2009

This study conducted numerical simulations to analyze the wave characteristics(distribution) depending on the directional changes of waves in the Nakdong river estuary by using SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore) model. The results from the tests are summarized as below. The wave height rates are generally highly distributed with the incident waves from the S, SSE, SSW, SE, SW in sequence. When the waves from the S, SSW, SSE directions are predominant, the bigger waves were observed in front of sandbars. According to the results of the wave steepness against the wave direction, at the east coast of Gadeok island(northwest of Nakdong estuary), where has mild seabed slopes, the wave height rates distribute in the range of 0.4~0.6; the wave height rates over the west coastal region of Dadeapo(southeast of Nakdong estuary) are 0.5~0.6. The wave height rate tends to be rapidly decreased over the east region of Nakdong river estuary rather than its west region.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2004.05b
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• pp.1429-1433
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파에 대해 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험을 수행하였다. 수치해석 모형에서는 Reynolds 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 난류해석을 위해 $k-\varepsilon$모델을 적용하였으며, 자유수면변위를 추적하기 위해 VOF기법을 사용하져다. 사면 및 평탄지형상에서 발생하는 쇄파양상을 서로 다르게 설정하기 위해 수심과 입사파의 주기와 파고를 변화시킨다. 발생된 정현파의 파형은 해석해와 잘 일치하였으며, 입사파와 파고계가 설치된 위치에서 측정된 파고비 $H/H_0$는 관측값과 비교해 본 길과 놀은 정확도를 나타내었다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.84-94
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• 2023

The wave height and period regression curve is widely used to estimate the design wave period. In this study, the parameters of the curves are estimated, compared, and evaluated using the linear, robust linear, and nonlinear regression methods, respectively. The data used in the design wave height estimation are the annual maxima (AM) wave height and period data sets divided by typhoon and non-typhoon conditions, provided by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries (2019). The estimation parameters show significant differences in the local coastal waters and the estimation methods. The estimation parameters based on the Suh et al. (2008, 2010) method show the apparent bias, under-estimation in the intercept (scale) parameter, and over-estimation in the slope (exponent) parameter, respectively.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.202-208
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• 2001

Explicit approximation has been developed to estimate the run-up height on S-berm breakwater on the basis of Saville's hypothetical slope method. For the explicit expression of run-up height several relations are developed to represent the ratio of run-up height against breakwater slope with various conditions of water depth and wave steepness. For the verification of explicit approximation the results are compared with Saville's measurement data and simple expression of Delft Hydraulic Laboratory.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.112-120
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• 2010

In this paper time series wave data measured continuously for 24 hours during a storm in Yura Sea Area are used to investigate statistical characteristics of nonlinear waves. The exceedance probability of wave height is compared using the Rayleigh distribution and the Edgeworth-Rayleigh (ER) distribution. Wave data which show stationary state for 10 hours contain 4600 waves approximately. The Gram-Chalier distribution fits the probability of wave elevation better than the Gaussian distribution. The Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution follows the exceedance probability of wave height in general and predicts the probability of freak waves well. The ER distribution overpredicts the exceedance probability of wave heights and the occurrence of freak waves. If wave data measured for 30 minute period which contains 250 waves are used, the ER distribution can predict the occurrence probability of freak waves well. But it overpredicts the probability of overall wave height If no freak wave occurs, the Rayleigh ($H_{rms}$) distribution agrees well with wave height distribution for the most of wave height ranges. The wave height distribution of freak waves of which height are less than 10 m shows similar tendency compared with freak waves greater than 10 m. The value of $H_{max}/H_{1/3}$ is related to the kurtosis of wave elevation. It seems that there exists threshold value of the kurtosis for the occurrence of freak waves.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2004.05b
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• pp.1439-1444
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• 2004

이어도 기지에서 관측된 파랑 자료는 주변 수중 암초 또는 지형의 영향을 받으므로 수중 암초의 영향을 받지 않는 지역을 대표하는 주변 대표 파랑 자료로의 환산이 필요할 수 있다. 이를 위하여 본 연구에서는 이론적인 쇄파 모형(Lee, 1993)을 통하여 변환기술상 문제점을 파악하고 원형 천퇴에서의 수치실험을 통하여 천퇴 후면에서 파랑의 변형 정도를 파고비를 통하여 분석하였으며 이를 토대로 이어도 수중 암초에서의 파랑 변형이 관측 지점의 파고에 리치는 영향을 평가하였고 그 결과를 관측 치와 비교${\cdot}$분석하였다.