• 한국해양학회지
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.53-61
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• 1988

A capacitance wavestaff system was devised, which is suitable for the wave measurement near to surf zone. Laboratory tests show that the performance of the wavestaff is not significantly affected by the sea water characteristics such as temperature and salinity, and output signals of the wavestaff are linearly proportional to sea surface elevations. The major error source of the wavestaff system is the improper setting of the wavestaff in field experiment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.171-177
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• 2004

A new wave gauge using digital image of waves is developed and the performances are tested by wave tank experiments. This wave gauge uses frame frequency of 1/15 sec, conversion of analog images to digital images, and large capacity of hard disk. This wave gauge measures wave heights by detecting the buoy movement automatically from the image, where the buoy moves with the same phase of water surface. The comparison of automatic measurements of wave heights to the true data is reasonable. The wave gauge can be improved to measure wave heights on shallow waters near shorelines.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.561-568
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• 2020

Wave measurements using X-band radar have many advantages compared to other wave gauges including wave-rider buoy, P-u-v gauge and Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP), etc.. For example, radar system has no risk of loss/damage in bad weather conditions, low maintenance cost, and provides spatial distribution of waves from deep to shallow water. This paper presents new methods for estimating significant wave heights of X-band marine radar images using Artificial Neural Network (ANN). We compared the time series of estimated significant wave heights (Hs) using various estimation methods, such as signal-to-noise ratio (${\sqrt{SNR}}$), both and ${\sqrt{SNR}}$ the peak period (TP), and ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k). The estimated significant wave heights of the X-band images were compared with wave measurement using ADCP(AWC: Acoustic Wave and Current Profiler) at Hujeong Beach, Uljin, Korea. Estimation of Hs using ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k) yields best result.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.296-306
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• 2020

It has been reported that the wave heights measured by Wave and Tide gauges (WTG) have been underestimated, and thus it is important to improve its measuring accuracy for enhancing estimation of harbor tranquility. In this study, the significant wave heights from WTG were calibrated using measured data from AWAC and Waverider buoys moored at the same four locations with the WTG. It was observed that the product of significant wave height and peak wave period, HT, was not underestimated but linearly proportional between the measurements by two instruments. This linearity was applied to develop 3^rd order polynomial functions that best represented the relationship between HT and significant wave heights measured by WTG. These functions were then applied to calibrate the WTG significant wave heights that were lower than 0.7 m, the critical value established for the low waves in this study. The results showed that the linearity between the AWAC (or Waverider buoy) and calibrated wave heights were improved, and the magnitude of underestimated WTG wave heights were increased to be more realistic. The results of this study are expected to be effectively applied for other data sets obtained by WTG only, to increase the observation accuracy of WTG and to improve the estimation of harbor tranquility.

• Journal of the Korea Institute of Information and Communication Engineering
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1055-1062
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• 2015

A GPS based wave height meter system is proposed in this paper. The proposed system uses a dual-frequency measurements, a precise GPS satellite information and a PPP-based navigation algorithm to estimate the position with high accuracy. This method does not need to receive corrections from the reference stations. Therefore, unlike RTK based wave meter, regardless of the distance to the reference stations, it is possible to estimate position with high accuracy. This system is very simple and accurate system, but accelerometer-based system requires the other sensors such as GPS. Because position error is accumulated in the accelerometer system and must be removed periodically for high accuracy. In order to get the measurements and test the proposed wave height meter system, a buoy equipped with the test platform is installed on the sea near by Jukbyeon habor in Uljin, Korea. Then, to evaluate the performance, compares built-in commercial wave height meter with proposed system.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 2004

In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-year return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.51-64
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• 2002

To investigate long-period wave responses in Sokcho Harbor and Cheongcho lagoon, field measurements were made for long-and short-period waves and current velocities using a Directional Waverider, a ultrasonic-type wave gauge, four pressure-type wave gauges, and a current meter. From the data analysis, it was found that the Helmholtz resonant periods of Sokcho Harbor and Cheongcho lagoon are about 13.6 and 54.5 minutes, respectively, and the dominant period of wave induced current in the passage between Sokcho Harbor and Cheongcho lagoon is about 55.2 minutes which depends on Helmholtz resonant condition of the Cheongcho lagoon. It was also found that the energy level of the far-infra-gravity waves during storm conditions is very high compared with that during calm sea conditions. To investigate relationships between far-infra-gravity waves and short-period waves at offshore station, regression analyses were carried out especially for 1) heights, 2) periods, 3) direction and height, 4) height and period between short-and far-infra-gravity waves, respectively. The results showed that the long-period wave height is highly correlated with the short-period wave height. However, no special trend was found for the other relations. In the future far-infra-gravity wave heights on return period around Sokcho Harbor region can be suggested by using extreme value analyses of long term measured data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.278-293
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• 2019

The joint distribution of wave height and period has been maltreated despite of its great engineering value due to the absence of any analytical model for wave period, and as a result, no consensus has been reached about the effect of nonlinearity on these joint distribution. On the other hand, there was a great deal of efforts to study the effects of non-linearity on the wave height distribution over the last decades, and big strides has been made. However, these achievements has not been extended to the joint distribution of wave height and period. In this rationale, we first express the joint distribution of wave height and period as the product of the marginal distribution of wave heights with the conditional distribution of associated periods, and proceed to derive the joint distribution of wave heights and periods utilizing the models of Longuet-Higgins (1975, 1983), and Cavanie et al. (1976) for conditional distribution of wave periods, and height distribution derived in this study. The verification was carried out using numerically simulated data based on the Wallops spectrum, and the nonlinear wave data obtained via the numerical simulation of random waves approaching toward the uniform beach of 1:15 slope. It turns out that the joint distribution based on the height distribution for finite banded nonlinear waves, and Cavanie et al.'s model (1976) is most promising.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.24-34
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• 1997

To find the causes of the downtime problems in Pohang New Harbor, extensive field measurements of short- and long-period waves for 1.5 months and their analyses were made taking into account of wind and downtime records. Measured wave height ratios inside the harbor are appeared to be slightly larger than predicted ones using numerical methods in the previous studies. It is shown that the major causes of the downtime are the wind wave (or swell) higher than loading criteria and also swell with even smaller wave height but longer period(more than 10 sec). Waves of long-period components[0(min)] were recorded as 20 cm high in case of dominant seiche phenomena but they might not be related with the downtime problems.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2004.05b
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• pp.1429-1433
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 쇄파대에서 정현파의 쇄파에 대해 수리모형실험과 수치모형실험을 수행하였다. 수치해석 모형에서는 Reynolds 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 난류해석을 위해 $k-\varepsilon$모델을 적용하였으며, 자유수면변위를 추적하기 위해 VOF기법을 사용하져다. 사면 및 평탄지형상에서 발생하는 쇄파양상을 서로 다르게 설정하기 위해 수심과 입사파의 주기와 파고를 변화시킨다. 발생된 정현파의 파형은 해석해와 잘 일치하였으며, 입사파와 파고계가 설치된 위치에서 측정된 파고비 $H/H_0$는 관측값과 비교해 본 길과 놀은 정확도를 나타내었다.