• 출판저널
• /
• 통권299호
• /
• pp.63-63
• /
• 2001

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제24권2호
• /
• pp.173-182
• /
• 2022

As consumption pattern and fashion communication become digitalized, fashion houses are being inherited by creative directors owing to their expanding role. While the roles and responsibilities of creative directors have been changing extensively along with the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, researches on creative directions have mostly focused on luxury brands. This study examined the creative direction of John Galliano for Maison Margiela, a conceptual brand to be maintained by a creative director. To analyze this, the authors established a creative direction analysis model constituting five elements: brand heritage, trend, democratization, brand status, and persona, drawing on the luxury brand architecture by Kapferer and Bastien. Thus, Galliano has maintained anonymity as a heritage of Maison Margiela, expanding the existing Replica lines, and introduced fashion shows focusing on current issues or social phenomena. As a democratization strategy, he directed the brand to associate with more popular brands or expanded diffusion lines to secure broader customer base, while demonstrating couturier-like showmanship in the media and establishing his own persona. His direction for Maison Margiela recreates and expands brand heritage by transforming the brand philosophy. Therefore the new creative direction communicates with the wider public and diversifies customer bases through democratization strategies, while building Galliano's own persona.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제25권4호
• /
• pp.14-35
• /
• 2021

This study compares and analyzes the designs of Burberry creative directors, Christopher Bailey and Riccardo Tisci. For this purpose, 322 photographs (176 Christopher Bailey and 146 Riccardo Tisci) were collected and the data analysis criteria were classified into color, shape, material, decoration, item, and fashion style. With respect to the data analysis method, statistical analysis and content analysis were combined. First, the design characteristics of Christopher Bailey top and bottom combined bright tone, tone-in-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combination, and smart casual appeared very frequently. Second, the design characteristics of Riccardo Tisci top and bottom combined were monotone, tone-on-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combinations, and street culture. Third, the design differences between creative directors were significantly different in color, tone, color arrangement, pattern, material type, material combination, detail, top and bottom items, and fashion style. Burberry men's wear maintains Burberry's traditional design identity with achromatic colors, beige-based colors, and beige checks. Christopher Bailey's design direction is characterized by modernity in a casual mood that emphasizes practicality. The design direction of Riccardo Tisci is characterized by a wide gap between images in a semi-formal style that emphasizes Burberry's tradition and a free-spirited casual style.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제19권5호
• /
• pp.5-16
• /
• 2006

이 연구의 목적은 한국광고의 상황 논리라고 할 수 있는 광고 외적 변수를 배재하고, 최상의 광고효과를 창출할 수 있는 광고 크리에이티브 요인을 탐색하는데 있다. 이를 위하여 크리에이티브 품질 관리를 책임지고 있는 크리에이티브 디렉터(C.D)의 영향력에 연구의 초점을 맞춘다. 변혁적 리더는 카리스마(charisma), 영감(inspiration), 지적 자극(intellectual stimulation), 개인 배려(individual consideration), 창작물 목표(performance goal) 등에서 영향을 발휘할 수 있을 것이라는 가정에 연구문제를 두었다. 연구 결과, 크리에이티브 디렉터의 '영감 유발' 능력은 현재나 미래나 언제나 갖고 싶은 역랑이며 보완해야 할 역량으로 나타났다. '카리스마'는 현재에는 필요하지만 미래에는 반드시 필요한 가치가 아니라는 평가도 도출되었다. 오히려 '지적 자극'이라는 보다 소프트하고 지식 정보화된 역량을 선호하는 것으로 나타났다. '카리스마'는 미래의 다양성 사회에서는 창의력 향상에 장애요인이 될 수도 있다는 것을 암시하고 있었다. 불확실성 시대와 모호성 시대에 아이디어의 혁신은 경제적인 효과를 낳을 수 있다 (Cockayne, 2004). 따라서 개인과 조직의 크리에이티브 능력에서 상호 충돌의 문제와 비공식적 조직에서의 혁신 아이디어의 발생에 관한 연구도 요구된다. 또한 혁신적 리더의 비공식적인 네트워크의 역동성에 관한 문제도 후속 연구로 제안한다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제23권4호
• /
• pp.423-438
• /
• 2021

This study compared and analyzed the direction of Louis Vuitton creative directors Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh. Accordingly, 485 photos(251 Kim Jones, 234 Virgil Abloh) were collected. For data analysis, statistical and content analyses were combined. First, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Kim Jones, complex colors, colorful barrels, tone-in-tone color schemes, H-line, plain fabrics, soft materials, heterogeneous material combinations, casual style. Second, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Virgil Abloh, achromatic color, colorful tone, tone-on-tone color scheme, I-line, plain fabric, soft material, similar material combination, casual style. There were significant differences in color, tone, color scheme, silhouette, pattern, material type, material combination, fashion image, detail, trimming, top and bottom that differed in the creative directors' design direction. Therefore, it appears that Kim Jones has been directing the luxurious and unique men's wear through H-line, coat and slim pants, colorful color combination, soft material, heterogeneous material combination, plain fabric, and chic active sensibility. Meanwhile, Virgil Abloh is directing men's wear in a loose and trendy street mood through the I-line, jacket and wide pants, achromatic color, soft material, plain fabric, similar material combinations, and soft and sophisticated modern sensibility.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제21권3호
• /
• pp.277-287
• /
• 2019

This study analyzes the online issues of design innovation by a fashion creative director. The study selected fashion house Gucci as the main subject and analyzed social media posts. As for study methods, a social matrix program Textom 2.0 collected 13,014 nouns and adjectives using 'Gucci Collection' as a search keyword from Naver Blogs from March to August 2014 and from March to August 2016. Design related issues were derived through semantic network analysis using Ucinet6 and the NetDraw program. The results of the keyword frequency analysis showed that social media user interest for the Gucci collection increased based on the rapid increase in the number of posts from 1,064 to 2,126 after changing the fashion creative director. The results of visualization of semantic network analysis and content analysis also showed that the main issues related to the Gucci collection design changed after the replacement of the fashion creative director. The study found that issues formed around the product information worn by celebrities for promotion purposes during the 2014 period; however, during the 2016 period, issues were formed around 'vintage' and 'retro' runway concepts with design styles related to Alessandro Michele, the new creative director.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제19권5호
• /
• pp.547-558
• /
• 2017

Recently, the replacement of creative directors of fashion brands has gained attention from both researchers and practitioners. This study selected three representative fashion brands whose creative directors were replaced in the last 10 years, and analyzed the changed characteristics of their magazine advertisements. Literature studies and case studies were conducted as research methods. The subjects of the case studies were three fashion brands - 'Saint Laurent', 'Louis Vuitton', and 'Gucci'. Magazine advertisements were divided into two aspects: fashion photo elements and layout. The former can be classified into three components: the presence of a specific situation, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models. The latter can be classified into two components: the logo style and pictorial color. In terms of fashion photo elements, the presence of a specific situation in magazine advertisements appeared differently, depending on whether creative directors focus on the brand's own identity or on their own concept of each season. Also, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models changed depending on the situation. In terms of layout, there is no dramatic change in their logo styles, for they want to preserve their long tradition. And the more a creative director pursues younger sensibility, the more black and white color effect are added towards magazine advertisements. This study has its significance in that it confirms the replacement of creative directors has considerable influence on fashion brands' images and their magazine advertisements.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제24권1호
• /
• pp.83-98
• /
• 2022

This study identified the characteristics of the subculture aspects that led to the success of luxury brands and analyzed the implications of those aspects. For this, semantic analysis in a socio-cultural context was performed. Additionally, this study took the theoretical background, the change in subculture and post-subculture, the digital youth generation, and the change in the meaning of subculture style into consideration. The subculture style aspect and its meaning in luxury fashion brands were analyzed as follows: First, there are challenges that betray the legitimacy or values of luxury brands. Through this, the brand gained recognition and increased sales, and the designer gained a reputation as an innovative creative director. It can be seen that more successful branding was promoted by securing a more subcultured fandom. Second, by combining subculture image fragments, these brands cater to the diverse tastes of a myriad of subcultures. This maximizes commercial profits. Third, most promotional marketing activities are collaborative and done digitally, which allows for a wider customer base, but the difference is in digital capabilities. Limited editions or application use on social networks can act as another driver. It is said that the distinction in high-priced luxury brands is not only driven by economic power but also by sub-cultural capital and digital ability.

• 복식
• /
• 제67권2호
• /
• pp.68-87
• /
• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

• 디지털융복합연구
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.373-379
• /
• 2019

본 연구는 SM 엔터테인먼트의 사례를 통해 비주얼디렉팅의 프로세스와 영역 확장에 대해 살펴보고 비주얼디렉터의 역할과 역량에 대해 알아보기 위한 것이다. 사례분석 결과 SM은 크리에이티브 본부내에 아트디렉터와 시각디자이너들로 구성된 비주얼 디렉팅팀을 만들어 비주얼디렉팅을 아이돌 개발 및 인기 지속을 위해 적극적으로 도입하고 있었다. 스타마케팅의 일환으로 전개되고 있는 비주얼디렉팅의 프로세스로는, 마케팅 전략상의 환경분석, 아이돌과 관련된 마케팅 전략 수립, 아티스트별 타겟 이미지 설정, 비주얼 디렉팅 프로젝트 기획 플랜 및 제작 관리를 하는 것으로 나타났다. 비주얼디렉터는 논리력을 바탕으로 창의적 감각, 논리적 설득, 정보 분석력, 시각적 표현력, 현장 적용력 등의 역량을 요구하고 있었다. SM은 아이돌 가수들의 비주얼디렉팅에 그치지 않고 MD 상품 디자인과 제작, 상품구성과 디자이너 콜라보레이션(협업), SM타운 코엑스아티움 등 SM의 사업영역을 확장하는 곳마다 아이돌 가수에서부터 축적된 비주얼 디렉팅을 적용하고 있었다. 본 논문은 현재 음악산업의 K-Pop 아이돌 제작 시스템 안에서 활발하게 나름의 영역을 만들고 독창적인 세계를 구축해나가고 있는 비주얼 디렉팅을 학문적 영역으로 끌어올렸다는 데 그 의의를 찾을 수 있다.