• The Korean Publising Journal, Monthly
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• s.299
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• pp.63-63
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• 2001

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.173-182
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• 2022

As consumption pattern and fashion communication become digitalized, fashion houses are being inherited by creative directors owing to their expanding role. While the roles and responsibilities of creative directors have been changing extensively along with the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, researches on creative directions have mostly focused on luxury brands. This study examined the creative direction of John Galliano for Maison Margiela, a conceptual brand to be maintained by a creative director. To analyze this, the authors established a creative direction analysis model constituting five elements: brand heritage, trend, democratization, brand status, and persona, drawing on the luxury brand architecture by Kapferer and Bastien. Thus, Galliano has maintained anonymity as a heritage of Maison Margiela, expanding the existing Replica lines, and introduced fashion shows focusing on current issues or social phenomena. As a democratization strategy, he directed the brand to associate with more popular brands or expanded diffusion lines to secure broader customer base, while demonstrating couturier-like showmanship in the media and establishing his own persona. His direction for Maison Margiela recreates and expands brand heritage by transforming the brand philosophy. Therefore the new creative direction communicates with the wider public and diversifies customer bases through democratization strategies, while building Galliano's own persona.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.14-35
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• 2021

This study compares and analyzes the designs of Burberry creative directors, Christopher Bailey and Riccardo Tisci. For this purpose, 322 photographs (176 Christopher Bailey and 146 Riccardo Tisci) were collected and the data analysis criteria were classified into color, shape, material, decoration, item, and fashion style. With respect to the data analysis method, statistical analysis and content analysis were combined. First, the design characteristics of Christopher Bailey top and bottom combined bright tone, tone-in-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combination, and smart casual appeared very frequently. Second, the design characteristics of Riccardo Tisci top and bottom combined were monotone, tone-on-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combinations, and street culture. Third, the design differences between creative directors were significantly different in color, tone, color arrangement, pattern, material type, material combination, detail, top and bottom items, and fashion style. Burberry men's wear maintains Burberry's traditional design identity with achromatic colors, beige-based colors, and beige checks. Christopher Bailey's design direction is characterized by modernity in a casual mood that emphasizes practicality. The design direction of Riccardo Tisci is characterized by a wide gap between images in a semi-formal style that emphasizes Burberry's tradition and a free-spirited casual style.

• Archives of design research
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• v.19 no.5 s.67
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• pp.5-16
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to bring to the center of focus, the ad creativity, which in turn can generate the highest advertising effects. The study excludes external factors such as personal relationships, academic network and lobbying powers which were prevalent in the Korean situation. A transformational leader can influence charisma, inspiration, intellectual stimulation, individual consideration and performance goal. As the result of this study shows, the core competence that a C.D. may always want to possess at present as well as in the future is to "motivate inspiration". Charisma may be an ability currently in need but this may not necessarily be so in the future. It may be predicted that a softer quality, which is knowledge-based, that provides intellectual stimulation may be a more valued characteristic. It has been suggested that in the increasingly diversifying society of the future, charisma may be a barrier to enhancing creativity. In times of uncertainty and ambiguity, innovative ideas bring economic rewards (Cockayne, 2004). There may be conflicts of views and opinions between individuals and organizations. Turning these into positive outcome to produce innovative ideas, may be an area of further study. However, there must have been studies where informal networking has produced innovative ideas. Therefore, a transformational leader of an organization needs to investigate the dynamics of informal networking within his team.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.423-438
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• 2021

This study compared and analyzed the direction of Louis Vuitton creative directors Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh. Accordingly, 485 photos(251 Kim Jones, 234 Virgil Abloh) were collected. For data analysis, statistical and content analyses were combined. First, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Kim Jones, complex colors, colorful barrels, tone-in-tone color schemes, H-line, plain fabrics, soft materials, heterogeneous material combinations, casual style. Second, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Virgil Abloh, achromatic color, colorful tone, tone-on-tone color scheme, I-line, plain fabric, soft material, similar material combination, casual style. There were significant differences in color, tone, color scheme, silhouette, pattern, material type, material combination, fashion image, detail, trimming, top and bottom that differed in the creative directors' design direction. Therefore, it appears that Kim Jones has been directing the luxurious and unique men's wear through H-line, coat and slim pants, colorful color combination, soft material, heterogeneous material combination, plain fabric, and chic active sensibility. Meanwhile, Virgil Abloh is directing men's wear in a loose and trendy street mood through the I-line, jacket and wide pants, achromatic color, soft material, plain fabric, similar material combinations, and soft and sophisticated modern sensibility.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.277-287
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• 2019

This study analyzes the online issues of design innovation by a fashion creative director. The study selected fashion house Gucci as the main subject and analyzed social media posts. As for study methods, a social matrix program Textom 2.0 collected 13,014 nouns and adjectives using 'Gucci Collection' as a search keyword from Naver Blogs from March to August 2014 and from March to August 2016. Design related issues were derived through semantic network analysis using Ucinet6 and the NetDraw program. The results of the keyword frequency analysis showed that social media user interest for the Gucci collection increased based on the rapid increase in the number of posts from 1,064 to 2,126 after changing the fashion creative director. The results of visualization of semantic network analysis and content analysis also showed that the main issues related to the Gucci collection design changed after the replacement of the fashion creative director. The study found that issues formed around the product information worn by celebrities for promotion purposes during the 2014 period; however, during the 2016 period, issues were formed around 'vintage' and 'retro' runway concepts with design styles related to Alessandro Michele, the new creative director.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.547-558
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• 2017

Recently, the replacement of creative directors of fashion brands has gained attention from both researchers and practitioners. This study selected three representative fashion brands whose creative directors were replaced in the last 10 years, and analyzed the changed characteristics of their magazine advertisements. Literature studies and case studies were conducted as research methods. The subjects of the case studies were three fashion brands - 'Saint Laurent', 'Louis Vuitton', and 'Gucci'. Magazine advertisements were divided into two aspects: fashion photo elements and layout. The former can be classified into three components: the presence of a specific situation, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models. The latter can be classified into two components: the logo style and pictorial color. In terms of fashion photo elements, the presence of a specific situation in magazine advertisements appeared differently, depending on whether creative directors focus on the brand's own identity or on their own concept of each season. Also, the background of photos and objects, and the atmosphere of models changed depending on the situation. In terms of layout, there is no dramatic change in their logo styles, for they want to preserve their long tradition. And the more a creative director pursues younger sensibility, the more black and white color effect are added towards magazine advertisements. This study has its significance in that it confirms the replacement of creative directors has considerable influence on fashion brands' images and their magazine advertisements.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.83-98
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• 2022

This study identified the characteristics of the subculture aspects that led to the success of luxury brands and analyzed the implications of those aspects. For this, semantic analysis in a socio-cultural context was performed. Additionally, this study took the theoretical background, the change in subculture and post-subculture, the digital youth generation, and the change in the meaning of subculture style into consideration. The subculture style aspect and its meaning in luxury fashion brands were analyzed as follows: First, there are challenges that betray the legitimacy or values of luxury brands. Through this, the brand gained recognition and increased sales, and the designer gained a reputation as an innovative creative director. It can be seen that more successful branding was promoted by securing a more subcultured fandom. Second, by combining subculture image fragments, these brands cater to the diverse tastes of a myriad of subcultures. This maximizes commercial profits. Third, most promotional marketing activities are collaborative and done digitally, which allows for a wider customer base, but the difference is in digital capabilities. Limited editions or application use on social networks can act as another driver. It is said that the distinction in high-priced luxury brands is not only driven by economic power but also by sub-cultural capital and digital ability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.68-87
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• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.373-379
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• 2019

This study examines the process and scope of visual directing through the case of SM Entertainment, and explores the role of visual directors. As a result of the case study, SM created the visual directing team composed of art director and visual designers within the creative headquarters and was actively introducing visual directing for the development of idol. The visual directing process of SM, which is being developed as a part of the star marketing, consists of analyzing the environment in marketing strategy, establishing marketing strategy related to idol, setting up target image per artist, and finally planning and managing the visual directing project. The visual director in SM is required to have creative talent, logical persuasion, information analytical ability, visual expression ability, and field application ability. SM also applies visual directing accumulated from idol singers to SM business areas such as MD product design and production, product composition and designer collaboration, and SM town COEX artium. This paper have significance in attracting visual directing to the academic field.