• 복식
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• 제6권
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• pp.105-119
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• 1982

This thesis is mainly about the changes of Garment's collar(옷깃) and outer collar (옷섶) which indicate the identification of dress history. Through the observations of some reports about important folk materials and genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on Yi-Dynasty. (1400-1900) For the shape of the outer lapels(겉깃) of Korean Jacket(저고리) were used together Squar-Tray-Collar(목판깃), Sharped-Collar(칼깃), and Dang ko-Collar(당코깃) and coming to the end of inner lapels(안깃) formed squar-tray-collar. Squar-tray-collar and sharped-collar were mainly used together for the shape of the outer lapels of Korean overcoat(포). Dang ko-collar was seen only in two overcoat. Coming to the 18th centry, the outer lapels became round-edged like those of jackets, while the inner lapels formed squar-tray-collar. In the process of positional changes of the collar and outer collar of Korean jacket and overcoat, the outer lapels positioned outside the outer collar, or a part of width of collar's positioned upon the outer collar, or the whole outer lapels positioned inside the outer collar. And through these changes the current position of the outer lapels became settled in the end of the 19th centry. But the inner lapels did not undergo many changes compared with the outer ones, and their position was mainly outside the outer collar like those of current lapels. And the garment's collar and outer collar of jacket and overcoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie(고름) became large.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.29-46
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• 1995

This study is on the classification of Chchori forms in Korea in the 16 th and 17 th Centuries by investigating the patterns an construction of excavated clothong. The characteristic features of the Korean Chchori in the period are as follow. 1. The Chchori shows forms. The diversity is accomplished by varing the components pattern is Chchori, such as collar, sleeve, and bodice. The divertification in Chchori pattern represents an attempt to advance the simple Chchori pattern in the 4 th and 5 th Centuries to the mordern one. 2. Mokpankit (목판깃) has a straight construction line but Kalkit (칼깃), Dangkogit(당코깃) have curved one. This suggests a transformation in the construction line of Chchori. 3. Among Chchori pattern, some Mokpankit and Kalkit Chchori show two kinds in size ; 40-50 cm and 60-70 . However, Dangkokit Chchori has only one size of 40-50cm. Considering the difference in body size between man and woman , Mokpankit Chchori and Kalkit Chchori are jueged to be for man and woman commonly, and Dangkokit Chchori is for woman only. After the period , woman wears only Dangkokit Chchori, whichis thought to come from the sex discrimination. Consequently on the viewpoint of rinsiple of Adaptation to Environments, forementioned facts prove the changes in Korean society in the 16 th and 17 th centuries on the historical basis of costume.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.131-144
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• 2009

This study is about single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ excavated from SongHyosang(宋效商, 1430-1490, SHS hereafter), SongHeeJong(宋喜從, the late 1500s, SHJ hereafter) tombs. There are 7 single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ for men. We focus on comparison of their design and sowing method. 1. Design: Investigating collar, $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHS have MokpanGit and $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHJ have KalGit. KalGit has been seen from SHJ to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. After the late 1500s, there is no MokpanGit single-laTered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ for men. Side panel under arm has various shapes(triangle, trapezoid, triangle+trapezoid) in 15th century. After the late 1500s, It changes into no side panel. Two $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ with no side panel from SHJ reveals that the late 1500s is a period of transition. 2. Sewing method: First, researching lengthwise grainline of the fly, the left fly has lengthwise grainline outside In four, inside in three. The right fly has lengthwise grainline outside in just one, the others have lengthwise grainline inside. Compared with today's way, there is a great difference, but in those times there isn't an established rule. This is true of side panel under arm. The sewing method are backstitch, running stitch, and hemming. Researching the construction method of seam, in putting two selvages together, open seam and plain seam are used. In putting selvage and bias, bias and bias together, flat felled seam and french seam are used. This study shows that single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ far men from 15C. to 16C. has changes of design such as collar(Git) and side panel undo. arm. But there is little change in sewing method.