• Title/Summary/Keyword: 치마길이

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A Comparison Study of New Hanbok Brand Skirt Pattern for developing of customizing system (커스터마이징 시스템 개발을 위한 신한복 브랜드 치마 패턴 비교)

  • Cha, Su-Joung;An, Myung-Sook;Heo, Seung-Hyun
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Computer Information Conference
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    • 2020.01a
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    • pp.269-270
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    • 2020
  • 본 논문에서는 한류의 영향으로 그 관심이 증가되고 있는 신한복 커스터마이징 시스템 개발을 위해 신한복 치마 패턴개발에 필요한 기초자료를 얻고자 시판 6개 신한복 브랜드의 치마 패턴을 비교분석하였다. 같은 디자인의 free사이즈 치마임에도 불구하고 각기 다른 치수로 제작되는 것으로 나타났다. 치마길이는 17cm, 허리벨트길이는 29cm, 허리벨트폭은 4.5cm, 끈길이는 72.7cm, 치마길이는 17.0cm, 치마폭은 90.5cm의 차이를 나타냈다. 같은 신한복 치마임에도 브랜드에 따라 치수 차이가 큰 것으로 분석되어 치수규격의 정리가 필요할 것으로 사료된다. 한국 성인여성의 신체치수를 분석하여 그에 적합한 신한복 치마 패턴 개발이 이루어져야 함을 알 수 있다.

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Development of New Hanbok Cheollik One Piece Prototype

  • Cha, Su-Joung;An, Myung-Sook;Heo, Seung-Yeun
    • Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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    • v.26 no.10
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    • pp.125-137
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    • 2021
  • This study was intended to develop a prototype of new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece. Through this, it was intended to provide information on patterns that are fundamental to the production of new Hanbok Cheollik one piece. The pattern of the experiment was produced by modifying D pattern, which was selected as excellent in the comparison of commercial Cheollik one-piece patterns. The SPSS 26.0 program was used to analyze the appearance evaluation of patterns. As a result of the 1st evaluation of appearance and garment pressure, the shoulder, sleeve length, skirt length and sleeve width required modification, reducing the sleeve length by 8.0cm and the sleeve width by 1.0cm in total. The length of the skirt was reduced by 5.0cm and the shoulder end point was reduced by 0.5cm on both sides to modify the shoulder width. As a result of the 2nd evaluation, the waist area, sleeve width, and skirt wrinkles were required to be corrected, reducing 2.0 cm waist width and 1.0 cm sleeve width and removing wrinkles on the front center and side area. The final pattern was highly appreciated. In future studies, it is thought that research should be conducted through study of Cheollik one-piece pattern according to material and age and the actual wearing experiment according to fabric and age.

Analysis of Clothing in a Painting Album of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Feast in the Collection of the National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》 속 등장인물의 복식 고찰)

  • LEE Eunjoo
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.56 no.3
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    • pp.76-98
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    • 2023
  • The results of analyzing the outfits of male and female characters depicted in the "Hoehonryedocheop" (回婚禮圖帖, Deoksu 6375) held by the National Museum of Korea and estimating its production date of the "Hoehonryedocheop"are as follows. Firstly, an elderly groom is depicted wearing a patterned heukdanryeong (黑團領) with rank badges, a garment commonly donned by government officials in works such as "Jeonanryedo (奠鴈禮圖)" and "Gyobaeryedo (交拜禮圖)". And the old groom in "Heonsuryedo (獻壽禮圖)" "Jeobbindo (接賓圖)" and "Jungroeyeondo (重牢宴圖)" is shown wearing a jarip (purple hat) without a paeyoung (ornamental jewelry strap), accompanied by jade colored robe with a red strap belt. Gireokabeom (雁夫) is observed wearing a jarip (紫笠) adorned with a paeyoung (貝纓) and a patternless heukdanryeong with rank badges. Adult male descendants are depicted wearing dopo (道袍), while guests wear dopo, cheolrik (帖裏), and jikryeong (直領), accompanied by red and blue straps denoting their social status. Jingssi (徵氏), sidong (侍童), and young grandchildren are observed wearing jungchimak(中赤莫). The young servants are wearing jungchimak, and the boys carrying the food have braided their hair and worn sochangu (小氅衣), while adults servants wore jeonrip (氈笠) and sochangui. Performers are seen clad in a sochangui, jeonbok, and a blue sash around their waists. Secondly, the elderly bride is portrayed wearing a keunmeori (ceremonial headdress) and a green wonsam (圓衫) in "Gyobaeryedo," while in "Heonsuyeondo," she is depicted in a blue skirt and a jade colored jeogori (赤古里). Women descendants are shown adorning headdress decorations, such as binyeo(簪), banja(斑子) and pearl daenggi (眞珠唐紒) on their eoyeomeori (於于味, ceremonial headdress). They are further dressed in skirts of navy, red, and jade hues, paired with various-colored jeogori. Additionally, a woman wearing a navy skirt and a green jangot (長衣) is also depicted. The dongnyeo (童女, unmarried women) wear beolsaengmeri (娘子雙髻), headdress) with long binyeo and long dodaik-daenggi (都多益唐只). They wear chilbo-jokduri (七寶簇頭里) and a red skirt with a green hoejang-jeogori (回裝赤古里). Bija (婢子) wears garima (加里亇) on her eoyeomeori and is seen dressed in skirts and jeogori resembling those worn by noble women, albeit with lighter colors, shorter skirt length, and a subdued volume. Ginyeo's attire bears similarities to that of noble women, although with a dress with less vibrant tones and devoid of decorations on the eoyeomeori. Thirdly, based on the main character's jarip, along with the cheolrik and jikryeong worn by the guests, as well as the performances by musicians of the military camp, it is suggested that the main character of the 60th wedding anniversary is connected to the Ministry of Military Affairs or the military camp. Judging by the military band's short-sleeved vest, the silhouettes of the women dress, and the headdresses, it is likely that the "Hoehonryedocheop" was produced between the 1760s and 1780s.

A Study on the Age Role Norm of Skirt Length (치마길이의 연령규범에 관한 연구)

  • 김인숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.19 no.4
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    • pp.580-589
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    • 1995
  • When age-role i-: being confused and fasion is as whimsical as these days, the norm on the length of the skirt can be a matter of controversy. This study aimed to see if there exists decisive norm on skirt lengths according to the age of feminine stimuli and the sex and age of perceiver. It also aimed to find out whether the norm of the individual perceiver is influenced by the assumed norm of generalized others. Questionnaire including linedrawings of feminine lower body was given out to be marked with age-proper length of skirt. Results revealed existence of certain length norms according to the age of the stimuli. Norms also varied according to the age of the perceiver and interaction effects among the age, sex of the perceiver and the age of the stimuli existed. Assumed norms of the generalized others were different from the actual norms of the individual. Interaction between the ages of the stimuli and perceiver affected the difference between the actural individual norm and the assumed norm of the generalized others.

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Style changes on women's hemline length - Focus on daywear in Vogue's 1950~2013 magazine - (여성 스커트 길이 스타일 변화주기에 관한 연구 - 1950년부터 2013년까지 Vogue 자료를 중심으로 -)

  • Ahn, In Sook
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.22 no.4
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    • pp.543-554
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study was to find whether hemline cycles exist and whether hemlines show greater within-year variability over time. Utilizing US Vogue data from 1950 to 2013 on hemline length of women's daywear, total 2102 day-dresses or skirts on full fashion pictures were analyzed. The skirt length was divided by the total length of figure in the picture which was measured from shoulder to ankle. Aggregated yearly means smoothed by means of three-point moving averages were used to provide a better indication of the long-term direction of movement of the hemline. Within-year hemline variability was smoothed by the way of three-point moving average as well. The data showed five cycles on hemline change processes. The first cycle took 21 years from 1950 to 1971, which was the longest period and had the biggest hemline changes. The second cycle was the shortest from 1971 to 1977, in which hemline moved between below-knee length and midcalf. The hemline in the third cycle moved between midcalf and miniskirt. The third cycle took 16 years from 1977 to 1993. The forth was a short cycle from 1998 to 2001, and hemlines moved moderately between below-knee length and above-knee length. The fifth cycle has been on going since 2001, and the hemline has been getting longer after 2007. The within-year variability of hemlines was bigger in 1980s than previous years and was steadily increased.

唐诗中的唐人服饰

  • 杨忠
    • Journal of the Daesoon Academy of Sciences
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    • v.16
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    • pp.217-226
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    • 2003
  • 당시(唐詩)에는 당나라 사람들의 생활상이 많이 반영되고 있으며, 이러한 기록들은 많은 부분에 있어서 역사서적의 내용과 일치하기도 한다. 그러므로 우리는 당시를 통하여 당나라의 제도 뿐만 아니라 당나라 사람들의 생활도 광범위하게 이해할 수 있다. 본 고에서 우리는 당시에서 언급되고 있는 당나라 사람들의 복식에 있어서 몇 가지 문제들을 간략히 서술하기로 한다. 당대 초기에는 수나라 복제를 따랐으나, 태종(太宗)과 고종(高宗)을 거치면서 품급에 따라 복색을 구체적으로 구분하였으며, 여자들도 남편의 복색을 따랐다. 황색을 황제의 복색으로 한 것은 고종 총장 원년(668)에 시작되었다. 고종 상원(上元) 원년(674)에는 또 관원의 품급에 따라 색깔의 짙고 옅음을 엄격히 구분하였을 뿐만 아니라 요대의 장식물 재료에도 상세한 규정을 함으로써 신분의 차이를 더욱 구체적으로 구분하였다. 관복의 색깔로 등급의 차이를 구별한 외에도 5품 이상의 관원에게는 어부(魚符)를 담는 어대(魚袋)를 차고 다니게 함으로써 귀천을 분별하였고, 조정의 부름에 응하는 부신(符信)으로 삼았다. 어부는 물고기 모양으로 관등에 따라 금(金)·은(銀)·동(銅)으로 만들어 몸에 지니고 다녔다. 관원들은 갓의 모양으로도 귀천을 구분하였다. 귀족을 갓을 썼으나 평민은 쓰지 못하였고, 문관과 무관도 갓을 각기 달리하였다. 당시에는 또 여자들의 복식과 관련한 묘사도 상당히 보인다. 당나라 때의 여자들은 한(漢)나라 진(晋)나라 때와 마찬가지로 일반적으로 윗옷과 치마를 입었다. 치마는 가슴에서 동여매었고, 그 길이도 매우 길어 땅에 3촌(寸)까지 끌렸다. 여자들은 대개 상의(上衣) 밖에 이른바 반비(半臂)라는 반소매의 옷을 입었다. 본래는 궁녀들이 일하기 편리한 복장으로 입었는데, 후에 점차 여자들의 평상복이 되었다. 여자들의 눈썹과 머리형에 관해서도 당시에는 많이 묘사되고 있다. 여자들의 머리장식과 화장 그리고 몸의 각종 장식구에 대해서도 당시에는 상당히 언급되고 있다. 당나라 여자들의 복식에 있어서 가장 큰 특징은 국내 소수민족 및 외국의 복식에 영향을 받아 "호복(胡服)"을 즐겨 입었다는 점이다. 이른바 "호복"은 서역만을 가리키는 것이 아니라 주변국들의 복장도 가리킨다. 여자들이 쓰는 모자와 신발에도 많은 변화가 생겼다. 당나라 중원지역에는 "만화(蠻靴)"를 신는 여자들이 생겨났으며, 이것은 호복의 하나로 호화(胡靴)라고 칭하기도 하였다. 여자들의 미와 상대적인 자유에 대한 추구는 당시에 강렬히 나타나고 있으며, 이것은 당나라 여자들의 사상이 점차로 개방화되고 있음을 시사해 준다. 이러한 개방의 과정은 당나라 사회의 개방과 사상문화의 교류·진보와 밀접히 관련하는 것이다. 그래서 당나라 사람들의 복식에 대한 당시의 묘사는 우리가 당나라 사회와 사람들의 생활을 이해하는데 중요한 단서가 되고 있다고 말할 수 있다.

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A Historical Research on Improved Changes of Korean Traditional Costume (한복개량에 대한 사적 고찰)

  • Koo, Mi-Ji
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.10 no.1
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    • pp.123-131
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    • 1998
  • This research was investigated the improved changes of Korean traditional costume after introducing the western costumes in this society. For this study microfilms of Chosun llbo, the popular newspaper since 1920s, and costume magazines for 1950s and 1960s were examined. The periods of the improved changing of Korean traditional costume were divided by the characteristics of qualitative and quantitative changes. Those were two, such as passive period and active period of change. At passive period, the change was not far from the original from of traditional costume and it was limited to the waist of skirt, length and width. But at active period, there was distinctive change from the previous period. Active period is divided by 2 sub-period again. In 1950s, the concept of darts of western costume was accepted to Korean costume and there was the western clothing for everyday costume, the characteristics of Korean costume were added to the base of the western clothing. It was named 'Arirang dress'. Original Korean costume had worn for special occasions since late 1950s.

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Growth Characteristics of Lettuce under Low Pressure (저압조건에서 상추의 생육 특성)

  • Park, Jong-Hyun;Kim, Yong-Hyeon
    • Journal of Bio-Environment Control
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.303-308
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    • 2009
  • This study was conducted to analyze the feasibility of plant growth under low pressure and to investigate the effect of pressure on plant growth. Three levels of pressures (25, 50, and 101.3 kPa (control)) were provided to analyze the growth of Lettuce (Lactuca sativa L.) as affected by low pressure. Photoperiod, air temperature, and photosynthetic photon flux were set at 16/8 h, 26/$18^{\circ}C$, and $240{\mu}mol{\cdot}m^{-2}s^{-1}$, respectively. Growth characteristics of lettuce were measured on 7 days and 14 days after experiment. Leaf length, leaf width, leaf area, and root dry weight of lettuce measured on 7 days under 25 and 50 kPa were significant as compared to the control. Leaf length, top dry matter and root dry matter of lettuce measured on 14 days were significantly different under 25 and 50 kPa. From these results, we confirmed that lettuce could be grown under low pressure. However high relative humidity by evapotranspiration from leaves and growing beds under low pressure caused the condensation on the inner surface of the chamber. Therefore in a low pressure chamber, humidity control is required to maintain the relative humidity at a proper level.

STUDY ON THE ANCHOVY BOAT SEINE 1. On the Hydrodynamic Resistance and Performance of the Conventional Gear (기선기현강의 연구 1, 재래식 어구의 유구저황과 그물꼴에 관하여)

  • LEE Byoung-gee;YANG Yong-rim;SU Young-tae;SON Boo-il
    • Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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    • v.4 no.3_4
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    • pp.79-91
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    • 1971
  • A boat seine has been used as a major fishing gear for catching anchovy (Engraulis japonica) in the southern coastal waters of Korea since 1920s. The original seine was operated by two rowing boats as the haul seine. The rowing boats were, in recent, replaced by powered boats. The net size was enlarged by more than three times the original nit as they began to by operated in the deeper waters of approximately sixty meters. However, there are many problems in the efficiency of the fishing gear to be improved. The authors studied on the hydrodynamic resistance and performance of the boat seine net of the 1/10 scale model in tow. The results are summaried as follows. 1. The hydrodynamic resistance converted from model experiment into the full scale is: $$R_1=30,000\;v^{1.2}\;(0.2{\leqq}v{\leqq}1.0)$$ $$R_2=16,000\;v^2\;(0.2{\leqq}v{\leqq}0.6)$$ where $R_1$ and $R_2$ denote the resistance of whole gear and of bag net in kg respectively, and v the speed of flow in m/sec. 2. In the extension wing, approximately seventy percent of the length of the ground rope from the towing end to the inside-wing slopes down from sea level toward the sea bottom, while the thirty percent of the inside of it remains parallel with th: 5:a level. The performance is regarded to b: inefficient for driving fish shoal into the inside-wing, especially for the shoal diving suddenly. 3. At the towing speed higher than 0.2 m/sec, the trailing edge of the inside-wing is blown backward beyond the seaming line connecting the inside-wing and the mouth of the bag net. It is regarded as an unreasonable performance to drive the fish shoal smoothly into the bag net. 4. At the towing speed higher than 0.2 m/sec, the posterior end of the lower bosom is lifted up above the level of the ground rope of the inside-wing. It is considered that the fish shoal diving suddenly can escape through the discrepancy between the lower bosom and the sea bottom, even if the ground rope of the inside-wing sweeps the sea bottom. 5. The angle of inclination of the upper bosom is estimated as $35\~40^{\circ}$. It seems that the inclination is too steep to drive smoothly the fish shoal diving toward the sea bottom into the bag net. 6. In structure, circumference of the posterior section of the bag net is wider by 1.3 times that of the anterior section. Actually in towing at a speed higher than 0.2m/sec, however, the circumference of the posterior section becomes smaller than that of the anterior section. It is recommended to be designed in a long cylindrical form.

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Development of the paper bagging machine for grapes (휴대용 포도자동결속기 개발연구)

  • Park, K.H.;Lee, Y.C.;Moon, B.W.
    • Journal of Practical Agriculture & Fisheries Research
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.79-94
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    • 2009
  • The research project was conducted to develop a paper bagging machine for grape. This technology was aimed to highly reduce a labor for paper bagging in grape and bakery. In agriculture labor and farm population has rapidly decreased since 1980 in Korea so there was so limit in labor. In particular there is highly population in women and old age at rural area and thus labor cost is so high. Therefore a labor saving technology in agricultural sector might be needed to be replaced these old age with mechanical and labor saving tool in agriculture. The following was summarized of the research results for development of a paper bagging machine for grape. 1. Development of a new paper bagging machine for grape - This machine was designed by CATIA VI2/AUTO CAD2000 programme. - A paper bagging machine was mechanically binded a paper bag of grape which should be light and small size. This machine would be designed for women and old age with convenience during bagging work at the field site. - This machine was manufactured with total weight of less than 350g. - An overage bagging operation was more than 99% at the actual field process. - A paper bagging machine was designed with cartridge type which would be easily operated between rows and grape branches under field condition. - The type of cartridge pin was designed as a C-ring type with the length of 500mm which was good for bagging both grape and bakery. - In particular this machine was developed to easily operated among vines of the grape trees. 2. Field trials of a paper bagging machine in grape - There was high in grape quality as compared to the untreated control at the application of paper bagging machine. - The efficiency of paper bagging machine was 102% which was alternative tool for the conventional. - The roll pin of paper bagging machine was good with 5.3cm in terms of bagging precision. - There was no in grape quality between the paper bagging machine and the conventional method. - Disease infection and grape break was not in difference both treatments.