• 한국문화재보존과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.109-114
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• 2004

The purpose of this study lies in analyzing the characteristics of the carbonized textile fabrics and to know the carbonizing mechanism. Samples were Jiyo excavated from the grave of Mrs. Hansan Lee as the wife of Jinju Kang at Daeduk-gu, Daejon, and black fragements assumed as of the outside material of cotton skirt and black dusts collected out of Jikryung for official dress. The composition and status of the fiber were clarified by means of Microscopic FT-IR and both cross sectioanl and side parts of the fiber were observed using the technique of scanning electron microscopy(SEM). Finally EDS analysis was carried out to qualitatively analyze inorganic ingredients contained in the carbonized fiber. As a result of FT-IR measurement, characteristic peak was very strong around $1625cm^{-1}$ and could be found even between 2500 and $2300cm^{-1}$ because of a high-molecule pigmental substance, melanine. When SEM photography was applied to the fractions, the tissues were identified as silk fiborine through the observation of their side and cross sectional parts. SEM-EDS measurement indicated that both the cotton skirt and Jikryung for official dress contained a high proportion of inorganic substances such as Si, Ca suggesting the existence of silicide and calcium carbonate.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2020

Six ornamental metal quiver fittings were excavated from stone chamber No.1 of the ancient tombs of Jeongchon, Bokam-ri, Naju. The ornamental quiver fittings are metal, but the body of the quiver was made of organic material, so that it corroded and disappeared in the burial environment. The ornamental metal quiver fittings were made in pairs, and decorated one quiver according to the location they were found in and their forms. The ornamental metal quiver fitting can be divided into two types: A band style ornament (帶輪狀金具) which decorates the arrow pouch, and a board style ornament (板狀金具) which decorates the board connecting the waist belt. Two ornamental metal quiver fittings excavated from wooden coffin 2 of stone chamber No.1, were made in the band style, while the ornamental metal quiver fittings from southeast of stone chamber No.1 were identified as two boardstyle ornaments and two band-style ornaments for what was presumed to be belt loops. Material analysis of the ornamental metal quiver fittings shows that they are made of a gilt bronze plate attached to an iron plate, and the surface is marked with a speck of chisel to make lines and patterns. Chemical composition analysis (XRF) established that 24~40wt% Au and 50~93wt% Cu were detected on the gold surface, and it was confirmed that bronze corrosion had taken place on the gilt surface. SEM-EDS analysis of the gold plating layer identified a working line for glossing, and 7~9wt% Hg and an amalgam of gilt layers was detected, confirming the amalgam gilding. CT and FT-IR analysis established that the band style was double-layered with silk fabric under the iron plate, and there was also a lacquer piece underneath. The band-style ornaments have two layers of silk under the iron plate, along with lacquer pieces. Adding the fabric to the arrow pouch increases adhesion and decorative value. It is assumed that the lacquer pieces indicate that the surface of the lacquered arrow pouch had fallen together with the ornaments. On the other hand, the board-style ornaments have a thick layer of organic matter under the iron plate, but this is difficult to identify and appears to be a remnant of the quiver board. The characteristics of these ornamental metal quiver fittings were similar in Baekje, Silla, and Gaya cultures from the late 4th to the late 5th centuries, and enable us to identify the art of ancient gold craftwork at that time.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.39
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• pp.243-280
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• 2006

At the Bujang-ri Site, Seosan, South Chungcheong Province, around 220 archaeological features, including semi-subterranean houses and pits of Bronze Age and semi-subterranean houses, pits, and burials of Baekje period had been identified and investigated. In Particular, mound burials No. 5 of 13 of Baekje mound burials yielding a gilt-bronze cap along with other valuable artifacts drew international scholarly attention. The gilt-bronze cap from the mound burial No. 5 is a significant archaeological data not only in the study of Baekje archaeology but also in the study of international affairs and exchange at that time. At the time of exposure, the gilt-bronze cap was already broken into a number of pieces and seriously damaged by corrosion, and hardening and urethane foam were necessary in the process of collecting its pieces. Ahead of main conservational treatments on cap, X-ray photograph and CT(computerizes tomography) were taken in order to examine interior structure of the cap and to decide appropriate treatments. In the five layers identified in the profile of cap, a textile layer was set between a metal and a layerof bark of paper birch for avoiding direct contact of the metal and the bark of paper birch. Analyses were executed for examining textile layer and a layer of fibroid material. According to microscopic analysis, while the textile layer consisted of the simplest plain fabric with one fold among three kinds of textile structures, the layer of fibroid material was mixed with two or three kinds of fibers. A comparative analysis with standard sample using FT-IR (Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy) announced that both textiles and fabrics were hemp. Analysis of kind of the paper birch resulted in barks of paper birch with 15 fold. A metallographic microscope, SEM, and WDS were used for the analysis of microscopic structures of plated metal pieces. While amalgam plating was treated as a plating method, the thickness of the plated layer, a barometer of plating technique, was ranged from $1.72{\mu}m$ to $8.67{\mu}m$. The degree of purity of gold (Au) used in plating was 98% in average, and less than 1% of silver (Ag) was included.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1653-1661
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• 2007

The research aimed to establish the standard extraction procedure for examining brazilin, the major chromophoric substance of Sappanwood, using GC-MS with the ultimate goal of identifying the sappanwood dye in severely faded archaeological textiles. The amount of brazilin represented by the GC abundance was the largest when acetone was used as the extraction medium, followed by methanol. Shaking plate operated at room temperature was more effective than the waterbath shaker which was operated at $30^{\circ}C$. In both cases, the extraction method which incorporated one hour pre-soaking before the 12 hours of actual extraction resulted in a larger amount of brazilin detection than the extraction procedure without the one hour pre-soaking. In case of water extraction, pH 5 resulted in the most effective pH level for the extraction of brazilin, The best GC-MS parameter for detecting brazilin was to set the column temperature initially at $50^{\circ}C$. gradually increase to $210^{\circ}C$ at a $23^{\circ}C/min$ rate, finally increase to $305^{\circ}C$ at $30^{\circ}C/min$ rate, and hold for 14 minutes, and the MSD scan range at $75{\sim}400m/z$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to compare the efficiency of four different cleaning method of silk and to fabrics, which were excavated from the sixteenth century tombs. The four cleaning methods were hand washing in water and hand washing in solvent, washing in ultrasonic cleaner, and using of ultrasonic gun after washing in ultrasonic cleaner. The following is the result of the experiment: ㆍBoth silk and jute fabrics shrank the most after hand-wash in water. This cleaning method decreased their thickness the most but changed their strength the least. However, the color of the fabric changed the most after had-wash in water. This washing method might discolor the dyed fabric, so one must check the condition of the fabric thoroughly before washing it. ㆍThe weight and the thickness of the fabric changed little after ultrasonic cleaning. This cleaning method, therefore. is less efficient than hand-water-wash. The use of ultrasonic gun after ultrasonic wash for partial cleansing enhanced the efficiency a little. Nevertheless, this method left stain around the area where the gun was used, and the injected water could damage the fabric. ㆍThe excavated fabric became softer in the cleaning process as the dirt was washed away. In both cases of silk and jute fabrics cleaning, solvent made the fabric softer than water. Washed in solvent, the fabric did not swell. But water penetrated to the fiber during the cleaning process and made the fabric swell. When the water evaporates, the swollen fiber structure collapses and the fabric become stiff. Ultrasonic wash did not cause much change in the flexibility of the fabric, for this method does not remove the dirt as effectively as the other method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1315-1324
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• 2009

This study is on the consolidation process of the conservation process of fabric with golden thread found in relics. Gold film was glued to pieces of Korean paper and satin using hide glue, which is a natural adhesive and resin Paraloid B-72, which is a liquid type adhesive. This study examines the types and concentration of the adhesives that are appropriate for consolidating gold film on fabric. The advantage of hide glue is that it is harmless to humans and has a high stability. This glue is also believed to be the closest to the adhesive that was used when the relic was originally made. Its weakness is that it is stiff and weaker than chemical glues, but after being washed with water the adhesion level increases. Therefore, hide glue is appropriate in the following instances: a) when washing after consolidation b) when the substrate of gold threads are significantly damaged, and c) when treating greater sized relics that take a longer time to work on. However, Paraloid B-72 has a better adhesion and flexibility than hide glue, but tends to spread out into a greater area, and the area where it is applied tends to absorb less water than before the application. In addition, it is noxious and can be harmful in long-term exposure. Therefore, Paraloid-72 is appropriate in the following instances: a) when consolidating the fabric after washing, and b) when working on smaller relics and consolidating smaller parts of a relic. The necessary concentration levels for consolidants for gold film are 30% for liquid type hide glue and at least 10% for Paraloid B-72 in order for the gold film to stay intact on the fabric during washing, consolidation, exhibition, and conservation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.10
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2011

This research compares the change in berberine content in liquid dye and the color and dye uptake of amur cork tree dyed silk upon thermal degradation treatment. Thermal degradation of amur cork tree extract and liquid dye of standard berberine was carried out at room temperature, $4^{\circ}C$ refrigeration, and $100^{\circ}C$ oven conditions for 0-192 hours. Amur cork tree dyed silk was treated in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven for 0-240 hours. The berberine content in liquid dye was measured by the relative abundance of the berberine peak in the HPLC-MS chromatograms. The color and dye uptake of dyed silk was measured using K/S value and colorimetric data. The berberine content in standard berberine dye was 2.4 times that of the amur cork tree extract. A similar result was observed between the K/S value of standard berberine dyed silk and that of amur cork tree dyed silk. The berberine dyed silk showed the highest dye uptake after 120 hours in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven. This result was similar to the change in a berberine content in liquid dye in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven treatment. The change of the K/S value of amur cork tree dyed silk and berberine content of amur cork tree extract was similar up to 24 hours. The result suggests that there is a direct relationship between the color change of amur cork tree dyed silk and the berberine content in amur cork tree dye.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.299-303
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• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.3
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• pp.29-36
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• 2001

The hat excavated from the tomb of Hojeo-myon Wonsung-gun in Kangwon province was dry-cleaned and restored. The hat was made of wool felt and decorated with several strands of silk cord. It was very dirty and moth-eaten. After getting rid of the particle soils on a surface with painting brush, the hat was dry-cleaned using perchloroethylene applying the minimum force, and blotting paper was used for drying. During cleaning, it was supported by the stainless steel net. The weight loss was 7.94% after cleaning. The soils sticked on the hat was removed clearly. The texture of the hat became softer after cleaning. Color difference(∆E) was 2.57, which is a noticeable change. The color became clear and changed to the red and yellow range. After dry-cleaning, the hat was repaired. Dislocated silk cords were fixed to the right place by stitching with silk yarn. To keep the shape of the hat, it should be supported by a hat-shaped stiff net during exibition and storing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2007

As Backje(B.C. 18-A.D. 600) is the whole area of Chungcheong, Jeonra, Kangwon and Gyeongsang provinces, the son of the founder of Goguryeo, King Onjoe, making the castle Wu'irae capital of the nation, founded Backje. The capital was transferred to Hansung by B.C. 5 and then to Gongju by A.D. 475. Backje governed the east of China and the northeastern coast. Due to the effect of Chinese culture there are remarkably Chinese cultural elements in dress and its ornament of Baekje. Therefore on the side of cultural part, the noble culture was formed more polished than that of Goguryeo, which affected the culture of dress and ornament. And also there were class differentiation noticeably. Baekje created splendid culture and affected the culture development of Shinra and Japan. The motive of culture creation could be the top of three countries in the foreign trade because there were geographically the widest vast plain and coastline which stretches out from north to south. Although there haven't been many materials about the cultural heritage and records more than other countries, through the modern visual point its design is fresh and more elegant those of other countries. But the fact is that there are few materials related to Baekje. What is worse, there rarely remains all original form and most of them are broken and lost. According1y, we cannot understand not only an original form of Baekje culture and but also the meaning included in it. It goes without saying that there are few materials about the clothes and fabrics. As understanding the culture of Baekje itself is insufficient, a culture enterprise utilizing it - to improve both the added value and economical achievement while combining the latest culture resources with other fields - hasn't been successful. In this study, the purpose is to improve economic power through commercialization and industrialization of the sources of the culture of Baekje. By reanalyzing a form and an image of Baekje relics, it is designed with new motif and modem preference on the condition of our peculiar cultural heritage. And while using this motif with Jacquard pattern, we made it possible to be applied to real life such as interior trinkets, etc.