• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.11-28
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• 1992

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.5-14
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• 2001

Excavated costumes at the women's tomb in 17C have been sustained good condition. These materials give us that Jang ui(長衣) and so chang ui(소창의) with chechori(유), skirt, trousers(袴) reflects on women's fashion style at that time. By seeing these costumes, we can get the characteristics of costumes in mid-chosun era with chechori, skirt, jang ui, so chang ui etc. The features of chechori in this area are follows : form - diagonal gil, collar - kalkit and tangkokit, length - about 50cm, materials - silk, cotton, grass-cloth, kind - single, double. clothing padded with cotton wool etc. It is the first time that chang ui, one of Po, is excavated in this area. There are three pieces of jang ui which is significant data to study deeply on the costume in 1700's. Jang ui mainly made of silk in pattern, silk, cotton and decorated stylish printing on the robes. With these material and style, we can induce the mode of mid-chosun period. Through comparative studying we have many chances to understand women's the garment for the dead(염습의) in mid-chosun period.

• KOMUNHWA
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• no.52
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• pp.107-122
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• 1998

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.23-31
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• 2003

The Purpose of this study was to isolate and identify fungi found in excavated clothes dating on the 16th century. As a result of microscoping with LPCB staining, seven isolated strains were classified-Acremonium strictum, Acremonium kiliense, Fonsecaea sp., Candida sp., Trichoderma sp., Cladosporium spp., Penicillium spp.. In the process of isolation and identification of fungi by the sort of textile, more fungi were found in cotton, cotton batt and silk than in ramie and hemp, suggesting that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the Comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of fungi in washed samples. In the cellulase activity test, Acremonium kiliense had the highest level cellulase activity, suggesting that Acremonium killiense has an important Influence on damage of textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.65-78
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• 2013

This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2004.04a
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• pp.109-112
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• 2004

본 연구를 위해 첫째 실제 출토된 여러 복식 유물을 대상으로 일반적인 보존 처리를 시행한 후 M.B.와 E.O.의 혼합가스에 의한 훈증처리를 실시하였다. 둘째, 훈증처리를 실시한 유물과 훈증처리를 실시하지 않은 유물의 강도의 변화를 비교 조사하였다. 셋째, 공조시설이 서로 다른 2개의 박물관을 선정하여 훈증 시료와 미훈증 시료를 전시 보관하여 환경 조건과 시간의 경과에 따른 강도의 변화를 비교 조사하였다. (중략)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.591-598
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• 2004

This study examines the effects and influences of fumigation using chemical composite of Methyl Bromide and Ethylene Oxide on the change of strength of excavated dresses. The fabric strength immediately after washing and fumigation increased slightly, but it decreased greatly as the time progressed. The strength of the test sample from Museum A showed a steady decrease with time, while that of Museum B decreased rapidly 5 months later. Compared with the non-fumigated sample, fumigated sample was greater in strength regardless of the time progression, and the strength of sample kept in the exhibit hall was greater than that kept in the storage room. The strength of the fumigated sample was almost same regardless of the three different time periods, before washing, after washing and immediately after fumigation, and it decreased steadily with time, whereas the non-fumigated sample became much weaker in its strength in 10 months after washing. Even 5 months later, the fumigated sample was about as strong as immediately after fumigation, but the strength dropped to a great extent 10 months later.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.902-912
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• 2003

The purpose of this research was two-folds; first, to investigate the type of soil contaminated in the Hunsang excavated from the Milchang-gun burial of Mapo for the purpose of proposing the adequate washing method, second, to utilize the chemical degradation result obtained from the previous research to identify the natural dye source used in the Hunsang textile. The application of KS K0251 test showed that the soil was more oleophilic than hydrophilic thus indicating that wet cleaning was more adequate that dry cleaning for the removal of Hunsang soil. The GC-MS result of the Hunsang extraction showed dimethyl phthalate and 2,4-di-tert-butylphenol as its degradation product and these coincided with the degradation products from the alizarin standard data of previous research. The comparison of the two suggested that it is likely that Hunsang was dyed with madder which has alizarin as its major chromophore.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.13
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• pp.37-44
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• 2012

White crystals on 46 costumes excavated from Shim Su-Ryun(1534 - 1589)'s tomb were examined their characterization and distribution. In 36 of such samples, white crystals with different shape and hardness were found. The formation of crystals did not correlated with a kind and use of textiles. However, crystals were found in the back side than the front of costume, specially around the marks of shrouding dead body. White crystals from 7 textiles were investigated by EPMA, XRD, or FT-IR. The composition of white crystal was analysed by EPMA and the structure characterization of crystals was used by X-ray diffraction. FT-IR spectroscopy was applied to check if non-crystalline compounds were also present. Mg and P were detected as the main element of white crystals and these compounds were identified a struvite and newberyite, the inorganic mineral magnesium ammonium phosphates. Struvite precipitation are influenced by many factors including concentration of Mg²⁺, NH₄⁺, and PO₄^3- ions, pH, and temperatures. It is assumed that magnesium, phosphorous, ammonia, a base material of struvite comes from decomposition product of human body. Tomb covered with lime, a unique triple-structure in Joseon period offering the basic condition, an anaerobe in a coffin, and high magnesium concentration of outer coffin with lime can be inferred as important factor for precipitation of crystals.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.151-168
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• 1999

A Study on a Woman's Shrouds in Middle of the 16 Century based on the excavation of the Mrs. Moon's grave in Andong is reported in this paper. As a result of the study the followings are obtained: 1. From the architecture and costume in the Mrs. Moon's grave we can conclude that Confucian funeral rites were already established in Andong region of the 16th century. 2. The articles used for funeral rites can be classified as Bujangpum(副葬品) Chikwanjeku(治棺諸具) Bokongpoom(補空品), and Yumsupku(斂솝具) and costumes for the death wrapping can be especially classified as Yumsupeui(斂섭衣) 3. Total 63 remains were excavated from the Mrs. Moon's grave. Among them 3 Chikwanjeku 19 Daeryumku(大斂具) 12 Soryumku(小斂具) and 29 Supku(섭具) Yumsup procedure was performed with great care Shrouds were the casual cloths and only Sangbok were made for the ritual Several Sooeui were found. 4. Pricedyak characteristics of Yumsup include unusual direction of wrap the meaning of Boolryu and unusual Chingsoo of used clothes. 5. There were 41 costumes in : Coats were Sangbok and Jangot upper cloths were long jacket and short jacket Danjukori Jeoksam and Hansam Each of the trousers and the skirts were two different kinds by the form The pair of Hangjeon socks shoes and a cap found in this grave were also studied.