• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2005년도 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.56-56
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• 2005

• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.131-141
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shapes and transformation of costumes of Ching's and Mongolian. Mongolian traditional costumes are trousers and jacket, with Deel(袍) and Terlig(帖裡) pleated in the waistline, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike. It was designed for adapting to horse riding activities and cold steppe climate. Similarity between Ching's and Mongolian nomadic costumes was used as a means of unity by Ching. Transformation of Mongolian nomadic costumes are further divided into three kinds; Ching's or Russian's details applied to Mongolian nomadic costumes(Taekeum(大襟), Majesu(馬蹄袖), white choker), Ching's court costume imported as it is for the political purpose(Kijang(기장)), resistance against foreign countries and the spirit of nomadic people and independence reflected in Mongol costumes('Teregur ushi', 'Correct bosom'). Specially, Nomadic symbols constitute Mongolian spiritual world and clothing habits, especially evident in ladies' dresses.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.269-276
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• 1978

This thesis studied the costumes of Gwan-Rye(관예). the lowest ranking officials of Yi-Dynasty. It researched the written materials and compared it with relics of Gwan-Rye costumes. The gists of the result are; 1) The Koryo tradition of Gwan-Rye costumes continued until the early days of Yi-Dynasty. 2) The Gwan-Rye costumes can be classified into two styles. One is Sa-Ryung(사영) style, which consisted of Dan-Ryung(단령) robe and Jo-Geon(조시) as head gear. Na-Jang(라장) style. the another, consisted of Dan-Ryung. Ban-Bi-Ui(반비의) and Jo-Geon. 3) These styles changed around the days of Yeon-San(연산), the 10th King of the Dynasty. The Na-Jang of later days wore Cheop-Ri(첩리) robe instead of Dan-Ryung. And the Sa-Ryung costume was devided into three different styles. They are (1) Gat(립)- Cheop-Ri (2) Bung-Geo-Ji(단립)-Chang-Ui(창의) (3) Gat- Kwoe-Ja(쾌자) styles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권7호
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• pp.1035-1043
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• 2000

This paper studied the excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek that had been found in Kwangju metropolitan city in 1986. The excavated costumes mainly show Po(포) including Chopni(첩리), Dapho(답호), Danryung(단령), Jikryung (직령). In addition, there are some kinds of trousers, hat, korean socks. The meanings of excavated costumes of the Go's of Jang Taek are the followings: 1. They offer the important research materials to studying of general dress. 2. They offer actual proof materials of 15-16 century in opposition to depending on documentary records. 3. They offer the useful informations on the form, textile, dyeing because of good condition. 4. They offer the variety of Po that many persons weared at that times. 5. They offer the practical and rational construction by folding pleats and needlework. 6. They did not quilted padded clothes in comparison with other dress at that times. 7. They offer the important materials on the trousers. In the near future, we will study excavated costumes on dyeing, textile structure, trousers formation and so on.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.79-93
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• 2005

'Chunhyangjeon' was written by an anonymous author in the mid-period of Chosun Dynasty. The personalities of characters and the styles of dress of men in 'Chunhyangjeon' recreated their clothing to one that is more similar to the descriptions in the literature text can be described as follows. Lee, Mongyong was a young man, but he was a man of integrity and honor. In outwear he wore 'Hat(Heulip)' and 'Dopo' and Taesahae. When he earned his title, he wore 'Pokdu' with flowers and 'Angsam(ceremonial robe)'. After he became a secret royal inspector, in order to disguised on himself as a poor man he wore worn-out 'Heuklip' and 'Dopo' and Jipsin. Bangja who was a servant of Lee, Mongyong wore 'Beonggeoji' and 'Kwaeja' and 'Mituli'. Byun, Hacdo was a rash and greedy character, he wore 'Oklolip' and 'Cheopli' and 'mokhwa' when he was on the way to his post. Yeokjol was low grade official wore 'Jeonlip' and 'Cheopli' and 'Red shoulder band' and 'Mituli'.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.389-400
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• 1997

Name and change of style of Chopni were inspected to understand transformation of Chosun costume. During Chosun era Chopni had two significant roles(general) daily clothes and Yungbok; prior to the mid-Chosun it was largely used as daily clothes but after the mid-Chosun it was mainly used as Yungbok, In the case of daily clothes Chopni was utilized as under-coat among various coats and had the name of Chopni symbolizing function of clothes. In the case of YUNGBOK it was used as outer clothing of military men had the name of Cholik symbolizing form of clothes. These facts represent that emphasis was placed on beauty in the case of YUNGBOK to confer ceremonial meaning as outer clothes. In transformation of costume examining by change of Chopni we can see that name and style are changed with role of clothes That is when clothes is used as under such as under-coat name and style mainly represent function whereas they mainly represent beauty when used as outer clothes such as YUNGBOK In addition change of role might be considered as an independent variable which changed name and style dependently. That is change of style produced change of name and time lay between change of style and change of name was found to be about 1 centry.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.109-122
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• 2002

This study is to understand cotton Tyeollik construction of the middle Chosun Period through the reconstruction of tyeoilik which was excavated from lady kim's tomb (from sooncheon). The form of excavated Tyeollik classified into two types by the location of waistline. The structure of excavated tyeollik classified into three types by the construction(one-layer, two-layer, cotton/quilt) The form type change according to the period. The change of the form type has the close relation structure type in the tyeollik. Cotton-tyeollik belongs to the form of the front time. The construction of cotton tyeollik is similar with the one-layer Tyeollik Exception the construction of git(collar) and the size and direction of the fold. The surface pattern is composed of two-pieces but the liner is one-piece in the Git(collar). and In The size of fold surface is o.2-o.3cm, and liner is 0.5-0.8cm. The direction of fold in the liner is the contrast with the surface.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.527-537
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• 1996

This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breast- ties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.