• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2004.04a
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• pp.179-186
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the developemnt could be easily neglected.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.343-351
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• 2012

In this study, shallow-water design waves are calculated for the return period of 10, 20, 30, and 50 years, based on the extreme value analysis of the wave measurement data at Gangneung beach. These values are compared with the results of SWAN simulation with the boundary condition of the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods at the Gangneung sea area provided by the Fisheries Agency (FA, 1988) and Korea Ocean Research & Development Institute (KORDI, 2005). It is found that the shallow-water wave heights at Gangneung beach calculated by the deep-water design waves were significantly less than the observation data. As the return period becomes higher, the significant wave heights obtained by the extreme value analysis becomes higher than those computed by SWAN with the deep-water design waves of the corresponding return periods. KORDI computed the hindcast wave data from January 2004 to August 2008 by WAM with a finer-grid mesh system than those of previous studies. Comparisons of the wave hindcast results with the wave observation show that the reproducibility of the winter-season storm wave was considerably improved compared to the hindcast data from 1979 to 2003. Hereafter, it is necessary to carry out hindcast wave data for the years before 2004 using WAM with the finer-grid mesh system and to supplement the deep-water design wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.177-187
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• 2022

This study estimates the design wave in the event of a typhoon attack at Busan new port using the wind field, the revised shallow water design wave estimation method proposed by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries in 2020, and proposed a reliable method of calculating the shallow water design through verification with the wave observation data. As a result of estimating typhoon wave using the wind field and SWAN numerical model, which are commonly used in the field work, for typhoon that affected Busan new port, it was found that reproducibility was not good except typhoons KONG-REY(1825) and MAYSAK(2009). In particular, in the case of typhoon MAEMI(0314), which had the greatest impact on Busan new port, the maximum significant wave height was estimated to be about 35.0% smaller than that of the observed wave data. Therefore, a plan to improve the reproducibility of typhoon wave was reviewed by applying the method of correcting the wind field and the method of using the Boussinesq equation numerical model, respectively. As a result of the review, it was found that the reproducibility of the wind field was not good as before when the wind field correction. However as a method of linking wind field data, SWAN model results, and Boussinesq numerical model, typhoon wave was estimated during typhoon MAEMI(0314), and the maximum significant wave was similar to the wave observations, so it was reviewed to have good reproducibility.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 1989

A simple numerical refraction model is presented. The model takes into account refraction, shoaling and bottom dissipation. Eikonal equation and equation of energy conservation are discretized by an explicit finite-difference method, which provides wave angle and height at each grid point, respectively. Applications of the model were made to simple geometries as well as complex geometries, and some advantages on computing time and stability have been observed.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2009.10a
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• pp.77-80
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• 2009

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.350-360
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• 2016

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.188-196
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• 2009

This study conducted numerical simulations to analyze the wave characteristics(distribution) depending on the directional changes of waves in the Nakdong river estuary by using SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore) model. The results from the tests are summarized as below. The wave height rates are generally highly distributed with the incident waves from the S, SSE, SSW, SE, SW in sequence. When the waves from the S, SSW, SSE directions are predominant, the bigger waves were observed in front of sandbars. According to the results of the wave steepness against the wave direction, at the east coast of Gadeok island(northwest of Nakdong estuary), where has mild seabed slopes, the wave height rates distribute in the range of 0.4~0.6; the wave height rates over the west coastal region of Dadeapo(southeast of Nakdong estuary) are 0.5~0.6. The wave height rate tends to be rapidly decreased over the east region of Nakdong river estuary rather than its west region.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.126-132
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• 2010

An approach to calculating expected damage of breakwater assisted by artificial neural network was developed. Wave height in front of a breakwater was predicted by a trained artificial neural network with inputs of wave height in deep ocean and tidal level. Prediction results by the neural network can be comparable to that by professional numerical model for wave transformation. Using the wave prediction neural network, it was very easy and fast to obtain a number of significant waves at breakwater and finally analysis time for expected damage can be shortened. In addition, the effect of considering tidal level in the calculation of expected damage was revealed by comparing the expected damages with and without tidal variation. Therefore, it was pointed out that tidal variation should be considered to improve prediction accuracy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.236-245
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• 1996

A wave prediction model is used to estimate the wave spectrum at Ulsan Bay. The Wave model includes the refraction of wave rays according to water depth changes in transient and shallow waters. The calculation of wave refraction is performed from three wave directions : east, southeast and south. Three target locations are selected and the wave spectrum at each location is computed for several uniform wind speeds and directions. The computation results of wave spectrum are compared with PNJ(Pierson, Newmann and James) nomogram and Bretschneider nomogram as well. The model could be used in selection of proper harbor site and in construction of coastal facilities, providing fundamental data in design.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.49-59
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• 2000

Wave distribution in Jangjeon Harbour is numerically simulated for an optimum design of the harbour facilities. A deep-water design wave is estimated based on stochastic extreme wave analysis of wind data in the vicinity of the harbour, and it is applied to the boundary condition at open sea. Boussinesq wave theory that includes effects of frequency dispersion and nonlinearity is employed for the wave simulation. The porosity and sponge layer are adapted at beach to depict partial reflection and complete absorption of waves, respectively. The design wave for breakwater is computed in global domain with coarse grids and the wave distribution inside of wharf is simulated in local domain with fine grids.