• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.775-783
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• 2010

This study examines the dyeability, light fastness, washing fastness, and the antibacterial activity of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics dyed with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn. The results show that an increase in the chitosan and nano silver percentage resulted in an increase in the $a^*$ values and $b^*$ values; however, the $L^*$ values decreased in the undyed condition. ${\Delta}E$ values of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics were higher than cotton 100% non-woven fabrics in the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, and mordant treatments influenced the chrominance change. In the dyed condition with an extracted solution from Chrysanthemum Indicum Linn, an increase in the percentage of chitosan and nano silver resulted in an increase of the K/S values. The dyeability of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics increased by mordant treatments. The light fastness and washing fastness of the mordanted non-woven fabrics were better than the non-mordanted. For the antibacterial activity, the bacterial reduction rate of chitosan and nano silver composite non-woven fabrics was 99.9% to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.431-440
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• 2016

The purpose of this research is to revive the colors of combination dyeing and mixed dyeing with natural dyestuffs. The fabrics used were cotton and rayon. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were indigo, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. The effects of combination dyeing were as follows. First, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, while the surface K/S of cotton was over 15, that of rayon was over 17. Third, the results of the light fastness measurement showed the superiority (by over grade 4) of all the samples, except in the case of rayon fiber sample no. 6 (which had been pre-dyed with indigo five times before being dyed with P. amurense once and then being dyed with C. sappan once). In the color fastness to washing measurement, all fibers showed superiority (by over grade 3~4). In addition, the color fastness to dry cleaning of all fibers was satisfactory or excellent (by over grade 3). Fourth, according to the results of the tensile strength measurement, it tended to decrease in the case of cotton and increase in the case of rayon. Fifth, the results of the density measurement showed that the density of cotton decreased by about 15~20% in the case of warp and 10% in the case of weft for all samples. The density of rayon decreased 20% in the case of warp for all samples and increased 30% in the case of weft for all samples.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.100-111
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• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.87-97
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• 2022

This study investigated the dyeability and color change of the natural dyes of SeaCell, a biodegradable functional fiber that is permanently added to cellulose fibers with natural additives extracted from seaweeds. The natural dyes used in the study are five dyes. Gardenia and turmeric, which are yellow-based natural dyes, Sappan wood and Lac, which are red-based natural dyes, and Indigo, a blue-based natural dye, were selected. The dyeability and color change according to the change of the mordant conditions and the number of times of dyeing were investigated. In addition, the dyeing properties and colors of cotton and silk fibers were compared under the same dyeing conditions as SeaCell. The study results are as follows. It was found that SeaCell had lower dyeing properties than silk, a protein fiber, in gardenia, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but had higher dyeing properties than cotton with the same cellulose component as SeaCell fibers. In the case of turmeric, it showed higher dyeing properties than cotton except for the no mordant condition. In the case of Indigo dye, SeaCell shows the best dyeability, indicating that it is a very suitable fiber for Indigo dyeing. As sustainable functional fibers are continuously developed in the future, natural dyes that are environmentally friendly and human-friendly are actively introduced and commercialized, and it is expected that they can be used as reference materials.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.161-172
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• 2023

In this study, natural dyeing using Polygonum tinctoria was performed with linen, ramie, and hemp, which are biodegradable cellulose fibers, considering environmental aspects. In particular, the impacts of alkali NaOH and reducing agent Na₂S₂O₄ were examined, and the possibilities of minimizing the use and reusing the dye were explored. The surface dye concentrations were found to be in the following order: hemp>linen>ramie. With the increase in all additives, the L^* value decreased, and the ⊿E and K/S values increased gradually. When Na₂S₂O₄ was 1g/L, the surface color of the dye appeared uniformly from the NaOH concentration of 0.4g/L (pH 10.84). When NaOH was 0.4g/L, the K/S values of linen and ramie increased rapidly after 0.4g/L of Na₂S₂O₄, and hemp maintained a stable color from 0.6g/L of Na₂S₂O₄. With the increase in the dye concentration from 1 to 6g/L, all the fibers were dyed uniformly. The K/S value increased or higher doubled upon repeated dyeing six times for 5 min than when dyed only once for 30 min. Therefore, the linen, ramie, and hemp fibers dyed repeatedly exhibited good washing, rubbing, and colorfastness to perspiration, which was rated between 4 and 4-5, and that to light was rated as 5. Moreover, no discoloration due to sunlight was observed. Finally, linen exhibited a bacterial reduction of 99.9%, thereby indicating its excellent antibacterial property.

• 한국자원식물학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국자원식물학회 2023년도 임시총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.48-48
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• 2023

지역의 역사성을 지니고 발전한 전통색은 지역 문화와 자연환경에 영향을 받는다. 전통색은 일반적으로 관용색명으로 표현하는데, 이는 세계인의 공용어가 아니므로 우리의 천연염색을 국내외 일반인과 공유하기 위해서는 표준화된 색명(KS-계열색, RGB, CMYK)을 사용하는 것이 필요하다. 우리나라에서 염료재로 활용된 염료식물은 393종으로 알려져 있다. 본 연구에서는 염료식물의 자원 활용과 그 보전적 가치를 알리고자 염료식물을 언급한 고문서 및 현대자료를 바탕으로 사용 부위, 매염제의 종류, 염색 시 발현 색상의 관용색명을 조사하였고, 이를 국가표준색상환에 대입하여 표준화에 대한 방향성을 제시하고자 한다. 연구 결과에 따르면, 염료식물 393종 중 관용색명을 가진 염료식물은 312종이었고, 관용색명의 정보가 없는 식물은 81종으로 나타났다. 염료식물의 사용 부위 정보를 가진 식물은 187종이었고, 이용부위는 식물체 전체(전초), 뿌리, 줄기(껍질), 줄기(심재), 나뭇가지, 잎, 열매(껍질), 꽃이었다. 염료식물에 활용되는 매염재는 15가지(천연 6종, 화학 9종)로 나타났다. 관용색명을 가진 염료식물 312종에서 조사된 540개 관용색명을 표준화 시키기 위하여 국가표준색상환에 대입한 결과, 표준화된 색명(KS계통색명, RGB, CMYK)을 갖는 식물은 127종, 관용색명은 있지만 표준화된 색명을 확인할 수 없는 식물은 185종인 것으로 나타났다. 향후 염료식물을 연구하는데 있어서 관용색명의 정보가 없는 염료식물에 대한 표준화된 색명을 찾아내는 연구가 이루어져야 할 것이다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.101-109
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to investigate the characteristics of natural indigo dyeing of cotton fabric. Reduction and dyeing were carried out by one-step process using an infrared dyeing machine at the liquor ratio of 1:100, and subsequently oxidation and washing in water were followed. Dye uptake was increased with the increase of indigo concentration. Over the full range of dyeing tests, the dyeing condition was optimized to $40^{\circ}C$ for 40min. For most of dye concentrations, the cotton fabrics showed mainly PB color. Maximum K/S value was shown at 4g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration and the color strength increased with the increase of dye concentration. Value(lightness) decreased with the increase of dye uptake irrespective of mercerization or reduction method, while the mercerized cotton showed two times higher dye uptake than the untreated cotton. Whereas hue of the untreated cotton showed large decrease of P character(5.6~3.5 PB) with the increase of dye uptake, that of the mercerized cotton increased P character(4.7~5.5 PB). Irrespective of mercerization, value and chroma decreased with the increased of dye uptake. In addition, the untreated showed lower chroma than the mercerized cotton. In the case of traditional reduction, hue of the untreated cotton was changed very little with the increase of dye uptake. For hydrosulfite reduction, P character decreased with the increase of dye uptake. The difference of hue value was small with the change of reduction method(hydrosulfite reduction or traditional fermentation). Color character was not influenced by the changed maximum absorption wavelength. Washing fastness showed 4~4/5 shade change rating without any staining. And dry rubbing fastness was good at low color strength. The bacterial reduction ratios of dyed cotton fabric were also increased.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.359-370
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• 2011

This study analyzes the textiles design of natural indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan. In this study, a total of 556 Korean natural indigo dyed products, and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products were used for analysis. The subjects of this study were 556 natural indigo dyed products and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products selling natural indigo dyed products which were found using search engine keywords of natural indigo dyeing and natural dyeing. Research and analysis was treated regarding the products, items, patterns, and the representation techniques of the patterns. The results of this study are as follows. In the pattern used for natural indigo dyed products, 71.4% of Korean products have no pattern, but 77.1% of Japanese products have patterns. On the representation techniques of the patterns, Korean products used tie-dyeing and a dip patterned fabric. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterning techniques were paraffin dye, followed by tie-dyeing, yarn-dyed and weaving, screen printing, and yarn-dyed and knitting. Regarding the kinds of patterns for natural indigo dyed products, only 8 kinds of patterns were used in Korean products; however, over 50 kinds of various patterns were used in Japanese products. Most patterns in the Korean products were ion patterns made by tie-dyeing. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterns were stripe patterns, followed by flower, dot, and ion patterns. Based on these research results, the problems of the textile design of Korean natural indigo dyed products were that most of the products have no pattern, and even though there were patterns, they lacked variations between the products. While in the case of Japan, they used the traditional and modem patterns of various textile representation techniques.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.