• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.65-65
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• 2011

천연염색에 대한 관심이 높아지고 있지만 색상의 재현성, 견뢰도의 취약성, 디자인의 제한성의 문제로 실용화의 한계에 부딪히고 있다. 이를 극복하기 위하여 본 연구는 침염 위주의 천연 염색에서 벗어나 키토산을 바인더로 이용하는 날염의 유효성을 검토하고자 한다. 본 연구에서는 키토산을 바인더로 이용한 방법을 제시하고자 키토산과 광물성, 동 식물성 안료를 혼합하여 날염호를 조제하여 날염하였다. 키토산의 점도와 농도, 키토산을 이용한 바인더와 안료의 비율 등을 변화시키고 날염직물의 색상과 염착량, 세탁 일광 마찰 견뢰도를 측정하여 적정조건을 도출하였다. 기존의 합성바인더와 구아검을 사용한 경우의 색상, 염착량, 견뢰도와 비교하여 키토산 날염 바인더로서의 유효성을 검토하였다. 키토산을 바인더로 이용한 날염방법에서 적정 점도는 저 중점도, 농도는 1.7%정도가 적절한 것으로 판단하였다. 날염호 제조시 안료의 비율을 증가시켜 진한 색상을 얻을 수 있었으며, 그 비율은 광물성 안료의 경우 1:4, 동 식물성 안료의 경우 1:10까지 변화시켜 명도의 차이를 나타낼 수 있다. 실험결과를 바탕으로 적정조건에서 날염한 직물의 견뢰도를 평가한 결과, 광물성 안료의 경우 4등급 이상, 동 식물성 안료의 경우 3등급 이상으로 우수하게 평가되었다. 안료의 비율이 높아지면 마찰 견뢰도는 감소하였다. 키토산, 구아검, 합성바인더의 색상과 견뢰도를 비교해 본 결과 색상은 동일한 계열로 나타났으며, 키토산을 바인더로 이용한 경우 세탁, 일광, 마찰 견뢰도는 구아검보다 우수하게 평가되었다. 합성바인더의 경우 세탁, 마찰 견뢰도는 비슷하게 나타났으며, 일광견뢰도의 경우 키토산이 더 우수하게 평가되었다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.304-305
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• 2004

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2012.05a
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• pp.124-125
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• 2012

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.3-12
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• 2017

This research was carried out in order to suggest useful data for planning fabrics of summer eco-friendly fashion products. For this purpose, four cellulose fabrics were dyed with natural indigo under three different dyeing conditions, then, their colorimetric properties and color sensibilities were evaluated, and their influences on color preferences were analyzed. All cellulose fabrics naturally dyed with indigo showed the characteristics of PB color tones, middle and low value, and low chroma. Color characteristics were significantly different according to fiber type and dyeing condition. The color sensibilities of the fabrics dyed with indigo were classified into three factors: sporty, classic and natural. These sensibilities showed partially significant differences according to fiber type and dyeing condition. Also, there were partially significant relationships between color characteristics and the color sensibilities of the fabrics dyed with indigo. The color preferences of the dyed fabrics with indigo were found to be influenced by the sporty and classic of color sensibility and $L^*$ of color characteristics.

• Proceedings of the KAIS Fall Conference
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• 2001.05a
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• pp.233-235
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• 2001

실크 생지직물에 대해 정련날염호로 무늬를 인날하고 증열 처리함으로써 무의 부분만 정련이 되도록 하는 정련날염 기술을 개발하여 모시 섬유와 같이 뻣뻣하면서 시원한 질감이 나는 정련되지 않은 생직물 부분과 정련에 의해 유연하고 매끄러우면서 광택이 나는 비단 부분이 동시에 한 직물에 공존하면서 입체적인 무의 표현이 가능한 독특하고 새로운 실크 직물을 개발하였다. 또한 산성염료 둥의 합성염료로 염색된 실크 생지직물과 천연염료로 염색된 실크 생지직물에 대해서 정련날염과 동시에 무의 부분의 바탕색을 빼내고 착색을 고착시키는 발염의 특수날염 기술을 개발하여 다양한 색상에 의한 무늬 표현이 가능하게 함으로써 고부가가치 실크직물을 생산할 수 있도록 되었다.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.93-98
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• 2002

Effect of reducing agent sodium hydrosulfite on the natural indigo on the silk fabrics were examined to improve traditional dyeing method. K/S values of dyed fabrics was monitored with various dyeing temperature time, amount of dye and reducing agent. The dyeability of silk fabrics was improved by using reducing agent, sodium hydrosulfite; K/S value (7.20) was higher then that (1.09) of traditional method at the frist dyeing. Natural indigo dye extracted from dyed silk fabrics are composed of isomer, indigo (67.3%) and indirubin (32.5%). However, silk fabrics showed excellent anti-microbial activity regardless of the dyeing methods.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.175-179
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• 1996

The sappan wood dyeing conditions and mordanting methods suitable for ramie as well as silk were investigated. The HVC values of dyed silk ramie fabrics were varied by the amount of sappan wood in the dyeing bath, while the optimum weight of sappan wood for the extraction of dye was around 15g/l. The K/S value of dyed silk fabric showed no significant difference in the pH range of 3.5 to 6.5. However, the K/S values of dyed ramie fabric was increased proportion to the pH value of dye bath. The K/S value of dyed silk and ramie fabrics were most increased at the highest dyeing temperature in the range of 30 to 9$0^{\circ}C$. By various mordantings, the HVC values of dyed silk and ramie fabrics were differentiated and it's color fastness could be improved.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.403-412
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• 2010

This study was aimed to consider the influence of hue-tone, dyes, and mordants of naturally dyed silk fabric on color sensibility image factors and to establish color sensibility image scales of naturally dyed silk fabric by color and image descriptors. By single or sequential dyeing with various natural dyes commercially available in domestic and foreign market on the same silk fabric, a total of 66 colored fabric stimuli were prepared and they were used to evaluate subjective color sensibility image by 40 participants. As results, four different color sensibility image factors for naturally dyed silk fabric, 'delight', 'natural', 'modern' and 'attractive' were extracted. All of factors were significantly influenced by hue-tone, dyes, and mordants. Furthermore, by using color sensibility image adjectives and colors, multidimensional image scales were established, which leads to the conclusions that the results of this study help to design color sensibility-oriented naturally dyed fabric and apparel products.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.95-96
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• 2007

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.14
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• pp.81-89
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• 2013

This study concerns UV-Vis spectrophotometry and 3D-fluorescence spectrophotometry analysis of textile parts of blue and green tones dyed with indigo of blue tone and turmeric, gardenia, goldthread and amur cork tree of yellow tone. In order to verify whether the kinds of textiles affected analysis result of each dye, silk and cotton textile samples were produced. According to the analysis of the degree of reflection of UV-Vis spectrophotometry, unique reflection spectrum of indigo appeared regardless of the kinds of textiles when they were dyed with indigo. As for textiles of green tone, the 3D-fluorescence spectroscopic analysis result showed that unique spectrums of yellow dyes, turmeric, goldthread and amur cork tree appeared regardless of the kinds of textiles but the fluorescence spectrums of gardenia and indigo did not appear.