• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.33 no.4
• /
• pp.191-201
• /
• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.617-628
• /
• 2001

Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.412-423
• /
• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.6
• /
• pp.702-708
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing-property and antibacterial activity on nylon fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The maximum UV-visible absorption band of cochineal extract was 495 nm. The dyeability on nylon fabric was good because of having a amine group. The optimum dyeing conditions of nylon fabrics are dyeing concentration 1.5%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method is preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one is preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal are mordanting concentration of 0.5%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature $60^{\circ}C$, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Nylon fabrics dyed with cochineal show a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Sn mordanting. MIC test results in antibacterial activities revealed that the antibacterial activity of Cu was the highest among mordants, but Sn mordant was the most effective in antibacterial activities after mordanting treatment of nylon fabric. The fastness properties of dyed nylon fabric showd a little worse or a similar level and there was no significant difference between a mordanted and non-mordanted fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.17-22
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to obtain the basic element of patterns, which is the motif, from the existing art works and use it to create and simulate a variety of patterns to show the practical use of the computer. Natural dyed works of geometric shapes like squares and 1/4 of circles, each dyed with a different natural dyes, were produced and motifs were extracted. Then using the 4D box in Adobe Photoshop v.6.0, the developing pattern change and simulation effects when using different patterns and different repetition settings were examined. Observations were made as the motifs were replicated. Different patterns like a diagonal line, a square and a circle appeared. In order to find out the effects according to the changes, the motifs from work's square portions, circle centre, and the composition of eight motifs were extracted and used. The repeated patterns according to the extracted motifs simply showed that in the case of just repeating and arranging, square patterns appeared. By replicating and arranging, the motif and the allophone were matched and patterns with regular lines were formed, like a twill, pointed twill line. By setting the direction to Y and X in the repetition methodes, a typical half-drop arrangement or a brick pattern arrangement were formed according to 1/4, 2/4, 3/4, 1/3, or 2/3 in changes. Also the steepness of the slope changes quickly or in turn slowly as the rhombus shape appears. However in the case of a composed motif, an ogee pattern appeared. Lastly, by 3-D mapping patterns like a slant line, pointed twill patterns, diamond patterns, and the repeat patterns of a motif with a circle and a line combined, and a circle motif, an optical illusion could be observed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.4 no.3
• /
• pp.9-15
• /
• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.598-605
• /
• 2001

The study that has been conducted is the consideration of the durability of dye, antibacterial activity, and deodorizing effects of cotton and silk textiles dyed with a botanical dying material that has been used in various ways over the years as Korean diet and folk remedies, the pomegranate. 1. The results of the K/S value of dying according to the types of mordants of textiles dyed with pomegranate extract the following have been discovered: The increase of K/S value of dying of the silk textiles appear to be higher than that of the cotton textiles. Next, silk textiles that have been treated with FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$ appear to be at the highest. 2. The results of the color change measurement show a difference of color can be noticed according to the types of mordant. As opposed to those textiles that had been only scured textiles, all of the dyed textiles appeared to turn yellow. 3. Textiles that had been treated with $K_2$Cr$_2$O(sub)7 recorded the highest durability according to the colorfastness to light results. In the case of the cotton textiles colorfastness to washing, all appeared to show exceptional results of 3rd class or higher, excluding the textiles that had been treated FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. However silk textiles recorded relatively low classes of below 3rd to 4th class. For the colorfastness to washing of pollution, the results for both the cotton and silk textiles were excellent at class 4-5. The results of colorfastness to perspiration, colorfastness to rubbing, and colorfastness to dry cleaning showed comparatively exceptional results of 3rd to 4th class or higher when it came to dyed textiles. 4. According to the measurements of antibiosis, dyed textiles that had been treated with SnCl$_2$.2$H_2O$ appeared to show an exceptional bacterium decrease of approximately 70%. 5. According to the deodorizing measurements, dyed silk textiles appeared to have a higher deodorizing effect than cotton textiles. As for cotton textiles, those that had been treated with FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$ and in the case of dyed silk textiles those that had been treated SnCl$_2$.2$H_2O$ recorded the highest deodorizing effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.38 no.6
• /
• pp.929-941
• /
• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.12
• /
• pp.1653-1661
• /
• 2007

The research aimed to establish the standard extraction procedure for examining brazilin, the major chromophoric substance of Sappanwood, using GC-MS with the ultimate goal of identifying the sappanwood dye in severely faded archaeological textiles. The amount of brazilin represented by the GC abundance was the largest when acetone was used as the extraction medium, followed by methanol. Shaking plate operated at room temperature was more effective than the waterbath shaker which was operated at $30^{\circ}C$. In both cases, the extraction method which incorporated one hour pre-soaking before the 12 hours of actual extraction resulted in a larger amount of brazilin detection than the extraction procedure without the one hour pre-soaking. In case of water extraction, pH 5 resulted in the most effective pH level for the extraction of brazilin, The best GC-MS parameter for detecting brazilin was to set the column temperature initially at $50^{\circ}C$. gradually increase to $210^{\circ}C$ at a $23^{\circ}C/min$ rate, finally increase to $305^{\circ}C$ at $30^{\circ}C/min$ rate, and hold for 14 minutes, and the MSD scan range at $75{\sim}400m/z$.