• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.67-75
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to conserve of golden decoration(Jikgeumdan) of Chima(skirt) and Jeogori(Korean jacket) of the costumes excavated from Hangju Gi' tomb(17th Century) of Joseon dynasty$(1392{\sim}1910)$ and to focus on the development of conservation skill to prevent flakings of gold leaves in gilt paper strips. Up to the present, in case of golden decorations of costumes excavated from tombs of Joseon dynasty, some of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of costumes were flaked away by deterioration of adhesives in tombs. However, most of gold leaves were flaked away and totally lost by wet cleaning for eliminating contaminants after excavation. In order to prevent flaking, preliminary experiments for re-adhesion of gold leaves have been carried out. Firstly, simulation was performed using gold leaf which was available in the market. Adhesives used in this research were water-soluble adhesives(hide glue(cow, rabbit), glue made from air bladders of sciaenoid fish and Primal AC-3444 of acrylic emulsion) and solvent-soluble adhesives(acrylic adhesive Paraloid B-67 and B-72). Because of difficulty in wetting and spreading of adhesive solutions into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, water-soluble adhesives were not proper for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Solvent-soluble adhesives were easily infiltrated into interface between gold leaf and Korean paper and the adhesive force was also satisfied. From this result, the researchers chose more flexible Paraloid B-72$(Tg\;40^{\circ}C)$ 1% solution than Paraloid B-67$(Tg\;50^{\circ}C)$ for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Secondly, using Paraloid B-72 1% solution, the estimations of re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Jeogori were carried out. When Paraloid B-72 1% solution was injected three times into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, the re-adhesion was most effective. On the basis of the results in these preliminary experiments, re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Chima and Jeogori were carried out on condition of three times injections of Paraloid B-72 1% solution before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were survived, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.525-535
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• 2021

본 연구는 동궁비 원삼의 직금단과 자수에 사용된 금사를 대상으로 과학적 분석을 통해 재료적 특성을 파악하였다. 동궁비 원삼의 금사 배지는 비목질계 섬유소가 관찰되어 닥나무 섬유의 한지를 사용한 것으로 추정된다. XRF 분석을 통해 동궁비 원삼의 통수스란에는 순금의 편금사, 색동과 한삼에는 편은사로 제직한 직금단임을 알 수 있었다. 특히 편은사에서는 황이 높게 검출되는데 이것은 은을 사용하여 금빛을 내기 위한 훈증의 유황 성분의 영향과 보존환경에 의한 황화은이 형성된 것으로 보인다. 또한 용보의 문양은 연금사와 연은사로 표현하였으며, 용보의 테두리는 순금의 연금사로 장식하였다. 특히 본 연구에서는 금사의 금속면과 배지 사이의 접착제와 혼합물에 대해 GC/MS, XRF, Raman 분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 단백질계 화합물인 아교와 같은 접착제를 사용하고, 혼합물로는 편금사의 경우 활석을 섞고, 편은사에는 석간주를 혼합하여 사용하였음을 확인할 수 있었다.