• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.67-75
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to conserve of golden decoration(Jikgeumdan) of Chima(skirt) and Jeogori(Korean jacket) of the costumes excavated from Hangju Gi' tomb(17th Century) of Joseon dynasty$(1392{\sim}1910)$ and to focus on the development of conservation skill to prevent flakings of gold leaves in gilt paper strips. Up to the present, in case of golden decorations of costumes excavated from tombs of Joseon dynasty, some of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of costumes were flaked away by deterioration of adhesives in tombs. However, most of gold leaves were flaked away and totally lost by wet cleaning for eliminating contaminants after excavation. In order to prevent flaking, preliminary experiments for re-adhesion of gold leaves have been carried out. Firstly, simulation was performed using gold leaf which was available in the market. Adhesives used in this research were water-soluble adhesives(hide glue(cow, rabbit), glue made from air bladders of sciaenoid fish and Primal AC-3444 of acrylic emulsion) and solvent-soluble adhesives(acrylic adhesive Paraloid B-67 and B-72). Because of difficulty in wetting and spreading of adhesive solutions into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, water-soluble adhesives were not proper for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Solvent-soluble adhesives were easily infiltrated into interface between gold leaf and Korean paper and the adhesive force was also satisfied. From this result, the researchers chose more flexible Paraloid B-72$(Tg\;40^{\circ}C)$ 1% solution than Paraloid B-67$(Tg\;50^{\circ}C)$ for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Secondly, using Paraloid B-72 1% solution, the estimations of re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Jeogori were carried out. When Paraloid B-72 1% solution was injected three times into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, the re-adhesion was most effective. On the basis of the results in these preliminary experiments, re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Chima and Jeogori were carried out on condition of three times injections of Paraloid B-72 1% solution before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were survived, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.525-535
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• 2021

This study identified material properties through scientific analysis on Jikgeumdan(satin with gold threads) from Donggungbi-Wonsam and the gold threads used in the embroidery. The Donggungbi-Wonsam's base of gold threads were estimated to have used mulberry fiber's Korean paper(Hanji) because non-wood-based fibers were observed. The X-ray spectrometer showed that the Tongsuseulan of Donggungbi-Wonsam was a flat gold thread of pure gold and Jikgeumdan of flat silver thread of its Saekdong and Hansam. High sulfur levels were detected in the flat silver thread, which appeared to have formed silver sulfide by either manufacturing process using sulfur or conservation environment. he dragon insignia's embroidery is also described as two types twisted gold threads; pure gold and alloying-gold and silver. while dragon insignia's border line is decorated with a twisted gold thread of pure gold. In particular, it was investigated that adhesives such as an animal glue, a protein-based compound by gas chromatography mass spectrometry. Additionally, XRF and Raman spectroscopy analysis on the mixture substances between the metal surface and the base paper of gold threads identified talc and quartz in the gold threads and Seokganju(hematite) in the flat silver threads.