• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1778-1790
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• 2002

본 논문은 중세 동서 아시아 사이 의 직금금(織金錦;gold brocade) 장식적 교류에 대한 연구이다. 중세 직금금에 대해서는 선행 학자들이 기술적인 측면이나 디자인과 관련하여 논의한 바 있다. 그러나 동서 아시아 직금금의 기술적 및 장식 적 교류와 관련된 연구는 진행 된 바가 없다. 특히 한국에 보존되어 있는 고려시대 의 직금금은 다른 나라의 직금금과 비교하여 연구되어 있지 않다 따라서 본 논문에서는 한국에 보존되어 있는 고려시대 직금금을 포함한 동서 아시아 직금금의 장식적 교류에 대하여 연구하고자 하였다. 본 논문은 한국의 직금금을 포함한 동아시아의 직금금 21점과 서아시아의 직금금 37점을 연구대상으로 하였으며, 이들 동서아시아의 직금금 각각을 그 장식적 특성에 따라 분류하였고 동서 아시아 직금금 사이에 교류된 문양과 패턴의 장식적 특성에 대하여 논의하였다.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.90-98
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• 2007

Some study has showed that the origin of a woven with supplementary golden wefts in China was from Wei(魏) dynasty. The earliest, what we can see now, of a woven with supplementary golden wefts is the thing of Tang(唐) dynasty in China. So, until it has a new archaeological discovering, the study of the origin of it can but use literature records. This study compared with several records before Sui(隋) dynasty. It showed that the beginning of a woven with supplementary golden wefts in China was not from Wei dynasty but from Jin(晋) dynasty. This study also showed that the purse of the official had been weaving with supplementary golden Weft from Northern Qi(北齊) dynasty to Sui dynasty. These records are very important for studying woven with supplementary golden wefts in China.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.43-49
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• 2016

Gold threads mean thread made by metal, it is composed various material to gold leaf, adhesive and media. The making technique and using materials of Gold threads are different from region, it can be used to distinguish country of origin. So this study finds characteristics and making techniques for flat gold threads of relics. Standard samples are made of animal glue, lacquer, red lacquer and etc. This materials are based on the scientific investigation of cultural gold threads properties. Then traditional techniques were estimated by comparison and analysis of actual cultural properties and standard samples. As a result of investigating cultural properties, it is similar to the standard sample which are mixed with red soil additives. After analysis of SEM-EDS, it is detected to Al, Si, Fe. So it is to the conclusion that traditional gold thread is made of adhesive mixed with red soil to improve gold color better. And this ways are similar with china that uses animal glue and red soil to adhesive and different from japan that uses lacquer to adhesive. Through this study, it will be used to data and reference for reappearance and making techniques of traditional gold threads.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Applied Microbiology Conference
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• 1975.07a
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• pp.110.1-110
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• 1975

식물로부터 생리활성물질을 얻고자 검색한 결과 Polygonatum falcatum A. Gray에서 얻은 polysaccharide가 가토의 말초혈액중의 백혈구수에 영향을 미침을 알고 여기에 대하여 실험하였다. Polygonatum falcatum A. Gray에서 polysaccharide를 추출하여 정제한 시료와 이 시료를 가수분선하여 얻은 시료를 가토에 직금 투여하여 말초혈액내의 R.B.C, W.B.C.의 수를 측정하였다.(중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.79-93
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• 2013

In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.7
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• pp.1162-1174
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• 2010

Excavated gold brocade, often shows signs of serious damage and contamination from environmental factors such as exposure to soil or human remains. Therefore, most of the conservation procedures are focused on the consolidation of the gold thread and on cleaning with water or organic solvents. Indiscreet cleaning using solvents could damage the gold leaf, which identifies the features of fabric. There is a need to develop cleaning protocols appropriate for relics through the careful analysis of the condition of the relics. This study finds the appropriate cleaning method for the excavated gold brocade. Four different cleaning methods, vacuum cleaning, kneaded rubber eraser cleaning, immersion wet cleaning, and absorption wet cleaning were applied to the excavated gold brocade. The degree of cleaning and damage were examined depending on the cleaning methods, changes to the physical condition (before and after cleaning) were also analyzed through the surface observation. Although immersion cleaning showed the best cleaning result, this method had a risk of damage to the gold thread. Absorption wet cleaning safely eliminated the various soluble contaminants and the rotten smell of relics. Kneaded rubber eraser was suitable for the excavated gold brocade fabric because it can be applied to selective parts, intentionally excluding some sensitive parts such as the gold thread. The vacuum cleaning method required special attention because of a possibility of suctioning off loosely attached gold leaf. Dual cleaning, the kneaded rubber eraser cleaning, followed by the absorption cleaning was the most effective method to preserve and clean excavated gold brocade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.129-141
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• 2008

Jikgeum(woven with supplementary golden wefts) hyungbae(rank badge) of danryung(official uniform) excavated from Im Backryung'tomb($1498{\sim}1546$) of the Joseon dynasty($1392{\sim}1910$) at Goyang, Gyunggi-Do in 2007, was in a critical condition because of serious collapse of substrate in metal thread. For conservation of hyungbae, metal thread was examined by different scientific methods(Light Microscope, Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Rray Spectrometry(SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy(FT-IR)). Analytical data showed that metal thread was gilt membrane strip composed of gold leaves and proteinaceous substrate which was probably parchment. To protect collapse of substrate, 1% solution of Paraloid B-72 was infilterated into substrate for consolidation of substrate and it was adhered to warp of fabric in hyungbae, before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were restored, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.11
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• pp.17-30
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• 2010

Here is an introduction of the conservation process and storing method of 26 garments for exhibition among the excavated garments of Cheonngyeongunju(a princess) preserved in the National Museum of Korea. Before processing, the artifacts were investigated to find out the type of material and the damaged parts, and then surface and wet cleaning were conducted. After that, it were dried and fixed while held by hand for stability of the artifacts. When stored, the artifact was folded minimally in large parts to prevent damage and placed in a neutral box with buffers in between.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.82-95
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to figure out the types and characteristics of golden decoration technique out of various techniques of expressing patterns on the costumes. This study reviews both costumes decorated with gold in the relics of Chosun dynasty and literatures focused on domestic and Chinese documents and records. The types of decoration technique using gold include JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (gold powder and flake attaching technique), and GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique). The JigGeum is weaved using golden thread instead of silk thread in order to express patterns. The InGeum technique is to attach gold or silver powder or thin gold or silver flake on the surface of the fabric. The GeumSaJaSu technique is to embroider with gold thread on fabrics. 82 pieces of costumes made using gold in Chosun dynasty era are analyzed. The results follows; In terms of types of technique, is shown to take the majority; JigGeum (43.90%), InGeum (30.49%), GeumSaJaSu (23.61%). Looking at the patterns used by the types, plant pattern and letter pattern are mostly used for both the JigGeum and the inGeum. In terms of the characteristics by their uses, the InGeum is used for court dresses (52%). It is also used for ordinary dresses (12%) and for other purposes (36%). It is mostly used in the court dresses in the late period of Chosun dynasty era. The JigGeum is used for ordinary dresses (47.22%), for court dresses (44.44%) and for other purposes (8.34%). It is evenly used for court dresses and ordinary dresses.