• Title/Summary/Keyword: 중력외파

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A Study on Minimization of Harbor Oscillations by Infragravity Waves Using Permeable Breakwater (투과제를 이용한 중력외파의 항내 수면진동 저감 방법에 대한 연구)

  • Kwak, Moon Su;Jeong, Weon Mu
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.434-445
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    • 2020
  • In this study, the minimization of harbor oscillation using permeable breakwater was applied to the actual harbor and investigated an effect of minimization by computer simulation in order to take into account the water quality problems and measures of harbor oscillation by infragravity waves at the same time. The study site is Mukho harbor located at East coast of Korea that harbor oscillation has been occurred frequently. The infragravity waves obtained by analyzing the observed field data for five years focused on the distribution between wave periods of 40 s and 70 s and wave heights in less than 0.1 m was 94% of analyzing data. The target wave periods was 68.0 s. The most effective method of minimization of harbor oscillation by infragravity waves was to install a detached permeable breakwater with transmission coefficient of 0.3 on the outside harbor and replace some area of the vertical wall in the harbor with wave energy dissipating structure to achieve a reflectivity of 0.9 or less. The amplitude reduction rate of this method shown in 27.4%. And the effect of the difference in transmission coefficient of permeable breakwater on the reduction rate of the amplitude was not significant.

Analysis on the Reduction Effects of the Gravity Waves and Infra-Gravity Waves of Detached Submerged Breakwater by Field Monitoring (현장관측을 통한 이안소파잠제의 중력파 및 중력외파 저감효과 검토)

  • Jeong, Weon-Mu;Back, Jong-Dai;Choi, Hyukjin;Kim, Sang-Ik
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.30 no.2
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    • pp.51-60
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    • 2018
  • This study was conducted to observe the effects of gravity and infra-gravity wave of detached submerged breakwater in the coast of Yeongnang-dong, Sokcho, as analyzing continuous wave data by performing field observations on the front area (W0) and rear area (W1, W2). Wave transmission coefficient ($K_t$) of submerged breakwater was analyzed in two parts, short-period wave (gravity wave) and infra-gravity wave. The wave energy reduction effect was analyzed and compared with the value of the design. In case of above wave height 2.0 m at the front area (W0) of the submerged breakwater, the short-period wave height at point W1 is reduced by about 65% and the short-period wave height at point W2 is reduced by about 59%. The depth of crest of submerged breakwater conducted in a sea area differs from the design, and the wave energy reduction effect is analyzed to be smaller than the design plan. The infra-gravity waves were amplified to 2.11 and 1.71 at the W1 and W2 points, respectively, and the wave height at W2 point was smaller than that at W1 point.

Effect of Infra-Gravity Waves on Nearshore Morphodynamics in the East Coast : Case Study - Ilsan Beach (장주기 중력외파의 동해안 연안지형변화에 미치는 영향 연구 : 사례연구 - 일산해변)

  • Son, Donghwi;Yoo, Jeseon;Shin, Hyunhwa
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • v.40 no.2
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    • pp.87-98
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    • 2018
  • It is widely known that infragravity waves can exert significant influence on wave run-up over beaches. Large run-ups can lead to overwash, flooding and severe coastal erosion. In spite of the importance of infragravity waves in relation to wave run-up and coastal erosion, few studies have been carried out with regard to the impact of infragravity waves on nearshore morphodynamics with respect to eastern beaches in Korea. The purpose of this study is to investigate the importance of infragravity waves in nearshore numerical modelling. For the study, XBeach model was set up to analyze morphodynamics in December 2016, in Ilsan beach which is located in Ilsan-dong, Ulsan Metropolitan City. After validation of the XBeach model, numerical experiments were conducted by using various directional spreading coefficients. As the directional spreading coefficients are increased, the effect of infragravity waves is also enhanced by narrowband frequency. With the increasing effect of infragravity waves, the amount of sediment transport is also increased and an erosion dominant pattern is found in the south part of Ilsan beach and a deposition pattern in the north part of the beach mainly due to the wave incident direction of NNE.