• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.853-865
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• 2019

In this study, the skin permeability was measured by adding skin penetrating peptides, arginine oligomers R4(tetra-D-arginine), R6(hexa-D-arginine) to little skin-permeable wrinkle improvement peptides GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK liposomes, and the results were analyzed by the following six cases. (1) In cases where only wrinkle improvement peptides GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK were contained liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 6.05%, 7.4%, and 8.83% respectively. (2) In cases where arginine oligomers R4, R6 were added to GHK liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 13.63% and 7.68%. (3) In cases where R4, R6 were added to GHK-Cu liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 15.46% and 8.64%. (4) In cases where R4, R6 were added to Pal-GHK liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 16.9% and 10.67%. (5) In cases where R4 were added to GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 13.63%, 15.46%, and 16.9% respectively. (6) In cases where R6 were added to GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 7.68%, 8.64%, and 10.67% respectively. This experiment showed that skin absorption of GHK was increased by copper ion (Cu2+) and palmitic acid and skin absorption of wrinkle improvement peptides was enhanced by cell penetrating peptides, and R4 showed higher effect than R6 in GHK, GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK. Through this process, we propose broad use and application in wrinkle improvement functional cosmetics by presenting the optimal conditions for increasing skin absorption of GHK, GHK-Cu, thus maximizing its efficacy.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.29-35
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• 2020

In this study, the skin permeability was measured by adding cell penetrating peptides, arginine oligomers; (tetra-D-arginine (R4) and hexa-D-arginine (R6)) to little skin-permeable anti-wrinkle peptides (GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK), and the results were analyzed by the following six cases. First, in cases where only anti-wrinkle peptides were contained, copper ions (Cu₂⁺) and palmitic acid enhanced the transdermal permeability. Second, when arginine oligomers (R4, R6) were added to GHK, arginine oligomers (R4, R6) increased percutaneous permeability, and R4 showed better percutaneous permeability. Third, the addition of R4 and R6 to GHK-Cu resulted in increased percutaneous transmittance, followed by R6 < R4 percutaneous transmittance. Fourth, when R4 and R6 were added to Pal-GHK, the percutaneous permeability increased with results in R6 < R4 order. Fifth, when R4 was added to GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK, the transdermal permeability increased in the order of GHK+R4 < GHK-Cu+R4 < Pal-GHK+R4. Finally, the addition of R6 to GHK, GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK also resulted in increased percutaneous transmittance in the order of GHK+R4 < GHK-Cu+R4 < Pal-GHK+R4. This study provides optimal conditions for enhancing skin absorption of anti-wrinkle peptides GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK, and propose a wide range of applications in anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics by suggesting ways to maximize their efficacy.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.685-699
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• 2019

Antioxidant, antibacterial, and skin penetration tests were conducted to investigate the skin absorption of Pyrus serotina var leaf extracts using polymer micelles and their applicability to cosmetic ingredients. Total polyphenol content was found to be $118.83{\pm}9.39mg/g$ in Pyrus serotina var leaf ethanol extract and $106.89{\pm}4.45mg/g$ in Pyrus serotina var leaf hydrothermal extract. The DPPH radical scavenging activity was found to be the highest radical scavenging activity of $74.39{\pm}7.48%$ of the Pyrus serotina var leaf ethanol extract at the concentration of 500 mg/L. The SOD-like activity was $91.62{\pm}0.43%$, the highest value at the concentration of 1,000 mg/L in the hydrothermal extract. After the experiment, antioxidation, wrinkle improvement and whitening activity were confirmed, and the Pyrus serotina var leaf extract was highly likely to be realized as antioxidant and antibacterial material. In the skin penetration experiment with the Pyrus serotina var leaf ethanol extract, the permeation amount of total accumulated tannic acid was found to be Formulation 2 ($55.45{\mu}g/cm^2$), Formulation 1 ($46.43{\mu}g/cm^2$), Formulation 0 ($34.36{\mu}g/cm^2$). In the liposome's skin penetration experiment containing pear leaf hydrothemal extract, the total amount of accumulated tannic acid permeation was found to be Formulation 5 ($75.01{\mu}g/cm^2$), Formulation 4 ($64.01{\mu}g/cm^2$) and Formulation 3 ($36.60{\mu}g/cm^2$). Through this study, we confirmed the possibility of antioxidant and wrinkle effects of Pyrus serotina var leaf extract. In addition, as a result of skin penetration through the production of polymer micelles and liposome containing Pyrus serotina var leaf extract, It will be more usable in cosmetic industry.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.524-531
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• 2018

The essential oil from Abies koreana E.H. Wilson had been developed, however, its efficacy has not yet been studied especially in terms of skin care research. The aim of this study is to investigate the effects of Abies koreana extracts (AKE) on melanogenesis and wrinkle formation in B16F10 melanoma cells (B16F10) and human dermal fibroblast cell line (HDF). The essential oil was extracted by hydrodistillation method and purified by anhydrous sodium sulfate. At a concentration of $10^{-5}$-fold, viability in these cells had been defined by cytotoxicity assays. Anti-melanogenic effects on B16F10 were evaluated using tyrosinase inhibition assay, and real-time PCR for verifying gene expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 and -2 (TRP-1 and -2). AKEs reduced about 5-fold of tyrosinase inhibitory activity compared to ${\alpha}$-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH)-induced group and about 30% reduction compared to Arbutin induced group. The mRNA levels of three melanin-related factors were increased, separately. To investigate the effects of anti-wrinkle, procollagen type I c peptide synthesis assay (PIP) and Western blot were performed. At AKE-treated group, PIP was up-regulated and the expression of collagen type 1 and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 were improved. Furthermore, AKE presented anti-wrinkle effects by increasing UVB-inhibited collagen type 1 expression, and reducing UVB-induced MMP-1 production at $60mJ/cm^2$ of UVB radiation. Therefore, Abies koreana extracts has potentials as a safe and an effective skin ingredient for whitening and anti-wrinkle.