• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.359-369
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• 2018

When expressing Christ visually in the medieval Christian painting, the most important issue was how to express the divinity as Son of God and the humanity as attribute of human in a balanced manner. The purpose of the study is to examine both formative and symbolic characters of divinity and humanity on the Christ's body and clothes in the Medieval paintings, Transfiguration of Christ. In the paintings, Christ's body is definite evidence to show both his divinity and humanity. In connection with the body, the clothes reveal Christ's humanity and divinity as well. Through this research, the study found that the divinity and humanity on the Christ's clothes in the Transfiguration of Christ were as follows: Blue, gold, purple, white and bleaching effect are the emblem of divinity, and red and color contrast effect with a high chroma stand for humanity of Christ. In addition, unstructured wrinkles of clothes reveal Christ's divinity, on the other hand, structured drapery shows his humanity through emphasizing volume of the body. Finally, divinity of Christ is shown on the gold clavus and red clavus intensify his humanity. Medieval Christian paintings are products planned out to express Christ's dual nature. There is a significance that the paintings represent the profession of painter's faith and the dogma of the era. Furthermore, they suggest the importance of the image to deliver the abstract concepts by visualizing.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.2
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• pp.146-165
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify differences in the formative characteristics and system of Jobok by comparing the three relics Ui, Sang, and Daedae, which comprised Jeon-Sik's Jobok, with the data in the literature and five excavated Jobok relics, Sin Kyung-yu, Kwon-Woo, Hwasan-Gun, Milchang-Gun, and Lee Ik-jeong, from the 17th and 18th centuries. Jeon-Sik'sJobok was designated as a Gyeongbuk tangible cultural heritage, Sangju JeonSik Jobok and Crafts, in 2021. The three components of Jeon-Sik's Jobok are valuable as historical data since they are the oldest relics confirming colors. Regrettably, the edging fabric of the Ui made of red twill was mostly lost, with only traces remaining. Based on records, it was presumed that the edging fabric was black. It was confirmed that white decorative lines were yet to be used. In Jeon Sik's Sang, only the three front widths and one rear width remain, but the shape of the four rear widths can be inferred, and the creases were held only at the waist. Eighteenth-century Sang was connected at intervals at the end of the waist. Seventeenth-century Sang was connected with a slight overlapping of the rear Sang below the front Sang; therefore, it is assumed that Jeon Sik's Sang was also connected by overlapping the rear by more or less than 5cm below the front. After Hwasan-gun, the Sang was first made using black lines, then white lines were inserted, and, finally, it was pleated from the waist to the hem. The Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding the corners to form a 冂 shape with a single long band. The white Ju(紬) and the green yumunsa were used for the Daedae and the edges. This matches the color of the Daedae seen in the Jobok portraits of Milchang-gun, Lee Ik-jeong, and Jeong Hwi-ryang from the 18th century. In the 17th century, the Daedae made the Yo and the Sin by folding a long band like the Daedae of Jeon-Sik. After the 18th century, the Yo and the Sin were made separately and connected. To tie the Daedae to the waist, thin straps were attached at both ends. The relics of Jeon-Sik can be evaluated as reflecting the 17th-century Jobok system in terms of color and shape. Furthermore, it can be said that they are important historical data complementing the insufficient or inaccurate records of the Gukjoolyeui-seolye and Gyeongguk-daejeon.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.483-493
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• 2020

In this paper, we present a nondestructive analysis using X-ray and microscopic investigation to detect the structure, manufacturing technique and preservation status of the Goryeo lacquered box Inlaid with Mother-of-pearl Chrysanthemum and Scroll Design (Goryeo Lacquered Box). We confirm that the Goryeo Lacquered Box consists of the soft wood as the basic material. The soft wood was coated with textile and then lacquered. The box structure of the Goryeo Lacquered Box was formed of wooden boards with wood plants added to the side, after processing into a trefoil-shaped. The wooden sides of the Goryeo Lacquered Box were cut at regular intervals for easier processing into a curved shape. Moter-of-pearl, tortoiseshell, and metal wire were used to decorate the surface. mother-of pearl was the cutting processing, and tortoiseshell was used for back coloring. The metal line was constructed using one line and twist line.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.57 no.2
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• pp.52-78
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• 2024

This study analyzes the sculptural art of SeokhaSichan(石霞施讚, 1893-1958), a significant figure in modern Korean Buddhist art, to re-examine his contributions and standing in the history of Korean Buddhist art. Sichan expanded the boundaries of modern Korean Buddhist art by developing a unique style based on the traditional sculptural techniques he learned from his mentor, Wanho Nakhyeon (玩虎洛現, 1869~1933). This study explores Sichan's artistic development, focusing on his artistic characteristics and sculptural evolution. Sichan's early works are characterized by small sculptures modeled after the main Buddha of Seokguram Grotto and heavily influenced by his mentor, WanhoNakhyeon. In his later works, notable features include a sense of massive volume, larger scale, upright postures, integration of the Buddha statue with its pedestal, and decorative treatment of drapery. These changes are interpreted as Sichan's response to social changes and his reflection of inner contemplation and artistic exploration in his works. This study reveals the influences of Wanho Nakhyeon, collaborations with Toewon Woneil(退雲圓日, 1877~1939), interactions with patron Kim Jiseonghwa(金至誠華), and master-disciple relationship with successor Geumchun Seongpil(金春性必) through literature review and newly discovered works by Sichan. His works and his artistic evolution are pivotal milestones in the history of modern Korean Buddhist sculpture, demonstrating a unique integration of traditional and modern aesthetics. This study provides valuable insights into how Sichan's artistic legacy was inherited and developed by subsequent generations and offers crucial materials for the study of modern Korean Buddhist sculpture history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1837-1847
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• 2008

The goal of this study is to express the image of chameleons-that change their colors by light, temperature and its mood-into the sexy styles of corresponding coquettish temperamental people in Wearable Art. The method used in this study was experimenting various production mediums, including creating the textured stretch fabric, in the process of expressing the conceptual characteristics of the chameleon in Wearable Art. The concept of the work was a concoction of 'tempting', 'splendid', 'brilliant', 'fascinating', etc. that highlighted the real disposition of the chameleon. The futuristic preference of the researcher was also implicated. "Comfortable" and "enjoyable" concepts via motions were improved with the its completeness. The point of the design and production is to express symbolically the chameleon in real life, analyzing its sleek body lines, conditional colors changing, outer skins and the cubic textures. The coquettish temperamental image, the conceptual image of the chameleon, was also expressed by implication into the whole work. The entire line of this work is body-conscious silhouette. It was symbolically selected to image the outline of the chameleon that has the slim and sleek body. The exposed back is intended to express symbolically the projected back bones of the chameleon. The hood of gentle triangle line expresses the smooth-lined head part. The irregular hemlines represent the elongated chameleon's tale. The chameleon with its colors of vivid tones is characterized the colors changing by its conditions. This point was importantly treated in the working process by trying the effects that the colors are seen slightly different according to the light and angles. The material was given the effect that its surface colors are seen different in lights and angles because of the wrinkles protruded lumpy-bumpy. The various stones of red and blue tones are very similar to the skin tones of the real chameleon, and their gradation makes the effect that the colors are visibly changed with each move. The textures of the chameleon were produced via the wrinkle effect of smoke-shape, which is the result of using the elastic threads on the basic mediums stitched with 50/50 chiffon and polyester along with velvet dot patterns. The stretching fabric by the impact of the elastic threads is as much suitable for making the body-conscious line. The stones are composed of acrylic cabochon and gemstone. They are symbolically expressed the lumpy and bumpy back skin of the chameleon and produced the effect of the colors visibly different. The primary technique used in this dress is the draping utilizing the biased grains. The front body piece is connected to the hood and joined to the back piece without any seam. For the irregular hemline flares, leaving the several rectangular pieces with bias grains, they were connected by interlocking. What defines the clothes is the person in action. Therefore, what decides the completeness of clothes might be its comfortable and enjoyable feeling by living and acting people. The chameleon dress could also reach its goal of comforting and pleasing Wearable Art in the process of studying the techniques and effects that visibly differentiate the colors. It is considered as a main point of the Wearable Art, which is a comfortable enjoyable clothing tempered with the artistic beauty.