• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2023.04a
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• pp.48-48
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• 2023

지역의 역사성을 지니고 발전한 전통색은 지역 문화와 자연환경에 영향을 받는다. 전통색은 일반적으로 관용색명으로 표현하는데, 이는 세계인의 공용어가 아니므로 우리의 천연염색을 국내외 일반인과 공유하기 위해서는 표준화된 색명(KS-계열색, RGB, CMYK)을 사용하는 것이 필요하다. 우리나라에서 염료재로 활용된 염료식물은 393종으로 알려져 있다. 본 연구에서는 염료식물의 자원 활용과 그 보전적 가치를 알리고자 염료식물을 언급한 고문서 및 현대자료를 바탕으로 사용 부위, 매염제의 종류, 염색 시 발현 색상의 관용색명을 조사하였고, 이를 국가표준색상환에 대입하여 표준화에 대한 방향성을 제시하고자 한다. 연구 결과에 따르면, 염료식물 393종 중 관용색명을 가진 염료식물은 312종이었고, 관용색명의 정보가 없는 식물은 81종으로 나타났다. 염료식물의 사용 부위 정보를 가진 식물은 187종이었고, 이용부위는 식물체 전체(전초), 뿌리, 줄기(껍질), 줄기(심재), 나뭇가지, 잎, 열매(껍질), 꽃이었다. 염료식물에 활용되는 매염재는 15가지(천연 6종, 화학 9종)로 나타났다. 관용색명을 가진 염료식물 312종에서 조사된 540개 관용색명을 표준화 시키기 위하여 국가표준색상환에 대입한 결과, 표준화된 색명(KS계통색명, RGB, CMYK)을 갖는 식물은 127종, 관용색명은 있지만 표준화된 색명을 확인할 수 없는 식물은 185종인 것으로 나타났다. 향후 염료식물을 연구하는데 있어서 관용색명의 정보가 없는 염료식물에 대한 표준화된 색명을 찾아내는 연구가 이루어져야 할 것이다.

• Archives of design research
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.317-326
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• 1999

The Korean traditional color passed down over countless generations has surpassed both surpassed both time and space and continue today to breathe life into its people's everyday. In order to clarify the characteristics of Korean traditional color blue and red, we investigate the names of them and measured the color tones of textile remains in Chosun era. The characteristics of Korean traditional color blue and red have been surveyed by means of the examination of color names in many famous literatures in Chosun era. Korean terms for color tones were characterized by enormous variety of epithes crowned on them. The color names mentioned contain many unaccountable epithes which were characterized also deep colors and light colors were dominant in it. As a means of enhancing possibilities within limited colors, the commoners increased the names for varying tones of blue color group(32kinds) and red color group(40kinds). These "blue(indigo dyeing)' and 'red(safflower dyeing)' in Chosun era were shown very high frequency in use and the costume colors in Royal Court. With combination of these various blue and red colors they represented a thought of color based on Yinyang Theory and created a polished aesthetic taste. The color samples of textile remains in museum were measured and designated by Munsell color system and the ISCC-NBS color designation system. THe appeared rates were derived on Chosun era and features of colors using on the period were discussed. We aim to present specific recipes in indigo dyeing and safflower dyeing for using our apparel product and folk art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.631-655
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• 2022

Modern Hanbok tends to use new colors based on traditional colors and their symbolic meanings. In addition to the traditional colors, various expressions have been increased, it is necessary to consider the color and color trend used in modern clothing. This study focused on the period 2011 - 2020 and analyzed the main color and coloring method of top and skirt by year with 450 data from a total of 81 wedding magazines. The results of examining the characteristics of traditional colors during the target period are as follows. First, the main color of the Jeogori showed a distribution of various colors in the first half, but the main color of the skirt concentrated on black, white and light pink in the second half. Second, while the use of blue and green systems decreased, Dang-ui color changed to warm yellow, green, and red systems. The Baeja used plain dark white in the first half; however in the latter half, they changed to white or accented colors. The one-piece used various colors in the first half, but only black and white appeared in the second half. Third, in the upper and lower colors of Hanbok, the blue-red color, the traditional contrast color of the first half, decreased significantly in the second half. The appearance rate of proximity for the complementary color harmony of white-red color and the adjacent color harmony of white-blue increased.