• Title/Summary/Keyword: 전통무늬

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Development of Textile Design Using the Formality of Gwamun in the Goryeo Dynasty (고려시대 과문(窠紋)의 조형성을 활용한 텍스타일 디자인 개발)

  • Jiyeon Kim;Jeong-ah Kim
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.28 no.5
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    • pp.141-159
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    • 2024
  • This study explores the history and defining characteristics of Gwamun during the Goryeo Dynasty and how these elements can be applied to contemporary textile design. Gwamun is a pattern style that features repeated arrangements of various motifs within a defined border. It was particularly popular in Korea during the Goryeo Dynasty and in China during the Song and Yuan Dynasties. The Gwamun styles found in Goryeo relics are categorized based on the shape of the border into three types: Dan-gwamun, which has a round shape; Danhwa-gwamun, characterized by a round flower shape; and Siche-gwamun, which resembles the end of a persimmonstalk. In this study, three pattern types and nine design motifs were derived from the formative characteristics of Gwamun. These motifs were then used to create unit patterns based on the arrangement techniques of Goryeo Dynasty textiles, resulting in a total of 18 unique textile designs. The color palette utilized corresponds to the 2025 trend colors, and each textile pattern was reinterpreted with modern hues and design methods while maintaining traditional forms and values. The developed textile patterns were incorporated into a Cheollik one-piece design using CLO 3D software. This virtual application confirmed the potential for integrating traditional Goryeo Dynasty patterns into new Hanbok designs. Overall, this work provides valuable insights that contribute to the diversification and global expansion of K-fashion.

A Robust Method for Automatic Segmentation and Recognition of Apoptosis Cell (Apoptosis 세포의 자동화된 분할 및 인식을 위한 강인한 방법)

  • Liu, Hai-Ling;Shin, Young-Suk
    • Journal of KIISE:Computing Practices and Letters
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    • v.15 no.6
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    • pp.464-468
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    • 2009
  • In this paper we propose an image-based approach, which is different from the traditional flow cytometric method to detect shape of apoptosis cells. This method can overcome the defects of cytometry and give precise recognition of apoptosis cells. In this work K-means clustering was used to do the rough segmentation and an active contour model, called 'snake' was used to do the precise edge detection. And then some features were extracted including physical feature, shape descriptor and texture features of the apoptosis cells. Finally a Mahalanobis distance classifier classifies the segmentation images as apoptosis and non-apoptosis cell.

The Characteristics of Excavated Fabrics from the Couple's Tomb of Jinju Ryu (진주류씨(晉州柳氏) 합장 묘 출토직물에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.45 no.2
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    • pp.51-62
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    • 2007
  • This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

A study on the development of fashion cultural products by applying Korean folk painting - Focus on the necktie and scarf - (민화 이미지를 활용한 패션 문화 상품 개발에 관한 연구 - 넥타이와 스카프를 중점으로 -)

  • Bang, Hey Kyong;Kim, Taemi
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.5
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    • pp.689-702
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    • 2022
  • Global fashion houses have recently incorporated traditional Korean motifs within their inspiration. This trend is an opportunity to showcase the colors of traditional Korean culture by investing in the new design content. Products specifically based on traditional Korean culture are lacking in brand awareness despite the success of Korean content. Accordingly, this study designs cultural products based on Korean folk painting that captures Korean people's satirical sense of humor. Korean folk painting theories are analyzed, from which different types of folk paintings are classified based on research of bibliographies and online documents. Following classification, the results are dataized as different types of folk paintings and their meanings. Furthermore, images of folk paintings are categorized and scanned digitally. The digitized images of the folk paintings are processed through Adobe Photoshop CS for overall layout and Adobe Illustrator CS for detailed designs. Traditional categories of Korean folk paintings are used, including flowers and birds, letters, and study stationery. Using the main elements of the flower and birds category, designs with cultural products such as images of flowers, birds, animals, and fish are produced. The final designs are used to create fashion items that can easily be used for embellishment or self-presentation: a scarf and a necktie. The scarf and the necktie are not only merchandise; they also symbolize the story, humor, and hope that Korean folk paintings once symbolized.

A Study of Material and Production Technique of Scroll Painting Ring in Joseon (조선시대 족자 장황에 사용된 고리의 재료 및 제작기법 연구)

  • Jang, Yeonhee;Yun, Eunyoung;Kwon, Yoonmi;Kim, Sooyeon
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.16
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    • pp.56-81
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    • 2015
  • Ring in the scroll painting is one of the mounting elements which are fixed string and tassel to hang, these differ widely in shape and produce a variety of metals. Most traditional shapes of ring have been lost, because of remount, there are used Japanese style rings in present.Therefore, this study examines to shape, production technique and analyze component traditional style rings of 19 traditional scroll paintings in National Museum of Korea for restoration of original style. Ring has been recorded official names; Wonhwan(Ring), Gukhwadong(Chrysanthemum shaped ornaments), Baemok(Ring-shaped nail) in Uigwe. Result of an optical microscope (Leica, M205A), Wonhwan has two type of production technique; one is cutting and bending a metal rod and other is cast. Baemok is made to forging process after metal rod or plate by casting alloy. Baemok decoration is metal plate cutting shape, and then decorates it with pattern by using kicking line engraving, chasing and so on. Component analysis result from portable X-ray fluorescence found various metals, such as, brass, iron silver-cooper. Brass based on copper and zinc used rings of 17 scroll painting. Baemok of Yun Sidal portrait is used iron and plated with a tin-lead alloy. Yi Seogu portrait is silver-cooper alloy in whole ring.

Conservation Treatment of the Rickshaw in the Daegu Modern History Museum Collection (대구근대역사관 소장 인력거 보존처리)

  • Seo Yeonju;Lee Uicheon;Park Junghae;Lee Yeongju;Kim Soochul
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.29
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    • pp.33-46
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    • 2023
  • Modern and contemporary cultural assets are defined as a collective term for tangible historical and cultural assets produced in the modern and contemporary period (around the opening of Joseon to the present) in Korea. Among them, rickshaws have been used as a major means of transportation for about 40 years since the opening of the ports in Joseon. The repair process for rickshaws divides the rickshaw into three parts, namely the body, the cover, and the wheels, applying a plaster treatment process by referring to the outcomes of the condition assessment and material analysis for the metal, wood, fiber, and paint used. Overall, the repair process is carried out through dry/wet cleaning, joining, stabilization, reinforcement of damaged parts, and other restoration treatments, which reveal metal decorations and patterns on the scaffolding (flowers, arabesque patterns, etc.) that were previously not observable with the naked eye, while also adding to the stability of the artifact. In addition, props were produced to ensure the artifact's safe exhibition.

Development study of New Weaving Structures by Korean Traditional Patterns - Focus on Tteoksal Patterns - (한국 문양을 활용한 직물 구조 디자인 개발 - 떡살무늬를 중심으로 -)

  • Yoo, Hyun-Ah
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.8 no.12
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    • pp.190-197
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    • 2008
  • Weaving design which is to be designed based on the machine words threading and treading is characterized by its strong limitation of expression. The concept of design has been set based on the patterns on the wooden rice-cake mold which arechosen from many Korean traditional patterns since the expressions of patterns limited by the wooden rice-cake mold is easy to be grafted upon each other. Particularly, literal patterns and geometrical patterns contain religious desire and wishes that are generated from man's fear and wonder about Nature rather than from the pursuit of beauty which is general characteristics of patterns. Based on these images, the twill technique, especially threading of Sally Nielson's rosepath which is easy in formal expressions is used to design Korean style patterns into the weaving structure. It is hoped that this study will provide an opportunity to introduce Korean style patterns to the weavers of the world and that the weaving designs will actively be utilized in the Korean industries so that they can acquire high value-added assets and commercialize our superior culture, thus being of great help to developing our cultural industr.

Silver Alloying Process for Mokumegane-like Effect for Jewelry Design (장신구 디자인을 위한 모꾸메가네 효과 은 합금 공정)

  • Song Oh-Sung
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.506-511
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    • 2006
  • Silver is one of the most appropriate Jewelry materials for Jewelry casting and bench working. The technique known as 'Mokumegane' is good for making silver jewelry with natural patterns, such as wood grain patterns, but the process is not easy for silversmithing because it requires complicated and heavy labour. Instead of using conventional Mokumegane technique, we propose a new modified silver-copper casting process that enables a similar surface effect with good metal bonding strength between silver and copper. Simply pouring the molten silver into pre-aligned copper granules or 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm-thick copper sheets leads to well embedded copper silver ingots. The rolled silver plates from those ingots show excellent bonding interface even after the silver plate rolled ten times. We successfully fabricated prototype rings with copper embedded silver plates. Our result implies that our newly proposed process nay be a simpler way to fabricate silver jewelry with a pseudo-Mokumegane effect.

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A Case Study on the Modernization of Traditional Brands, 'Burberry Prosum' - Focused on the Design Comparison between Original Burberry and Burberry Prosum - ('버버리 프로섬'의 사례를 통해 본 전통 브랜드의 현대화 연구 - 오리지널 버버리와 버버리 프로섬의 디자인 비교를 중심으로 -)

  • Jung, Kyung-Hee;Kim, Eun-Sil;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.87-99
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to analyse the successful modernization strategy, and the difference between original Burberry and Burberry Prosum design. This will help in providing the fundamental information to Korean luxury fashion brands. Burberry, in particular, is rated as the most popular luxury brand in Korean fashion market. This brand has also rated 5th in sale worldwide and 1st in Korea in 2002, and was continuously been rated in 10th for the last 5 years. Related articles, fashion magazines, fashion web-site were used in this analysis, and the method was theoretical and case study. The results are divided into two categories of internal and external factors and two design patterns of check pattern and trench coat were observed. First of all, internal factor in Burberry is that they have scouted a new CEO and quickly changed their image with famous British models for the purpose of marketing strategies. They have also moved their main shop in London to Bond street, and opened shops in every country's capital cities. They were successful in achieving this by using celebrity marketing strategies with many famous celebrities. Secondly, external factor was that they have hired a designer named Christoper Bailey and this highlighted and enhanced the check pattern and trench coat. As a results, more generalized and diverse design items were presented and accessory line was enhanced, creating a much more younger image. This in turn attracted more younger customers. To sum up, original Burberry focused on classic designs, however Burberry Prosum focused on transforming traditional Burberry design into avant-garde and young. In other words, the reason for the success of this brand is highly dependent on its marketing strategies in which its uniqueness of schizophrenic cloche has appropriately represented and used in design.

Molecular Phylogenetic and Dendrological Study of Paper-mulberry (B. kazinoki) in Gyeongsang-do Region (경상도지역 닥나무의 수목학 및 분자계통학적 연구)

  • Go, In Hee;Jo, Ah Hyeon;Jang, Kyung Ju;Park, Kyu Tae;Park, Sun Mi;Park, Seon Joo;Jeong, Seon Hwa
    • Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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    • 2019.04a
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    • pp.68-68
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    • 2019
  • 닥나무(Paper mulberry)는 뽕나무과(Moraceae) 닥나무속(Broussonetia)에 속하는 낙엽 활엽 관목으로 중국, 일본, 한국 등에 자생하며 Hutchinson(1967)에 의하면 닥나무 속은 열대, 아열대, 난대지방에서 자라는 낙엽성 관목으로 세계적으로 약 6종이 있다고 보고되었다. 일반적으로 닥나무의 품종을 구분하는 것은 수목학적 관점으로 잎의 성상, 줄기의 색과 무늬 유무로 구분한다. 그러나 상기의 수목학적 특징은 닥나무(Broussonetia kazinoki Siebold)와 꾸지나무[Broussonetia papyrifera (L.) L'Her. ex Vent.]가 유사하여 오동정의 사례가 발생하기도 한다. 경상도지역에서는 닥나무를 참닥나무, 머구닥나무, 개닥나무 3가지의 향명으로 구분하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 경상도지역 9개체 닥나무를 대상으로 수목학적 특징을 확인하였다. 나아가 식물종의 기준을 명확히 규명하기 위하여 엽록체 속의 matK, trnL-F, ndhF, 3개 마커와 핵에 존재하는 ITS, 총 4개 마커의 염기서열을 생산하였고 상기 구간에서 얻어진 염기서열 비교분석 및 계통학적 분류를 통해 유연관계를 파악하였다. 수목학적 관점으로는 품종을 명확하게 구분하기가 어려웠으며 분자계통학적 연구로 모든 시료는 닥나무와 꾸지나무의 교잡종으로 확인되었다. 본 연구 결과는 우리나라 전통한지의 원재료로 사용되는 닥나무류 식물자원의 분류체계의 확립을 위한 기초자료로 활용 될 것이다.

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