• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.20
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• pp.9-22
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• 2007

Three kinds of natural pesticides extracted from plants which are being sold in the Korean markets, were estimated effects on materials of art of museum. Tested samples were 1) silk fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gallut(copperas post mordancy), gardenia, turmeric, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+amur cork tree, indigo+sappanwood) 2) cotton fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gardenia, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+sappanwood) 3) undyed ramie fabric 4) Korean papers : undyed, dyed(sappanwood, indigo, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower) 5) pigments : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white 6) painted plates : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white. Conditions of tests were that after samples were exposed to 10 times of promoted concentration for 9 months in relative humidity $55{\pm}1%$ and temperature $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, they were compared with standards. Items of estimation were color difference(${\Delta}E^*$) and tenacity. After exposure to pesticides, undyed silk cotton ramie fabrics and Korean papers were not nearly changed in their colors, but colors of most of dyed samples were clearly changed by pesticides except for partial samples(acorn- and madder-dyed fabrics etc, gardenia-dyed samples). Especially changes of colors of turmeric-dyed silk fabrics were most distinct. And colors of pigments and painted plates containing lead, copper, arsenic, mercury and vegetable pigments, were clearly changed. Tenacities of yams of undyed silk fabrics were not nearly changed and undyed cotton fabrics were a little reduced as compared with standards. But tenacities of yams of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were clearly reduced or increased as compared with standards. Especially, madder-dyed silk fabrics were increased 10% or more and indigo-dyed silk fabrics were reduced 10% or less in all pesticides. Also madder- and sappanwood(alum post mordancy)-dyed cotton fabrics were increased 10% or more in all pesticides.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.411-411
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• 2000

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1999.03a
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• pp.219-219
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• 1999

마직물은 통기성, 흡수성, 투습성이 좋고 건조가 빠른 편이므로 여름철 직물로 많이 사용되어 왔다. 마직물은 또한 뻣뻣하며 몸에 감기지 않고 촉감이 깔깔하여 시원한 느낌을 주며 다른 직물에 비해 강직하고 표면이 거칠고 드레이프성이 떨어지는 등의 독특한 태를 가지고 있다. KES-F 시험기에 의해 여러 물성량들을 종합적으로 계측할 수 있게 됨에 따라 의복의 착용감에 만족을 주는 소재의 성능에 대한 연구가 종래의 주관적평가에서 KES-F 시스템을 이용하여 객관적으로 태를 예측하는 방법으로 진행되고 있다. 그러나 태를 평가하는 객관적 방법에서는 일반적으로 Kawabata와 Niwa에 의해 만들어진 평가식들이 주로 사용되나 이런 식들은 주로 모직물이나 합성섬유직물들을 평가하기에는 적합하지만 마직물의 독특한 태를 평가하기에는 부족하다고 생각된다. 마직물의 태가 기존의 객관적 평가방법만으로는 규명되지 않기 때문에 주관적 태평가방법을 아울러 실시해야 할 필요가 있다고 생각된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 마직물의 태를 평가하는 방법의 하나로 주관적 평가척도를 개발하고 이 척도를 사용하여 마직물의 주관적인 태 특성을 살펴보았다. 그리고 KES-FB 시스템을 사용한 객관적인 태를 측정하여 주관적 평가치와 객관적 측정치로부터 태 평가의 산출식을 유도하였다. 실험에 사용된 직물은 혼방률, 밀도, 두께 등이 다양한 암, 저마 그리고 마혼방직물과 한산모시, 중국마, 신합섬 직물 등 총 54종을 사용하였다. 마직물의 주관적 태 평가를 위해 26문항의 형용사쌍으로 구성된 9점의 의미미분척도를 개발하였으며 이 척도를 사용해 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 또 객관적 평가를 위해 KES-FB 시스템을 통해 역학적 특성치를 구하였다. 주관적 평가를 실시한 결과 마직물의 태에 영향을 미치는 7개의 요인이 추출되었다. 이 요인들은 표면성질, 신축성/드레이프성, 중량감, 강연성, 회복성, 수분특성, 밀도감이었으며, 요인들로 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.329-334
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• 2014

A scientific analysis of ancient textiles provides significant data to understand weaving techniques and culture of textiles in each region and charateristics of materials used at that time. In addition, species identification of waterlogged wooden objects is a scientific analysis method that allow us to verify information of relation of foreign species trade and exchange, of preferable species through kinds of wooden products, and of forest environment as well as method setting of conservation. As a result of a species analysis about historical textiles and a wooden comb in a bronze bowl that were excavated from Hapgang-ri, Dong-Myun, Yungi-gun, Chungcheongnam-do, Textile1 and Textile3 are identified as Urticacese Boehmeri nivea ; ramie, Textie2 is identified as Malvaceae Gossypium herbaceum, and a wooden comb is identified as Betulaceae Betula spp. It is expected that this result will help to make further comparative studies, identifying species of textiles and trees of ancient times.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.220-228
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• 2010

This study examines the scouring effect of pectinase on ramie fabric and influence of sodium sulfate as an activator for pectinase. The scouring effects were measured by the weight loss and pectin contents. SEM, weight loss, stiffness, moisture regain and dye ability of ramie fabric teated with pectinase/sodium sulfate were also measured. When ramie fabrics were desized with $\alpha$-amylase, the optimum conditions were pH 6.5 at $60^{\circ}C$ for 80 min with 1%(o.w.f) $\alpha$-amylase concentration. When ramie fabrics were scoured with pectinase, the optimum conditions were pH 8.5 at $55^{\circ}C$ for 30 min with 10%(o.w.f) pectinase concentration. Addition of sodium sulfate improved enzyme activity significantly, which increased proportionally with increasing sodium sulfate concentration. When 50 g/l of sodium sulfate was added, the surface became cleaner compared to the enzyme treatment without salt: weight and tensile loss, moisture regain and dyeability of the treated fabrics increased, while pectin contents and stiffness decreased. Therfore, sodium sulfate was effective activator for the pectinase treatment of flax fiber.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.175-179
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• 1996

The sappan wood dyeing conditions and mordanting methods suitable for ramie as well as silk were investigated. The HVC values of dyed silk ramie fabrics were varied by the amount of sappan wood in the dyeing bath, while the optimum weight of sappan wood for the extraction of dye was around 15g/l. The K/S value of dyed silk fabric showed no significant difference in the pH range of 3.5 to 6.5. However, the K/S values of dyed ramie fabric was increased proportion to the pH value of dye bath. The K/S value of dyed silk and ramie fabrics were most increased at the highest dyeing temperature in the range of 30 to 9$0^{\circ}C$. By various mordantings, the HVC values of dyed silk and ramie fabrics were differentiated and it's color fastness could be improved.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.161-172
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• 2023

In this study, natural dyeing using Polygonum tinctoria was performed with linen, ramie, and hemp, which are biodegradable cellulose fibers, considering environmental aspects. In particular, the impacts of alkali NaOH and reducing agent Na₂S₂O₄ were examined, and the possibilities of minimizing the use and reusing the dye were explored. The surface dye concentrations were found to be in the following order: hemp>linen>ramie. With the increase in all additives, the L^* value decreased, and the ⊿E and K/S values increased gradually. When Na₂S₂O₄ was 1g/L, the surface color of the dye appeared uniformly from the NaOH concentration of 0.4g/L (pH 10.84). When NaOH was 0.4g/L, the K/S values of linen and ramie increased rapidly after 0.4g/L of Na₂S₂O₄, and hemp maintained a stable color from 0.6g/L of Na₂S₂O₄. With the increase in the dye concentration from 1 to 6g/L, all the fibers were dyed uniformly. The K/S value increased or higher doubled upon repeated dyeing six times for 5 min than when dyed only once for 30 min. Therefore, the linen, ramie, and hemp fibers dyed repeatedly exhibited good washing, rubbing, and colorfastness to perspiration, which was rated between 4 and 4-5, and that to light was rated as 5. Moreover, no discoloration due to sunlight was observed. Finally, linen exhibited a bacterial reduction of 99.9%, thereby indicating its excellent antibacterial property.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.41-46
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• 1984

Ancient Korean and China litteratures show us that it has been long since people from humbler classes to king most commonly used bast fabrics as materials of their cloth. According to the record of these ancient litteratures, highly developed fine bast fabrics and those woven in figures were used as tribute between ancient Korea and China. In this study we will make a brief research of the history of bast fabric culture from ancient times to the Korea Dynasty in which the bast fabric culture flourished and reached the summit of prosperity. After having compared the bast fabric culture of ancient Korea with that of ancient China in which the bast fabric culture developed very much and bast fabrics were used more commonly as materials of cloth than any other fabrics, we could come to conclusions as follows. 1. Names were given to bast fabrics according to the kinds of bast fibers, the degree of fineness and the containing of figures: Ma-po, Jeo, Jeo-po, Bag-jeo-po, Moon-jeo-po, Po and Se-po. The number of 'Seung' which indicated the degree of fineness was attached to the top of each name to show how fine they are. 2. While the bast fabric of 30 Seung is known to be the most fine one of the ancient China, in ancient Korea fine bast fabric of higher than 30 Seung was woven. This fact proves that the technique of weaving bast fabrics of the ancient Korea was more highly developed than that of ancient China. 3. In ancient China the highest Seung number of the ordinary clothes which were put on after putting off livery of grief was regulated to be 15. But in ancient Korea, Sil-la, it was regulated to be 28. Judging from this fact, we may say that the consumption level of the ancient Korean people in cloth was higher than that of the ancient China people. 4. The reason why in ancient Korea the technique of weaving bast fabrics was so highly developed is suppoed to be that the ancient Korean people preferred elegant, refine and simple taste in cloth. 5. The excellent bast fabric culture of the ancient Korea flowed into ancient Japan. It proves that Korea played an important part in the history of textile development of the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.163-175
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• 2007

This study examines 74 pieces of textiles of Daegaya found in the Jeesan-dong Tomb and Saeng-cho Tomb, and analyzes their characteristics and weaving techniques. Dagaya is known to have produced ramie and hemp from bast fibers. The hemp textiles were all woven in plain weave, and the ramie textiles were woven either in plain weave or plain braid. The ramie textiles were slightly more dense compared to the hemp textiles, however, both had average densities between 0.92 to 0.93, showing that they are balanced plain weave textiles. It was also found that S twist threads were used in the production of the hemp and ramie textiles. The dyed textiles on iron remains were found to be the oldest textiles to use dying techniques for patterns. Silk textiles were woven in plain weave, twill weave, and leno weave. All of the silk were made with non-twisted thread. The densities were between 30 to 58.3 and the the density rates were 1.0 to 2.5 for plain weave silk, this showed that varieties of plain weaver created by different densities of warp and well. The average density of cho was $53.4{\times}22.5/cm^2$ the density rate was about 2.40, therefore warp was woven more dense compared to the weft. There were degummed and raw silk used in silk textiles, but most of them were found to be degummed thread.