• Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.343-350
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• 2015

Extensive discussion on the optimal types of offshore wind turbine(OWT) among monopile, tripod and jacket in the intermediate depth of water has been actively carried out in worldwide wind turbine industry. Selecting the optimal types of OWT among several substructural types, it is required to consider the economic and technical feasibility including dynamically stable design of a wind turbine system. In this study, the effects of loading levels and uncertainties of soil properties on the natural frequency of OWT have been quantitatively investigated. In conclusion, the natural frequency of monopile-type OWTs has a significant level of uncertainty, hence it is very important to minimize the level of uncertainties in soil properties when the monopile is selected as a foundation for an OWT.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.569-580
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• 2015

The recent fashion market failed to satisfy the needs of female customers in their 30s who are demanding a slim jacket that makes the wearer look young and slim. Accordingly, the slim-fit jackets of domestic brands targeting the women in their 30s were collected to conduct look and movement fitting evaluations based on the standard somatotype, and a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype was developed based on the present findings. This research aims to increase the satisfaction level of the slim-fit jacket customers reflecting a variety of somatotypes of women in their 30s. The research process was developing jacket patterns fully reflecting the properties in terms of extra space and design lines for different somatotypes of women in their 30s based on the jacket pattern formulated through the advanced research, and then suggesting pattern design methods for the different somatotypes. In this sense, this research attempted to identify the problems concerning the slim-fit tailored jacket fitting for different somatotypes of women in their 30s. The main aim was to suggest ways to improve the customers' satisfaction level regarding the fit, and enable the manufacturers to produce a well-fitting jacket reflecting the peculiarities of each somatotype.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.15-22
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to propose improvements for 3D garment simulation system by comparison with the difference between real garment and 3D garment simulation of women's jacket. The process of the study was to take pictures on the standard sized subject wearing the jacket of basic size, to get a avatar from body sizes of the subject, and to obtain images of 3D garment simulation on the avatar. The appearance evaluation was resulted by the method of a questionnaire survey after presenting the images to 24 members of patterner and 22 members of designer. On that appearance evaluation by designer group, perform comparative analysis of differences between the real garment and the 3D garment simulation of women's jacket. On that appearance evaluation by patterner group, perform comparative analysis of differences between the real garment and the 3D garment simulation of women's jacket. There were the differences on 4 areas: 1 questions of the side, 1 questions on the back, 7 questions on the sleeve, and 1 questions on the collar, and the results showed that the 3D garment simulation was preferable on each question.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.266-278
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• 2018

This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel's unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.123-137
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to suggest sleeve cap height with a satisfying wearing sensation and appearance on jackets for women in their twenties so that high-consumer demand jackets can be produced. Five experimental jackets with sleeve cap heights of [(AH/3)-1cm], [(AH/3)-0.5cm], [AH/3], [(AH/3)+0.5cm] and [(AH/3)+0.8cm] were made for 30 subjects to try on after which the subjects were then surveyed for their assessment of appearance, wearing sensation and preference. On the basis of the results, the optimum height of the sleeve cap has been proposed along with the following contents and results of this research. 1. [AH/3] [(AH/3)+0.8cm] of sleeve cap height was assessed to beof desirable appearance. 2. [AH/3] of sleeve cap height garnered a high opinion in terms of intuitive wearing sensation, while [(AH/3)-1cm] [AH/3] were the heights with overall satisfaction of intuitive and movement wearing sensations. If discomfort in the upper sleeve at 'straight arm' posture can be tolerated, the sleeve cap height can be set to [(AH/3)-1cm]~[(AH/3)+0.5cm]. 3. [AH/3] and [(AH/3)+0.5cm] were found to have a high preference among wearers, which indicated that the women in their twenties prefer a slim type of sleeve, putting appearance above wearing sensation. Consequently, [AH/3] is desirable when appearance, wearing sensation and preference are considered, [(AH/3)+0.5cm] is fit for business uniform for static duties or formal dress focused on aesthetic impression and [(AH/3)-1cm]~[AH/3] are desirable for work clothes when considering active duties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.781-792
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• 2015

This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.75-84
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• 2009

The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline $0.2{\sim}0.3cm$ outside the outer pattern was the most recommended. The center-back side was usually 2cm in activity measurements, but it turned out that a textbook which required ease treatment on the shoulder line did not do so on the lining material. The textbooks used in this research dealt only with how to manufacture a tailored jacket without full explanation about textures which could influence the manufacturing. The production method and process differed between different textbooks, showing the need to make a institutionalized education material. In a quickly-changing era where there is rapid change in the dressmaking procedure, we need to help students understand the process more easily through a formalized education process.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.31-46
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• 2018

This study was carried out to offer basic data that can be used for outdoor wear production for active senior males, emerging as a new consumer bracket in the era of rapid aging. To this end, this study modified and complemented the patterns of outdoor jackets for active senior males based on existing outdoor jackets that received the most excellent evaluation. On the basis of the research outdoor wear wearing assessment results, this study confirmed those areas to be modified and proposed areas to be considered in manufacturing outdoor wear for this demographic. As a result of existing outdoor wear's wearing assessment, the jacket of brand B was shown to be the most excellent one. This study actually designed research outdoor wear patterns by modifying the problematic parts through the addition and subtraction of spare length or circumference in the sections where fit satisfaction was low by referring to the selected brands' patterns. The research outdoor wear was designed by referring to the preferred outdoor types and colors that were highlighted in the previous survey result of consumer wearing reality, based on the designs of the outdoor wear receiving the most excellent assessment in wearing assessment. Fabric that specially glued two-layered mesh that bonded the thin membrane of synthetic resin with polyester fabric was used as the material in this study. Wearing assessment was conducted by comparing the manufactured research outdoor wear and the existing outdoor wear selected as excellently assessed outdoor wear. Consequently, this study verified that the wearing fit of the research outdoor wear was more excellent in most items. This study proposed final patterns for outdoor jackets suitable for active senior males through the modification of several items that required improvements as per the wearing assessment of the research outdoor wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.99-112
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the higher value-added characteristics of tailored jacket designs, which are major items of French luxury brands, in an effort to raise the competitiveness of domestic fashion designs. The characteristics of the jacket designs from the 1940s to the 1970s, the golden age of Haute Couture, were examined. Based on this, the characteristics of the higher value-added expressions of the luxury brands were established by analyzing the tailored jacket designs that appeared in the Paris collection after 2010. The results are as follows: the characteristics were categorized into 'traditional value expression,' 'conceptual value expression,' 'retro value expression,' and 'creative value expression.' Traditional value was expressed as the representation of the styles inherent to the golden age of the Haute Couture houses, and the status of the luxury brands with history was represented by equally arranging the size and characteristics of the elements of the designs related to jacket silhouette. Conceptual value was reestablished as contemporary identity into which the traditional ideology of the houses and the present designers' sentiments were grafted by developing the designs with the theme containing the identity of the past Haute Couture houses. Retro value was utilized as the strategy to differentiate the luxury brands with long history from contemporary products. Creative value was expressed as tailored jackets with new concepts of shape variation and usage conversion by combining creative sentiments with the high quality techniques of Haute Couture and appears to be able to create a new consumption market of luxury brands in the global fashion market.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.588-596
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• 2015

This study aims to provide the basic reference necessary in improving the fitness of a ready-to-wear brand jacket through a research on the wearing conditions and preferences regarding a tailored jacket by body shape of the women in their 30s. The following results were drawn by implementing the research method of the self-administered type survey targeting 201 women in their 30s from August 14~28, 2014. First, the female consumers in their 30s preferred one button slim fit jacket when purchasing a tailored jacket and chose a close-fitting size. Second, the slim fit tailored jacket consumers preferred a jacket with some extra portion in the bust and hip areas but tightly fit in the waist area. Third, when purchasing a jacket under the ready-to-wear size system, the women with a triangle shape similar to a standard body silhouette had less instances of mending a jacket while the women with a big or small rectangle shape different from a standard body silhouette had more experiences of mending a jacket. Accordingly, it is expected of the manufacturers to increase the fitness satisfaction of the consumers by identifying the problems concerning the fitness and suggesting the improvement plans to produce a jacket of a good fitness reflecting the properties of different body shapes through such research on the wearing conditions and preferences regarding a tailored jacket by body shape of the women in their 30s.