• Journal of Korean Ophthalmic Optics Society
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.45-50
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• 2002

The 'hands-on' craftsmanship of the 20th century has came and gone. Today, we are dealing with whole new, 'cerebral approach,' to concept and design with this new approach, design and function are very much dependant upon planning, sales, promotion, and the formative technique of the design industry. The innovative process of design constantly change as it reflects the needs and wants of society. It is and industry that constantly change as it reflects the needs and wants of society. It is and industry that constantly remakes and reshapes itself to suit current trend and outlook. The current idea being that consumers are looking for quality over quantity. Due to the 20th centuries dominant philosophy of functionalism, production intended to standardize the individual's purchasing choice. Aesthetic, or philosophic qualities played a second fiddle to the functional bias of a product, With production, Marketing, and research and development are integrated into the management process. This translates as good which include efficiency, quality, durability, and credibility an trademark and style. There is a definite 'post-modernist' movement and style in 21st century. Every possibility is available as the old boundaries of the 20th century are laid aside. There is a new, transformative quality to the current paradigm of design. The old "should" and "should not" of design no longerapplies. The integrated rative of design solves the usual disparity between aesthetic qualities and production. Design and profirability need not be stranger to one another. It can differentiate the image perceived of both enterprises and consumers by making use of integrated goods services. With an integrated system. both producers and designers win. While design gets full access to design in turn. All consumers make decisions based upon the evaluation of quality, service, and image ; even though it may not be a conscious decision to do so. Consumers are fully integrated human beings ; therefore producers who apply the new, integrated paradigmatic approach to concept, design, and production will reap the harvest of making a true relationship with individual buyer.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.204-221
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• 2020

East Asian countries share a culture of perfuming clothes. The prosperity of the Maritime Silk Road and the incense trade are direct factors that have led to the development of incense culture. Perfuming clothes is a method of applying fragrance by burning incense. The Chinese could make an incense mixture with various types of incense, and records demonstrating use of perfuming clothes tools (熏籠) show that they might have perfumed clothes with incense mixtures. During the Tang dynasty, the incense trade thrived. Examples of ancient literature such as 『千金要方』, 『香譜』, 『香乘』 describe how to make incense for perfuming clothes and how to perfume clothes. 『桂海虞衡志』 and 『諸蕃志』 shows trade partners and goods. Incense was introduced to Korea alongside Buddhist culture. 『買新羅物解』 shows Silla traded incense with Japan. One of the trade goods recorded in 『買新羅物解』 is perfuming cloth incense (熏衣香), which establishes that Silla performed perfuming clothes at that time. During the Goryeo dynasty, Goryeo exported musk as well as ginseng. The royal family burned incense from the Song royal family. Noblewomen preferred sachets. The use of this dress continued into the Joseon dynasty. 『買新羅物解』 showed that Japan imported incense from Silla. 『The tale of Genji』 illustrates Heian nobles' incense culture, perfuming clothes culture, and trade of incense. Perfuming clothes tools became essential articles for marriage purposes and it developed in a practical shape. The Champa had a perfuming clothes culture. It is described on 『諸蕃志』. As Agilawood is found in Tongking, and Tongking was neighbor to the Champa and China, they might have had a perfuming clothes culture as well. Korea, China, Japan, and Vietnam shared a perfuming clothes culture. We can identify universality and commonality in the purpose of perfuming clothes, time of development, the method of making the incense mixture for perfuming clothes, the method of perfuming clothes, the tools, the gender of perfumer, and the type of herbs and spices.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.64-87
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• 2017

Dahoe is a traditional braid in Joseon Dynasty. There are many Dahoe artifacts, which can give us a glimpse of the costume, culture, and life of that era. The study of Dahoe is necessary in various fields, but it is difficult because this manufacturing technique has been passed down from hand to hand. Few studies have been done so far. This research examines the manufacturing technique of KwangDahoe which is passed down by Maedeupjang (Decorative Knotting) and is generally used for knotting and/or tying objects. The main characteristic of TieKwangDahoe, made through the same method as WonDahoe, is the square hole in the middle. It was impossibile to remake the original braid because there is no confirmed number of the strand. Especially it is very difficult to do conservation and restoration on serious degradation state of the fiber. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze the non-destructive manufacturing techniques method for Dahoe and assess their applicability. First, we analyzed the artifacts' manufacturing technique based on the database of the Dahoe's manufacturing technique. In order to do that, we undertook schematization, restoration, morphological analyzation of the Dahoe. And then, X-ray CT scans were performed to improve the reliability of the DB. These results of scanning were interpreted based on the manufacturing technique. The selected Tie-KwangDahoe on the sword for the study are artifacts including artistic value and symbolism in Joseon Dynasty. Based on the analysis of the manufacturing technique, we found that both artifacts were made of 20-strand braid of single cross according to the length-scale measure. It was manufactured using 8-strand on left-right side, 12-strand on front-back side by the braiding manufacturing technique method Finally, this research suggests non-destructive analysis method of Dahoe's manufacturing technique is based on the database and the analysis results. I hope this research can be useful in various professional fields of Dahoe in the future. Moreover, I hope this can be of any help in preserving Korean cultural heritage.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.4-25
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• 2013

Goli-su is the innovative special kind of the embroidery technique, which combines twining and interlacing skill with metal technology and makes the loops woven to each other with a strand. The loops floating on the space of the ground look like floating veins of sculpture and give people the feeling of the openwork. This kind of characteristic has some similarities with the lacework craft of Western Europe in texture and technique style, but it has its own features different from that of Western Europe. It mainly represents the splendid gloss with metallic materials in the Embroidered cloth, such as gold foil or wire. In the 10th century, early days of Goryo, we can see the basic Goli-su structure form of its initial period in the boy motif embroidery purse unearthed from the first level of Octagonal Nine-storied Pagoda of Woljeong-sa. In the Middle period of Joseon, there are several pieces of Goli-su embroidered relic called "Battle Flag of Goryo", which was taken by the Japanese in 1592 and is now in the Japanese temple. This piece is now converted into altar-table covers. In 18~19th century, two pairs of embroidered pillows in Joseon palace were kept intact, whose time and source are very accurate. The frame of the pillows was embroidered with Goli-su veins, and some gold foil papers were inserted into the inside. The triangle motif with silk was embroidered on the pillow. The stitch in the Needle-Looped embroidery is divided into three kinds according to comprehensive classification: 1. Goli-su ; 2. Goli-Kamgi-su ; 3. Goli-Saegim-su. From the 10th century newly establishing stage to the 13th century, Goli-su has appeared variational stitches and employed 2~3 dimensional color schemes gradually. According to the research of this thesis, we can still see this stitch in the embroidery pillow, which proves that Goli-suwas still kept in Korea in the 19th century. And in terms of the research achievement of this thesis, Archetype technology of Goli-su was restored. Han Sang-soo, Important Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 80 and Master of Embroidery already recreated the Korean relics of Goli-su in Joseon Dynasty. The Needle-Looped embriodery is the overall technological result of ancestral outstanding Metal craft, Twining and Interlacing craft, and Embroidery art. We should inherit, create, and seek the new direction in modern multi-dimensional and international industry societyon the basis of these research results. We can inherit the long history of embroidering, weaving, fiber processing, and expand the applications of other craft industries, and develop new advanced additional values of new dress material, fashion technology, ornament craft and artistic design. Thus, other crafts assist each other and broaden the expressive field to pursue more diversified formative beauty and beautify our life abundantly together.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.32
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• pp.209-241
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• 2016

"Women's Nong-ak (農樂, Traditional Korean music performed by farmers)" was born together with "Maiden group." This study focuses on the reason why women appeared as principal agents of Nong-ak which was almost exclusive to men previously and especially, on the appearance of women Nong-ak Artists who was previously worked in Traditional Drama Troupe. This study empirically deals with details of activities of Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak troupes and Girls' (少女) Nong-ak troupes through newspaper articles. Women Nong-ak Artists enjoyed popularity with their peculiar attractions. Participating in Nong-ak contests and collecting money for their performances, women Nong-ak Artists learned their skills form masters of Woodo Nong-ak and attracted attention with their colorful costumes. Women of Nong-ak circle especially saw through the trend of the time, expanded their arena of activities and exercised flexibility and ability to react quickly to changing situations while mixing with various genres. In particular, young girls were mobilized to show value and marketability of Korean culture as cultural medium who decorated "Pure Nong-ak art stage." They were no different from "Pretty dolls dancing like angels" who could not purse their interest and economic benefit or incite political cause and their patrons were domestic and overseas political figures. Women artists, who put Nong-ak on the stage in the name of Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak troupes and Girls' (少女) Nong-ak after the liberation from Japanese colonial rule, contributed to expansion of market base. Women Nong-ak artists, who dominated a century in such troupes as Sadangpae, Hyuprulsa, Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak troupes, Girls' (少女) Nong-ak troupes and Women Nong-ak troupes, were the very heroines who overturned the conventions of "male predominance (男尊女卑)" which filled Nong-ak arena and cultivated a new tradition of Nong-ak culture.

• The Journal of Korean Philosophical History
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• no.38
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• pp.63-96
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• 2013

$L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙) was one of the famous philosophers during the Southern Song period, and is called one of DongNamSanXian(東南三賢) together with ZhuXi(朱熹) and ZhangShi(張?). With his profound knowledge transmitted and uphold by JiaXue(家學), $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙) established his learning system, interacting with scholars of those days. Principally, $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙)'s XinLun(心論) was based on Mengzi(孟子)' theory of LiangXin(良心) and BenXin(本心). $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙) explained the meaning of such a conscience through ChuXin(初心) and Inner NeiXin(內心). According to $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙), ChuXin(初心) arouses when one encounters external things, and this one's intention enables us to make the right judgments over the outside objects. NeiXin(內心) means LiangXin(良心) and BenXin(本心) that recovered the ability of moral awareness. The important significances of $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙)'s XinLun(心論) are XinWai WuDao(心外無道), and XinWaiWuTian(心外無天). Through these, $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙) emphasized that Tian(天), Dao(道), and Li(理) are one. $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙) arranged a meeting of EHuSi(鵝湖寺), and exerted efforts to negotiate the academic differences between ZhuXi(朱熹) and LuJiuyuan(陸九淵). However, compared with LuJiuyuan(陸九淵) who asserted FaMingBenXin(發明本心), $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙) put the emphasis on DaoWenXue(道問學) with self-awareness of conscience. Meanwhile, $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙) valued much of Jing(敬) like ZhuXi(朱熹). But, to $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙), Jing(敬) meant WuJianDuan(無間斷) of ChunYiBuZa(純一不雜) DaoDeXin(道德心), and implied the same as Cheng(誠). $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙) stressed the reading and pursuit of study, however, he also asserted that Li(理) could be understood and realized through self-awareness of one's mind and its reflection, and working without interruption. $L{\ddot{u}}Zuqian$(呂祖謙)'s academic tradition of the XinXueDe XueFeng(心學的 學風), which reveals through compromise and confrontation with ZhuXi(朱熹), can be said that it will have a significant meaning of idealism of dispute in the Southern Song period.

• Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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• v.105 no.3
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• pp.294-302
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• 2016

This study was conducted to evaluate aboveground tree biomass and nutrient (C, N, P, K, Ca, and Mg) response of tree components by high (1,933 trees $ha^{-1}$) and low (1,200 tree $ha^{-1}$) stand densities in a 27-year-old Quercus glauca plantation. The study site was located in Goseong county, Gyeongsangnam-do, southern Korea. Total 12 trees (6 high and 6 low stand densities) were cut to develop allometric equations and to measure nutrient concentration of tree components. Stand density-specific allometric equations in the high and low stand densities were significant (P < 0.05) in tree components with diameter at breast height (DBH). Also, generalized allometric equations could be applied to estimate tree biomass regardless of the difference of stand density because of no significant effect on slope of stand density-specific allometric equations. Aboveground tree biomass estimated by the allometric equations was significantly higher in the high stand density (177 Mg $ha^{-1}$) than in the low stand density (114 Mg $ha^{-1}$). However, nutrient concentration of tree components was not significantly affected by the difference of stand density. Nutrient stocks in tree components were not significantly between the high stand density and the low stand density, except for the N and P stocks of stem wood. These results indicate that aboveground tree biomass could be significantly affected by stand density, but nutrient concentration among the tree components was not affected by the difference of stand density in a Quercus glauca plantation.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.23
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• pp.25-37
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• 2008

This study focuses on identification of mineralogical and geochemical characteristics and interpretation of raw material sources for prehistoric chlorite beads excavated from Geoseokri site in Boseong and Buntori site in Haenam, Korea. These prehistoric beads consist of three grayish blue ring-shaped beads, one dark green tubular bead and one greenish black tubular bead that show acicular-columnar and fibrous microtexture. The beads are composed of $SiO_2$, $Al_2O_3$, MgO and FeO as majors and a trace amount of $K_2O$, CaO and Na_2O$. Mineral species is mostly chlorite with a small amount of quartz and feldspar. Quantitative analysis indicates that the grayish blue ring-shaped beads and the dark green tubular bead belong to clinochlore and the greenish black tubular bead does to the boundary between clinochlore and sheridantie. Chlorite is a hydrous phyllosilicate mineral and it shows various microtexture of acicular, sheeted, earthy, granular andfibrous shapes. As its hardness is 2, chlorite is easily engraved due to its softness. It has aesthetic worthy as it shows green, black and greenish gray colors and pearly to greasy luster as well. These factors would lead to the extensive use of chloritic beads as ornaments from prehistoric times. Though the mineral sources of the chlorite beads can be found in central western region of Chungnam and Iwon of Hamnam, those areas are too distant from the two relic sites. Instead, chlorite ores commonly occur as altered products in wall rock alteration zone of every hydrothermal deposit. Therefore, it is probable that raw materials of chlorite were supplied from neighboring hydrothermal environment rather than far deposits. The result needs further study to verify raw material provenance interpretation, supply, manufacture and distribution on the basis of archaeological points of view.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.334-365
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• 2010

Mother-of-Pearl craftwork sketch involves the whole process of making a piece of work. Therefore, it includes types, forms, sizes, and patterns of the work. Some information about when and by whom those works were manufactured and who ordered them are still found in some sketches. This paper seeks to find out popular types and patterns of the works in each period and its demand and the way of supply by examining the collection of approximately 1700 Mother-of-Pearl craftwork sketches from the period of Japanese colonization up to the present time, which are owned by Mr. Song Bang-wung, Important Intangible Cultural Heritage no.10. Typical patterns of sketches are the hua-jo(花鳥 : Flowers and Birds), the Sakunja(四君子 : Four Gracious Plants), cultural treasures, figures in folk tales, 'Su-bok(壽福)' characters, and landscape. The pattern sketches have changed according to the circumstances of Korean society. During the period of Japanese colonization from the 1920s to the 1940s the manufacture and the supply and demand of Mother-of-Pearl craftworks were controled by the Japanese government. As a result, many of the patterns were adjusted to the Japanese taste. Most of its customers were also Japanese. During the 1950s after Independence the American Military Forces appeared as new customers due to the Korean War. Thus, the traditional Korean patterns to decorate accessories adored by American soldiers gained popularity. Foreign Mother-of-Perls were imported from the late 1960s to the 1970s. They were bigger and more colorful than those of Korean and it enabled the sketches bigger and the patterns more various. The most popular pattern in this period was the pattern of cultural treasures, such as an image of Buddha, metalcraft works, porcelains and pagodas. In terms of a technique, new techniques, such as engraving and rusting were introduced. There was a great demand for Mother-of-Pearl craftworks in the 1970s as people were highly interested in them. They were entirely made to order and there was a large demand from diverse organizations, furniture dealers and individuals. And the Mother-of-Pearl craftwork was in full flourish in the 1970s due to the country's economic development and the growth of national income. Mass production of the works was possible and the professional designers who drew patterns actively worked in this period. The favor of Mother-of-Pearl craftworks declined in the 1980s since the built-in furniture and the Western style of furniture became prevalent due to the change of housing into apartments. But it seemed that the manufacture of Mother-of-Pearl craftworks revived for once the technique of Kunum-jil(끊음질 : cutting and attaching) became popular in Tong-young(統營). After the 1990s, however, the making of Mother-of-Pearl craftworks gradually declined as the need of them decreased. Now it barely maintains its existence by a few artisans.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.32-48
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• 2022

This study analyzed the construction pattern and historical reality of Gwallamji Pond(觀纜池) in the rear garden of Changdeokgung Palace(昌德宮), which has been received as distorted information and has not received sufficient attention. The main topics consisted of the construction period and reorganization in the pond garden, changes in the installed wooden bridge, the existence of the berthing facility, and whether the plan shape was deformed. The main results of this study can be summarized as follows. First, the Gwallamji Pond was already completed before the Gapsin Coup, which occurred in the year of King Gojong. Since then, the Gwallamji Pond area, including the surrounding facilities, has been neglected for a while and was extensively renovated in the early 1900s. It is difficult to find a clear basis for the suspension and resumption of the Gwallamji Pond construction proposed in the previous discussion. Second, three types of wooden bridges with different shapes and structures were installed sequentially in the Gwallamji Pond. In particular, the second wooden bridge, which installed after the maintenance of the Gwallamji Pond, is judged to be the pontoon bridge depicted in Donggweoldohyeong(東闕圖形), and the railing of the bridge was decorated to symbolize the imperial family of the Korean Empire. The third wooden bridge, which appeared intensively in Japanese colonial era, was a Japanese-style bridge. Third, a berth facility for boarding and disembarking existed on the eastern shore of the Gwallamji Pond. The berth facility is also described in Donggweoldohyeong and it remained until the Japanese colonial period. However, as the maintenance work of the Gwallamji Pond was carried out several times after liberation, the berth facility was gradually damaged, and there are no traces left now. Fourth, The Gwallamji Pond was originally constructed in a planar shape of the Korean Peninsula similar to the present. It is necessary to reconsider the conventional theory that the Gwallamji Pond, made in the shape of a gored-shaped bottle, was renovated in the shape of the Korean Peninsula in Japanese colonial era. Even when the term Pandoji Pond(半島池) first appeared, there was no view that the Japanese intentionally modified the Gwallamji Pond.