• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1727-1738
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• 2002

세계화, 국제화, 개방화 시대에 살고 있는 우리가 통과의례나 전통 명절과 같은 특별한 행사에 의례복으로 한복을 애용하는 것은 한복이 한국의 문화적 이미지를 강하게 간직하고 있는 한국적 조형물 중의 하나이기 때문이다. 더우기 의례복은 특별한 행사 자체를 위해 착용되었던 만큼 당시대의 내 적 가치를 가장 현저하게 표출하고 있는 복식으로 인정 할 수 있기 때문이다. 본 연구의 목적은 시대 적으로 현대 전통 한복의 기본 형 식을 제공한 조선시대와 그 이후의 복식 중에서 특히 분명한 착용동기와 목적, 복식을 통해 나타내고자 하는 상징성 등을 함축하고 있는 아동용 의례복을 대상으로 복식의 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재 등의 조형 요소를 고찰하는 것이다. 또한 양식적 특성을 살펴보고, 그러한 조형적 특성을 형성시킨 당시대의 사상적 가치를 추론해 보는 것이다. 구체 적인 연구 방법은 먼저 관련된 문헌 고찰을 통한 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 아동용 의례복의 범주를 설정하고 현재 보전중인 실물과 또는 사진, 풍속화에 나타난 복식 자료들을 수집하였다. 그리고 당시대의 사상적 배경에 대한 고찰을 병행하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치를 추출해 보았다. 연구 결과 양식적 특징으로는 남아의 두루마기나 전복 그리고 쓰개류 등에서 기능성을 고려한 변형적 양식이 나타나고 있었다. 색채 역시 음양 보색이나, 오행색을 바탕으로 한 기본색의 구성 이외 에도 소매나 섶에 응용된 색의 배열이나 맞깃 전복의 깃에 나타난 색의 조화는 다양한 색의 조형미를 표현하고 있었다. 특히 색동 등에 나타난 오행색의 배열, 안감과 겉감, 상의와 하의, 외의와 내의에 사용된 색의 조화는 미의식에 관한 문화적 가치를 추론해 볼 수 있다. 더우기 장식 표현에 주로 쓰인 자연물 문양이나 글자 문양은 당시의 지배 사상이 지향하는 덕목 이외에도 전통적으로 내재된 수명과 복록, 부귀와 영화에 대한 내적 가치들을 반영하는 조형적 상징들이라 할 수 있다. 소재는 비교적 계절을 고려하여 사용되고 있었지만 의례적 성격을 지닌 외의나 쓰개류의 경우 계절적 구분을 고려하지 않은 경우도 많이 나타나고 있었다. 장신구의 경우는 많이 사용되는 것은 아니나 역시 상징적 인 가치를 표현하는 실물들을 미적으로 재구성한 사례들이 나타나고 있었다. 이상의 연구를 통해 아동용 전통 의례복은 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재, 장신구 등에서 양식의 다양성과 변형들을 알 수 있었다. 또한 적극적인 내적 가치의 상징들을 복식을 통해 표현하고 있었음을 알 수 있었다. 현대 복식의 디자인에 있어 아동용 의례복에 나타난 창조적인 양식의 변형과 다양성 그리고 복식을 통한 내적 가치의 반영 등이 현대 사회와 조화를 이룬 실질적인 복식 디자인 제시 및 창작에 작은 영감으로 작용하길 바란다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.12
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• pp.1761-1771
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• 2007

The artificial exaggeration of stage costumes is thought to be one of the major techniques of enhancing dramatic expression on stage, whichever for visual impact or symbolic effect of dramatization. In the history of stage dressing, a variety of styles has been tried using different materials and production techniques. This may be reviewed as an effort to express dramatic effects more effectively. As this trend became obvious in Europe after the Second World War, this study analyzes the stage costume to deepen our understandings of the role of costumes in expressing dramatic effects. To accomplish this, we first summarized the history of stage costume materials and technical advance and chose five major cases representing the history of stage costume since the Second World War in Europe based on aesthetic and creative aspects: 1) Simplified stage of Jacques Copeau, 2) Stylized stage of Bertolt Brecht, 3) Essential stage of Grotowski, 4) Measured stage of Robert Wilson the Master, and 5) Post-dramatic stage of Philippe $Decoufl\'{e}$. In each of particular case, the historical, material and dramatic contexts were examined as well as different material-effects. The results are as followings: 1) Costume for Copeau's simplified stage: its simplicity plays a supporting role to the gesture of actors(intensifying effect). 2) Costume for Brecht's stylized stage: the artificial stylization integrates into the play with the importance approximately equal to the actors's acting. 3) Costumes for Grotowski's essential stage: costumes disappeared to emphasize only actor's presence on stage. 4) Costumes for Robert Wilson's measured stage: costumes made concrete impression to the extent of obtaining the same importance of actor's body among other stage art elements(lighting, sound, props, actor, text, etc). 5) Costumes for Decoufle's post-dramatic stage: costumes in the era of multi technology possess multi functional aspects that surrogate actors' body. This study suggests that stage costumes take an important part in dramaturgy to the extent that the intent of dramaturgy can be induced enough from stage costume. Thus, costume makers are expected to incorporate the appropriate dramatic factor more than before.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.206-225
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• 2019

This paper examines the trade and development aspects of glass mirrors through the literature records of the Joseon Dynasty, and studies the characteristics of existing glass mirror crafts by referring to the terms and types shown in the literature. The glass mirror in the records had called western mirrors(西洋鏡, 洋鏡), glass mirrors(玻璃鏡, 玻瓈鏡), stone mirrors(石鏡), etc. Glass mirrors were imported mainly through trade with Russia and the Qing Dynasty since the 17th century and were banned from importation in the late Joseon Dynasty. These mirrors were something new that caused a great stirring in Joseon society in the 18th century, and in the 19th century, it grew larger as a commodity needed for everyday life, especially with trade with Japan. At that time, glass mirrors were used for various purposes, such as installing large glass at a store, which were not the standard mirror usage of confirming one's appearance. These mirrors surprised Koreans in Joseon who experienced them at Yanjing Liulichang(燕京 琉璃廠) in the 18th and 19th centuries. As a result, the demand for glass mirrors rapidly increased and quickly surpassed that of bronze mirrors. Consequentially, new crafts using glass mirrors instead of bronze mirrors in Joseon began to be produced and used after the 18th century. In particular, integrated flat boards of glass mirrors were developed as crafts used indoors. It was convenient to use the hair comb box, a long-time presence in Joseon society, with the bronze mirror. This kind of mirror remained apparent in various genre paintings, including the Taepyeong Seongsido(太平城市圖, 'A Thriving City in a Peaceful Era') collected the National Museum of Korea which reflect its populism of the times. Also, the Mirror Stand(鏡臺) used in the Qing Period was produced in Joseon, but there was a difference in the way of making the drawers and box shapes between two nations. On the other hand, the Face Mirror(面鏡) was made to look at the face. Various crafts made with the aesthetic sense of Joseon, such as the ox horn inlaying craft technique, were produced with auspicious designs. In the 19th century, glass mirrors were imported from European countries, such as France, Denmark, the Netherlands, and the United Kingdom, however after the end of the 19th century Japanese crafts were popular. Glass mirrors, which were popular in the Meiji and Taisho eras of Japan, were imported and also the Mirror Screen(鏡屛) using large glass mirrors were used. In particular, the mirror screen had developed wood furniture since the previous time, which were used for banquets and large spaces, such as the drawing room, and were imported from China and Japan. In addition, the western architectural effect of attaching a mirror to the wall was also attempted to adjust the brightness of the space and introduce another image and scenery in the mirror. This was done at Deoksugung Palace's Seokjojeon.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.172-193
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• 2013

This study examines the production techniques and raw materials shown in the Korean dried-lacquer statues of Buddha through a careful observation of the Seated Dried-lacquer Bodhisattva Statue from the late Goryeo Dynasty which is currently possessed by Okura Museum of Art in Tokyo. As a method of study, the X-ray data and the results from a field survey were combined to analyze the production techniques and the characteristics of raw materials. Based on this analysis, a hypothesis was established on the production process and verified through a reenactment of the actual production process. Then, the characteristics of the techniques applied to each process and the raw materials were recorded in detail. Specifically, the dried lacquer techniques and the raw materials were estimated based on the results of naked-eye observation in comparison with the literature, especially the records of "Xiu Shi Lu" written by Huang Cheng of the Ming Dynasty which is considered as 'the textbook of lacquer techniques.' The raw materials used in the production of the traditional Korean lacquerware inlaid with mother-of-pearl were also referenced. As a result, it was found that the features of production techniques and the raw materials found in the Statue at Okura Museum of Art have many similarities with those of the Seated Dried-lacquer Statue of Lohan (Arhat) from Yuanfu 2 Nian Ming (1098) of the Song Dynasty which is currently at the Honolulu Museum of Art. In particular, the similarities include that the interior of the statue being vacant because the clay and the wood core were not replaced after being removed from the prototype, that the complete form was made in the clay forming stage to apply the lacquer with baste fiber fabric, that the clay and the wood core were removed through the bottom of the statue, and that the modeling stage was omitted and the final coat over the statue is very thin. Additionally, decorating with ornaments like Bobal and Youngrak made of plastic material was a technique widely popular in the Song Dynasty, suggesting that the Seated Dried-lacquer Bodhisattva Statue in Okura Museum of Art was greatly affected by the production techniques of the Dried-lacquer Buddha Statue from the Song Dynasty. There is no precise record on the origin and history of the Korean Dried-lacquer Buddha Statues and the number of existing works is also very limited. Even the records in "Xuanhe Fengshi Gaoli Tujing" that tells us about the origin of the Dried-lacquer Buddha Statue from the Yuan Feng Period (1078~1085) do not indicate the time of transmission. It is also difficult to trace the clear route of transmission of production techniques through existing Dried-lacquer Buddha Statues. Fortunately, this study could at least reveal that the existing Dried-lacquer Buddha Statues of Korea, including the one at Okura Museum of Art, have applied the production techniques rather differently from those used in the production of Japanese Datsukatsu Dried-lacquer Buddha Statues that have been known as the standard rule in making dried-lacquer statues of Buddha for a long time.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.198-221
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• 2009

Royal tombs of Joseon dynasty are the crystallization of history, ideology, culture, art, architecture, and ritual ceremony of Joseon dynasty, all mingled in one. So, they are very significant symbols showing 500 years of dynastic history as a whole. Among various factors comprising a royal tomb, stone figures surrounding grave mound are special factors as a symbol protecting it. Further among them, twelve zodiac images arrayed nearest to the grave mound represent the core of the function. Images of twelve zodiac signs originated from the tombs of the Unified Silla Kingdom are certain to hold important role and position in the construction of royal tombs, judging from huge scale and excellent sculptural art of them. However, both their scale and form had been gradually simplified in Goryeo and Joseon dynasty, thus the importance of them has been underestimated compared to other stone figures Images of twelve zodiac signs were very important factors which decorated royal tombs both as a protective role and as a concept of direction. Their historicity and symbolism cannot be neglected in that they had been transmitted to the royal tombs of Joseon dynasty. In this paper, images of twelve zodiac signs expressed in the royal tombs of Joseon dynasty are classified into 3 forms, and reviewed the origin and development of them for each period. They could be classified into 3 forms ; civil vassals with human body and head, civil vassals with human body and head wearing hat decorated with zodiac animals, Chinese characters of either zodiac signs or either a combination of 10 calendar signs and 8 trigrams. The above 3 forms originated from China and became a favorite motif to decorate the royal tombs from early Joseon period until late Joseon by replacing each other and thus changing along the course of the dynasty. In the meantime, we can see a unique character in the images of twelve zodiac signs of royal tombs of Joseon dynasty. In some cases, 24 directions are expressed in which 10 calender signs and 8 trigrams are composed altogether. Images of twelve zodiac signs in the royal bombs of Joseon dynasty are very significant as evidences by which we can confirm uniqueness and tradition of Korean tomb system transmitted from Unified Silla period.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.280-301
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• 2021

Chogak has been regarded as originating from the paintings decorating building elements. Various curved shape drawings that were first seen in the paintings of Goguryeo tomb murals evolved into the vine patterned Dancheong of Geuklakjeon in Bongjeongsa. Cheomcha of Geuklakjeon was chiseled with Yeonhwadusik relievo at the bottom on top of Dancheong, and this was the beginning of Cheomcha-Chogak. Also, Cheomcha, which was carved with a preliminary vine patterned Chogak in Daeungjeon in Bongjeongsa, opened the era of engraving Chogak directly on the surface of structural elements. Since then, vine patterned Chogak was a significant decoration technique for the Cheomcha of traditional wooden construction for a long time. Because Jeongjagak is a structure that was continuously built between the end of the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and the late Joseon Dynasty, the transition of Cheomcha-Chogak over time can be seen through Jeongjagak architecture. The early Cheomcha-Chogak presents stems that climb up (Upbound-type) towards the headpiece on a column, while stems of Chogak later reversed direction to descend (Downbound-type) from the headpiece. This study examined the transition process and reasons for the change, with a focus on the findings above, and identified a new type of Chogak that is unrelated to the direction type and was adopted during the transition from Upbound-type to Downbound-type. The new type appeared when the Jeongjagaks for the Royal Tomb of Kyeongjo and those of the Injo were built, and it matches with the transitional period wherein lotus vanishes from Hwaban-Chogak. The study also inferred that the direction change of Cheomcha-Chogak stems was caused by the separation of vine patterned Chogak, carved with a two-stepped inner Ikgon, into both upward and downward from the headpiece, and this led to the changes that manifested as the inside of Choikgong being the Downbound-type Chogak and the variegated vine patterned Chogak of Choikgong affecting the direction of Cheomcha-Chogak. This is the follow-up study of "A Study on the Hwaban-Chogak of the Neungwon-Jeongjagak," a paper published in 2018, and is limited in n that Cheomcha, the focus of the research, is just one of the construction elements of Jeongjagak. The entirety ofChogak cannot be understood only by observing Cheomcha.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.4
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• pp.110-130
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• 2023

New years' rites serve a religious function to wish for well-being during the year by bidding farewell to the previous year and welcoming the next. In Japan, in mid-December, to welcome Toshigami, kadomatsu, and shimenawagazari are prepared, as well as osechi ryori to be eaten at the beginning of the year. On New Year's Day, people go to shrines and bow to the gods while saying Hatsumode (初詣). On the fifteenth day of the first month, in the course of a rite called Dondoyaki, all the decorations used in the first month and the amulet used in the previous year are burned. In Korea, when the Lunar New Year approaches, people prepare for their ancestral rites and clean their houses. On the first day of the new year, people hold ancestral rites for their ancestors. There are many different seasonal rites, taking place from the beginning of the year to the full moon. In China, Danwonban (團圓飯), in which the whole family sits together and eats on New Year's Eve, is important. Lights are brightly lit up all night, and the sound of firecrackers outside rings out loudly. On the door, the word chun-ryun is attached to wish for prosperity in the new year. According to the cycle of the four seasons, the first lunar month contains a high proportion of the seasonal rites that are repeated every year. The first month represents the beginning of a year, and various rituals are performed in order to wish for good health and abundance during the coming year. In addition, the "folk religious world view" is integral to annual new years' rites, so it is not difficult to understand the religious character and structure of the Korean, Chinese, and Japanese annual ceremonies. This study examines the current status of annual new years' rites in Korea, China, and Japan, and how the rites are structured according to the inflection points in the year. In addition, religious characteristics are reviewed in terms of gods, predictions, and fertility prayers, exorcisms, health, and restoration. In this way, it can be seen that various religious elements such as shamanism, agricultural faith, ancestor worship, Shintoism, Taoism, Confucianism, and Buddhism can be witnessed in the annual new years' rites of Korea, China, and Japan. In addition, differences in the presence or absence of these are shown to depend on the country.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1681-1692
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• 2001

본 연구는 광복 이후 현재까지 첫돌 복식 변화를 시대적으로 고찰, 그 변화 양상과 영 향 요인을 규명하는 것을 목적으로 하고 있다. 연구 방법은 문헌 고찰과 사진 자료를 통한 내용 분석을 주로 하였다. 더불어 자료의 보충을 위해 첫돌 의례와 관련된 주변 인물들-가족, 기성 아동 한복 유통 상인, 상업적 사진사 등-의 면접 조사도 병행하였다. 이상의 연구를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1940년대 중반∼50년대 초에는 해방 이후 혼란과 전란으로 인한 물자의 부족으로 첫돌 의례의 명분은 남아있으나 복식 문화는 공백기를 맞는다. 1950년대 중반이후 60년대 전반기는 미국의 경제 원조와 섬유 공업 활성화로 의료의 공급이 원활하여 전기에 비해 의례적 의미를 지닌 첫돌 복식의 착용이 가능해 졌다. 전통 한복을 기본으로 한 위에 서양식 복식 품목들이 섞여서 나타나고 있다 60년대 후반에서 1970년대의 두드러진 양상은 기성복 산업 의 발달로 전문적 인 기성복 시장이 형성되었고 이는 기성복화 된 첫돌 복식의 일습 개념을 등장시키게 하였다. 또한 한복이 예복화 되는 경 향이 두드러지게 나타났던 시기로 70년대 후반의 칼라 필름의 보급은 금박과 자수와 같은 다양한 재료와 재단 방법을 사용한 장식화 된 첫돌 복식의 사용을 가속화 시 켰다. 특히 70년대 중반에 소수의 일반에게 입혀졌던 궁중복식의 하나인 당의가 소매없는 당의로 바뀌어 여아의 돌옷으로 입혀지기 시작하였다. 1980년대 전반기는 칼라 TV의 보급, 비디오 촬영의 보편화로 한복이던 양복이던 일습화 된 첫돌 복식이 대중적으로 정착하게 되었다. 후반기에는 국내의 국제적인 행사의 유치와 전통 복식 소개를 위한 전시들을 계기로 왕실 복식에 대한 관심이 고조되었다. 이로 인해 여아에게 소매없는 당의를 입히고 남아에게 용포를 입히는 유행이 가속화되었다. 또한 서양식 예복을 입히는 유행이 시작되었다. 90년대에 들어와 아기 전문사진점의 등장은 1 회적인 첫돌 의례에 한복과 서양식 예복, 일상복 등을 다양하게 착용시키는 계기를 가져오게 하였다. 이상과 같은 다양한 변화 양상에도 불구하고 첫돌을 기념하기 위해 특별한 옷을 마련하고자 했으며, 그 복식의 구성 이 전통적인 일습 개념을 꾸준히 지향해 온 경향을 보여주고 있다. 반면 최근 과열된 아동 산업은 보다 다양한 복식을 입혀서 촬영한 사진으로 특별하게 꾸민 상업적인 기념물들을 남겨주게 하고 있다. 비록 특별한 옷을 준비하여 아동에게 입히는 행위는 유사한 표현 양태이나 지나치게 많은 옷을 갈아 입히는 표현 방식은 지양되어야할 것이다

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.22
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• pp.87-98
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• 2008

Microstructures and chemical compositions of 24 bronze mirrors recovered from the Korean peninsula were examined using the scanning electron microscope equipped with the energy dispersive spectrometer in an effort to characterize the treatments applied on their surface. Their provenance and chronology are mostly unspecified except for two objects from a Koryo burial site. In antiquity the surface of bronze mirrors was frequently finished by mere polishing when their tin content was high enough to guarantee the required reflectivity. In many cases, however, their surface was given a special treatment. The most typical treatment was to coat the surface with tin in two different processes referred to as wipe-tinning and amalgam-tinning. In wipe-tinning only tin was used, but in amalgam-tinning tin and mercury were used together. The surface was often coated with mercury in a process known as mercury-polishing. The present mirrors showed that all these techniques were in fact practiced, not only on the reflective surface but, in some cases, on the decorative surface. The detection of mercury played a crucial role in the assessment of a specific technique applied in each mirror. Mercury often remained in the substrate in the form of sulfide and thereby allowed the method of surface treatment to be estimated even when the coated layer was completely lost. The future study is expected to uncover the regional and temporal variation of the surface treatments to the better understanding of bronze mirrors with respect to provenance and chronology.

• Journal of the Earthquake Engineering Society of Korea
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• v.9 no.3 s.43
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• pp.1-8
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• 2005

This paper describes a new objective methodology of seismic building damage assessment which is called Advanced Component Method(ACM). ACM is a major attempt to replace the conventional loss estimation procedure, which is based on subjective measures and the opinions of experts, with one that objectively measures both earthquake intensity and the response ol buildings. First, response of typical buildings is obtained analytically by nonlinear seismic static analysis, push-over analyses. The spectral displacement Is used as a measure of earthquake intensity in order to use Capacity Spectrum Method and the damage functions for each building component, both structural and non-structural, are developed as a function of component deformation. Examples of components Include columns, beams, floors, partitions, glazing, etc. A repair/replacement cost model is developed that maps the physical damage to monetary damage for each component. Finally, building response, component damage functions, and cost model were combined probabilistically, using Wonte Carlo simulation techniques, to develop the final damage functions for each building type. Uncertainties in building response resulting from variability in material properties and load assumptions were incorporated in the Latin Hypercube sampling technique. The paper also presents and compares ACM and conventional building loss estimation based on historical damage data and reported loss data.