• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2007

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.21-28
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• 2005

Arata Isozaki is one of the Japan's most important contemporary architects with an international reputation and has designed notable buildings in Asia, Europe, and the United States. Arata Isozaki is not an architect simply explained by a single ism or style, he has dedicated himself to express all diversities implied in different periods and styles. With an avant-garde spirit and enthusiastic creativity, he has devoted all his efforts to bring these diversities and complexities into his own architectural works. The study was aimed to identify the key characteristics implied in his overall design concept. Through the analysis of his works, the key features underlined in his works were characterized by five key words, which are tradition, eclectic, metaphor, metabolism and proportion. These five characteristics have been well Presented in his works individually and sometimes as a whole. His unique combination among these key design concepts has been impressed by many other architects in worldwide.

• 복식
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.14-25
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• 2009

This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제49권
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• pp.229-248
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• 2017

본 논고는 한국 시문학사에서 형이상학적 스캔들로 불리는 이상의 시편들에 구사 되는 프랑스어 연구이다. 이상의 시에서 프랑스어가 차지하는 비중은 식민지 시대에 일본어를 제외하면 가장 중요한 시어로 활용되고 있음을 알 수 있다. 우리의 연구는 기호적인 프랑스어, 기하학적이고 회화적인 프랑스어 활용에 대해 분석하고, 아울러 반복적이고 나열적인 단어와 문장의 구성에 응용되는 프랑스어에 대해 분석했다. 이상의 시편들에서 프랑스어의 활용은 비시어적인 기호의 혼용으로 볼 수 있으며, 전통적인 모국어와 시창작의 문법을 거부한 반문체적인 특성으로 나타남을 확인 할 수 있다. 그의 시에서 프랑스어는 아방가르드적인 시적 재료와 실험적인 창작기법의 중요한 요소 중에 하나로 나타난다. 시인에게 프랑스어는 언어의 범주를 벗어난 건축학적이고 회화적인 재료들과 함께 한글의 틀을 거부한 전혀 낯선 표현기법의 중요한 요소로 적용되고, 시인의 예술정신을 구현하기 위한 전위적인 언어로 응용되고 있다. 이상에게 프랑스어는 분열적이고 열패적인 자신의 내면적 갈등을 표현하기 위한 도구로 활용되고 있으며, 시인은 프랑스어가 갖는 기표와 기의적인 특성을 이용하여 근대한국문학에 유래를 찾아 볼 수 없는 실험적인 문체를 보여주었다. 이상의 시에서 프랑스어는 식민지하의 억눌린 자의식을 해방시킨 자유의 언어이며, 한국문학뿐만 아니라 세계문학 속에서도 유례를 찾아볼 수 없는 반문체적이고, 형이상학적인 시편들을 구성하는 중요한 요소로 볼 수 있다.