• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1727-1738
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• 2002

세계화, 국제화, 개방화 시대에 살고 있는 우리가 통과의례나 전통 명절과 같은 특별한 행사에 의례복으로 한복을 애용하는 것은 한복이 한국의 문화적 이미지를 강하게 간직하고 있는 한국적 조형물 중의 하나이기 때문이다. 더우기 의례복은 특별한 행사 자체를 위해 착용되었던 만큼 당시대의 내 적 가치를 가장 현저하게 표출하고 있는 복식으로 인정 할 수 있기 때문이다. 본 연구의 목적은 시대 적으로 현대 전통 한복의 기본 형 식을 제공한 조선시대와 그 이후의 복식 중에서 특히 분명한 착용동기와 목적, 복식을 통해 나타내고자 하는 상징성 등을 함축하고 있는 아동용 의례복을 대상으로 복식의 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재 등의 조형 요소를 고찰하는 것이다. 또한 양식적 특성을 살펴보고, 그러한 조형적 특성을 형성시킨 당시대의 사상적 가치를 추론해 보는 것이다. 구체 적인 연구 방법은 먼저 관련된 문헌 고찰을 통한 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 아동용 의례복의 범주를 설정하고 현재 보전중인 실물과 또는 사진, 풍속화에 나타난 복식 자료들을 수집하였다. 그리고 당시대의 사상적 배경에 대한 고찰을 병행하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치를 추출해 보았다. 연구 결과 양식적 특징으로는 남아의 두루마기나 전복 그리고 쓰개류 등에서 기능성을 고려한 변형적 양식이 나타나고 있었다. 색채 역시 음양 보색이나, 오행색을 바탕으로 한 기본색의 구성 이외 에도 소매나 섶에 응용된 색의 배열이나 맞깃 전복의 깃에 나타난 색의 조화는 다양한 색의 조형미를 표현하고 있었다. 특히 색동 등에 나타난 오행색의 배열, 안감과 겉감, 상의와 하의, 외의와 내의에 사용된 색의 조화는 미의식에 관한 문화적 가치를 추론해 볼 수 있다. 더우기 장식 표현에 주로 쓰인 자연물 문양이나 글자 문양은 당시의 지배 사상이 지향하는 덕목 이외에도 전통적으로 내재된 수명과 복록, 부귀와 영화에 대한 내적 가치들을 반영하는 조형적 상징들이라 할 수 있다. 소재는 비교적 계절을 고려하여 사용되고 있었지만 의례적 성격을 지닌 외의나 쓰개류의 경우 계절적 구분을 고려하지 않은 경우도 많이 나타나고 있었다. 장신구의 경우는 많이 사용되는 것은 아니나 역시 상징적 인 가치를 표현하는 실물들을 미적으로 재구성한 사례들이 나타나고 있었다. 이상의 연구를 통해 아동용 전통 의례복은 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재, 장신구 등에서 양식의 다양성과 변형들을 알 수 있었다. 또한 적극적인 내적 가치의 상징들을 복식을 통해 표현하고 있었음을 알 수 있었다. 현대 복식의 디자인에 있어 아동용 의례복에 나타난 창조적인 양식의 변형과 다양성 그리고 복식을 통한 내적 가치의 반영 등이 현대 사회와 조화를 이룬 실질적인 복식 디자인 제시 및 창작에 작은 영감으로 작용하길 바란다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.133-147
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• 2015

The aim of this study is to review the creative fashion installation of Henrik Vibskov, Danish designer. Its intention is to contribute useful information for more innovative fashion presentation. As a research method, document and case study were performed and his collections from 2004 F/W to 2016 S/S were analyzed. In fashion installation, the designer puts objects in meaningful spaces in order to convey a certain message, to make an integrated artwork, and to interact with spectator. It has been used in fashion exhibitions, as well as in the set design of fashion performance and fashion show. The results were as follows. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation has three features, which are 1)conceptual theme approach that communicates a twisted and metaphoric message, with a poetic and interesting show title, 2) surrealistic scenography that plays with fragmentation of the human body, clustering of plastic and symbolic objects, innovative color transformations, and visual trickery between figures and the background, and 3) setting for multisensory performance that makes spectators interact by making artistic objects and surroundings, which stimulates the five senses. Henrik Vibskov's fashion installation can exist as an independent artwork, and not just as a supporting piece for a fashion show. It has both artistic and fashionable values, and can be an effective fashion presentation communicating his conceptual fashion themes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.977-989
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to identify the effect of three clothing cues(jacket color, skirt color, and tone of dress) on female impressions. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The Stimuli are If color pictures manipulated with three clothing cues by drawing. The 7-point scale designed for visual evaluation of female impression formation includes 24 bipolar adjectives. The subjects were 192 undergraduate female students in Jinju city. The results of this study are as follow: As analyzing the impression of female figure by the jacket color, skirt color, and tone, three factors including youth${\cdot}$activity, attractiveness, and visibility were identified. Among these factors, youth${\cdot}$activity and attractiveness were proved to be more important. Some interaction effects of clothing cues were found. Jacket color and tone had significant effects on the impression of visibility. The combination of skirt color and tone had significant effects on youth${\cdot}$activity, attractiveness, and visibility.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.521-534
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• 2013

This study aims to identify the formative features of inflatable fashion that has changed its form or fulfilled specific functions by inserting air between fabrics or between clothes and the human body. Images of inflatable fashion images after the 1990s were collected from the literature and internet data and were analyzed based on the formative features of inflatable design. Through this analysis, it was determined that there were four formative features of inflatable fashion: First, inflatable fashion has functionality. General fashion also has functionality, but inflatable fashion has expanded functionalities such as an air bag effect or insulation due to injected air. Second, the formative potential. Inflatable fashion can be changed into different forms depending on the amount of air injected. Light-weighted air holds up the material of the clothes. So new forms that are different from conventional fashion, which gives inflatable fashion its formative potential, can be suggested. Third, aesthetic expansion. Inflatable fashion when its volume is expanded expresses the beauty of scale, or expresses a voluptuous beauty when part of human body is exaggerated. Fourth, it has an unconstructive characteristic. Space that is visible due to the transparent material of inflatable fashion expresses the intention of the designer to fulfill an unconstructive concept. In conclusion, the formative features of inflatable design have formative significances : practicality, aesthetic significance, semantics and technical significance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.21-36
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• 2000

History confirms that the eastern style was reflected in various parts of the western culture including clothing. In this paper we show some evidence that the influence of India on the French clothing during the neo-classical period(1789-1820) was substantial. Among others, the use of muslin, kashmir shawl and banyan during the period is greatly emphasized. The muslin imported from India was used as the textile for the chemise mown, a typical clothing during the period. Indian muslin was used, because it was of better quality compared to the muslin manufactured in England and France and it was not expensive. The kashmir shawl imported from kashmir in India was also a popular item in Europe not only because it matched well with simple color of chemise gown, but because it expressed the tone of Greek and Roman. Banyan which was most popular clothing worn by men in 18th century Europe originally came from India, which goes back to the Kaftan clothing in the Central Asia. Banyan was an informal home style clothing different from the conventional tight men's wear. It is true that the muslin, kashmir shawl, and banyan also became fashion items throughout the 19th and 20th century to the English and other European people. However, we limited our attention to the influence of India on France because we think the French Revolution and Napoleon's conquest of Egypt are far more important factors when considering the influence of Indian culture on Europe.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.97-109
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• 2012

Recently, it is concentrated world interest to Korea sensational (Hanryu) exited for not only sports but korean drama, K-pop in public culture. And G20 summit meeting and Winter Olympic open city selection. It is why practical information needs of Korean traditional cooking method and Korean culture, history and architecture and easy way to gain information. Korea has strong power for internet and nuke personal media mini home page, and cafe, blog. Blog is useful for spread information and has efficiency of speedy exchange information. In this study making blog contents of Korean traditional cultural information for not only Korean but foreigner. For method find blog has possibility of cultural information spreading tool, in literature and investigate usefulness and contents of naver blog having Korean traditional costume. In this study, it is helpful to open and construction personal blog of korean traditional costume and traditional culture contents.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.47-58
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• 2000

This paper examines how costume, as a means of communication, acts on an individual a society, and a nation by analyzing especially the costume-wearing activities of Gandhi, an Indian national leader, in the nineteenth-century India colonized by Britain. The results are as follows. 1. Change of costume in Gandhi's case corresponds with mental change. 2. Gandhi's costume-wearing activities show his social status. 3. Gandhi's costume acts as a means of communication ; it manipulates and rules social events, transforming social -political identities. Thus, costume has a close relation to man's life. And it is an important means of communication influencing man and man's environments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.97-104
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• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 양탄자 시대 Navajo 직물의 특징을 살펴보고, 특히 시간의 흐름에 따른 양탄자의 발달을 고찰하는데 있다. 연구방법은 양탄자 스타일의 특징 및 변화에 대한 문헌을 중심으로 조사하였고, 아리조나 주립박물관과 역사박물관을 견학하였으며 박물관 안에 있는 전문가들의 조언을 듣고 연구의 자료를 보완하였다. 또한 Navajo 직물 전시회에서 실제로 직물을 관찰하였고 주요직물들을 시각적 자료로 제시하였다. 양탄자시대는 20세기 초에 서구인들의 요구에 따라 새로운 형태의 Navajo 직물이 출현하면서 시작되었고 초기, 부흥기, 지역적 스타일시대로 구분되며 1940년대 이후 지금까지 지역적 스타일 양탄자시대에 해당한다. 즉 현재 Navajo인들은 거주 지역에 따라 스타일, 색상, 염색 방법, 디자인이 서로 다른 양탄자를 생산하며 대표적인 것으로는 Crystal, Chinle. Wide Ruin, Two Grey Hills, Tees Nos Pos. Ganado, Storm Pattern 양탄자의 일곱 가지를 들 수 있다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.117-128
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• 2002

This paper is extended the meaning and period of CONICAL HAT. That is, the race in Central Asia and Western Asia have worn the conical hat before Scytian appeared. One in conical hat puts on the clothes of two-piece style and has the lifestyle. a horse riding and nomadism. Besides the race originate into the Indo-European language family. On the whole the conical hat has relations with the region and is classified into two groups. Scytian and Klin-Yar style. First. the Scytian style of low hat forms the seam of two-piece and is discovered in Southern Russia. Central Asia and East-Northern Asia. Second, the Klin-Yar style of high hat forms the one piece and generally is discovered in Asia Minor and west of Altai. Until now the moaning of the conical hat has focused on the military. However, one in Central Asia and Western Asia is mostly a king. nobility and god. Therefore, in addition to the meaning of military. I estimate that the conical hat may be expressed as the noble status.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.902-910
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• 2008

A view of the Orientalism that sees the Orient as the inferior Other, characterized by the heterogenic, eccentric, backward, and passive features, has been internalized in the unconsciousness of Westerners. 'Orientalism' which is the cultural device and the system of discourse to put Asia in the fixed frame of dominance was the West European centered term, designating Southwest Asia including South Europe and North Africa as Orient, and contained the idea that non-Western society could progress only with the acceptance of Western civilization. Accordingly, it is need to use this term deliberately. In addition, even though the Asian Look of the West, borrowing the images and costume styles of Asia has lost the original mentality of Asia, it was not initiated from the perception that sees Asia as the inferior Other. Since the Asian Ethnic Look is the Western costume, borrowing the image of Orient and style by being fascinated by Oriental Aesthetics, the attributes of it are different from those of Orientalism. Therefore, it is not appropriate to designate the Asian Ethnic Look as 'Orientalism Fashion' or 'Oriental Look' except for some eccentric manipulation of Asia costume and image. Instead, it is desirable to exchange the term 'Asian Look', 'Asian Fashion', and 'Asian Ethnic Look' upon occasions or the name of individual nation or region can be referred to as preferred alternatives. Today, Asia including Korea is taking the initiative in the World Fashion as one of central axes of World Fashion Industry, and cannot be interpreted from the perspective of West Centrism. Now, it's time to dissolve the dichotomous prejudice of the West centrism on Asia's own strength.