• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.33-40
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• 2005

Gathering is method used to control fullness along a seam line. The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the quantitative research and qualitative method; the effect of gather and the types of gather drape. The experimental design consists of four factors: (l) three kinds of different weight and thickness of fabrics (2) three kinds of stitch densities (3) five kinds of ratio of gathers (4) three kinds of grain directions. Therefore one hundred thirty five (135) samples were made. And utilized SPSS WIN 10.0 Package in data analysis. The results of this study were as follows; First, after frequency analysis, side height, hem line width, node depth, node count, node width accorded with these result data recording. Second, after correlation analysis, side height related with front statements. Side height and entire visual was negative correlation. Hem line width, node depth, node count with section statements was negative correlation but node width at section statements was positive correlation. Third, after $k^2$ analysis, front picture parts getting excellent evaluation were 1st side height, 3rd hem line width, 4th node depth, 3rd node count, 3rd node width. And section illustration parts getting excellent evaluation were 4th side height, 1st hem line width, 2nd node depth, 3rd node count, 4th node width.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.77-84
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to know on the changes characteristics of eye brow forms of the wester women. A facial image which people recognize contents on changes of image according to various eye brow changes on the face. Various changes of image were seen by length, angle and thickness of eye brow types. The ancient Egyptians used antimony powder to blacken their brows huge black lines. In medieval times, women shaved both their eye brows and their hairlines to give a pure look. The early nineteenth century, brows were untweezed and natural. In the 1920s, when women started paying attention to their faces and their freedom, brows were tweezed, narrowed. In the 1930s, the idealized faces of Jean Harlow, Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo - narrow tracery of drawn on brows. The eyebrows is filled various shape of the 1950s. In the 1970s, the Disco Decade of Dreadful tastes, women were at their tweezers again, manicuring their brows. Brooke Shields's natural-looking brow would be an example of the 1980s. In the 1990s, the eyebrow designed by superstar makeup artists who determined the look of fashion model and screen star.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.7-14
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• 2003

Fabrics dyed with artemisia extract have quite natural and elegant tones of color. This study purposed to find the best one for dyeing among artemisia collected in the four seasons in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia. As for the method of research, the researcher dyed wool fabric and silk fabric with artemisia, and measured dyeability according to the number of repeats of dyeing, coloration by post-mordant, color fastness to washing, color fastness to dry cleaning and color fastness to light. The results are as follows. 1. In dyeing with artemisia, dyeability was improved as the number of repeat of dying increased, and it was higher in wool fabric than in silk fabric. 2. Among artemisia collected in the four seasons, autumn artemisia had dyeability much inferior to that of artemisia from the other seasons, and winter artemisia had the best dyeability. 3. According to the result of treating fabric with post-mordant, the dyeability was improved significantly, and coloration was most remarkable when copper and iron mordant were used. 4. The color fastness to washing and color fastness to dry cleaning of fabric mordanted with artemisia were as high as grade 4-5 and grade 5 respectively. The color fastness to light was highest in winter artemisia as grade 4.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.37-48
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• 2003

'Pattern' is of very unique nature in each and every country around the world, and its aesthetic feeling of 'pattern' has been handed down according to its nationality and cultural development process. That is, 'pattern' is ornament to symbolize each country's aesthetic standard or choice through some shape, reflecting social consciousness or religion philosophy. Mostly based upon literature survey and case study, this survey paper analytically compares oriental botanical pattern with occidental botanical figure, which has been influenced by Buddhism-Confucianism and Christian religion respectively. The results show that some patterns are commonly used in both area, while meaning differently in some cases: lotus (life), pomegranate (wealth and prosperity in orient, resurrection in occident), grape (fecundity in orient, wealth in occident), dangcho (fecundity in orient, victory in occident). And the other patterns look uniquely used either just in orient or only in occident. For instance, oriental area had its own patterns such as peony (meaning wealth and honour), peach (longevity), ume flower (happiness), orchid (fecundity); while occidental area used lily (purity), olive (peace), palm (victory), and so on. Interestingly, the botanical patterns were used as main patterns in orient whereas as minor in occident.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.83-96
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• 2004

This study was attempted to examine female consumers' cosmetics purchasing behavior of subdivided groups according to cosmetics shopping orientation in cosmetics purchasing and to suggest basic information applicable to marketing. The sample was taken from 698 women who were aged twenties through thirties living in Korea. A total of 400 questionnaires were used in the final statistical analysis using factor analysis, reliability test, ANOVA , Duncan test, and χ²-test. The results of this study were as follows: First, The dimensions of cosmetics shopping orientation were composed of hedonic shopping orientation and utilitarian shopping orientation. Second, Evaluative criteria of internet shopping mall were composed of price and promotion, convenient shopping, reputation. Third, three groups were classified after group analysis of two factors in female consumers' cosmetics shopping orientation: consumers with high hedonic shopping orientation(46.5％), consumers with low hedonic and low utilitarian shopping orientation(29.0％), consumers with high utilitarian shopping orientation(24.5％). Additionally differences of the three groups were examined according to evaluative criteria of internet shopping mall, purchase intention and demographic variables.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.9-18
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• 2004

This study focuses on the medieval Mongol costume called YosunOja. This dress consists of a blouse and a skirt, and some lines on the waist part. The purpose of the study is to analyse the structural characteristics of this costume, especially on the medieval remains from the tomb Mingshui in the district of Neimenggu. It can be analysed that this costume has three structural characteristics, which are the functional structure, sumptuous one, and the idea of Buddhism. The functional structure consists of the style with a blouse and a skirt, which gives enough surplus for the movement, the back-slash for the ease of the riding, and the dart in the front line which eliminates unnecessary surplus. The sumptuous structure is the many lines of the waist which show the maximization of the decoration, the extraordinary long sleeves, and the use of the expensive gold brocade which shows the wealth of the dresser. And also, the cutting of the fabric into the numerous segment may mean the medieval Mongols believed in Buddhism.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.19-29
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• 2004

The current fashion market is experiencing a lot of difficulties in fashion forecasting due to consumers' fast-changing lifestyle on fashion, changes in consumer behavior, and the segmentation of the fashion market. To cope with this harsh reality, many fashion enterprises have paid much attention to the SPA (Specialty Retailer's Store of Private Label Apparel) brand as a promising fashion marketing strategy in terms of which they can survive in the extremely competing fashion market. The SPA brand is in the stage of inception in Korea, but the SPA brands such as MUJI and UNIQLO are already dominating the fashion business in Japan. Korea has just started developing the SPA brand, but its technological development, which was triggered by the success of 'BASIC HOUSE', is rapidly evolving. Under these circumstances, the SPA brand is getting vital for the fashion market in efficiently realizing consumers' requirements, revolutionizing the method for providing product information and the process of Marketing Mix Program, and expressing the value of shop. This paper studies the nature of the SPA brand and fashion merchandising system, and in turn examine the differences between the visual merchandising of the existing fashion brands and the Japanese SPA brands that are used as the fashion marketing strategy which is driven by the up-to-date technological system. Centering around these issues, we propose a visual merchandising system for fashion enterprises which serves to develop Korean-style SPA brands.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.31-43
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data on the propriety of the ready-to-made garment sizes of the boys aged between 10 and 11. The data were collected from 315 boys in the capital area. They were surveyed during the period of April, 2004. Data analysis has been performed through descriptive statistics, $x^2$-test, t-test, ANOVA and Duncan test using SPSS ver.10. The results of the analysis are as follows. According to the result of investigating the favorite fashion style of boys, most boys aged between 10 and 11 preferred casual style(jean pants & T-shirts). Boys of age 10 preferred formal style and 11-year-old boys tend to prefer hip-hop style. When boys buy garments, boys aged between 10 and 11 were influenced by their mother or family. The store in which 10-year-old boys purchased their garments was either a children's or a sports wear store, and boys of 11 age prefer young casual wear store. The highest factors of dissatisfaction on buying garments were price and size. According to the result of evaluating fitting problems, the highest degree of dissatisfaction upon proper fitness upper-arm circumference, waist circumference and pants length.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.113-121
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• 2000

The effect of Sunlight exposure on reducing the microorganism counts in the bedding materials was experimented by using 3 kinds of microorganisms(S. aureus, K. pnenmoniae and E. coli) and 3 kinds of fabrics (cotton, silk and polyester). Counts of the microorganism were examined before and after sunlight exposure. The sunlights were controlled U.V and Daylight D50 using MacBeth artificial light source. The specimens were exposed for 5 min, 10 min and 30 minutes under the $20^{\circ}C$ and 60% R.H, distance is 50cm from the light source. Results were as follows, 1. The reduction rate of the 3kinds of microorganisms was remarkably great under the U.V exposure. The U.V. exposure was very effective way to sterlize the bedding materials in the house care. 2. S. aureus was the most susceptible to U.V. exposure and the sunlight exposure. E. coli was the most resistant to the U.V and the sunlight exposure. 3. The reduction rate of the 3 kinds of fabrics was not significantly different. The polyester is more resistant than the silk and the cotton. Those were shown good reduction rate if all kinds of microorganism under the U.V and daylight.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.203-219
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• 2007

The education chance and job opportunity of women have increased in the 19th century. Also, women tried to get the right and chance equal to men in this period. Therefore, the population of women participating in the sports have increased. And comfortable and practical pantaloons which men have been wearing were suggested to women. This study investigated the characteristics and change of women's sports wear relating to social change in the 19th century. The results of this study were as follows: 1. According to the social change, women participated in the sports activities with the opportunity equal to men, and the appropriate women's sports wear was needed. 2. Pantaloons which were suggested as the clothing reform movement became popular with the development of sports wear. 3. Simple, effective, comfortable and easy style sports wear was preferred. 4. Women accepted men's sports wear positively. 5. The women's sports wear varied according to the various kinds of sports. 6. The healthful design was preferred and harmful design was excluded. 7. Underwear was improved functionally and simplified. 8. The main materials were flannel, wool, tweed, homespun and serge, and the mail colors were brown, dark blue, gray and black.