• Title/Summary/Keyword: 의복 여유량

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A Study on Examining the Calculation Including the Ease Amount for Bodice Pattern (여유량이 포함된 제도식 검증에 관한 연구-길원형을 중심으로)

  • Koo, Mi-ji
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.105-112
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    • 1997
  • This study was carried out to examine the calculations including the ease amount for bodice pattern. The conclusions were as follows. The areas that were required the ease amount were the horizontal reference line, armhole depth, back & front width. According to this result the calculations including the ease amount were obtained as follows: B/2+4.1cm for horizontal reference line, B/6+6.8 cm for armhole depth, B/6+3.9 cm for the half of back width, B/6+2.3 cm for the half of front width, B/4+4.3 cm for bust point length.

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A Study on Walking Movements for Skirt Patterns with 3D Motion Analysis System (3차원 동작분석장치를 이름한 하지동작 연구)

  • Kim, Jung-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.9
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    • pp.1603-1613
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구는 동작분석장치를 이용하여 하지동작분석을 시도함으로서 실제 동작 시 적응 할 수 있는 의복설계를 위한 기초 자료로서 하지부 실루엣 변화의 특성을 밝히고자 하였다. 대퇴돌기점을 기준으로 본 하지동작의 진행방향 이동과 상향 방향이동을 살펴보았는데 보행유형에 따라 여유량이 특히 요구되는 부위가 각기 다르며, 부위별 필요 여유 량도 각기 다르다는 것을 알 수 있었으며 , 이러한 보행유형 별 스커트 실루엣의 특징은 기능복 설계 시 고려되어야 하겠다. 평지보행 시는 발목부위가 전면방향보다 후면방향으로 이동의 범위가 크므로 트임이나 주름이 뒷면에 있는 것이 적합하고, 계단승강이나 버스승강의 경우 무릎전면에 여유량이 필요하므로 주름이나 트임을 앞쪽에 주는 것이 바람직하며 그 길이는 대퇴돌기점 높이정도에서 시작하여야 하고 무릎아래에 있는 앞트임은 하지동작에 도움이 되지 않음을 알 수 있었다.

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A Study on the Comparative Evaluation of wearing Fitness of Women′s Ready-made Jackets Using 3D Scanner (3D Scanner를 이용한 여성용 기성복 재킷의 착의적합성에 관한 비교평가연구)

  • Kim, Haekyung;Eunyoung Suk;Park, Soonjee;Chuyeon Suh;Jiyoung Lim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.10
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    • pp.1707-1718
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구 목적은 3차원 인체 스캐너를 이용하여 여자 기성복 재킷의 여유량을 비교, 분석하는 것으로, 2사이즈 7브랜드의 재킷의 공극량을 계측하여 분석하였다. 첫째, 재킷 단면둘레 분석 결과, B85(품), B8(허리)를 제외하고 브랜드간에 유의한 차이를 나타내지 않아, 전반적으로, 브랜드간 제품치수에는 차이가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 인체와 재킷의 단면둘레 분석 결과, 재킷의 배둘레를 제외한 모든 항목에서 유의한 차이가 나타나 피험자, 재킷 모두 사이즈에 따라 유의적인 차이 가 있음을 알 수 있다. 셋째, 기본사이즈 B85에서는 허리를 제외하고는 패턴 F가 가장 여유량이 많은 것으로 나타났으나, B88의 경우, 부위별로 각기 다른 패턴에서 여유량이 가장 많은 것으로 나타나, 각 부분마다 브랜드별로 그레이딩 룰이 다름을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 착의 단면은 인체와 의복간의 여유량 분포를 명백히 보여주며, 어깨, 가슴, 엉덩이처럼 몸에 밀착되는 부위는 다른 부위에 비해 패턴간, 각도별 변이가 적은 것으로 나타났다. 품, 허리, 배에서는 옆보다는 앞, 뒤로, 가슴에서는 앞뒤 좌우의 30$^{\circ}$방향, 엉덩이의 경우, 옆, 뒤보다는 앞쪽에 여유량이 집중되어 있는 것으로 나타났다. 다섯째, 브랜드별 평균공극길이에 대한 분산분석 결과, 전반적으로 패턴 F가 가장 공극량이 많고, 패턴 D가 작은 것으로 나타났다. 여섯째, 사이즈별 평균공극길이에 대한 t-검정 결과, 품과 배 부분에서, B88이 B85보다 공극량이 적은 것으로 나타나, 기준부위인 가슴, 허리, 엉덩이 부분뿐만 아니라 품, 배둘레의 치수에 대응할 수 있도록 그레이딩 룰 값을 산정하여야 함을 알 수 있다.

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A Study on Appropriate Size Tolerances for the Female Shirts Blouse of Stretchable Fabric (신축성소재 셔츠 블라우스의 여유량에 관한 연구)

  • 한진이;조진숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.289-300
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    • 2000
  • Stretchable textile materials are getting more widely used in clothing industry. Among others are two obvious reasons which make it so desirable to young female customers, i.e., better confort with motion and more closely fitted silhouette. But these two points cannot get along well always. If a manufacturer try hard to make his products too closely fit, then the products are even less comfortable than made of non-stretchable material. On the other hand, if a stretchable garment are developed to be too comfortable with plenty of size tolerance. it cannot attract customers who are looking for something closely fit. So the study was aimed to investigate appropriate size tolerances.

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A Study on the Development of Men′s Basic Bodice Patterns According to Somatotypes (체형별 남성상의원형 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Jinsun;Lee, Wonja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.10
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    • pp.1754-1762
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구의 목적은 적합성과 기능성이 고려된 체형별 남성 상의 원형 패턴을 개발하는데 있다. 피험자는 인체계측자료와 측면체형 사진에 의해 선정하고, 체형은 굴신체형, 표준체형, 반신체형으로 분류하였다. 체형별 실험 원형 패턴의 평가를 위하여 기존원형을 선정하였으며, 연구 결과는 다음과 같다; 1. 착의평가 결과 표준체형은 대부분의 항목에서 적합하였으나, 굴신체형과 반신체형에서는 많은 차이가 있었다. 이러한 차이는 앞길이와 등길이 뿐만 아니라 여유량과 윗 가슴둘레에 서 나타난다. 앞품과 뒤품은 외관에 의해 많은 영향을 받으며, 증가된 옆품은 앞품과 뒤품의 부족분을 보충하는 역할을 하였다. 따라서 실험패턴은 기존패턴보다 각 체형에 더욱 적합하며, 체형 적합성과 동작기능성이 고려된 의복 제작을 위한 패턴설계는 인체의 구조와 동작연구에 의해 가능하였다. 2. 기본원형 패턴 설계를 위한 필요치수는 목뒤높이, 등길이, 앞길이, 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품과 뒤품이며, 체형분류의 기준은 윗 가슴둘레, 앞품, 뒤품, 앞길이, 등길이이다. 이와 같은 결과를 근거로 가슴둘레 선은 [(B/2+B/10), 뒤진동깊이는 [(B/10+목뒤높이/10)]로 설정하고, 앞내림은 1.5cm로 하였다.

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A Study on the Evaluation of Ready-Made Jacket for Women according to Pattern Size Using 3D Scanner (3D scanner를 이용한 여성복 재킷의 패턴 사이즈에 따른 착의평가 연구)

  • 서추연
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.26 no.3_4
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    • pp.390-401
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    • 2002
  • This study was to evaluate the fitness and the suitability of size specification of the ready made jacket for women by analysing pattern size and space between skin and clothing using 3D scanner. The results were as follows: 1. Pattern B had the lowest score and the feeling of wearing was significantly different among the given patterns even though all jacket size specification were the same. 2. Ease amount was different between each brand even though the jacket size specification was the same due to the different pattern grading rules. And increasing grading amounts were bigger in horizontal direction rather than in vertical direction. 3. We could obtain accurate a 3 dimensional figure, using 3D scanner which was very useful and more accurate than 2 dimensional data using photography method. 4. Analyzing the average space between skin and clothing of each pattern, there was no significant difference in the average space between skin and clothing among all patterns except waist part of B88 size. And analyzing the average space between skin and clothing of each measured body parts by each size, there existed a significant difference in the interscye, abdomen and hip parts.

Comparative analysis on the industrial patterns of women's jumper suits - Focusing on the surplus according to the movement - (여성 점퍼슈트의 산업패턴 비교 분석 연구 - 동작에 따른 여유분 비교를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Min-jung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.30 no.2
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    • pp.226-242
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    • 2022
  • For clothing items that combine the top with the bottom, such as a jumper suit, it is necessary to design original forms to develop clothes in various styles that can satisfy aesthetic and functional needs. Therefore, to determine the original forms of women's jumper suits, this study aimed to analyze the patterns of women's jumper suits being sold in the market comparatively and evaluate their fitness. For the study method, this researcher obtained five types of women's jumper suits from local brands and compared the patterns' measured sizes, then conducted exterior evaluation on the surplus according to five different movements and analyzed the values of distortion of clothing pressure comparatively. According to the results, in the basic posture, brands A and C received favorable results, while in the other movements, brand B, which had the biggest surplus on the bottom, was evaluated favorably. In conclusion, in the patterns of women's jumper suits, a bigger surplus is added to either the crotch length or crotch girth rather than the top length, and the top and the bottom tend to have a different surplus according to the design. In addition, based on the values of body surface lengths according to the range of movements, this study suggests that an additional surplus be added to the length.

The Visual Illusion Using the Adequate Ease Distribution of Jacket Pattern for the Middle Aged Women of Obese Figure (중년비만 여성용 재킷패턴의 여유량 분포에 따른 착시효과)

  • Sohn, Boo-Hyun
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.469-483
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    • 2008
  • Body image is important as it is related to self-esteem and can be enhanced by clothing and the degree of enhancement is related to clothing fit. The purpose of the paper is to find the adequate ease distribution of jacket pattern for the obese women who want to slenderize their shape by optical illusion. Subjective evaluation of the visual appearance we collected and, at the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the nine types of experimental jackets with different ease distribution. As results it was found that jacket pattern for the obese women is that the front width of pattern is wider than what of back width in waist and abdomen. It was also noted that there was distance between clothing and skin in the girth around hip of jacket. 3D scanner clearly demonstrated the distribution of ease is useful to find the pattern variables responsible for the slender appearance of the obese women. The ready-to-made clothes for the obese women's clothing should be manufactured systematically in due consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

Comparative Evaluation of Jacket for Middle-aged Women according to Clothing Pressure Analysis (의복압 분석에 따른 중년 여성의 재킷비교평가 연구)

  • 이영숙;박은주;서추연
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.485-495
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    • 2003
  • This study was to compare and analyze the clothing pressure according to arms movements of 4 brands jacket for middle-aged women group by measuring clothing pressure of each brand. The results were as follows: 1. According to the analysis of jackets of 4 brands, in general, jacket C had the largest ease amount. while jacket A had a large ease amount in waist, hip areas compared with bust area. Also jacket B had a small ease amount in bust, waist areas and jacket D had a small ease amount in hip areas. Therefore the ease amount is different between each brand, each size even though jacket designs are similar. 2. It was found that clothing pressure was affected by arm movements than jackets. Since this study was limited to the arm movement for motion variation, it was recognized that a significant difference among each jacket and each movement at shoulder, waist parts existed with relation to this motion. 3. Parts showing a significant difference among each size were bust point, abdomen point, center back point of abdomen level, angulus superior scapulae point and center back point of waist level. Also clothing pressure of size B91 was bigger than size B88 except Center back point of waist level. 4. Clothing pressure in shoulder point, front armpit point, back armpit point, upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arms movement increased. Also, individual variation of clothing pressure in front armpit point, back armpit point, armpit point and upper arm point was large, and clothing pressure in abdomen point was high in M5(sitting posture).

A Study on the Fit Preferences of Knitted Jackets According to Body types Using a 3D Virtual Try-On System -Focus on Adult Women in Their 30's and 40's- (3차원 가상 착장 시스템을 이용한 체형별 니트 재킷의 맞음새 연구 -30~40대 성인 여성을 중심으로-)

  • Do, Wol-Hee;Park, Hyun-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.10
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    • pp.1632-1646
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    • 2010
  • This article is an analysis of the fit preference of the knitted jacket according to body types for 30's and 40's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point likert scale was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. The data were analyzed with t-test and ANOVA using statistical program SPSS 17.0. The results are as follow. 1. The real and virtual fit preference of the knitted jacket according to body types indicates that respondents preferred pattern 2 for body type N than the rest of the patterns; however, respondents preferred pattern 3 for body type A and H. 2. There were no significant differences between real and virtual fit preference. 3. It is necessary that the knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance like a woven jacket. The results show that the next generation of virtual try-on systems need the development of a minus clothing ease scale.