• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.175-187
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to recognize the real situation of clothing construction to present the desirable direction to establish more scientific and reasonable themes of the study by analysis of the tendency of the clothing construction study. For this purpose, 402 papers on the theme of clothing construction study were excepted from the first issues to the issues of December in 1999 of Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textile, Journal of Korea Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Fiber Society, and Journal of the Human Engineering Society of Korea. I analyzed and classified the theme into eight issues of design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing, and the clothes. The result of the study is follows. 1. The distribution tendency of the clothing construction study by the journal of each society showed that journal of Korean Home Economic is 22.9%, Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles 17.3%, Research Journal of the Costume Culture 12.2%, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 6.2%. 2. The distribution tendency of the studying issues showed hat study of body types of 29.4%, study of patterns21.9%, fitting of clothing 11.7%, sewing 10.2%, size of apparel 8.5%, and others 7%, protective clothing and functional clothing 6.7%, and design related clothing construction 4.7%. Considering the above result. we can understand that study of body types and patterns are being studied most actively. 3. Regarding the study tendency by academic issues showed that study of construction elements and design application is chiefly centered of the study of design related clothing construction (35.5%), analysis of body types is centered of the study of body, type(46/6%), CAD is centered of the study of patterns (31.1%), and size spec for the ready made patterns is centered of the study of size of apparel(32.4%). As for fitting of clothing, the study was performed in two ways on the changes of he surfaces of human bodies in motion and the functional features of experimental dressing. Regarding the study of sewing study of fusible interlining was mainly performed (36.6%) and regarding the study of protective clothing and functional clothing, study of brassieres and underwear was chiefly performed.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 1999년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.157-161
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• 1999

본 연구에서 직물의 열, 수분 전달특성과 KES-FB의 역학적 특성치, 직물표면의 fractal dimension을 측정하여 주관적 의복 착용 쾌적감을 예측하고자 하였다. 실험의복에 사용된 직물은 면 100% 평직물, 면/PET 혼방직물, 피치가공된 면/PET 혼방직물, PET 100% 평직물, 알칼리 감량가공된 PET 100% 크레이프 직물이었으며, 실험의복의 형태는 긴 소매 셔츠로 하였다. 착용실험은 온도 29$\pm$0.5$^{\circ}C$, 상대습도 75$\pm$2%RH, 기류 0.15m/s를 유지하는 항온항습실에서 실시하였고 36명의 여성 피험자(20-23세)들이 참여하였다. 의복 착용감의 하위 구성차원을 파악하기 위해 실험결과를 요인분석한 결과 5 개의 요인으로 추출되었다. 제 1 요인은 체온상승, 수분특성과 관련이 있는 온열.발한감이었으며, 제 2 요인은 무게ㆍ두께감, 제 3 요인은 회복특성감, 제 4 요인은 표면접촉감, 제 5 요인은 온냉감으로 구성되었다. 직물의 표면특성을 정량화하는 방법으로 도입한 fractal dimension 의 분석값들과 종래의 가장 보편적으로 이용되어 온 KES_FB 의 표면 특성치들이 주관적 착용쾌적감 예측에 얼마나 기여하는지 비교해 본 결과, 표면접촉감은 fractal dimension, 접촉점들의 총면적, 접촉점들의 평균 axis ratio, MMD, SMD와 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 또한 종합적 착용쾌적감에 대해서는 SMD 를 제외한 척도들이 유의한 상관을 보였으며, 그 중에서도 fractal dimension 과 접촉점들의 총면적은 0.8 이상의 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 착용쾌적감을 예측하기 위한 회귀분석결과에서는 fractal dimension 만으로 쾌적감의 74%가 설명되었으며 공기 투과도를 첨가하면 두 변수로 $R^2$=.792가 되었다. 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.tosterone농도는 107.7$\pm$12.0 pmol／l이었고, 남성의 타액내 농도는 274.2$\pm$22.1 pmol／l이었다. 이상의 결과로 보아 본 연구에서 정립된 EIA 방법은 RIA를 대신하여 소규모의 실험실에서도 활용할 수 있을 것으로 사려된다.또한 상실기 이후 배아에서 합성되며, 발생시기에 따라 그 영향이 다르고 팽창과 부화에 관여하는 것으로 사료된다. 더욱이, 조선의 ${\ulcorner}$구성교육${\lrcorner}$이 조선총독부의 관리하에서 실행되었다는 것을, 당시의 사범학교를 중심으로 한 교육조직을 기술한 문헌에 의해 규명시켰다.nd of letter design which represents -natural objects and was popular at the time of Yukjo Dynasty, and there are some documents of that period left both in Japan and Korea. "Hyojedo" in Korea is supposed to have been influenced by the letter design. Asite- is also considered to have been "Japanese Letter Jobcheso." Therefore, the purpose of this study is to look into the origin of the letter designs in t

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권11호
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• pp.1399-1408
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• 2011

This study analyzes the current educational curricula in the field of clothing construction to provide some fundamental information for developing more appropriate educational courses and to activate the fashion business. A total of 82 different departments related to fashion and apparel were selected from four-year domestic universities and the curricula recently posted on their internet websites were analyzed by descriptive statistics. More than half (53.7%) of the 82 departments were offering classes in the clothing construction field for 3 credits and 4 class hours. College affiliation of the departments that offered curricula in the clothing construction field was classified into 5 categories: the arts (34), human ecology (22), natural sciences (14), humanities/culture (9), and others (3). Human ecology category showed the highest results in the average class hours (3.9), the number of classes in the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes in the clothing construction field out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). All 82 departments were classified into 3 categories of: fashion design (32), clothing (28), and fashion business (22). The clothing category showed the highest results in the average credits (2.8), class hours (3.8), the number of classes offered by the clothing construction field (7.6), and the percentage of the classes that offer clothing construction education out of all major classes offered by the clothing department (19.9%). The educational contents of clothing construction area were classified into 8 different categories of: basic theory and sewing, clothing construction, flat pattern, draping, tailoring and advanced clothing construction, pattern CAD, sewing science and apparel manufacturing process, and clothing construction for special needs. Among these categories, the draping category constituted 21.7% as the largest part. In addition, the distribution of classes offered by 4 academic years were analyzed into 8 different categories.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.59-69
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• 2022

Vyshyvanka, the embroidered folk costume shirt of Ukraine, originated during the early reign of the Slavs, and currently, it is also called Ukrainian embroidery. In cases of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements, it is necessary to research formative characteristics for expanding the visual aspect through the diversification of techniques, but also the aspect of the psychological meaning to Ukrainians. This study aims to consider Vyshyvanka as a unique embroidery technique, and also analyze the formative characteristics expressed in apparel elements. The study of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements can present meaning to understanding the Ukrainian fashion. The image materials for the analysis of Vyshyvanka design, included work photos contained in literary materials and foreign online visual materials. The results of formatively analyzing the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel are as follows. First, the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements held an incantatory meaning, protecting wearers from getting easily invaded by evil spirits. Second, the Vyshyvanka patterns utilized symbolism that implied the incantatory meaning. Third, a single color was used for the embroidery. Lastly, materials like cotton, that are easy to embroider, were mostly used. The formative characteristics of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements implied the community spirit, nature worship, and folk beliefs. As an attempt to understand the Ukrainian fashion, this study is significant in the aspect of expanding, widely utilizing, and expanding the range of understanding of Ukrainian fashion. Therefore, there should be more active researches on Ukrainian fashion, so Vyshyvanka can be more widely used as a design element.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권6호
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• pp.1027-1037
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• 2023

This paper presents an efficient method for generating informative apparel fit comments by analyzing 122 fit reviews found in 7 menswear patternmaking textbooks, which include both domestic and foreign sources. The fit reviews for menswear were categorized into top and bottoms, and the expressions varied based on body parts, causes, and fit issue appearances. The causes of fit issues could be attributed to size errors and structural errors in both top and bottoms. Both top and bottoms had fit reviews concerning unique body types, but it could cause trouble among learners as both were based on unclear criteria for body type classification and lacked relevant explanations. Common fit issue appearances included compound wrinkles, pulling wrinkles, sagging wrinkles, and garment being away from the body. No clear correlation was observed between the causes of fit issues and specific appearances. Limitations were identified in using textbooks as educational data, such as inconsistent solutions for different body types or fit issues, and the presence of ambiguous visual materials. As a result, strategies such as categorizing fit issue appearances, providing 3D visual examples with subcategorized causes, body types and parts could enhance quality of fit reviews and improve fit outcomes in clothing production systems.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2009년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.239-242
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• 2009

최근 3 차원 측정 기술을 활용한 운동 기능성의 향상을 위한 연구가 활발히 진행되고 있다. 그 예로 3 차원 인체 정보를 이용한 의복패턴 제작 시에 필요한 절개선으로 피부상에서 동작 시 늘어나지 않는 선(Lines of Non-Extension, LoNE)을 찾아내어 활용한 연구가 발표된 바 있다. 이러한 LoNE 은 기존 의복구성을 위한 봉제선이나 기능선으로 활용될 때 동작기능성을 저해하지 않는 특징이 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 스포츠웨어에서 활동성이 큰 상체의 어깨부위에서 Lines of Non-Extension 을 탐색하고자 하였다. 연구 방법으로는 20 대 후반 남성 2 명을 대상으로 체표의 등 부분에서 3cm 간격으로 계측점을 표시한 후 3D 인체 데이터 (Cyberware, WB)를 획득하였다. 측정시의 자세는 팔을 $30^{\circ}$, $90^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$ 외전시켰다. 피부 표면에서의 길이 변화는 구획의 크기를 달리하면서 가로, 세로, 사선방향으로 동작에 따라서 측정하였다. 변화량은 정자세($30^{\circ}$)를 기준으로 A 라 하였을 때, 기준자세와의 차이가 가장 큰 변화량을 보인 자세를 B 라 하고 A 와 B 간의 차이로 계산하였다. 연구결과, NASA 의 Biosuit 에서 소개된 Iberall(1970)의 LoNE 중 진동둘레를 포함한 팔 부위와 등, 어깨 부위에서 유사한 라인을 찾았다. 본 연구에서와 같이 구획별 사선방향 피부 변화량을 측정하는 것은 피부면에 숨겨진 인간공학적 의복 기능선을 탐색하는 데 효과적임을 확인하였다.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2003년도 봄 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.398-399
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• 2003

의복 쾌적감은 착용자가 환경변화에 대하여 쾌적한 감정을 갖는 것을 의미한다. 직물의 쾌적성은 접촉감 뿐만 아니라 공기, 열, 수분을 전달하는 직물의 물리적 특성과 관계가 있는데 특별히 직물의 표면특성과 관련하여 변화하는 쾌적인자는 온냉감과 열, 수분 및 공기전달성이다. 따라서 직물의 표면 형태 및 두께에 따라 열, 수분 및 공기전달 특성은 달라질 뿐만 아니라 인체에 접촉하였을 때 접촉면적이 달라지므로 촉감에 큰 영향을 미친다. 본 연구에서는 의복의 쾌적성 향상의 중요한 인자로 대표적인 직물의 역학 특성과 열 및 수분전달특성을 직물 구성사의 단면형상을 달리하였을 때의 그 상관 관계에 대하여 알아보았다. (중략)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.628-636
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• 1994

One vertical (medianus) and six horizontal (chest, bust, below bust, waist, abdomen and hip) sections of nine healthy pregnant women were examined every month by siliding gauge method during the period from 3rd to loth monthes of pregnancy. In the body changes along the passing months of pregnancy, which were observed by a follow·up measurement, there was little change on the posterior line when viewed using a vertical cross section. On the contrary, there was a great deal of increase on the anterior median line. Particularly, the degree of protrusion was great in the waist and ubilicus area due to pregnancy. At early pregnancy the distance from front to back is much shorter than side to side, however, as pregnancy progressed the front to back distance, on a horizontal cross section, is almost equal to the side to side distance.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 2007년도 춘계학술대회 및 국제감성 심포지엄
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• pp.51-52
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• 2007

미래의 '정보전장'에서는 모든 전투 개체가 실시간 정보를 공유하면서 작전을 수행하게 되며, 병사 또한 하나의 체계로 임무를 수행하기 위해 각종 디지털 디바이스가 내장된 스마트 전투복을 입게 될 것으로 생각된다. 선진국들은 여러 해 전부터 스마트 전투복을 개발하고자 하는 노력을 기울여 왔으며, 우리나라에서도 이에 동참하고 있다. 그러나, 각종 병사 구성품과 디지털 디바이스를 의복 내에 포함시켜 설계함에 있어서 병사의 동작과 체형에 적합한 설계안을 도출하기 위하여 프로토타입을 착용한 후 그 사용성을 평가할 필요성이 대두되었다. 본 연구는 미래병사의 전투력 향상을 위해 각종 디지털 디바이스를 내장한 스마트 전투복의 사용성을 평가하는 기술을 개발하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 이를 위해 본 연구에서는 선행연구에서 개발된 스마트의류의 사용성평가 척도를 이용하여 디지털 디바이스 내장형 전투복 프로토타입의 사용하여 사용성평가의 척도를 새롭게 개발하고 스마트 전투복의 사용성 평가 척도와 기술을 개발하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.262-271
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• 1999

This paper presents a conceptual mode of the clothing complaining behavior process following dissatisfaction in a retail environment and influence of relevant variables. The data were collected 250 male and 358 female consumers by questionnaire employing critical incident technique. Given dissatisfaction with clothing the complaining behavior undertaken will be largely dependent on product importance the likelihood of success one's attitude toward complaining and demorgraphic variables. Through empirical research the clothing complaining behavior was dependent on the likelihood of success sex, dimension of complaining cost and product importance, Brand satisfaction was affected by only perceived justice. And repurchasing behavior was dependent upon brand satisfaction education product importance and income.