• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제21권6호
• /
• pp.776-788
• /
• 2019

This study developed an ergonomic Korean female military winter jacket and (inner and outer) pattern in in order to increase dimension and operational suitability for military missions. First we developed the 1st development pattern and sample jackets with improved dimensions and operational suitability based on a previous investigation of fitness and motion suitability of Korean female military winter jackets (inner and outer) and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation result of fitness for the 1st development pattern were over 4.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket, a positive result and the result of motion suitability were over 3.5 in both the inner and outer jacket except for the neck front part by collar height. However, we did not modify the collar height because decreases in warmth and military regulations. We also evaluated appearance by experts that showed good results in both the inner and outer jacket. Finally, we developed a final pattern based on evaluation results and military regulations. Existing military uniform research was conducted mainly on male soldiers. Beginning with this study, we expect to expand research on the development of military uniform patterns suitable for a female soldier body type.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권1호
• /
• pp.153-166
• /
• 2010

The study analyzes the lower-trunk sizes of 7-12 year old elementary school boys and compares sizes with boys, juniors, and men for analyzing and image fit. For the study, the data of SizeKorea (2004) was analyzed. Waist, hip, and the ratio of hip-thickness to hip-width were significantly different between age groups as well as between boys, juniors, and men. In the same height group, over 145cm boys had bigger waist than juniors and smaller waists than men. Therefore, the difference of waist size and the length of leg could cause the dissatisfaction of the pant fit when tall and plump boys chose a corresponding pants size to individual height or waist. The hip-thickness of body and pants patterns were compared in the analysis of the ease of hip-thickness. Tall and plump boys will feel discomfort in the crotch area because of the insufficiency of the hip-thickness of pants. Therefore, the amount of crotch extension of individual pants should be calculated by hip size instead of using the fixed amount. The reference sizes for discriminative pants for tall and plump boys were analyzed for a better fit.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제44권3호
• /
• pp.464-484
• /
• 2020

This study examined obese women with a BMI index over than 25 kg/㎡ in their 20s and 30s regarding the right fit for wearing a blouse. In comparison with three types of existing educational patterns, the first educational pattern experimental clothing was produced in dimensions of three study participants selected by the existing pattern to evaluate the fit suitability conducted for groups of study participants and expert groups. Experimental patterns were designed based on educational pattern C, which was the best fit as a result of the fitting evaluation. The main modification items include front bust circumference, hip circumference, back interscye, scye depth, shoulder length, blouse length, bottom line shape, upper arm circumference, wrist circumference, sleeve length and collar size. The design preferences for obese women were reflected in pattern modification; in addition, the final experimental pattern was designed by adding or subtracting margins and dimensions based on the results of the visual matching assessment by study subjects and expert groups.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제28권11호
• /
• pp.1536-1543
• /
• 2004

Garment is made by a 2D pattern and should be fitted to a human body which has 3D characteristics. Therefore, to design a pattern more effectively, the use of 3D information of a human body and the investigation of relationship between the 3D garment and 2D pattern are necessary. In this work, ruled surface method was used to reflect the 3D information of a human body for a pattern design. The images of the brassiere line on the woman's dress form were captured by phase-shifting projection moire system and the 3D information on the design line was obtained. 2D patterns on the various parts of the brassiere were developed directly from the 3D data by the ruled surface method. In addition, design line, the area and the amount of dart were quantified. And then we verify the appropriateness of the ruled surface method to the 2D pattern development by measuring the distribution of the space between women's figure and segmented clothing item. It was found that the ruled surface method is useful to transform the 3D design line to the 2D pattern, if we followed the steps suggested in this paper.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제29권9_10호
• /
• pp.1359-1368
• /
• 2005

When we develop the tight-fit 2D pattern from the 3D scan data, segmentation of the 3D scan data into several parts is necessary to make a curved surface into a flat plane. In this study, Garland's method of triangle simplification was adopted to reduce the number of data point without distorting the original shape. The Runge-Kutta method was applied to make triangular patch from the 3D surface in a 2D plane. We also explored the detailed arrangement method of small 2D patches to make a tight-fit pattern for a male body. As results, minimum triangle numbers in the simplification process and efficient arrangement methods of many pieces were suggested for the optimal 2D pattern development. Among four arrangement methods, a block method is faster and easier when dealing with the triangle patches of male's upper body. Anchoring neighboring vertices of blocks to make 2D pattern was observed to be a reasonable arrangement method to get even distribution of stress in a 2D plane.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제40권2호
• /
• pp.273-286
• /
• 2016

Protective coveralls are very uncomfortable to work in comparison to ordinary top and bottom separated clothing. A pattern maker has to consider the size of the human body and human motion range when designing protective coverall patterns. It is difficult to produce well-fitted coveralls because of the lack of readymade patterns despite the increased need for protective coveralls at various jobs. Patterns are decomposed by unsewing 18 products in the domestic market to provide the fundamental information on developing patterns for protective coveralls. The characteristics and differences of pattern types are compared after grouping patterns with information taken from the analysis of the shapes and measurements of patterns from the acquired patterns. The results of the analysis showed that on-market protective coveralls were less curved but much linear when compared to ordinary clothing patterns; however, the breasts and crotch circumferences were very loose and bulky, which is quite different from the other all-in one style working clothes. For the pattern shapes, patterns are classified into waistline-seamed and bustline-seamed types. The result of the hierarchical cluster analysis with 27 measurement variables were classified into four groups. Types by shape and measurements were related to each other; therefore, we expect the information of each type to be used in developing protective clothing patterns.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권8호
• /
• pp.867-876
• /
• 2011

This study investigates the image of casual shirts according to color combination, tone, and interval of checked pattern in tone-in-tone coloration. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 24 color pictures, in which color combination (RY: Red+Yellow, BP: Blue+Purple), tone (light, dull, dark), and interval (0.5cm, 1.5cm, 3.5cm, and 5.5cm) were manipulated. The 7-point scale was used for evaluation of image. Data were obtained from 240 female college students living in Seoul, Gwangju, Jinju, and Changwon in April 2010. For data analysis, ANOVA and Duncan-test were used by using SPSS program. The results of this study are as follows. Image according to color combination, tone, and interval of checked pattern consisted of five dimensions of attractiveness, youth- activity, appeal, modesty, and freshness. The cover combination showed an independent effect on freshness. Tone showed an independent effect on attractiveness, youth-activity, appeal, and modesty. Interval showed an independent effect on appeal, modesty, and freshness. Interaction effects of color combination and tone on youth-activity and appeal were found. In addition, interaction effects of tone and interval on attractiveness, youth-activity, and freshness were also found.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제44권2호
• /
• pp.369-383
• /
• 2020

This study proposes a method to effectively teaching technic for pattern development and virtual garment manufacturing by adopting the K-MOOC platform for the Apparel Pattern CAD curriculum. According to K-MOOC guidelines, Apparel Pattern CAD curriculum were developed and presented through the K-MOOC platform. A questionnaire survey was utilized to evaluate K-MOOC platform features in terms of learner satisfaction when adopting the 5-point Likert scale. Questionnaire survey participants included 52 college students. The result of the survey found that most of the attributes of the K-MOOC platform were highly rated in terms of interaction and learning effectiveness. The user interface of the K-MOOC platform were shown to be satisfactory in terms of usability. Participants gave a positive assessment of the benefits of online lectures when comparing online and offline lectures. In particular, the preference for online lectures in computer-related courses such as CAD was higher than the offline. It was concluded that the Apparel Pattern CAD curriculum based on the K-MOOC platform was effective and satisfactory for learners in various aspects.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제17권1호
• /
• pp.93-101
• /
• 2015

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제12권5호
• /
• pp.582-590
• /
• 2010

Garment design needs an iterative manipulation of 2D patterns to generate a final sloper. Traditionally there have been two kinds of design methodologies such as the flat pattern method and the pattern draping method. But today, it is possible to combine the advantages from the two methods due to the realistic cloth simulation techniques. We devised a new garment design system which starts from 3D initial drape simulation result and then modifies the garment by editing the 2D flat patterns synchronously. With this interactive methodology using real-time pattern deformation technique, the designer can freely change a pattern shape by watching its 3D outlook in real-time. Also the final garment data were given relative coordinates with respect to the human anthropometric feature points detected by an automatic body feature detection algorithm. Using the relative human body coordinate system, the final garments can be re-used to an arbitrary body data without repositioning in the drape simulation. A female shirt was used for an example and a 3D body scan data was used for an illustration of the feature point detection algorithm.