• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.687-696
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• 2006

This study aims at analyzing the silhouette, dress patterns and detail of Empire Era(1789-1825), and making use of this results for the modern stage costume construction. The dresses of Empire era were divided into X and H style. The results revealed that the bust girth of X style group was bigger than that of H style group. Such patterns as high waistline, puff sleeve, train, etc. which appeared during the peak time of Empire style period were more remarkable for H style group. This obviously indicated that more epical characteristics were observed for H style group than for X style group. Similarly to silhouette analysis, based on the results from cluster analysis conducted to put similar groups together, two groups were formed - a visually differentiated and complex group and a simple group in the absence of detail. Most dress details from Empire period had simple embellishments. Comparison of the average size of the patterns between two groups indicated that waist front length of H style was shorter than that of X style. Front interscye was even greater than back width for both groups. Such trend was quite different from today's pattern in which back width is larger than front width based on body measurements. Preference for big breast during the period was reflected on dress patterns and the side length of front side goes across the back much further for bodice patterns. Two representatives were selected and reproduced using materials similar to those of real dresses of Empire style, following two times fit test.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.196-202
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• 2006

In this study the swimwear pattern focused on a typical middle-aged women's body was developed and discussed. To determine the characteristics of a typical middle-aged women's body, their actual bust were cast. According to a generated flattened body surface shell, the right side of pattern was designed considering stretching ratio of swimwear materials as shown in the figure 3. Special features of the developed swimwear pattern are a bust dart, a particularly designed lining, a power-net, and a brassiere-cup. Against a commercial swimwear pattern, the darts were applied to bust area considering its volume. The lining was attached on the entire right side except brassiere part, and power-net was added twice on belly and hip part. As a result, silhouette and body shape were improved. The new brassiere-cup was designed and made to satisfy the middle-aged women's demand about their bust volume. Swimwear fitting test was performed, and it was evaluated. The developed swimwear rated activity, body support, entire silhouette, pressure, comfortable fitting, suitability with body figure, nudity higher by comparison with a commercial swimwear, as shown in the Table 6. Specially the developed swimwear satisfied future customers about a bust, a hip, a waist, a belly area, which the middle-aged women are not confident. Reducing exposure of an armhole and upper leg area, it also satisfied them. New developed swimwear pattern will provide useful reference to swimwear businesses targeting middle-aged women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.266-274
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• 2004

This study is on the sensitive image of pattern expressed in the color & formative types of traditional Jokakbo(scraps of cloth). The object of this research is Korean traditional scraps of cloth in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty. This study is to be classified into 10 formative types like square type 1, square type 2, diagonal type, diamond type, many color striped type, concentric circle type, pinwheel type, vertical line type, cintamani pattern type, and free style type to apply the design of Jokakbo to Korean design. And color group is divided into vivid tone and pale tone. And it constitutes 17 patterns from the combination of these two types. As for the factors of constitution of scraps of cloth, it consists of factors like revelation, attraction, temperature sense, abstract, and rigidity. In the emotional image in the patterns, both vivid tone and pale tone showed dynamic and warm emotion together. Also, the factors of revelation and attraction were evaluated as opposite images, and it evaluated the plain and dim emotion as more attractive emotion. They preferred the pale tone to the vivid tone. They preferred the cintamani pattern in the vivid tone, and the diamond pattern in the pale tone most. From the research result above, this study made the abstract image of scraps of cloth standardized and prepared for a basis to execute it essentially. This research will be used as basic data to make traditional Korean image spotlighted in the world fashion markets as well as it will be helpful to the development of pattern design for the scraps of cloth essentially.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.661-671
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• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.286-292
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.421-433
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• 2014

The aim of this study was to provide compression wear manufacture brands with information needed for product development. 8 tops and 7 bottoms from widely recognized compression wear manufacture brands were selected, and their product structural elements were analyzed, too. The results showed that most compression wear designs were applications of cutting lines designed considering muscle movements of the human body. The average number of cutting lines for patterns and designs were 14 for tops and 15 for bottoms. Different colored material was mainly used on the top for areas that require ventilation or high movement during sports for tops, and for areas that require muscle and joint support during sports for bottoms. The functionality of top materials were found to be stretch, muscle support, moisture absorption and high speed drying, warmth and ventilation for tops, in order of frequency, and stretch, muscle support, moisture absorption and high speed drying, and pressure for bottoms, in order of frequency. Tops were cut in the direction of the lengthwise grain, and bottoms were not only cut in the direction of the lengthwise grain, but also in the direction of the crosswise grain and bias for many products. Tops consisted of an average of 13 organically connected panels, and bottoms consisted of an average of 18 organically connected panels, which was analyzed to improve functionality. The average clothing surface area stretch rate was 85.7% for tops and 70.0% for bottoms, indicating that bottoms were designed to have higher strain rates compared to tops.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.256-267
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• 2013

This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.766-775
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• 2016

In the era of globalization and unlimited competition, Korean universities need a breakthrough in their education system according to the changing education landscape, such as lower graduation requirements to cultivate more multi-talented convergence leaders. While each student has different learning capabilities, which results in different performance and achievements in the same class, the uniform education that most universities are currently offering fails to accommodate such differences. Blended learning, synergically combining offline and online classes, enlarges learning space and enriches learning experiences through diversified tools and materials, including multimedia. Recently, universities are increasingly adopting video contents and on-offline convergence learning strategy. Thus, this study suggests a teaching method based on blended learning to more effectively teach existing pattern CAD and virtual CAD in the Apparel Pattern CAD class. To this end, this researcher developed a teaching-learning method and curriculum according to the blended learning phase and video-based contents. The curriculum consisted of 2D CAD (SuperAlpha: Plus) and 3D CAD (CLO) software learning for 15 weeks. Then, it was loaded to the Learning Management System (LMS) and operated for 15 weeks both online and offline. The performance analysis of LMS usage found that class materials, among online postings, were viewed the most. The discussion menu most accurately depicted students' participation, and students who did not participate in discussions were estimated to check postings less than participating students. A survey on the blended learning found that students prefer digital or more digitized classes, while preferring face to face for Q&As.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1039-1048
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• 2011

This research develops a basic design structure for scuba diving wetsuits suitable for the shape of Korean men in their 30's as well as enhances the reduction rate for underwater activity. The clothing pressure and fitness tests were performed using four different types of body suits. The usable data of the tests were coded for further statistical analysis that includes one way-ANOVA test and S-N-K Multiple Range Test by using SPSSWIN 17.0. An analysis of the results shows: (1) The results of the clothing pressure test (using a dummy) indicated that the larger the reduction rate, the stronger the clothing pressure gets (with an exception on the knee area). It has great impact on clothing pressure with regards to the different body parts. The different reduction rates should be applied to body parts accordingly. (2) In the case of test subjects, the overall mean values of the clothing pressure were lower than the ones with the dummy (attributable to the cushion function of body skin and muscle as well as the high stretch of the fabric). (3) In evaluating the subjective fit test of four types of body suits, a statistically significant difference was found in the relation between pattern reduction rates and all parts of the body. It was revealed that the reduction rate of 'B' pattern (X: 4%, Y: 3%) was the most suitable pattern and the 'B' pattern scored highest in the motion functional fit test performed by a test subject.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1049-1059
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• 2011

This study investigates the current state of companies that manufacture and sell outdoor wear. A survey was conducted to identify what problems they had and what aspects they needed to supplement through a comparison and analysis of their block patterns. Companies that manufactured outdoor wear and those that sold them were separately surveyed to understand their current state. The manufactures included 4 companies and 14 sellers. The survey used interviews to cover the areas of target consumers, development patterns, production lines, body size, nominal size, production size, and functional materials for each item, and aspects that need improvement. The survey period was from September $3^{rd}$ to $10^{th}$ 2008. There were three block patterns for jackets, T-shirts, and pants. The investigator collected the patterns used by three outdoor clothing manu-facturers for comparison and assessment. As a result, the mean age of the target consumers set by the outdoor clothing manufacturers and sellers was 25.3-50.7 and 29.2-42.5, respectively, which shows that the outdoor clothing had a wider distribution of target consumers than the sellers. It is imperative for them to segment and differentiate the target consumers and concepts. The basic body measurements the companies used to draw the upper and lower garment patterns were the bust circumference for the upper garment patterns and the waist circumference for the lower garment patterns. The basic nominal size was 95 for the upper garment and 70 for the lower garment. Also analyzed were the block patterns according to the items to understand the pattern characteristics of each of the companies. There were a total of 35, 36, and 30 items for the jackets, T-shirts, and pants, respectively, to measure size. The items were then compared with one another in mean and standard deviation. The analysis indicate that the block patterns were not fit for women in their twenties or thirties to wear and required revisions in the length of the upper garment, the height of sleeve cap, bust circumference, hip length, and pant length.