• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.272-281
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• 2016

From the year 2000 on, Seoul has aimed to be a fashion city, and thus has been supporting young designers through Seoul Fashion Creative Studio, Generation Next, Le Dome, Concept Korea, etc. London is famous for nurturing young designers through the joint help of government, schools and industries: Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Peter Pilotto are successful cases. Therefore, this research aims to suggest a direction for policies aimed at helping young designers in the international market, on the basis of London's nurturing programs and ideas from a literature review and case studies. The results are below. Firstly, a step-by-step supporting program is recommended. Secondly, long-lasting, sustainable programs are considered essential to support designers after the end of their contracts. Thirdly, practical assistance is preferred to monetary funding in order to lighten the designers' lot and in the interests of transparency. The mentoring service should be strengthened for the designers to eventually become independent. The support should be tailor-made according to items. Fourthly, the supporting programs should be promoted. Fifthly, government and industries should collaborate. Sixthly, 'de minimis' against overlapped support should be legislated. For these, the change of supporting method can be helpful; an independent administrative organisation plans and collects funds from governments and companies. Through these programs and any subsequent studies, Seoul could become a fashion city where young designers play active roles at a global level.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.317-326
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• 2016

The main purposes of this study were to segment Chinese consumers who purchase fashion products through internet commerce according to internet shopping values, to compare their online word-of-mouth acceptance and dissemination behavior, and to examine the demographic characteristics and purchase behavior of the segments. 715 questionnaires were collected through internet survey from January $19^{th}$ to March $16^{th}$, 2015 and a total of 488 were used for the final data analysis. The respondents were twenty to thirty nine years old men and women living in all over China. Hedonic and utilitarian shopping values were identified through factor analysis and based on the shopping values, the respondents were categorized into four groups-ambivalent shopping value group, hedonic shopping value group, utilitarian shopping value group and indifferent group. Among these groups, there were significant differences in terms of online word-of-mouth acceptance as well as dissemination level and motivation. In overall, ambivalent shopping value group showed high online word-of-mouth acceptance as well as dissemination motivation. The groups also showed significant differences in clothing selection criteria, frequently purchased internet shopping sites, online clothing shopping frequency and information sources. The groups also differed in terms of age, residential area, education level, occupation and income. However, there were no significant differences in gender and marital status among the groups.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.867-877
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• 2009

These days, the fantastic in opposition to classic beauty becomes a genre of creative body expression. The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of body types and meanings in recent fantastic fashion illustration. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In literatures, pictures and movies, the category of the fantastic body's expressive types were classified as dominant mutant based on SF, multi body or fragment body by disruption, heterogeneous compound based on myth, personified humanoid and non substance in supernatural boundary. The dominant mutant based on SF was expressed image morphing, composition of machine image with body and modern metamorphosis of classic SF body. It means propensity to post-feminism and reservation of meaning analysis based on human unconsciousness. The multi body or fragment body by disruption in fashion illustration was expressed distorted composition of same body pictures, replacement of different bodies, deconstruction and partial omission of body and composition of meaning or non meaning images. It means permanence of self and basic narcissism. The heterogeneous compound based on myth was expressed general composition or optical illusion of various and aggressive animal motive. It means reinterpretation of original myth, metaphor of basic femme fatale, pursuit of permanence and sign of primitive mind in unconsciousness. The personified humanoid was expressed real human body description of mannequin or ball joint doll and anthropomorphism of robot image. It means representative satisfaction and nostalgia of childhood. The non substance in supernatural boundary was expressed grotesque description of ghost, zombie, vampire, angel, fairy, using of symbolic red, black color and non body. It means human's basic desire about immortality and taboo. Through the result of these study, the expression of fantastic body in fashion illustration will expend expressive method and we will understand human and cultural codes of today.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.43-54
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• 2014

In textile industry, needs for various weave drafts have been increased to produce high qualified textile goods. One of disadvantages of traditional textile industry was spending time and money on manual sampling. Nowadays, however, weave draft design and sampling using CAD programs reduce these consumption efficiently. Therefore, this study aimed to provide high qualified woven fabrics by weave draft designs influenced by geometric patterns. First, We analyzed geometric patterns, except for dot, stripe, and checks, in fashion collections from 2009 to 2014 S/S. Then, based on these analyses, design concepts were decided. Third, weave drafts influenced by geometric patterns were designed with weave CAD program, TEX PRO 10.0 by Youngwoo CNI inc. Forth, We simulated fabrics woven by new drafts using CAD programs, depending on fibers, yarns, density of woven, colors, and finishes. Unclassified geometric patterns would be expressed by small size patterns that influenced by retro moods, square patterns with various color variation, zigzag lines, and pieces of puzzles. Three design concepts were decided as greenness, neoclassic, and romantic chic. Thus, geometric patterns for printing were created as drafts for general looms, and one repeat of each draft were provided. According to the design concepts, we designed 13 fabrics with 4 geometric patterns weaving drafts. All Drafts were designed with CAD programs. Finally, same drafts were simulated as woven fabrics for both S/S and F/W seasons by changing each element, such as fiber, yarns, density, colors, and finishes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.101-110
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• 2014

In this study, we investigate characteristics of fall, requirements toward the impact protective clothing, design preferences, etc. to develop the fall impact protective clothing for the silver-aged women. Among the 242 women respondents aging 50s to 70s, 43% experienced the fall in recent 2 years. It is found that the fall mostly occurred in winter season and happened during the regular activities such as walking outside, going up and down stairs. Most of the respondents have no experience buying the impact protective clothing, but they expressed the fall impact protective clothing would help reducing the injury from falls. Moreover, the intention to purchase the impact protective clothing is increasing with an increasing target age. However, the respondents concerned with increasing volume and weight of clothing by the protecting pad inserted into the clothing. The respondents also claimed that the impact protecting clothing should not interfere with their regular physical activities. The survey showed that respondents preferred to embed the impact protective function in pants as a form of the protective clothing. For the design preferences on the pants, casual style and straight silhouette was preferred and stretch fabric was selected. The respondents preferred underwear made of cotton spandex blend with relaxed fit.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.559-568
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to identify the socio-psychological variables and demographic factors influencing the difficulty people may have in discarding fashion goods. In addition, differences of disposal behavior were investigated according to the degree of reported difficulty with which people discarded fashion goods. A total of 260 survey questionnaires were analyzed. Frequency, correlation, exploratory factor analysis, reliability, t-test and multiple regression analyses were used for data analysis using SPSS 22.0. The study results were as follows. First, the difficulty of discarding of fashion goods was positively affected by concern for the environment and the potential for creative reuse of fashion goods, whereas it was not influenced by interdependence. Second, there were differences in the difficulty with which people discarded fashion goods according to demographic factors such as gender and whether or not they held certain religious beliefs; however, there were no differences among other demographic factors. Third, the group demonstrating a high degree of difficulty in discarding fashion goods preferred certain disposal behaviors such as donating to religious organizations, schools, charities etc., exchanging with other people or bartering, reforming for other purposes, selling to secondhand shops or on the internet, storing without wearing it, or discarding it after salvaging reusable parts. The results of this study provide various guidelines for consumers and retailers of fashion products who are interested in the efficient disposal of fashion goods.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.608-619
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• 2017

In this research, we analyze jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S~2015 F/W to investigate how shape, tailoring component, and design of jackets have changed. Our analysis of 2,493 jackets from the collection shows that the hour-glass silhouette was the most popular among silhouettes and that standard-length was the most popular jacket length. Such jacket shape expresses the natural beauty of human body. Regarding Tailoring Components, our analysis shows that tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which is neither too wide, padded, nor low, were prevalent. The analysis also shows that tailored collar and button closure were the most common. Tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which fit the body outline, allow the silhouette to show natural curves of the human body. As for jacket design, popular colors differed by season, but single-colored jackets prevailed, and woven was the most used material. Since 2000, the most favored form of jacket in women's fashion was a standard-length jacket with an hour-glass silhouette, tight sleeve, natural shoulder line, and tailored collar. This suggests that jackets emphasizing natural curves of the body were favored. Overall, silhouette, length, sleeve, and shoulder line remained consistent while collar and closure varied. This indicates that collar and closure method play a significant role in changes in fashion. Seasonally, elements of shape, tailoring component, and design coexist, but once the shape is determined, the tailoring component and design change in relation to each other.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 2003

Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.564-579
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• 2014

Packaging of shopping bag is a 'silent salesman' which plays an important role in marketing communication due to the increase of self-service outlets and changing lifestyles of customers. Retail shopping bags, which are defined as bags provided by retailers to customer as a means of transporting merchandise, are a type of secondary packaging. This study explored the effect of a fashion product's shopping bag types in sense of shopping value, customers' response, attitude toward advertising, and purchase intention. Data was analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, correlation, structural equation modeling using SPSS 18.0 and AMOS 18.0. The results of this study were as follows. Consumers' responses about shopping bags show that there are some differences between consumers who have either hedonic or utilitarian shopping value. Hedonic shopping value influences on consumers' response as unique, interesting, and attention; however utilitarian value affects prestige in addition to those four significant factors. Therefore, this study shows that consumer response is different in accordance with shopping value. Thus, using the various types of shopping bags can be influenced on effective advertising. It will also great effect on marketing activity with lower cost. The significant result from this study has proven that the shopping bag is correlates to the definition of pop art today because it can offer an opportunity to look at, play with and buy sophisticated visual stimulus. Therefore, retail and brands have to concern about shopping bag considering their decisive role in the apparel market.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.554-563
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to investigate the purchase behavior, the level of shopping satisfaction for inbound Chinese tourists buying fashion products and the analysis of the influence of fashion product purchase criteria and effects of store attributes toward shopping satisfaction in Korea. Subjects were selected through convenient sampling technique in Incheon International Airport. A self-administered questionnaire was developed in Chinese by translation and back-translation method. Finally, 284 questionnaire out of 420 were used for data analysis. To analyze data, factor analysis, correlation analysis, regression analysis, etc. were carried out. A used statistical package was PASW 18.0. The analysis results were as follows. First, most of the repondents were women in 20s and 30s, who were purchasing fashion products more than other during the period of travel. Second, the product purchase criteria were identified as 'practicality', 'design and quality', 'memorabilia' and 'hallyu'. As the analysis results, shopping satisfaction was influenced by 'design and quality' and 'hallyu'. Thirdly, the effects of store attributes were identified as 'product', 'environment' and 'employees'. and customer's shopping satisfaction was influenced by all of those. By the end of this paper, For the purpose of achieving more competitive fashion products, the 4P marketing strategies targeting Chinese tourists were discussed based on the results.