• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.358-362
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• 1999

두께와 무게가 다양한 23종의 직물을 대상으로 최대하중 10, 20, 35, 50, 70 $gf/cm^2$의 5종류 다양한 조건 하에서 압축-두께곡선을 측정함으로써 저응력에서 압축특성과 두께, 태를 분석하였다. 최대하중이 증가함에 따라 LC(curve linearity)는 증가하였으며 WC(compressional energy)는 감소하였다. 또한, 최대하중에 따라 RC(compressional resilience)는 변화가 없었다. LC와 WC는 직물이 두꺼울수록 크게 나타났으며 RC는 중간 두께의 직물에서 가장 크게 나타났다. 최대하중 20 $gf/cm^2$에서 측정한 LC와 WC가 주관적 태 평가결과와 가장 상관이 깊었으며 Speamnan's rho는 .86과 .82였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.229-240
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of hydrophilicity of the fiber on the water vapor transport properties of the fabric by using double layered fabrics of natural and synthetic fibers such as cotton, wool, nylon, dacron, orlon and polypropylene. Wickability and absorption rate were measured to determine the absorbancy of the fabrics. Dynamic and steady state water vapor transport properties were measured by cobaltous chloride method and evaporation method, respectively. Absorption was in the order of orlon> cotton > wool > nylon > polypropylene > dacron. Dynamic surface wetness of synthetic fabrics were faster than that of natural fabrics. For the double layered fabrics, higher water vapor transport was resulted when the natural fabric was exposed to lower vapor pressure and synthetic fabric was exposed to higher vapor pressure than when the fabrics were layered the other way around. Opposite result was obtained for orlon, which suggested that when the fabric of high absorbancy is exposed to the environment and lower absorbancy is to the skin, higher water vapor transpont could be resulted.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.70-74
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• 2005

This study was aimed to isolation and identification of attached bacteria on the clothes excavated from Deajeon area dating on the 16th century. From the observation with colony shape, 17 bacterial strains were isolated, and then 7 bacterial strains were identified with morphological and biochemical characteristics. Streptococcus sp., Alcaligenes faecalis, Gemella sp., Acinetobacter sp., Pseudomonas vesicularis, Aeromonas sain. salmonicida, Moraxella spp. In observation of the bacterial strains by the sort of textile, more bacterial strains were found in silk, cotton, and cotton batt than in ramie and hemp. It is suggest that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of bacterial strains in washed samples. In the cellulase activity tests, all isolated bacteria had low level cellulase activity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.201-215
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• 2014

This study explores the kinds and types of dyes used in the Joseon Dynasty. Some literature including "Sanga Yorok", "Gyuhap Chongseo", "Imwon Gyeonjeji" were reviewed for this purpose. The findings are as follows. The colors obtained from the dyes were divided into seven color series, such as red, yellow and orange, green, blue, purple, brown, gray and black. These are practical color categories differed from abstract five cardinal colors [五方色]. The diachronic dyes used during the Joseon Dynasty were safflower and Japanese alder bark for red, indigo leaves for blue, gromwell for purple, chestnut tree bark for brown. The representative dyes used in the late Joseon Dynasty were safflower and sappan wood for red, wild pear tree bark and Pentapetes phoenicea for yellow and orange, indigo leaves for blue, sappan wood and gromwell for purple, mulberry tree for brown, and Chinese ink for gray. Common dyes used both in Joseon and China were safflower and sappan wood for red, pagoda tree blossom for yellow, a combination of pagoda tree blossom (or Amur cork tree) and indigo leaves (or sediment) for green, indigo leavers or sediment for blue, sappan wood and hollyhock for purple, and a combination of indigo leaves and Galla Rhois for gray and black.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.181-187
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• 1992

일반적으로 면섬유는 햇빛에 의해서 변색되거나 약해지며 또 그 외에도 여러가지 물리적, 화학적인 변화를 일으키게 된다. 구체적인 화학반응의 메카니즘은 사용되는 광선의 스펙트럼, 대기조건(실내인 경우는 실내 환경조건) , 산소의 유무 그리고 염료 등 첨가물의 종류와 같은 여러 요소에 의해 크게 영향을 받게 된다. 환경조건 중에서 산소의 존재는 매우 중요하지만 open system에서 산소의 농도가 일정하다고 가정할 때 면섬유가 접하고 있는 환경조건 중에서 온도와 습도는 photodegradation의 속도를 결정짓는 중요한 요인으로 작용하게 된다. 박물관,:기념관, 도서관 등의 소장품이 자연광선이나 인공조명으로부터 손상되는 것을 막기 위해서는 먼저 이들의 photodegradation 현상에 대한 연구를 필요로 한다. 본 연구에서는 면시칩포를 자연광선과 가장 흡사한 스펙트럼을 가진 xenon arc lamp를 사용한 내후도 시험기내에서 온도와 습도를 조절하여 이에 따른 반응속도의 차이를 인열강도의 감소와 중합도 저하로 측정하였다. 1차 반응식은 실험결과를 설명하는데 유용하였으며 온 · 습도의 증가는 반응속도를 증가시키는 것으로 나타나 기존의 상반된 연구결과의 차이를 입증하였다. 또 온도와 습도는 상호관련이 있는 것으로 나타났으며 고온인 경우습도의 영향을 더 크게 받는 것으로 분석되었다. 반응의 활성에너지는 $30\~75\%$ RH에서는 12 kcal/mole 정도이며 수분의 함량이 낮을수록 활성화에너지는 커지는 것으로 나타나 수분은 섬유소 분자구조내에서 가소제 (plasticizer)의 역할을 하는 것으로 판명되었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권7호
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• pp.1196-1204
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• 1997

Cotton, rayon/cotton, and Tencel twill weave fabrics were used to investigate the effect of fiber types on the cellulase washing finish. And twill. basket, and derivative weave cotton fabrics were used to study the weave effect. Various fabrics were treated with neutral cellulase varying treatment times and with acid cellulase, stone, and stone-neutral cellulase respectively for two hours in a rotary washer. Weight loss decreased in the order of rayon/cotton> cotton> Tencel, and basket and derivative weave fabrics lost more weight than twill weave fabric. Color difference decreased in the order of cotton> Tencel> rayon/cotton, and twill weave fabric had larger color difference than derivative and basket weave fabrics. Back staining decreased in the order of cotton> rayon/cotton> Tencel, and twill weave fabric had larger back staining than derivative and basket weave fabrics. Tear strength retention decreased in the order of rayon/cotton> cotton> Tencet and twill weave fabric had larger tear strength retention than derivative and basket weave fabrics. Flex stiffness retention decreased in the order of cotton> Tencel> rayon/cotton, and in the order of derivative> twill> basket weave. In cotton fibers, damage of primary wall was observed. And the cellulase treatment on Tencel seemed to roughen the fabric surface slightly, and to fibril fibers along the fiber axis.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권2호
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• pp.296-305
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• 2017

Gallnuts are known to exert various pharmaceutical properties that include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and detoxifying effects. Gallnut extract is thought to be a particularly safe antimicrobial agent for textile application due to its natural origins. Hence, textiles were dyed with gallnut to develop multi-functional clothing material with no harmful effects. In this study, three kinds of cool touch woven fabrics, each comprised of 100% viscose rayon filament, viscose rayon filament/high absorption & quick dry (polyester) filament, and viscose rayon $filament/tencel^{(R)}$ spun yarn, were prepared and used as substrates for gallnut dyeing to especially develop functional cool touch textiles for summer clothing material. On the other hand, gallnut dyeing was conducted with mordanting with iron, lime or alum, which induced different colors on the dyed textiles. Dyed textiles were then investigated by SEM, FTIR, antibacterial test, and antioxidant test. Subsequently, gallnut dyed textiles indicated excellent antibacterial ability and deodorization activity regardless of mordant species. However, only gallnut dyed textiles mordanted with iron and alum showed significant antioxidant ability. In addition, the dyeing processes impair the cool touch feeling of the textiles by changing the micro structure of the textile surface.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.228-234
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze the differences in fashion attitudes between adolescents and the parents of adolescents. 562 adolescents and 163 parents' responses in South Korea are used for the analysis. Survey questionnaires specifically designed for the adolescents and parents are used to compare the differences of the two populations. The results suggest that adolescents and parents in South Korea have different evaluation values for adolescents' fashion goods and school uniforms. The Adolescents placed a premium on 'Comfort' and 'Design' for fashion goods and school uniforms. However, the parents placed a premium on 'Practicality' and 'Price' values for fashion goods and school uniforms. The school uniform items which were most accepted in Korean middle and high schools need the change in composition of items for four seasons. In purchasing behavior, the adolescents answered that they have more than one item of preferred fashion brand. The Korean adolescents prefer famous sportswear brand like Nike, Adidas and etc. The fashion market for adolescents in Korea is closely related with the parents in shopping behaviors. The comparison of the fashion attitude between parents and their children is more practical method for developing the adolescents' fashion items and young fashion market.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.294-301
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• 2013

Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.

• 대한인간공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한인간공학회 1993년도 추계학술대회논문집
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• pp.189-204
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• 1993

산업화로 인한 급속한 경제성장과 증가하는 여성들의 사회진출은 의생활에서 보다 편 하고 간소화된 생활양식을 추구하게 되고, 이에따라 의복의 구입에 있어서도 맞춤복보다 는 시간, 경제면에서 유리한 기성복을 선호하게 되었다. 불특정다수를 위한 기성복의 생산에 있어서 개개인의 체형에 보다 적합성이 좋은 제품의 개발을 위해 다수인의 다항 목계측치에 근거한 치수체계의 설정은 무엇보다 중요한 문제가 된다. 우리나라에서는 1979년 공업진흥청에 의해 제 1차 국민표준체위조사가 실시되었으며, 1986년에는 제 2차 조사가 실시되어 그 결과를 토대로 한국 공업규격의 의류치수 규격이 제정 발표되었다. 그러나 이것은 연령에 따른 신체적 변화를 고려한 체형분류가 되어 있지 않으며, 제품 호수에 따라 동일한 간격을 둔 체계였다. 1992년에는 제 3차 국민표준체위조사가 실시 되어 그 결과가 발표되었다. 의복은 인체계측에 의한 신체 각 부위의 치수와 형태를 기초로 2차원적인 소재에 적절한 원형을 사용하여 재단, 봉제과정을 거쳐 3차원의 입체 로 구성하고 인체에 대응시킨 것이므로 기성복에 대하여 소비자의 치수적합성을 만족시 키기 위해서는 체형의 특징을 고려해야 할 것이다. 특히, 성장이 완료된 성인 여성은 출산후 중년에 접어들면서 신체적 특성이 변하여 체형이 바뀌는 경향이 있으므로 전 여성에대한 의류치수규격보다는 연령의 구분과 체형의 분류가 필요하다고 본다. 더우기 의류업체들의 판매대상의 세분화는 이를 더욱 뒷받침해주고 있다. 따라서 체형의 분류는 의복 치수 규격에 적용되어 의복의 종류에 따라 대다수의 불특정 다수 에게 보다 잘 맞는 의복 치수를 제공할 것이며, 그 치수의 정확성을 증대시키게 된다. 김성득(1991)은 소비자의 기성복에 대한 구매확률을 높이기 위해서는 규격치를 등간격 으로 하기 보다는 소비자의 분포밀도가 높은 곳일수록 규격치 간격들을 좁게 설정함으 로써 생산자 입장에서 총손실을 줄이고, 상대적 비용절감효과를 갖게할 수 있다고 하였다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 성인 여성기성복의 치수적합성을 높이기위하여 출산 후 중년에 접어 들면서 체형이 변화되는 것을 고려하여 연령을 분류하고(18세-34세, 30세-51세), 각 연령 집단에 따른 체형을 각각 3가지로 분류하였다. 이에 따라 의복 생산시의 총손실을 줄이기위한 상의, 하의생산시 필요한 부위별 최적규격치 간격을 제시하였다.