• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.295-304
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• 2005

Recently, arbutin, oil soluble licorice extact (GLY), ascorbyl glucoside (AA2G), and ethyl ascorbyl ether (EAE) have been widely used as functional whitening ingredients. To Investigate which combination between the above agents could be more effective for whitening effect, tyrosinase activity and MSH-induced melanin production in B-16 melanoma cells were investigated. Both GLY and arbutin dose-dependently inhibited purified tyrosinase activity. The inhibitory effects of GLY with AA2A or EAE on Drosinase activity were more potent than those of GLY alone, whereas that of arbutin with other ingreadients did not show those effects. In MSH-induced melanin production in B-16 melanoma cells, the mixture of Gly and EAE more significantly reduced melanin formation than Gly alone. Stability of mixture of GLY, arbutin, AA2A and EAE exposed at the temperature of $25^{\circ}C\;or\;45^{\circ}C$ for 30 days were also investigated. All of the combinations of whitening agents did not show any critical changes in their composition stability. These data suggest that the combination of GLY and vitamin C derivatives such as AA2G and EAE may be useful for the promotion of whitening effect.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.635-644
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• 2019

The aim of this study was to investigate whitening effect of combination between arbutine and oil soluble licorice extract. Inhibitory effects of arbutin and oil soluble licorice extract against tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells were assessed in vitro to determine whitening effect. MTT assay with B16 melanoma cells showed that mixture (arbutin and oil soluble) was not each concentration. Both oil soluble licorice extract and arbutin induced dose-dependent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity. Various concentrations (oil soluble extract : arbutin = 1:1. 1:1.5, 1:2, 1:2.5, 1:5) of mixtures also significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity in B16 melanoma cells by 40-51%. In addition, the mixtures reduced the melanin contents of B16 melanoma cells by more than 50% at each concentration. These results suggest that mixtures of arbutin and oil soluble licorice extract are very effective whitening ingredients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.197-201
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• 2007

Oil soluble licorice extract(licorice extract) is an officially approved cosmetic component as a whitening ingredient in Korea. The durability of licorice, during which the whitening effect can be maintained in optimum condition, must be accurately defined. Since the cosmetics durability under real condition is relatively longer than its development time. It is needed to predict the real durability interval from the experimental measurement under simulated operating conditions. We analyzed the relationship between the licorice lifetime and the high temperature condition by using Arrhenius equation. We have established the constant stress test with temperature of $50^{\circ}C$, $55^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$ condition, within which no formulation change of licorice products is expected for the accelerated stress test. In this paper, the lifetime of licorice in cosmetics was defined as time period for its 10% contents reduction. We observed that the lifetime of licorice is 580 h at $50^{\circ}C$, 319 h at $55^{\circ}C$ and 166 h at $60^{\circ}C$. Using the above experimental data, we obtained the equation for the relationship between the licorice lifetime and temperature as follows; log(lifetime)=-35.0243 + 1.15322$\times$(11604.83/temperature). From this equation, the lifetime of licorice at $25^{\circ}C$ can be estimated as 26 months. The estimated result was verified by measuring full lifetime of licorice. In fact, there was no significant difference between the estimated lifetime and real measurement within 95 % significance level. This study can be applied to other useful cosmetic components for the fast estimation of the exact durability.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.123-134
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• 2003

고속액체크로마토그래피 방법을 사용하여 동시에 arbutin, 메탄올에 녹인 methyl, ethyl, prpyl, butyl parben과 glablidien(유용성감초추출물)을 파장 254와 276 nm에서 Gradient methanol로 octdecyl culumn을 사용하여측정하였다. arbutin와 glablidien 농도 0.5-1.0 ug/ml 파라벤류는 0.1-2.0 ug/ml에서 검량선이 직선으로 작성되었다. 검량이 직선으로 나타나 정량분석을 할 수 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 샘플 전처리가 크로마토그래피로 측정하기에 좋은 방법이란 것을 판정하기 위하여 일반로션을 사용하여 판정하였다. 이 방법의 정확도는 모든 측정물질(arbutin, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, glablidine)의 회수율 상대표준편차(RSD)가 (0.28-2.55%) 나타나 신뢰성 있는 결과를 보였다.A high-performance liquid chromatographic method for the simultaneous determination of arbutine, a mixture of methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl parabens dissolved in methoanol and Glrablidine(Oil Soluble Licorice), was studied by using a ODS C18 column and a methanol gradient at 254 and 276 nm. Calibration curves were found to be linear in the 0.5-1.0 ug/ml range(compounds arbutine, glrablidin) and 0.1-20 ug/ml (compounds methylpaaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben). Linear regression analysis of the data demonstrates the efficacy of the method in terms of precision and accuracy. An extraction method is developed and validated in order to apply this chromatographic method to a cosmetic lotion. The presision of this method, calculated as the relativ standard deviation(RSD) of the recoveries(0.28-2.55%) was excellent for all compounds.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.1 s.55
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• pp.35-44
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• 2006

Recently, encapsulation studies have been tarried out to protect active agents using shell materials such as polymers, lipids, inorganic materials and the other protective materials. We have prepared copolymers of methylmethacrylate (MMA) and trimethoxysilylpropylmethacrylate (TMPMA), and the copolymers as shell materials were used for encapsulating active agents. Poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) spheres were very efficient for encapsulating active agents such as vitamin derivatives (such as retinol, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) and oil soluble licorice extract etc. Mean diameters of poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) core-shell spheres containing active agents varied between about 0.1 to $10{\mu}m$ according to the experimental conditions. The loading amount of encapsulating active agents was 15 to 25% (w/w) and the loading yield was above 90%. The stability of active agents in poly(MMA-co-TMPMA) core-shell spheres prepared with an UV absorbing precursor increased by 25% compared with that of active agents in spheres prepared without an UV absorbing precursor.