• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.607-620
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• 2020

The aim of this study is to define the new expressive techniques for multicolored clamp resist (hyuphill) dyeing, based on empirical verification on relics that are estimated to be dyed by the exchange of more than two wood blocks: a previously undiscovered technique. Clamp resist dyeing (assumed to be made by exchanging wood blocks) have uneven resist printing lines or cloudy gradation. These are reproduced as follows: first, they have uneven contour lines, particularly with the color blue. It is possible to exchange wood blocks separately on patterns with uneven resist printing lines, and it has been verified that the exchange of wood blocks makes these irregular resist printing lines. It has also been verified that exchanging the wood blocks according to the gradation (to emphasize the cubic effect on the patterns) yields clamp resist dyeing with no resist printing lines but with cloudy gradations that have accented borders. This study provides basic information that enables methods of multicolored clamp resist dyeing through wood block exchange to be deduced (something that has not been attempted for a long time). Thus, the revival of the modern Korean dyeing culture based on the conservation and perseverance of the traditional dyeing techniques can be achieved.

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.97-108
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• 1999

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$ focus on Color and Dying. $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$is a novel described the life style of Royal Court from 883 till 1107. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. The materials of colors and dyeing which are described in this book reflect the features of the age well. We can assume that the point of its chic might rest on colors and dyeing than design or pattern. 2. Sine they enjoyed wearing lots of clothes which are in the same design but in different colors with the underwear. When color coordinate was fashioned we call them "Kasanenoirome". This type of dressing was in vogue in the age of Heian when there were several devices of showing chic in dressing. 3. The color of clothes at that time might represent one's official position the black the highest class following the purple the red and the blue or green. The black color was made from the purple or blue. The Japanese Emperor would wear reddish yellow or blue clothes according to the nature of his office work. 4. Some of Japanese fashion might be influenced by Korean styles in the respects of coordinating colors and adjusting Buddhist fashion etc. It is required that the turther studies of comparing Korean fashion styles with Japanese ones should be deepened. deepened.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.155-169
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary (원씨물어)$\lrcorner$. This book is a novel written by a Japanese sextant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments 8f Ornaments ; All the Clothing and Textiles in $\ulcorner$Genjimonkatary$\lrcorner$ were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color, Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors Sf Dyes; There were many kinds of Color SE Dyes described in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary$\lrcorner$. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period. $\ulcorner$Kasaneno-irome (강색목)$\lrcorner$ was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (금제) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors'name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro (청색) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials IE Patterns : The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome (신염) was very special and nice method in that period.

• 화훼연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

운간초의 분화 품질을 향상시키기 위하여 'Kumoma'와 'Kumoma-Gusa' 두 품종의 생장과 개화에 미치는 영향을 구명하고자 식물생장억제제 (PGRs) 4종을 처리하였다. 식물생장억제제 종류와 처리농도는 paclobutrazol (10, 20, 40, $80mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$), flurprimidol (5, 10, 20, $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$), daminozide (500, 1000, 2000, $4000mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$), chlormequat (50, 100, 200, $400mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$)이고 엽면살포와 토양관주 방법으로 처리하였다. Paclobutrazol $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 처리는 운간초의 두 품종에서 초장과 화경장을 줄이는데 효과적이었다. 'Kumoma' 품종에서, paclobutrazol $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 엽면살포와 토양관주 처리방법은 초장을 각각 12.6, 12.5 cm로, 화경장은 3.4, 3.3 cm로 줄일 수 있었다. 'Kumoma-Gusa' 품종에서는 paclobutrazol 토양관주는 처리 농도가 증가함에 따라 초장은 13.2-10.7 cm, 화경장은 3.9-2.0 cm까지 줄일 수 있었지만 꽃의 수는 대조구와 비교했을 때 현저하게 감소하여서 20개까지 감소하였다. Flurprimidol $20mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 스프레이와 토양관주 처리는 두 품종 모두 초장과 화경장을 줄일 수 있었다. 'Kumoma' 품종에서 flurprimidol $10mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 스프레이 또는 토양관주 처리는 개화 품질을 향상시킬 수 있었고 대조구와 비교해 꽃의 수는 44.7개 이상, 출하 일수는 5일 정도 빨리 출하 할 수 있었다. 'Kumoma-Gusa' 품종에서 PGRs처리에 의한 초장과 화경장 억제효과가 가장 큰 것은 paclobutrazol $80mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$과 flurprimidol $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 이었고 paclobutrazol과 flurprimidol 스프레이와 토양관주 처리에서 각각, 초장은 10.7, 9.9 cm, 화경장은 2.0, 1.5 cm 로 생장 억제효과가 가장 큰 것을 알 수 있었다. 그러나 flurprimidol $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 토양관주 처리에서 출하일수는 농도에 따라 3-13일 정도 대조구보다 늦어졌고 꽃의 수는 15.6개로 가장 적은 것을 관찰 할 수 있었다. 두 품종 모두에서 daminozide 처리는 초장과 화경장이 줄어들지 않았지만 'Kumoma' 품종에서는 대조구와 비교했을 때 꽃의 수가 증가하였다. Chlormequat 처리는 paclobutrazol 과 flurprimidol 처리와 비교했을 때 화경장 감소효과는 작았고 처리 식물의 잎은 다른 처리에 비해 연한 녹색을 보여주었다. 두 품종 모두에서 chlormequat 과 daminozide 처리는 생육과 개화 품질에 효과적으로 영향을 주지는 않았지만 꽃의 수는 모든 처리농도에서 41개 이상을 보여주었고, 'Kumoma-Gusa' 품종에 chlormequat 토양관주 처리는 최대 꽃의 수 63개를 볼 수 있었다. 이번 결과들은 paclobutrazol 과 flurprimidol 처리가 운간초 분화의 품질 향상을 위한 화경장의 생육을 조절하는 생장억제제로서 사용 될 수 있음을 보여 주었고, 'Kumoma' 품종에서는 paclobutrazol $40mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 스프레이는 생육특성을, flurprimidol $10mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 토양관주 방법은 개화관련 특성의 품질을 향상시키는 생장억제제의 농도로 추천 될 수 있고, 'Kumoma-Gusa' 품종에서는 flurprimidol $20mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 스프레이와 flurprimidol $5mg{\cdot}L^{-1}$ 토양관주 방법이 운간초 분화의 생육특성과 개화품질을 향상시키는 생장억제제의 농도로 추천 될 수 있다.