• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.149-162
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• 2008

The Regular rule of Sang-uiwon served as a manual of Royal Attires. According to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission, Royal ceremonial attire was made and presented to the royal family. The materials for the Royal informal dress were presented in accordance with usual tributes. There was no difference in informal dress between the royal family and noble class. But the name of items was different such as Goa du[man's jacket], Go ui[woman's jacket], etc. The royal family continued to wear old days dress as akjurm and noui, which were not worn by common people any more, as a means of differentiating clothes. Bub-bok, which was designed only for key figures of the royal family such as the king, crown prince, queen, and crown princess, was the best status symbol. Because of its highly limited example of wearing, bub-bok was the authority of the wearer itself; with only difference in color, pattern, and material depending on social status. Yong-po is the most frequently worn by the Royal men. Yong-po worn with jong-lip served as yung-bok or gun-bok, and iksun-gwan functioned as sang-bok. Royal Attire for men was clearly divided into Yong-po as sang-bok, bub-bok as myun-bok and gangsa-po, while jeok-ui for women functioned as both sang-bok and bub-bok. However, the use of jeok-ui was defined by differentiate sang-bok from bub-bok like as the pattern of Hyung-bae, number of embroidered round badges, shoes and ornaments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.655-670
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to identify the figurative characteristics and symbolic meanings of the patterns of royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty based on the theoretical examination as well as the overall characteristics of the colors based on the quantitative analysis of colors. This study focused on the costumes of King Young royal families in the late Joseon Dynasty which is the last costume of Joseon Dynasty and classified 129 relics under preservation for the analysis. This study analyzed the colors using the digital data in the picture brochure as the previous studies did and presented the color palette. Based on this, a variety of textile designs that are developed by using the traditional patterns and colors could be applied to the modern fashion designs. For Patterns used in costumes of King Young royal families, the five pattern categories include animals, plants, letters, and geometric patterns and the final category of other types. The features of color in the costume were v tone of Y color and lt and p tones of Y color. The implication of this study is to develop textile designs which reflects conversion of past and modern cultures and cultural identity by applying the traditional cultural elements through literature review and empirical study and theses developed 8 textile designs could be applied to the various modesrn fashion designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.19-33
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• 2008

Hair style of royal ladies in the 19th century according to the wedding record of King Heon-jong and Lady Sunhwagung is studied in this paper and summarized as follows: First, Saengmeori was a bridal hair style for the wedding night in Gyeonmagi(jacket) and Daeranchima(Skirt with gold trimming). It was a typical girls' hair style before the coming-of-age ceremony. It was composed of Saengmeoridari(wig), Seockunghwang, Jogduri(Coronet decorated with Jewellery), Saengdaeng-gi(hair ribbon) trimmed pearls, and jade disk trimmed pearls. Second, Garaemeori(double bun hair style) was the hair style with Wonsam when the chosen bride went to Byeol-Gung, a special palace for the bridal. It was composed of Gareachi(wig) and Cheopji(small wig) with the frontal hair ornament, jogduri, and Saidang-gi(hair ribbon). Third, Jojimmeori(single bun hair style) is a basic hair style for the madame. It was composed of jojimmeorichilbo, jogduri, jojimmeoridari(wig), and Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament. Fourth, Keunmeori is the second most important hair style for the court ceremony. It was composed of Eoyeomjogduri, Eoyeomdari(wig), Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament, Keunmeoridari(wig), and Keunmeorichilbo. Fifth, Susik, the most important hair style for the court ceremony, is the hair style for ceremonies including the day of becoming the formal queen, the first greeting day to the King's family. It was composed of 4 kinds of wigs and Susik-chilbo.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.521-531
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• 2019

Uigwe Banchado are paintings of court events and royal ceremonies of the Joseon dynasty. The paintings record national events and ceremonial rituals performed by the Joseon royal family, such as marriages, celebrations, enthronements, processions to royal tombs, and archery ceremonies. This record provides a combination of information about the event's appearance, including preparation, procedure, people involved, reproductions worn by the participants, and the items used at that time. Through the realistic depictions painted in the Uigwe Banchado, in particular, one can grasp the scene of events at the time and reproduce the diverse attire worn by participants in the event. Based on 31 representative Uigwe Banchado, 550 knowledge nodes were written. These include 31 royal protocols, 41 attires, 136 clothes, 8 storage facilities, 120 objects, 55 people, 33 places and 83 concepts. The meaningful relationships between each node can be explored via a network graph. Digital illustrations of the 41 attires were created to aid in the understanding of Joseon dynasty royal ceremonial ritual attire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.96-108
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• 2009

This study is made on the royal lady's dress In late Joseon dynasty according to the King Heon-jong and Lady Kyung-bin's Wedding Diary in the year of Jung-mi(1847) and summarised as follows: Girls' full dress was a set of a red skirt, a violet undo. jacket, and a light yellow jacket and a green Gyeon-ma-gi(a kind of top jacket) with he. hair Saeng-meo-ri hanging Do-tu-rak-daeng-gi(a kind of hair ribbon). At the big ceremony, girls wore a green Dang-ui instead of Gyeon-ma-gi. A girl picked up as a royal concubine wore a green Won-sam, which was decorated with gilt letters meaning longevity, patched emblems of gilt letter meaning longevity on the breast and on the back, belted with Bong-dae(a red sash with gilt phoenexes), like a princess's full dress. At the Kyung-bin's installation of Crown Princess and her first greeting ceremony with royal elders, she wore a green Won-sam as a formal dress, which had an embroidered emblem of phoenix, the belt with crystal ornaments, Pae-ok(佩玉), Kyu(圭) of blue jade, Shou(綬) with an phoenix. At a Dong-wrae-yun(drinking ceremony after bride and bridegroom's bowing to each other), she wore the embroidered red Jang-sam as a formal dress. Kyung-bin wore a purple Won-sam with Bong-dae as a full dress for a royal feast. According to the occasions, the same dress was differentiated with ornaments and rotors. Ji-keum-bal was an attire for ordinary ceremony. The attire was equipped with a woven gold green Dang-ui with an emblem of phoenix, a blue gilt underskirt and a red gilt overskirt. No-ui was worn as outdoor clothes. Jang-sam was worn by various classes, so it was differentiated with materials and names according to her class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.51-70
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• 2010

The ritual to change the hairstyle holds the same meaning as the coming of age ceremony. The ceremony was performed throughout three times including choga, jaega, and samga. The garment and hairstyle attuned to the ceremony formalities. Women in the royal family had 'su-siK when they were fully grown up during choga, 'gwang-sik' during Jaega, and 'keun-meo-ri (big hairstyle)' during samga. 'su-sik' is the noblest hairstyle according to social status, which is allowed to be worn only by spouse of king and prince, regardless of adult or not. During jaega, 'gwang-sik' which was 'u-yeo-meo-ri', is made by winding 'darae (wig)' around a jjok-jin-muri (bun) [Jo-jim-meo-ri]? which distinguished the hairstyle of unmarried women, who did not go through a coming of age ceremony yet. Unmarried women maintained a hairstyle which is mostly twisted into one string, but they had 'saeang-meo-ri' when they were prepared for ceremonial costumes. Also, they had 'ga-raemeo-ri' when growing further. keun-meo-ri during samga is an addition of keun-meo-ri chaebal(wig) onto u-yeo-meo-ri. Women in the royal family made geo-du-mi by adding keun-meo-ri, which is formed by twisting wig, and oimyeongbu (noble ladies) and sanggung (court ladies) added a wooden wig called u-yeo-mi. Also, yeoryeong wore ga-ri-ma. In this way, the types of hairstyles were distinguished according to hierarchy. As the coming of age ceremonial dress. Wonsam was worn. During choga. wonsam was worn as a formal dress and during jaega and samga wonsam was worn as a full dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.115-126
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• 2002

This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.83-90
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• 2023

The recent trend in younger generations of wearing traditional costumes or incorporating fusion hanbok into daily wear necessitates the development of modern hair accessories to complement hanbok. The purpose of this study is to develop practical and modern hair accessory designs inspired by royal women's hair ornaments that complement hanbok, and therefore expand the scope of fashion content development utilizing hanbok culture as well as meeting the demand for various experiences of traditional culture. This research studied the literature on traditional hairstyles and accessories of Queen Yeong and constructed models of these accessories for the purpose of empirical research. The production process first required creating a basic foundation of nylon mesh reflecting the silhouette of a traditional hairstyle, and then grafting a digital textile printed fabric using majestic and extravagant royal relics on top, thus employing the trompe l'oeil technique to ultimately give the impression of wearing traditional jewelry. As a result, a total of six hair accessory designs were completed, produced with hairbands, hair pins, and hair ties. In addition, the accessories are designed to be easily worn regardless of the wearer's hair style, and the stiff yet flexible nylon mesh effectively expresses the shape of a voluminous hairstyle and creates an optical illusion, blending into the hair. These research results present a unique aesthetic and cultural experience to the greater public seeking both daily entertainment and value from rarity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1681-1692
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• 2001

본 연구는 광복 이후 현재까지 첫돌 복식 변화를 시대적으로 고찰, 그 변화 양상과 영 향 요인을 규명하는 것을 목적으로 하고 있다. 연구 방법은 문헌 고찰과 사진 자료를 통한 내용 분석을 주로 하였다. 더불어 자료의 보충을 위해 첫돌 의례와 관련된 주변 인물들-가족, 기성 아동 한복 유통 상인, 상업적 사진사 등-의 면접 조사도 병행하였다. 이상의 연구를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1940년대 중반∼50년대 초에는 해방 이후 혼란과 전란으로 인한 물자의 부족으로 첫돌 의례의 명분은 남아있으나 복식 문화는 공백기를 맞는다. 1950년대 중반이후 60년대 전반기는 미국의 경제 원조와 섬유 공업 활성화로 의료의 공급이 원활하여 전기에 비해 의례적 의미를 지닌 첫돌 복식의 착용이 가능해 졌다. 전통 한복을 기본으로 한 위에 서양식 복식 품목들이 섞여서 나타나고 있다 60년대 후반에서 1970년대의 두드러진 양상은 기성복 산업 의 발달로 전문적 인 기성복 시장이 형성되었고 이는 기성복화 된 첫돌 복식의 일습 개념을 등장시키게 하였다. 또한 한복이 예복화 되는 경 향이 두드러지게 나타났던 시기로 70년대 후반의 칼라 필름의 보급은 금박과 자수와 같은 다양한 재료와 재단 방법을 사용한 장식화 된 첫돌 복식의 사용을 가속화 시 켰다. 특히 70년대 중반에 소수의 일반에게 입혀졌던 궁중복식의 하나인 당의가 소매없는 당의로 바뀌어 여아의 돌옷으로 입혀지기 시작하였다. 1980년대 전반기는 칼라 TV의 보급, 비디오 촬영의 보편화로 한복이던 양복이던 일습화 된 첫돌 복식이 대중적으로 정착하게 되었다. 후반기에는 국내의 국제적인 행사의 유치와 전통 복식 소개를 위한 전시들을 계기로 왕실 복식에 대한 관심이 고조되었다. 이로 인해 여아에게 소매없는 당의를 입히고 남아에게 용포를 입히는 유행이 가속화되었다. 또한 서양식 예복을 입히는 유행이 시작되었다. 90년대에 들어와 아기 전문사진점의 등장은 1 회적인 첫돌 의례에 한복과 서양식 예복, 일상복 등을 다양하게 착용시키는 계기를 가져오게 하였다. 이상과 같은 다양한 변화 양상에도 불구하고 첫돌을 기념하기 위해 특별한 옷을 마련하고자 했으며, 그 복식의 구성 이 전통적인 일습 개념을 꾸준히 지향해 온 경향을 보여주고 있다. 반면 최근 과열된 아동 산업은 보다 다양한 복식을 입혀서 촬영한 사진으로 특별하게 꾸민 상업적인 기념물들을 남겨주게 하고 있다. 비록 특별한 옷을 준비하여 아동에게 입히는 행위는 유사한 표현 양태이나 지나치게 많은 옷을 갈아 입히는 표현 방식은 지양되어야할 것이다