• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.38
• /
• pp.123-142
• /
• 1998

본 논문에서 패션 디자인(fashion design)을 평가하는데 있어서 새로운 방법론적 접근 방식을 제시해 보려하였다. 즉 패션 디자이너의 디자인에 대한 철학을 이해함으로서 패션에 대한 근복적인 면에 대해 보다 나은 이해를 갖도록 하는 접근 방식을 모색하려는 것이다. 본 논문의 분석대상은 디자이너 루디 건라이(Rudi Gernreich : 1922-1985)와 그의 작품들인데, 그의 작품들에 나타나는 급진적인 성향 뒤에 숨어 있는 그의 디자인 철학을 집중적으로 분석함으로써 작품과 철학의 상관관계를 조명하려는 것이 그 주된 목적이다. 기존의 그에 대한 평가는‘파격적 패션’,‘소설 스테이트먼트(Social Statement)’,또는‘시각적 창출’등의 표현으로 극히 피상적인 것이었다. 반면에 그가 어떠한 경로로 이러한 디자인을 구상하게 되었는지 또는 그가 현대의상에 얼마만큼의 영향을 미쳤는지에 대한 연구는 극히 소수에 불과하였다. 본 논문의 초점은 건라이의 패션 디자인을 그가 중요한 가치로 믿고 있었던‘개인적 자유에 대한 추구’의 반영으로써 재 평가해 보려는 것이다. 이것의 입증을 위해서 그의 디자인들을 역사적, 사회적 그리고 미학적인 관점에서 분석하였다. 먼저 그의 디자인 철학을 도출하기 위해 그의 개인적 배경에 대한 상세한 검토를 하였고, 그의 디자인과 관련된 자료와, 현존하는 작품들과 그에 따른 참고문헌들에 대한 분석 조사 작업을 하였다. 이 작업을 통해 필자는 건라이의 작품들을 세 개의 주된 주제들, 즉,‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’,‘유니섹스 모드(Unisexs Mode)’, 그리고‘옵 아트 패션(Op-art Fashion)’으로 구분하였다.‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’과‘유니섹스 모드(Unisex Mode)’는 60년대 중반에서 70ssu대 초반에 출현한 유스 컬츄어(Youth Culture)에 부합하는 그이 디자인의 반영으로써 성의 혁명, 여성 인권운동과 동성애자 인권 운동과 같은 사회이슈들과 그의 디자인이 갖는 상관관계를 보여주는 것이다.‘옵-아트 패션(Op-art fashion)’은 건라이 디자인의 미학적 요소에 초점을 맞추고 있다. 그의 작품에 나타나는 인체와 옵-아트 원리의 관계를 조명해 보고, 건라이가 옵-아트와의 연계하에 그의 디자인을 어느만큼 예술적으로 승화시켰는지를 보여주고 있다. 각 주체들은 건라이 작품들의 개별적인 분석을 통해 논하였다. 본 논문은 보다 넓은 관점에서의 건라이의 디자인에 대한 재 평가로 결론을 지었다. 이러한 재평가 작업을 통해 패션 디자인계에 미친 그의 공헌의 역사적 중요성을 강조하고 현대 패션에 그의 영향이 계속 미치고 있는 이유를 설명하려 하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.8
• /
• pp.1427-1438
• /
• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.663-675
• /
• 2004

The plastic arts is used when designers draw inspirations to create fashion design. The author referred to fashion magazines for designing ideas of Mondrian＇s geometrical abstract painting in practical applications used by designers in Paris, Italy, London and New York during the 10-year period(1991-2000). The collections of data were analyzed as following: ◇ Fashion Designing Idea 1. Matching Idea The art is reproduced in the design as how it is with no transformation. First, the painting＇s complete figure is reproduced on the entire or parts of clothing. Second, the painting＇s partial figure is reproduced on the entire or parts of clothing. 2. Contrasting Ideas The composition elements in Mondrian＇s geometrical abstract painting, for example, structures of shapes, vertical and horizontal lines and different colors are applied in the design. First, one particular shape in painting is transformed into different shape of square, circle or triangle and reproduced in designing. Second, one particular shape in painting is disassembled and then reshaped into different form in reproduction. Third, additional lines are put in to create different look from the original painting. Forth, existing lines are extended over the boundary to create different look from the original painting. Fifth, achromatic colors: black and white, and three basic colors: red, blue and yellow in the original painting are modified into different shades or color scheme is increased in broad range.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.121-127
• /
• 2017

In 2013, Baz Luhrmann's movie re-made Fitzgerald's novel, "The Great Gatsby". In Novel, readers keep trace of the plot with their imagination, but in Movie , movie director comes together to create visual and auditory elements of it. Daisy Buchanan is a fashion icon, wearing Prada, Chanel, and Tiffany's jewelry, which reproduce the costume of Jazz Age, and make viewers well understand that of Jazz Age. Symbols like "Ash Valley", "Green light", "East Egg", "West Egg" are presented more directly in movie. Roaring parties held in Gatsby's great mansion was made by computer graphic, and its enormous scale also reflects the mental chaos and the material affluence in those age. Additionally, actors excellent show highlights the theme of the novel. With the adaptation of novel, the film finally achieves more appealing art in front of the public. This thesis investigates these more logistically with the materials of internet.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.504-514
• /
• 2021

This study attempted to extract and structure the job skills required for 3D designers, which have been recently introduced to the fashion industry. The study aimed to materialize and objectify the 3D designer's job, using a focus group interview for the survey. The 3D designer has the TD task of making 3D virtual samples using the pattern files developed in Pattern CAD. Graphic design and fabric digitization are also major tasks for the 3D designer. CLO is mainly used for 3D virtual sample production, and PixPlant, Substance, Photoshop, Cinema 4D, Daz studio, and 3ds MAX are used for image and avatar editing. As per the job skills required for 3D design work, basic knowledge about patterns and sewing, skill in 3D virtual clothing technology, ability to use various software, and English skills were considered important, in that order. In particular, the need for knowledge about patterns and sewing became more important than the skill in 3D virtual clothing technology itself. To train 3D designers, it was found that not only 3D virtual clothing software, but also education on patterns and clothing construction, CAD developer's curriculum certification system, and 3D designer qualification management were required. In addition, 3D designers are recognized as an essential job in fashion vendors, and the demand for domestic brands is increasing. The biggest limitation of the 3D virtual clothing system is the perfection of the digital fabric. Also, technical improvement is needed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.6
• /
• pp.994-1014
• /
• 2018

The objective of this study was to evaluate the characteristics of the fashion narrative from the commercial and artistic viewpoints by identifying and evaluating the attributes of the fashion narrative and analyzing the fashion narrative focusing on various cases according to fashion media. Louis Vuitton, a brand of the Louis Vuitton $Mo{\ddot{e}}t$ Hennessy (LVMH) group that operates the entire fashion community platform, is recognized as an influential luxury company with enormous capital and capabilities. This study targeted Louis Vuitton to examine the fashion narrative. The common results of Louis Vuitton's fashion narrative according to the communication platform are as follows. First, it emphasizes well-designed craftsmanship and artistry to convey the value and meaning of the brand. Second, it expresses the lifestyle of the bourgeoisie using traveling for finding life purpose, nature, and freedom as common denominators. Louis Vuitton connects, shares, and engages with customers by crossing the communication platform and trying multi-sensory changes based on the fashion narrative of the 'artification' message encompassing craftsmanship, innovation, and travel. The fashion narrative of Louis Vuitton applies tools (e.g., design, direction, stage, and props) differently according to the nature of media. In other words, the fashion narrative in the form of transmedia storytelling is a marketing communication strategy that indicates the representation means and direction of a brand's goals by remediating the brand narrative in various ways through the communication platform.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.773-784
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study is to confirm the effectiveness of NCS-based education in the field of hair beauty applied in the educational field and to find ways to improve it. To this end, the importance of each NCS competency unit in the field of hair beauty evaluated by senior hair designers and the achievements of new designers evaluated by the IPA method were analyzed to explore the difference between importance-achievement and improvement plans through this. As a result of the study, NCS education in the field of hair beauty was found to be 6 items for improvement, 21 items for maintenance and strengthening, 14 items for long-term improvement, and 1 item for improvement consideration among the existing 41 competency units. In particular, the lack of creativity and the ability to collect and analyze the latest information, which should be improved urgently, appear, confirming the necessity of efforts to develop creative abilities as hair designers in the NCS education field.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
• /
• no.32
• /
• pp.427-463
• /
• 2016

This article deals with five main theories about the origin of Yeonwahdae(蓮花臺), a Korean court dance(jeongjae; 呈才) and its transmission process through the age from Chinese Dang(唐) and Song(宋) to Goryo(高麗) and Joseon(朝鮮) in Korea. As a result, it was found that there was a significant difference between Chinese Chaj-u(?枝舞) dance and Korean Yeonwahdae, and furthermore there was an enormous change as it came to Joseon period in the number of performer, costume and music. Therefore, it is seriously necessary to select, restore the main version of Yeonwahdae in each period, and to make an effort to create new version of Yeonwahdae that reflects the spirit and taste of our time. Besides, it is important to inherit the inner spirit of Yeonwahdae as well as its outer appearance. Shortly, the main purpose of Yeonwahdae performance at present should be to reflect the most important, urgent issues of our time thereby to pray the welfare and prosperity of our country.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.309-314
• /
• 2021

Disney animation can be said to be part of American culture and art. With the changes in American society and culture, we can see the changes in the personality and social status of female characters in Disney animation. Especially in the Disney animation works published after 2000, many works showing equality in the social abilities and status of women and men have been published. In this study, the characteristics of female characters of the 20th century and the 21st century is compared and analyzed the characters of Elsa and Anna, who expressed the female image in a metaphorical way of 'Frozen 2'. And studied the characteristics and meanings of clothing and colorful shapes. This paper reveals the design elements needed to construct a gender-equality image of female characters, and hopes that it will become a useful research material for the animation industry and academia in the future.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.405-414
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to discover the possibility to expand the aesthetic interpretation of dance works. For this purpose, this study analyzes Maguy Marin's (1981) because it shows Sigmund Freud's concept of uncanny and grotesque images well. The theoretical framework of this study was centered on previous academic studies, and Hoffman's Der Sandmann(1816) was presented as an example to help the conceptual understanding of uncanny and grotesque. The analysis of of Magi Marin was divided into stage space, dancer's movements, costumes, and voice. As a result of this study, it was discovered that is a work with an experimental spirit that deviated from the stereotypes of traditional stage aesthetics. And it was implemented as uncanny and grotesque images in the choreography structure. In addition, as the changes of the times have a great influence on the creation of dance works, it is thought that the discourse of various aesthetic interpretation methods in dance works can provide various directions for dance creation in the future. Therefore, this study will be helpful in raising the aesthetic value and status of dance art.