• Title/Summary/Keyword: 예복

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한복 교재 분석을 통한 성인 여자 저고리의 패턴제작에 대한 소고

  • 이영혜;강순제
    • Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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    • 2003.05a
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    • pp.33-33
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    • 2003
  • 우리 민족의 고유 의복인 한복은 민족의 의생활 정서를 그대로 담아낸 우리의 전통 복식으로서 오랜 역사성을 가지고 있으나, 현대에 이르러서는 일상복이라기보다 예복 및 행사용 의복으로 입혀지고 있다. 이처럼 한복이 우리 일상생활에서 착용 빈도가 줄기는 하였으나 과거 경험과 눈대중에 의했던 한복제작에도 보다 체계적이고 과학적인 방법제시가 필요하게 되었다. 따라서 이러한 상황을 반영하듯, 실제로 한복구성을 위해 출간된 교재들은 최근까지 수십 종에 이르고 있으며, 이론과 실습을 겸한 패턴 제시와 함께 자세한 바느질 방법까지 설명되어 있어, 우리 옷의 구성에 문외한이던 학생들에게도 좋은 안내서가 되고 있는 것은 사실이다.

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현대 웨딩드레스에 사용된 비즈 자수기법에 관한 연구

  • 윤혜숙;곽태기
    • Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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    • 2003.05a
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    • pp.32-32
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    • 2003
  • 웨딩드레스는 결혼이라는 행사를 거행하는데 여성들이 착용하는 예복중의 하나이다. 19C 빅토리아 여왕이 자신의 결혼의상을 백색 새틴을 소재로 하면서부터 중세이후 상복의 색상으로 정착되었던 백색이 여성의 순결을 상징하는 웨딩드레스의 색상으로 자리잡게 된다. 웨딩드레스는 다른 의상과 달리 색상이 백색 또는 아이보리색으로 제한되는 경우가 일반적이기 때문에 주로 디테일과 장식 등에 비즈 자수(Beading)기법을 사용하여 신부의 아름다움을 표현한다. 웨딩드레스는 신부의 순결함을 표현함과 동시에 결혼식에 참석하는 다른 여성들에 비해 신부를 돋보이도록 화려함을 표현해주는 것도 디자인에 있어서 중요한 항목이므로 이에 비즈자수 기법은 큰 효과를 발휘할 수 있는 방법이라고 본다.

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A study on pattern and 3D restoration of Chinese traditional women's robe, straight Ju(直裾深衣) (중국 전통 귀족 여성 예복인 직거심의(直裾深衣)의 패턴 및 3D 복원 연구)

  • Sun Yuan;Jihyeon Kim;Mi-hyang Na
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.107-122
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    • 2023
  • This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

Patterns of Tailored Suit and Formal Jackets for Children (아동 정장 및 예복의 패턴제작에 관한 연구)

  • Han Jin Yee
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.43 no.4 s.206
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    • pp.97-110
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    • 2005
  • The need for children's formal wear is growing as parents take their children into formal occasions more often than before. Yet there are some problems to be solved in order to generalize about children's formal wear such as high price and the development of patterns for better fit and design. Mothers of boys were surveyed to find out the needs, complaints, and required improvements of boy's formal wear. Pattern designers of children's formal wear brands were interviewed to determine the size specifications, pattern drafting methods and design features of each brand. Based on these results, several pattern drafting methods were selected. Jackets and pants for 9-year-olds were made by each pattern drafting method using the us standard size. They were compared through wearing test to improve the fit. As a result, pattern drafting methods for children's tailored suits and two formal jackets were suggested.

A Study on the Noble Lady's Costumes of 18 Centuries -excavated from Andong Gwon's(1664~1722) grave- (18세기 여성 염습의 의 일례에 관한 고찰 -안동권씨(1664~1722) 출토복식을 중심으로-)

  • 송미경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.6
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    • pp.115-126
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    • 2002
  • This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.

A Study on the Ceremonial Costum′s of the South (Unification) Silla Kingdom-Dynasty (남국 신라 국왕의 제례 의전 예복고)

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.5
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    • pp.5-24
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    • 2000
  • The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Silla Kingdom has been the name of chronolongical era, from king Bubhung 2nd years to Jinduck 4 years. 2. From Dang dynasty has been received to King of Silla, first class-third class of Dang's office and rank. 3. After unification of Silla Kingdom, Dang dynasty's envoy and missionary and many commercial men and artist come froze Dang to Silla, threfore, influenced their costume habbits and behabiers from royal families costumes and common peaples costume, without concern of that one's social position. 4. Ancient Silla Kingdom performed a religious service an emperor's ceremony, but after unification, performed King's level a religious service, therefor King's ceremonial costumes are Dang dynasty's king's level Myunryukwanbok.

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Study of Joesun Dynasty Danryoung Worn by Woman (조선시대 여성 단령에 관한 연구 -출토복식을 중심으로-)

  • 송미경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.8
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    • pp.151-160
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    • 2002
  • This study implicates that the Danryoung(Formal dress) has been worn by the lady in Joesun dynasty. So far 8 cases of Danryoung excavated has been supposed to be worn by woman. The differences between man and woman's Danryoung is at the 'Somae(sleeve)'and 'Mu(gusset)'. Through those excavated Danryoungs, 'Somae' in Woman's Danryoung was straight and 'Mu' attached in outer layer of dress with rectangular form. From the excavated dresses, Ot-go-reum(strings) coloured violet and wider than man's Danryoung. It was also found as detached. Woman's Danryoung was decorated with gold brocade and excavated with belt. Through the dress and accessories excavated, it was estimated in mid-16C to early 17C. With this respect, it was implicated that Danryoung has changed its style to Wonsam after late 17C.

A Study on the Historical Characters and Textile Conservation of Mrs. Lee, Dan-ha's Wonsam (외제 이단하 부인 대예복(원삼)에 대한 연구)

  • Bai, Sang Kyoung
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.5 no.2 s.6
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    • pp.15-24
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    • 1996
  • Th)s study was carried out of the historical characters and textile coservations for Mrs. Danha Lee's Wonsam. As the textile material was silk, dry cleaning method was suggested. The solvents for dry cleaning were n-hexane, n-decane, and benzene. During the second cleaning process, the dry soap(HI-TECH, 120:1, volume ratio) was added to the mixed solvents. The reaction's temparature was $20^{\circ}C$, and the reaction's time was 30 minuutes. It seemed to be a gift for hot from the Royal Family because of the attachment of pheonlx hungbae. This wonsam was decorated symmetrically by gold weaving yarn, the basic fabric was green silk satin with glorius letters and floral patterns. It was made on the 17th C and the oldest thing among them.

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Study on the Police Uniform in Japan's Early Meiji Period (일본 명치전기(明治前期) 경찰복 연구)

  • Nomura, Michiyo;Lee, Kyungmee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.4
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    • pp.31-44
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to examine introduction and establishment of the police uniform during Japan's early Meiji period, in order to get deeper understanding of the introduction of the modern uniform. The research method included a literature review of laws related to police uniform, which were collected and analyzed. The result shows that the uniform stipulated by Keisi-cho Uniform regulation in 1874 included characteristics of Western uniforms that show the rank of the officers using emblems, such as different cap badges and uniform stripes, while maintaining the same form. Later, the modern uniform system came into form with the addition of a national symbol, building system of formal wear, separating uniforms for different classes, and adding additional uniforms. This illustrates the process of introducing and establishing western-style uniform in the East and can serve as a reference for similar studies.

About the Costumes and Its Ornaments with Court's Courtesy and Manners - Based on the Official and Historical Book, "Jun, Ri Eui Kwae" - (정조(正祖)의 현륭원(顯隆園) 행차시(行次時)의 궁중의예복식고(宮中儀禮服飾考) - "정리의궤(整理儀軌)"를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Cho, Hyo-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.5
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    • pp.113-140
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    • 1981
  • "Jung Ri Eui Kwae" is the book, illustrated and recorded with court coutesy and manners during the King, Jung Jo's honoured coming to his own father's royal tomb "Hyun Ryung Won" of Sa Do Seh Ja(The Crown Prince to be mourned) with his own mother Hae Kyung Koong Mrs. Hong. According to this book, we can see the costumes and its ornaments of the civil and military officials and also of Yu Ryung(the maden court musician) and Dong Ki (a young Kisaeng girl) during serving at Bong Soo Dang bangquet celebrating his own mother's 60th birthday anniversary. It is interesting to review once more the royal ceremonies representing the portion of the costumes and its ornaments in the 18th century of the Yi Dynasty, Yung-Jung Jo era that is to be thought the reform period in almost every field of social system.

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