• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.17-22
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to obtain the basic element of patterns, which is the motif, from the existing art works and use it to create and simulate a variety of patterns to show the practical use of the computer. Natural dyed works of geometric shapes like squares and 1/4 of circles, each dyed with a different natural dyes, were produced and motifs were extracted. Then using the 4D box in Adobe Photoshop v.6.0, the developing pattern change and simulation effects when using different patterns and different repetition settings were examined. Observations were made as the motifs were replicated. Different patterns like a diagonal line, a square and a circle appeared. In order to find out the effects according to the changes, the motifs from work's square portions, circle centre, and the composition of eight motifs were extracted and used. The repeated patterns according to the extracted motifs simply showed that in the case of just repeating and arranging, square patterns appeared. By replicating and arranging, the motif and the allophone were matched and patterns with regular lines were formed, like a twill, pointed twill line. By setting the direction to Y and X in the repetition methodes, a typical half-drop arrangement or a brick pattern arrangement were formed according to 1/4, 2/4, 3/4, 1/3, or 2/3 in changes. Also the steepness of the slope changes quickly or in turn slowly as the rhombus shape appears. However in the case of a composed motif, an ogee pattern appeared. Lastly, by 3-D mapping patterns like a slant line, pointed twill patterns, diamond patterns, and the repeat patterns of a motif with a circle and a line combined, and a circle motif, an optical illusion could be observed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.38 no.6
• /
• pp.929-941
• /
• 2014

Dyeability of Indian natural dyestuffs to fabrics was investigated. Indian dyestuffs are more inexpensive than domestic dyestuffs purchased at oriental medicine stores. We studied the dyeability of madder, marigold, and pomegranate imported from India on cotton, silk, and wool fabrics. Dyebaths of a combination ratio of 80:20, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60 and 20:80 of madder and marigold, fabrics with orange colors were dyed. To evaluate the dyeability of dyed fabrics, K/S values, Munsell color values and CIE L, a, b, ${\Delta}E$ were measured. The dyeability of fabrics dyed in dyebaths of pH 4 and pH 7 were higher than pH 10. The dyeability in pH 4 was better than pH 7. Silk fabrics dyed with madder and marigold showed good dyeability and wool fabrics showed good affinity in madder dyebath and fair affinity in marigold dyebath. Cotton fabrics showed fair affinity in a marigold dyebath of pH 4 and pH 7. Cotton fabrics dyed with a 60:40 ratio of madder and marigold showed 4.76YR of Munsell color value. Silk Fabrics dyed with a 40:60 ratio showed 4.76YR and wool fabrics dyed with 20:80 ratio showed 5.57RY. The ratios produced the closest colors to 5.0YR of orange. This result indicated that marigold had a more powerful effect on cotton fabrics while madder was stronger on wool fabrics. Fading grades of washing colorfastness of wool and silk fabrics dyed in mixed dyebaths were higher than 3.5-4.0 and higher than homogeneous dyebaths. Staining grades of washing colorfastness of all dyed fabrics were between grades 3.5-5.0. Colorfastness to dry-cleaning was high as grades 4.0-5.0 in all of dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to light of dyed fabrics showed a fair grade of 3.5-5.0; in addition, wool fabrics showed lower grades than silk and cotton fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.648-659
• /
• 2012

This research categorizes fundamental data needed to develop eco-friendly fabrics treated with bamboo leaf & pine leaf extracts. The effect of mordant on those fabrics was analyzed through the measurement of mechanical properties and the estimation of primary hand values for cotton and silk fabrics dyed with bamboo leaf and pine leaf extracts that were later treated with various mordants. When cotton was dyed with bamboo leaves and pine leaves extracts, EM, WT, 2HB, 2HG, 2HG5, LC, T, and W increased however, RT, SMD, and RC decreased compared to raw cotton fabric. The B, G, and MIU increased after mordant treatment to the dyed cotton and resulted in a stiffer and rougher cotton's hand. EM, WT, RT, MIU, WC, T, and W increased (in terms of silk); however, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, MMD, SMD, and LC decreased compared to raw silk fabric. Similar to the dyed cotton, mordant treatment increased the MIU and LC of dyed silk subsequently, the hand became stiffer and rougher. A greater tannin adsorption results in an increased mechanical property and the primary hand value. For both fabrics, mordant treatment made its smoothness drop. However, the scale of drop for cotton was significant, while the scale of the drop for silk was minor. In terms of type of mordant, femordant and natural-mordant treatment influenced the tensile, shear, surface properties of fabrics, and primary hand values more than Cu-mordant and synthetic-mordant in addition, this increased the stiffness, hardness, and roughness of fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.617-628
• /
• 2001

Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.4 no.3
• /
• pp.9-15
• /
• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.953-960
• /
• 2009

The natural dyeing of fabrics with myrobalan extract was investigated. After dyeing of silk, cotton and rayon with myrobalan extract, the dyeability of myrobalan extract was evaluated with the conditions of concentration, temperature, time, repeat-numbers, pH, mordants variables, the changes of dyeability and surface colors by methods of mordanting and color fastness. The wavelength of maximum absorption of the colored solution from myrobalan extract appeared at 272 nm. Therefore, the substance of myrobalan extract was verified as tannin dyes. The optimum dyeing of fabrics was carried out at 30%(o.w.f) dye concentration. Silk fabrics dyed with myrobalan extract showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ when it was dyed for seventy minutes, while cotton and rayon fabrics showed the highest K/S value at the temperature of $90^{\circ}C$ when they were dyed for seventy minutes and thirty minutes, respectively. Dyeing operation was carried out in acidic dyebath of pH 3. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher in pre-mordant stage than in post-mordant, while the K/S values of cotton and rayon fabrics were higher in post-mordant stage. The surface colors of dyed fabrics were different according to used mordants: Al and Cu mordanted fabrics were dyed in yellowish colors, while Fe mordanted fabric was dyed in khaki-black color. Light-fastness of the color fastness was improved in Fe-mordant. Washing-fastness was relatively good, and dry cleaning-fastness of dyed fabrics was excellent.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.3 s.56
• /
• pp.380-390
• /
• 2005

The effect of high purity chitosan was studied on its application to the natural dyeing using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were introduced on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, we found that, in the case of cotton, chitosan untreated fabrics were not dyed enough, and the dyeing effect was not developed even though the mordanting was introduced. However, the chitosan treated fabrics developed excellent dyeing result even in the non-mordanting case. Through the results of cotton fabric dyeing, it was presumed that the dyeing affinity of the chitosan toward the Rhusjara ica, which prefer specific dyestuff (mainly black color), is selectively high. In the case of nylon, the dyeing effect is not developed easily under all conditions regardless of the chitosan treatment or the mordant treatment. It was inferred that a certain portion of the Rhusjara ica dyestuff made direct bonding with the functional elements in the nylon molecules without the help of the mordant. Through the results of nylon fabrics, it was presumed that some functional elements of the nylon molecules had selective affinity toward the specific colorant (mainly yellow color) of the Rhusjara ica.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.224-232
• /
• 2010

The natural dyeing of fabrics with persimmon juice(astringent persimmon, sweet persimmon, astringent and sweet persimmon mix) was investigated. After dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with persimmon juice, we evaluated the dyeability of persimmon juice, the observation of fabric surface with high magnification video microscope, physical properties and color fastness with the conditions of repeating times of dyeing and variables of mordants. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The fabrics dyed with astringent persimmon have shown the highest color difference, while the fabrics dyed with sweet persimmon and the fabrics dyed with astringent and sweet persimmon mix have shown similar color differences. With the increase of repeating times of dyeing, the brightness of fabric decreased. However, $a^*$ value increased gradually, so that it became dark brown color. The $a^*$ and $b^*$ values of dyed fabrics with Fe-mordant have dropped significantly, so that they have shown achromatic colors. But the fabrics treated with other mordants have shown yellowish brown colors. On the surface of the fabrics, threads were bonded together by the viscosity of persimmon juice. Regardless of the types of persimmon juice, stiffness was increased after dying, while crease resistance was decreased. The water repellency of silk fabrics were improved than cotton fabrics after dyeing with sweet persimmon juice, but in case of cotton, it hasn't changed. Washing fastness was improved with the EM(Effective Microorganism)-fermented liquid treatment, and rubbing fastness of two fabrics was better in dry condition than in wet condition.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
• /
• v.23 no.3
• /
• pp.317-328
• /
• 2012

In this study, printing was introduced to the common dip-dyeing method of persimmon juice dyeing so as to develop two different colored persimmon juice dyed fabrics with printings of 'jorangmal' patterns (a national monument) instead of producing a plain textile. Following are the results of a comparative study between the persimmon dyed fabric and undyed fabric, both with printings, in terms of its properties, and hand values. Cotton and rayon were chosen as samples and were compared separately. Firstly, the samples showed differences in terms of clarity and visual sensation depending on the presence of persimmon dye, even if the same pattern and color was used. Secondly, the air permeability of two samples improved after persimmon dyeing even though their thickness increased, and their moisture regain increased as well in all humidity conditions. Thirdly, protectiveness against UV increased in dyed samples, and sweat, sunlight, and compound colorfastness improved in printed dye-fabrics compared to plain dyed ones. Therefore, printing proved to be effective in preventing discoloration. Fourthly, tensile linearity and resilience, bending rigidity, compressive linearity and resilience, and shearing stiffness increased more in the dyed samples compared to undyed ones. However, shearing recovery decreased in both dyed fabrics. Fifthly, the result of its hand value showed that Koshi value increased in all samples than undyed ones, whereas Fukurami, Numeri, and Softosa values decreased. Incorporating printing in persimmon dyeing process could expect creative outcomes not only in today's diverse fashion but in areas of arts or crafts as well.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.412-423
• /
• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.