• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1992.08a
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• pp.83-83
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• 1992

풍파가 수심이 불규칙하고 조류 및 해류 등의 흐름이 존재하는 연안역을 전파해 갈 때 파고 및 파향이 굴절ㆍ회절 및 천수, 에너지 감쇠 효과 등에 의해 크게 변형된다. 이러한 현상은 연안역의 파랑변형 계산 및 퇴적물이동현상 분석에 매우 중요하다. 불규칙파의 스펙트럼 형태와 에너지의 방향 분산 정도에 따라 단순 규칙파 모델과의 계산치가 50-100%에 이르기도 한다.(중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1996.10a
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• pp.115-118
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• 1996

연안역에 있어서 파랑변형의 예측은 구조물의 설계 및 모래이동의 추정 등에 필수적인 사항이다. 실제의 해저는 복합단면이 많으므로 이에 적용이 가능한 모델이 요구되어진다. Bar형 지형에서의 불규칙파의 쇄파에 관해서는 Rayleigh분포를 가정한 고산(1991) 등, Bore모델에 의한 BattjesㆍJanssen(1978), 그리고 안정파개념을 도입한 DallyㆍDean(1986) 등을 들 수 있다. 그러나 어떠한 모델도 물리적 Process의 불명확성 또는 계산의 번잡성 등 난점이 있어, 완성되었다고 할 수 없다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.350-360
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• 2016

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.59-65
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• 2003

The changes of beach profile with a natural longshore bar and beach profile with a fixed artificial bar are studied, respectively, using a numerical model. The quasi three dimensional wave-current-sediment transport model is applied with an addition of boundary condition for sediment transport on the artificial structure under water. The study shows that the natural bar adapts itself to the change of coastal physical environment by adjusting its location but the fixed artificial bar causes the formation of a second natural bar seaward of the fixed bar and scouring at the rear of the fixed bar. This study can be applied to work on the change of beach profile with submerged breakwaters.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.157-164
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• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.881-891
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• 2020

In recent years, large-scale development of coastal areas has caused the loss of many lives and extensive property damage in coastal areas, due to wave overtopping caused by high-wave invasion and strong typhoons. However, coastal inundation studies considering the characteristics of domestic coastal areas are insufficient. This study is a methodology study that aimed to reproduce inundation of surge and wave complex elements by applying the ADCSWAN (ADCIRC+SWAN) and FLOW-3D models. In this study, the boundary data (sea level, wave) of the FLOW-3D model was extracted using the ADCSWAN (ADCIRC+SWAN) model and applied as the input value of the FLOW-3D model and a reproduction was created of the Flooding due to surge and overtopping in Busan Marine City when the typhoon Chaba passed. In addition, the existing overtopping empirical equation and the overtopping calculated by the FLOW-3D model were compared, and for coastal inundation, a qualitative verification was performed using the Inundation Trace Map of Land and Geospatial Informatrix Corporation, and the effectiveness of this study was reviewed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.869-875
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the long-term wave characteristics and tendencies of coastal waters near Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling. Wave hind-casting modelling was performed with a wind data set from ECMWF (2001~2014), which provides data from 1979 to the present. The results of numerical modelling were verified with observed data collected using wave buoys installed by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA) in offshore waters. The results agreed well with observations from buoy stations, especially during event periods such as typhoons. The quantitative RMSE value was 0.5 m, which was significant. Consequently, the results of a wave tendency analysis for 14 years (2001~2014) showed an increased appearance ratio for waves of more than 2 m in height at all regional domains. The mean appearance ratio was 0.082 % per year, which implies that coastal waves have been increasing continuously. This coastal wave tendency analysis data can be used to evaluate coastal vulnerability due to recent climate change and the design of coastal erosion prevention structures.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.262-273
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• 2003

We have analyzed the characteristics of the monthly mean sea surface winds and wind waves near the Korean marginal seas in the 2002 year on the basis of prediction results of the sea surface winds from MM5/KMA model, which is being used for the operation system at the Korea Meteorological Administration and the third generation wave model, WAVEWATCH-III. which takes the sea surface winds derived from MM5/KMA model as the initial data. Statistical comparisons have been applied with both the marine meteorological observation buoy and the TOPEX/POSEIDON satellite wave heights data to verify the model results. The correlation coefficients between the models and observation data reach up to about 60-80％, supporting that these models satisfactorily simulate the sea surface winds and wave heights even at the coastal regions except for Chilbal-Do located very close to the land. Based on these verification results, the distributions of monthly mean sea surface winds, significant wave heights, wave lengths and wave periods around the Korean marginal seas during 2002 year have been represented.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2004.04a
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• pp.179-186
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the developemnt could be easily neglected.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.567-579
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• 1993

The response of sea levels to a typhoon in the north Japanese coast in the Japan Sea is investigated by using hourly ses level data($1966{\sim}1986$) and a numerical shallow water model with high resolution($5'{\times}5'$). The observed sea level analysis shows (1) progressive waves exist between Simonoseki(SS) and Maizuru(MZ) with the mean phase speed of about 4 m/s during the passage of the typhoon, (2) the phase speed between Sasebo(SB) and HK(Hakata) is slower(about 1.7 m/s), and (3) the maximum sea level at HK is achieved about 0.5 day later than that of SS. In many aspects, the numerical model results correspond well to the above observed features. In the model the progressive waves are identified as a topographic wave with the phase speed of about 4 m/s. Before the typhoon passes through the Korea Strait/ the Tsushima Strait, the wave propagations along the Japanese coast are significantly influenced by the southwestward coastal jet induced by the wind stress parallel to the coast. The waves start to propagate northeastward along the coast when the coastal jet is weakened.