• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.10b
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• pp.301-302
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• 2003

원사제조 이후의 공정인 원사가공 기술은 다양한 기술개발에 의해 발전되어 왔다. 원사가공 기술은 합성섬유의 강도, 내구성 등의 기능성을 유지하면서 광택, 촉감 둥의 단점을 보완하기 위해 개발이 진행중이고, 그 중 가연공정은 합성섬유의 벌키성 및 신축성의 향상과 직물의 Handle을 개선하기 위한 것으로 Pin type DTY, Belt type DTY, Disk type DTY 등의 다양한 형태로 가공되고 있다(1). (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.96-96
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• 2011

본 연구에서는 스포츠 캐주얼 웨어(스노우보드복, 골프복, 등산복 등)로 사용되는 신축성 소재의 개발로 Stretch성을 부여하기 위하여 Nylon 66 POY 소재의 가연가공 기술을 통하여 Mechanical Stretch 성능이 발현되는 소재를 개발하고자 한다. 섬유소재에 일반적으로 신축성을 부여하기 위해서는 Spandex(Polyurethane, PU)를 방적공정에서 복합 제조하는 Core Yarn과 장섬유에 Spandex를 피복하는 Covering Yarn(직물용) 형태가 있는데, Spandex로 인한 신축성은 200~800% 발현되나 PU를 사용함에 따라서 공정추가에 대한 원가상승, 균제도 불량, 몰림현상 및 PU 수축에 의한 중량감이 있으며, 또한 PU에 의한 견뢰도불량, 피복사의 벗겨짐성 등 외관상 트러블 발생빈도가 높다. 이에 따라 Spandex를 사용하지 않고 단일소재로서 사가공기술에 의해 Stretch성이 부여되는 소재를 개발하고 이의 기술을 상용화 하고자 한다. Nylon 66 POY 소재를 Disc 가연기, Pin 가연기 등의 설비를 이용하여 70d급 원사의 가연가공 공정을 진행하였다. 그리고 개발된 원사의 섬도(d), 강도(g/d), 신도(%), 크림프율(%)의 물성 시험을 통하여 Nylon66의 공정상 변화인자에 따른 기본 물성 및 Stretch 발현성을 분석하여 최적의 설비 및 공정조건을 확립하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.94-94
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• 2011

스포츠웨어 바람막이용도에 사용되는 대부분의 소재는 폴리아미드계 소재이며, 국내에서는 대부분 나일론6 소재를 사용하고 있다. 최근 소비자들의 요구는 점점 경량화되고 있고 야외활동 증가와 더불어 착용감이 우수한 소재를 요구하고 있다. 이러한 시즘에 국내에서 많이 사용되는 나일론6 소재를 이용하여 직물단계에서 경량감과 스트레치성이 발현될수 있는 나일론6 세섬 권축사 개발에 대한 연구를 진행하고자 함이다. 본 연구에서는 직물단계에서 경량감과 스트레치성이 발현될수 있는 나일론6 세섬 권축사 개발을 위해 공중합 나일론6 폴리머와 일반 나일론6 폴리머를 복합방사설비를 이용하여 SIDE BY SIDE POY 26d/6f 원사를 제조하였다. 원사물성은 섬도 25.8d, 절단신도 71%, 절단강도 4.3g/d의 물성을 가졌으며, Nip Belt 가연설비로 연신비, 가연 1st 히터온도, 벨트각도 조건에 따라서 제조된 나일론6 가연사 DTY 20d/6f의 물성을 평가하였고, 비교사로서 T사에서 생산되고 있는 나일론6 가연사 DTY 20d/6f와 비교평가하였다. 비수탄성율은 가연 연신비가 높고, 1st 히터온도가 높은 조건에서 높게 나타남을 알 수 있었으며, 염색 가공 공정에서의 전처리단계에서 $100^{\circ}C$정도의 열을 받았을 때의 수축에 따른 권축효과 발현에 따른 신축성 변화에 대한 상대평가를 사단계에서 유추할 수 있다. 권축효과가 높게 나타난다 하더라도, 사의 수축힘이 적으면 권축효과 발현특성에 큰 차이가 없으므로 열응력을 측정을 한 결과, 가연 연신비가 높고 가연 1st 히터온도가 높은 조건에서 열응력이 높게 나타남을 알 수 있었으며, 비교사에 비해 약간 높은 열응력 값을 보였다. 절단강도는 가연조건에 따라서 큰 변화가 없었고, 절단신도는 연신비가 증가함에 따라 점차 감소하였으며 비교사와도 큰 차이를 보이지 않았음. 따라서, POY 26d/6f 원사에 적합하고, 권축효과가 우수한 가연조건을 도출하였고, 가연현장 작업시 문제가 없는 가연 최적조건을 도출하였다. 향후, 가연조건에 따른 제조된 가연사를 이용하여 제직 및 염색가공 공정을 거친후, 직물신축성 평가를 실시할 계획이다.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.141-150
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to analyze the effect of the shape and attached position of E-textile-based stretchable sensors on motion-sensing performance and to investigate the requirements for the optimal structure of clothes for sensing limb motions. An experimental garment was prepared with different sensor shapes, and attachment positions. A child subject, wearing the experimental garment, performed arm and leg bending and extension motions at $60^{\circ}$, $90^{\circ}$ and $120^{\circ}$ motion angles, at a rate of 60 deg/sec. The changes in voltage triggered by the stretching and contracting of the fabric-sensor were measured, and an acceleration sensor was utilized to verify that the experimental motions were correctly performed. Dummy arms and legs of a child were manufactured to perform an identical test, in order to compare the dummy results with the actual human body experiment results. The analysis showed that the reproducibility and reliability of the rectangular sensor, showing uniform and stable were higher than those of the boat-shaped sensor, in both the dummy and the human body experiments. The attachment position of the sensor was more reproducible and reliable when placed on 4 cm below the elbow and knee joints in the dummy test, when placed in the joints of the elbow and knee, in children experiment. The appropriate shapes and attached positions of the sensor for sensing the motions were analyzed, and the results proved that motion-sensing of the human body is possible by utilizing flexible fabric-sensors integrated into clothes.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2008.10a
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• pp.109-110
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• 2008

본 연구에서는 신축성이 우수한 친수형 무공 PET필름을 사용해서, 소취성, 보온성 및 투습방수성이 우수한 신발용 소재를 개발하였다. 이상의 목적을 달성하기 위해서 최적 소재의 선정, PET필름의 특성평가, 최적 라미네이팅 공정조건 확립, 첨가제 선정 및 가공조건 확립 등에 대해서 실험고찰을 하였으며, 얻어진 주요 결과는 다음과 같다. (1) 신발의 갑피용 및 안창용 최적소재로서 경편직물을 선정하였으며, PET필름의 최적 요구특성은 내수성 9460mmH2O, 투습성 10,000g/m2/24hrs, 인장강도42kgf/cm2, 신도249% 였다. (2) Hot-melt 라미네이팅 공정에서의 투습방수성을 좌우하는 Dot roll No, Coating gap의 최적조건은 CP75(Engraved dot roll no), -0.2mm(Coating Unit gap) 였다. (3) EVA base polymer 및 기타 조제의 최적 배합비를 확립하고 이를 바탕으로 compound를 제조하여 Press로 molding하여 안창용 Sponge를 얻었다. (4) 안창 sponge 위에 점착된 knit 소재의 소취효과는 우수하였으며, 갑피용 투습방수 경편직물의 보온성도$15{\sim}20%$로 우수하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.115-118
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• 2003

편성물은 루프형태로 얽혀있는 조직의 구조적 특성상 제편 과정에서 필요한 형태로의 성형이 용이해서 제품의 다양화를 기대할 수 있고 우수한 신축성과 드레이프성, 공기함유율, 구김안정성 둥이 우수하여 인체의 여러 가지 활동에 따른 구속감이 적어서 의류용 뿐만 아니라 신발 소재, 산업용 보강제등 그 활용도가 아주 높은 소재이다. 특히 경편성물은 직물과 편성물의 중간체적인 성향을 나타내고 있어서 제품생산시간을 단축할 수 있고 질적인 면에서도 직물과 아주 유사하여 후가공 처리에 유용한 소재이다[1]. (중략)

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.327-336
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are to evaluate mechanical properties and sensibility of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener, and to contribute to the research and development of the bedclothes made of the tencel jacquard fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective fabric hand evaluation were measured by using KES-FB system. Subjective sensibilities such as sensory, touch, and purchasing preference were estimated by using blind field test. The tensile properties such as EM, WT, and RT of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener showed increase. Bending properties and shear properties were decreased, but compression properties were increased compared to untreated fabric. With ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener treatment, thickness and weight were increased. Therefore, tencel jacquard fabrics became more stretchable, softer, and bulkier than untreated fabrics. Consequently, THV of tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were increased. When fabrics were treated sequentially with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener, fabrics were estimated softer, more flexible, and bulkier than untreated fabrics. Also, tencel jacquard fabrics treated with ginkgo biloba extract and silicon softener were estimated to have good touch and preference.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.652-663
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to the body types to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0cm and W - lcm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+0cm and H-2cm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as fDllows. W+Ocm, H+Ocm for thin body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.3 ∼ 5.0% of waist, 4.8 ∼7.2% of hip for thin body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For thin body type, W+0cm, W - lcm for waist and H+0cm, H-2cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for thin body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.433-446
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• 2001

Recently, according to changes in fashion trends, the importance of stretch fabric stands out. A lot of studies on non-stretch woven fabrics have been made, but few studies on stretch fabrics has been made yet. Especially, the study on ease for the patterns, according to body types, of stretch has not been made at all. The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to standard body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0㎝ and W-1㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2㎝ and H+0㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+0㎝, H+2㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.0∼4.6% of waist, 2.1∼4.3% of hip for standard body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For standard body type, W+0㎝, W-1㎝ for waist and H+2㎝, H+0㎝ for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.265-275
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the ease of stretchable jackets which has been common since the mid-1990s and the whole actual conditions in making the lining fabrics. This can be done by investigating the actual conditions of domestic clothes businesses about the consumers. The outcomes of this study are as follows; The result of the survey in the differences of the ease between regular and stretchable fabrics shows that the pattern of designing stretchable fabrics needs diminishing the width of shoulder is 0.42cm, the whole girth chest is 1.83cm, the whole girth of waist is 0.88cm. It also shows that designing the ease of the whole girth of chest is 1.91cm to 2.54cm in the regular lining fabrics and is from 0 to 1.27cm in the stretchable fabrics more than the right side of fabrics. The ease of the whole girth of waist is similar to the round chest, in which the bottom sweep for garment is almost equal to the right side of fabrics in both regular lining fabrics and stretchable fabrics. The result of investigating the actual conditions of making the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics shows that 80% of a woman's wear brand produces and gives the pattern of the lining fabrics only for the special designing to the cooperative clothes manufactures. The business which always provides the patterns for the lining fabrics in the main office is only limited to 20%. Also, it shows that using the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics and regular lining fabrics together is 46.7%, the stretchable lining fabrics is 40% and the regular lining fabrics is 13.3% only.