• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.463-474
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• 2012

The purpose of this research was to find the suitable dyeing method for dyeing cotton fabric into indigo blue color using the raw indigo powder dyes sold in the Korean market. The research focused primarily on the comparison of the non-reduced dyeing method and the reduced dyeing method. The dyeing effects using different dyeing temperatures ($2{\sim}80^{\circ}C$) and different concentrations of reducing agent and alkali were also investigated. It was found that the reduced dyeing method must be used for dyeing cotton into indigo blue color using the commercial raw indigo powder dyes. The best result was obtained by $20^{\circ}C$ dyeing with the $40^{\circ}C$ dyeing giving a comparable result. The intensity of the blue color could be enhanced by increasing the alkali concentration. The non-reduced dyeing could not dye cotton fabric into indigo blue color at any given dyeing temperatures ($2{\sim}80^{\circ}C$). The reduce-dyed cotton fabrics showed a gradual color change upon repeated washing and extended sunlight exposure, the most color change occurring after the first two washing cycles and the first 5 hours of sunlight exposure. The standard tests of colorfastness showed that the reduce-dyed cotton fabrics had good to excellent colorfastness whereas the colorfastness of the non-reduce-dyed cotton fabrics were mostly poor.

• 접착 및 계면
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.131-136
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 LCD 편광필름 제조용으로 시판되고 있는 poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) 필름을 반응성 이색성 염료로 염착시키고 500%로 일축 연신시킨 후 그 편광효율 및 투과도를 측정하였다. 이때 3,5-dichloro-2,4,6-triazine 잔기를 갖는 반응성 이색성 염료를 합성한 후 강염기성 수용액이 아닌 중성 유기 용매를 사용하여 염착을 수행하였다. 먼저, 시판되고 있는 편광필름용 PVA 필름의 검화도를 조사하였다. 이를 위해 시약급 PVA 분말시료의 검화도를 NMR 분광분석법을 사용하여 검정한 후, 필름을 제막하여 FT-IR 분광분석법으로 C-H기와 C=O기의 신축진동에 대한 흡광도 비를 측정하여 NMR 분광분석법으로 결정된 검화도와 상관시켜 봄으로써 상용화된 PVA 필름의 검화도를 in situ로 가늠할 수 있었다. 다음으로, NMR 분광분석법으로 검화도가 약 100%로 결정된 시판 PVA 필름을 두 가지 반응성 이색성 염료를 사용하여 염착하였다. 결과로서, 반응성 콩고레드를 염착시켜 제조한 PVA 편광필름과 반응성 다이렉트블랙 22를 염착시켜 제조한 PVA 편광필름의 광학특성을 비교할 때, 전자의 경우 편광효율이 우수하며, 후자의 경우 투과도가 우수함을 알 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권4호
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• pp.540-556
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• 2014

This research investigated the effective conditions to dye cotton with commercial indigo leaf powder. We tested dyeing conditions of: pH of dyebath (6.5, 9-12), heating ($20^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$, $90^{\circ}C$), ageing (0, 0.5, 1, 4, 24 hours), reduction time (0, 30, 60 min), and dyeing temperature ($2^{\circ}C$, $10^{\circ}C$, $20^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$), dyeing was conducted for 20 minutes. The highest K/S value was obtained when cotton was dyed using pH 11 dyebath, heated at $50^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes, aged for 24 hours at room temperature ($20^{\circ}C$), reduction carried out for 30 minutes, and dyed at $50^{\circ}C$. It is proposed that the K/S value is primarily influenced by the dyebath pH and dyeing temperature, followed by the presence or absence of ageing time and reduction time. The color of cotton with high K/S values was B type by Munsell hue value, which was similar to the color obtained in previous studies by freshly made indigo leaf powder and indigo leaf juice. The results indicate that the dyeing conditions established in this research are suitable to maximize the dyeability of commercial indigo leaf powder and that the indigo leaf powder can be used as a substitute for fresh indigo leaf juice.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권1호
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• pp.17-26
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• 2013

Market available fermented indigo powders of Indian origin (FI1, FI2), Chinese origin (FC1, FC2), and raw indigo powders of Indian origin (R1, R2) were examined using TLC and HPLC analyses to investigate their pigment contents. TLC analysis gave $R_f$ values of 0.81 and 0.72 for blue and red pigments, respectively. All the powder products and the synthetic and natural indigo standards eluted at 6.9 min and 8.3 min in the HPLC chromatograms, and the peaks showed the ${\lambda}_{max}$ at 610nm and 542nm, representing indigotin and indirubin, respectively. The pigment content calculated based on the area of indigotin and indirubin peaks in the HPLC chromatograms showed that the indigotin content was higher in FC1 and FC2, while FI1 and FI2 had a higher indirubin content. The relative percentage of indirubin was the highest in R2, but the HPLC peak intensity was quite low. Despite the higher indigotin content in FC1 and FC2, cotton dyed with FI1 and FI2 (versus cotton dyed with FC1 and FC2) showed a higher blue (B) hue, the highest K/S values, and the highest antimicrobial effect.